Did I get a good deal: 75' Omega 455 Olds

[georgewa]

Greetings Jetboat people,
Just picked up a 75' Omega with a 455 Olds with a Jacuzzi WJ pump. It has been gone through about 2 years back. The Hull was reglassed, new transom, blueprinted pump, and a fresh build on the motor (2 yrs ago). It has Hardin wet exhuast (log style). Some sort of cam, with a torker intake and a edelbrock marine carb. Was painted white (some chips here and there), and has good seats and a decent bimini.
The only downside with this boat, is the guy left it under the weather without a cover for some time (did put the bimini up though). Living in La Jolla near to ocean, all of the aluminum on the motor is weathered (valve covers, exhaust, fuel tanks, etc). It's turn key, starts everytime, electric choke hooked up and all.
Our family had a jetboat for years when I was a growing up(a 75' or so ranger 455 w/berk), so I'm quite familiar with jets. I'm not so used to the extremely low sides of the boat (feels like you could easily get thrown out), and the back seat is somewhat small (sit on the floor basically). The oil filter is almost rusted open, will need to change the oil asap. Even has a custom 12 qt oil pan with baffles.
Reading on here I hear you all speaking of the potential damage to the pump (exspecially a blueprinted one) if ran dry. The funny thing is, we never paid this mind with the old jet (as with friends jets too), and didn't have problems. Think the pump was gone through once or twice in 15 some odd years.
I'll get some pictures up so you all can see it. The guy I got it from is definitely well off and needed to get rid of it so you dropped the price drastically to $2500 (i had cash). The motor and pump were built by some jetboat guy in AZ somewhere. I assume the hull might have been too. It seems like it was built right, hope it has stainless valves and such.
Also, what's the best way to polish up the aluminum stuff on the motor? And anyone running edelbrock marine carbs (carter)?
Thanks for reading....

[TahitiTiger]

$2500 sounds good like a heck of deal for a runner. My Tahiti if add up all my bills, including the cost of the boat is about $3000. :D And the gel coat on it is dull, and severely faded. :(
also for short runs, I put a sprinkler under the pump (10 seconds or less). For long testing I undo the coupler, and hook up the garden hose to the block connection. Nice thing about this is I can feel the u-joints, I am always paranoid about the U-joints.

[georgewa]

Thanks for the reply. I'll get some pics up so you all can check it out.
BTW, here's the ad I got it from. I was the first to look at the boat, he just got back in town and emailed me. Went right over to check it out. I think I got a steal...
[/URL]
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/boa/287616099.html ([url]http://sandiego.craigslist.org/boa/287616099.html)

[Moneypitt]

Time will tell. How did it run on the water. Did he open it up, flat out for you? Or did you hear it run on the trailer? There are currently a couple of Olds motors in the spam section........NEVER BUY A RUNNING BOAT ON THE TRAILER!!!!!!!!!!!!....Never, never never never never never...MP

[georgewa]

I made the mistake of just hearing it on the trailer. There were ppl behind me coming to check it out (didn't want to miss it). This guy has a 25K bmw bike, mercedes cars, a rock crawler, etc.. He's some hollywood stunt director dude. But he seemed extremely honest, broke down all the work done to boat. I was going to check compression, but didn't have tools with me (he was totally cool about it). Visual inspection of the pump looks good (impeller), all hoses look brand new, idles/runs on trailer good, wasn't warmed up prior to me getting there.
I'll let you all know how it runs on the lake once i get the oil and plugs changed (maybe this weekend).

[pw_Tony]

80MPH huh?....hmmm yeah I bet

[maxwedge]

I would say that's a damn nice deal for what you paid. If you seach "aluminum polishing" on this forum there have been a couple of good threads on the subject, or you could just send it out to professional polisher.

[twowheeledfish]

I hate to be the odd-man-out on this thread, but personally I would not have paid any amount of money for that setup. :(

[pw_Tony]

I hate to be the odd-man-out on this thread, but personally I would not have paid any amount of money for that setup. :(
Oh come on give the Olds a break... it might last all season, or a couple passes, or maybe a run or two, or a run or tow.... never know

[twowheeledfish]

Oh come on give the Olds a break... it might last all season, or a couple passes, or maybe a run or two, or a run or tow.... never know
Its not so much the Olds, but the Olds/Jacuzzi combo that really gives me indigestion. Its like an engine with forged C4 pistons, spinning a pump filled with nitroglycerine. Something's gonna go.

[camoman]

Its not so much the Olds, but the Olds/Jacuzzi combo that really gives me indigestion. Its like an engine with forged C4 pistons, spinning a pump filled with nitroglycerine. Something's gonna go.
blown up 455 and nobody to choke :jawdrop:

[Moneypitt]

.
I'll let you all know how it runs on the lake once i get the oil and plugs changed (maybe this weekend).
Why change the plugs? You said it ran great on the trailer, plugs should be fine. Now the carb, that is a different story. Good luck.........MP

[RIVERTIME247]

80MPH huh?....hmmm yeah I bet
wow if thats 80 mph on craigs list that would put her in about a ..oh lets say a 100mph if it was on ebay!
have fun ....just crackin on the dude that posted it.

[twowheeledfish]

Yeah, nothing can touch ebay speed.

[76ANTHONY]

Greetings Jetboat people,
Just picked up a 75' Omega with a 455 Olds with a Jacuzzi WJ pump. It has been gone through about 2 years back. The Hull was reglassed, new transom, blueprinted pump, and a fresh build on the motor (2 yrs ago). It has Hardin wet exhuast (log style). Some sort of cam, with a torker intake and a edelbrock marine carb. Was painted white (some chips here and there), and has good seats and a decent bimini.
The only downside with this boat, is the guy left it under the weather without a cover for some time (did put the bimini up though). Living in La Jolla near to ocean, all of the aluminum on the motor is weathered (valve covers, exhaust, fuel tanks, etc). It's turn key, starts everytime, electric choke hooked up and all.
Our family had a jetboat for years when I was a growing up(a 75' or so ranger 455 w/berk), so I'm quite familiar with jets. I'm not so used to the extremely low sides of the boat (feels like you could easily get thrown out), and the back seat is somewhat small (sit on the floor basically). The oil filter is almost rusted open, will need to change the oil asap. Even has a custom 12 qt oil pan with baffles.
Reading on here I hear you all speaking of the potential damage to the pump (exspecially a blueprinted one) if ran dry. The funny thing is, we never paid this mind with the old jet (as with friends jets too), and didn't have problems. Think the pump was gone through once or twice in 15 some odd years.
I'll get some pictures up so you all can see it. The guy I got it from is definitely well off and needed to get rid of it so you dropped the price drastically to $2500 (i had cash). The motor and pump were built by some jetboat guy in AZ somewhere. I assume the hull might have been too. It seems like it was built right, hope it has stainless valves and such.
Also, what's the best way to polish up the aluminum stuff on the motor? And anyone running edelbrock marine carbs (carter)?
Thanks for reading....
the thing you need ta know about this olds you just bought is that you cannot run them flat out for a long period of time, i have an alds and i've been more than happy with it, but my boat isnt for racing either, as far as carbs, i have a carter that i did run on it now i have to edle's on there with a tunnel. i dont have any experience with the jaccuzzi jet, just my berk jg. dont bring that engine up high on the rpm's you will never see it together again.
and 2500 dollars is a decent deal for that boat i think, it looks nice in the pic anyway. heres a pic of my jet with thr tunnel ram on it
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/76_anthony_boat_005.jpg
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/76_anthony_boat_013.jpg

[Schiada Time]

pull the olds and put a Chevy in it. It will run for twenty years if you dont constantly have your foot buried to the floor.

[pw_Tony]

Or you can put a Ford in it and run forever. They're more expensive than a chevy and they don't make the power. But it's all pros and cons

[twowheeledfish]

I'd have to agree... even though I'm a Chevy guy when it comes to trucks and performance. But when we're talking about a good solid marine engine, the 460 Ford is tough to beat. Low compression and big cubes = reliability.

[georgewa]

Thanks for all the feedback guys.
I will get some pictures up later of the boat (hopefully running strong).
Bout the motor, I don't plan on red lining it constantly, just have some fun with it. Not trying to be super racer (yet). Sure my trick 750 standup would smoke it.
I know alot of you guys on here are anti-Olds, but I have to say from experience, my dad had bought a Ranger with a berkley and olds combo back about in 76' or so. We ran that thing at the river a couple times a year (week long trips), in the bay (he was a heavy skier, went all the time with his friends), and he only rebuilt it 2 times in over 15 years (budjet builds for that matter, usually all oem auto internals). He later gave it to a good friend who has had good luck with it, only blowing it up once in over 10 years. It has usually been turn key for the most part, a little wrenching here and there (all boaters need tools when at the river). Another one of his friends had a flat bottom with an olds, cam, port/polish work and all, it ran pretty good as well (didn't idle for shit due to the cam). Please explain the weak points of Olds compared to Chevys??? BTW, the guy said the boat has high compression heads (they're GM stamped, I'll get the numbers and post them). Maybe I should have went for the openbow with a 460 I found for 4.8K (listed at 5.5K).
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/boa/287188868.html
As for the jacuzzi pump, they guy I bought it from swares that one of the top pump guys in AZ blueprinted it (couple years ago) and it pulls great. Are the Jacuzzi WJs that bad? What's the difference to a berk, like 4 mph?
I told my dad about the "Never run a pump dry", he doesn't believe it. He has only gone through the pump once in 15 years, always starting it dry, tuning and such (along with all of his jet buddies of the 70s and 80s). Always worked, maybe he lost push and never noticed it.
I guess I'll just change the oil, and take the boat out to the lake this or next weekend and see how she pulls.
One more question, about the saltwater usage. Is it that bad? I remember when I was a kid, we would go to Mission Bay and Ski beach practically every weekend with the jet and it ran like a champ. We'd flush it of coarse (no water to pump and of coarse no salt away), but it held up. It did have a stock intake (not alum.). I would flush the shit out of it with salt away, rinse everything, and I would only be in the water for a few hours at a time. I know it's asking for trouble, but this has been something I've been used to my whole life. The bay is like 7 minutes away. Just sold a volvo I/O prior to getting the jet, it was in there atleast 200 times or so (closed cooling though).
Anyways, I'll keep you all posted and will definitely be asking questions when things come up. It's great to know that there is good forum for jetboaters....

[georgewa]

Forgot to say how my dad's old school idealology says that the 455s are "hotter" than the 454s.

[georgewa]

the thing you need ta know about this olds you just bought is that you cannot run them flat out for a long period of time, i have an alds and i've been more than happy with it, but my boat isnt for racing either, as far as carbs, i have a carter that i did run on it now i have to edle's on there with a tunnel. i dont have any experience with the jaccuzzi jet, just my berk jg. dont bring that engine up high on the rpm's you will never see it together again.
and 2500 dollars is a decent deal for that boat i think, it looks nice in the pic anyway. heres a pic of my jet with thr tunnel ram on it
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/76_anthony_boat_005.jpg
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/76_anthony_boat_013.jpgBTW
BTW, real nice boat. Nice to hear someone has a clean boat with the "dreadful" olds powerplant. I'm with you, this boat is not for racing, but it'll be a blast to ski and tube with. Can't wait to whip the hell out of ppl tubing...

[georgewa]

Why change the plugs? You said it ran great on the trailer, plugs should be fine. Now the carb, that is a different story. Good luck.........MP
The plugs look like crap on the outside (corroded), definitely got wet at one time. I'll pull a few and see what they look like. I just love the thought of nice new plugs. On my sportbike, I changed the 10K old plugs and the thing felt like a new beast. But I guess when you have to bring the idle up for some odd reason to keep it running something aint right. BTW, what kinda plugs are good to run, some good ole' autolites? It has some bosch in there right now...

[georgewa]

80MPH huh?....hmmm yeah I bet
I'll be happy and surprised with 60 real mph....

[twowheeledfish]

...and he only rebuilt it 2 times in over 15 years (budjet builds for that matter, usually all oem auto internals). He later gave it to a good friend who has had good luck with it, only blowing it up once in over 10 years. It has usually been turn key for the most part...
....
Exactly my point. I have a 460 Ford that I suspect has been in continuous service since '78. I bought it from the 2nd owner. The only work to the engine was a replacement intake manifold and shiny valve covers that were installed last year, just because I wanted some pretty. The engine has experienced zero mechanical failures. I hit the lakes/rivers 3 days a week during the summer... and not so much as a hiccup from that motor. Turnkey.
Its not that we're anti-Olds, we are just realistic about our expectations regarding a 455's reliability of service.

[CARLSON-JET]

[QUOTE=georgewa;2434090]Thanks for all the feedback guys.
1. About the motor, I don't plan to red line it constantly, just have some fun with it. Not trying to be super racer (yet).
2. Please explain the weak points of Olds compared to Chevys??? BTW, the guy said the boat has high compression heads (they're GM stamped, I'll get the numbers and post them).
3. I told my dad about the "Never run a pump dry", he doesn't believe it.
4. I guess I'll just change the oil, and take the boat out to the lake this or next weekend and see how she pulls.
5. One more question, about the saltwater usage. Is it that bad? QUOTE]
Understand that you bought a used boat. I would thoroughly check all hoses ect. and possibly even just start replacing them before going out. The last thing you want is 50PSI of water out of a 1/2" + hose filiing your boat. It happens very fast.
The pump has a few lube points that need to be tended to and I would definatly take care of those. Do a search you will find the information.
IMO you have alot of things to check before taking someones word on anything. Unless he did the work himself it is all second hand inforamtion.
The trailer needs to be safety addressed also. Check the wheel bearings, hitch, springs & shackles and lights. also I would consider the tire condition before towing very far. 3K is not alot but why risk any of it plus liability.
On to a few of your questions:
1. I would not run it above about 4k until you have flushed the oil once or twice just to be safe.
2. Above 4k a stock olds motors tend to fill the valve covers with oil as they have restrictive returns. It probably only has a 5QT. pan so this is an issue.
3. it is not a good idea to run a dry pump. If you took one apart I think you would understand.
4. I would definatly go to a fresh water lake. If there is any internal water leakage in the motor I would not want it to be salt water contaminating my oil.
5. The answer to this is in how much care you take after running in salt. aloat of guys do it and they take great care to flush all components thouroughly.
It looks like you Bought a decent boat for the $$. Take care of it until you know of any problems. Otherwise a good deal will be not so good. Have fun. R.B.

[georgewa]

[QUOTE=georgewa;2434090]Thanks for all the feedback guys.
1. About the motor, I don't plan to red line it constantly, just have some fun with it. Not trying to be super racer (yet).
We'll see how she holds, like I said we ran our boat all the time and it held up fairly well, exspecially seeing how it was always build with the most budget of parts. Need some heads, straight to the junk yard, then to a decent machine shop for a valve job. My dad might have blown it up a couple times in 10 years, but half of the fun is wrenching on it here and there. No shop install, just outsourced machine work. He used to ski before and after work in the salty bay before and after work and of coarse weekend for many years. If you guys are running 460s for 15 years without any internal motor work running it in salt and all, maybe I should think about getting one.
2. Please explain the weak points of Olds compared to Chevys??? BTW, the guy said the boat has high compression heads (they're GM stamped, I'll get the numbers and post them).
Someone please answer this one for me, what is the design flaw (weka point) of the 455? Is this possible, were there factory high compression heads for these motors? or was this guy full of it. I know you could mill them and such.
3. I told my dad about the "Never run a pump dry", he doesn't believe it.
He believes it somewhat, but he can build any motor, trans, whatever and just knows that in his day, this was not an issue. Guess some extra clearance was ok?
4. I guess I'll just change the oil, and take the boat out to the lake this or next weekend and see how she pulls.
After a through run through of all necessities it will get on the water.
5. One more question, about the saltwater usage. Is it that bad? QUOTE]
Understand that you bought a used boat. I would thoroughly check all hoses ect. and possibly even just start replacing them before going out. The last thing you want is 50PSI of water out of a 1/2" + hose filiing your boat. It happens very fast.
As stated in a previous post, all of the hoses look and feel brand new. This boat was stored near the beach without a decent cover, the salt air got to the aluminum. I'll have to thoroughly check all of them, and luckily the motor is uncovered.
The pump has a few lube points that need to be tended to and I would definatly take care of those. Do a search you will find the information.
Will waterproof grease all of the lube points well, one on the external part of the pump, one on the internal portion, and of coarse the u-joints. (already hit them), I'll have to search on here for all the hidden fittings i didn't see.
IMO you have alot of things to check before taking someones word on anything. Unless he did the work himself it is all second hand inforamtion.
Very true, I'm pananoid about everything. The dip stick is missing. Ordered one off ebay (with the tube) for this motor, don't want to drain until I get a reading. He said it's a 12 qt pan (looks like it), but I want to see where it's at before draining and refilling. Maybe some of the oil will get stuck in the baffles if they don't flow on the bottom, or whatever. I'm going to assume that it will still be a stock reading on the dipstick if the level is the same as stock, I think the pick up is stock, the pan was just extended from the hump level.
The trailer needs to be safety addressed also. Check the wheel bearings, hitch, springs & shackles and lights. also I would consider the tire condition before towing very far. 3K is not alot but why risk any of it plus liability.
Another good call, I forgot to bring a pump when picking it up. Had to half ass get the trailor near the nearest gas station pump to fill the tires before going 10 miles home. The tires look brand new. It's a dual axle too, but it was modified a bit, and the sad part is, the new fenders and other pieces were never painted. I get to get the boat off the trailor sometime and DA what I can and get some good rust killer primer, hit it, and some thing over that. Will probably just brush it, have guns, but it's a trailer (not too anal about trailer needing a color sanding/buff job).
On to a few of your questions:
1. I would not run it above about 4k until you have flushed the oil once or twice just to be safe.
Will definitely be easy on her, we'll have to see what the oil coming out looks like. Good call about the flush, maybe I'll have to just flush it after the first day out. Also need to look into getting a drain hose hooked up, it's gonna be fun draining into the hull the first change straining to get behind the exhaust.
2. Above 4k a stock olds motors tend to fill the valve covers with oil as they have restrictive returns. It probably only has a 5QT. pan so this is an issue.
Luckily the pan is one thing I know is setup properly. Has a 12 qt pan with baffles (custom), should be up to the task. It look well made, clean welds.
3. it is not a good idea to run a dry pump. If you took one apart I think you would understand.
I know running a pump dry is bad, but I hope that only running the boat for a short time, with a hose hooked up to both the motor and pump (regulated so the pump and motor get water) using a y and and regulator valves should do the trick. Found some stuff in the garage. I still don't see how the impeller would be so loose as to wear into the ring without water. I run standup jetskis all the time, and always run them dry, the rings hold up decent. The bearing that the impeller run on are strong. I only see how if you sucked up a bunch of sand prior to pulling the boat and then run it dry, you'd see a bunch of wear. Or by revving the hell out of dry and throw it out of wack.
4. I would definatly go to a fresh water lake. If there is any internal water leakage in the motor I would not want it to be salt water contaminating my oil.
Good call, I'm debating if I'll ever go in salt with the boat. Definitely going to the local fresh water res for the first run. Eventually I'll be out in the salt for big days and such. A good portion of flushing can be done for both the motor and pump with salt away without even starting the boat. Just turn it on a let it run flow for a while (of coarse run it for a bit). If there is leakage in the motor internally I not be a happy camper. Don't want to have to rip the motor apart already. Hopefully of the oil that comes out during the oil change is clean, I'm half way safe.
5. The answer to this is in how much care you take after running in salt. aloat of guys do it and they take great care to flush all components thouroughly.
Will do.
It looks like you Bought a decent boat for the $$. Take care of it until you know of any problems. Otherwise a good deal will be not so good. Have fun. R.B.
Some input has been added to the reply. Thanks for all of the input R.B., I just wanted to add comments to my approach to this boat. I plan on having much enjoyment with it this season and many more.....glad I found this site!!!

[76ANTHONY]

i love the olds engine, beast off the line and if ya leave it under 4k you'll be fine. i have opened the restriced oil flow in my olds also did some work on the connecting rods, works good for me. :D :D :D

[CARLSON-JET]

[QUOTE=CARLSON-JET;2434812]
Some input has been added to the reply. Thanks for all of the input R.B., I just wanted to add comments to my approach to this boat. I plan on having much enjoyment with it this season and many more.....glad I found this site!!!
It is good you added alot of information about your set-up and experience. I just assumed a few things as basic questions were being asked. on to some more in depth answers. If you search each question you have in these forums, one will get hours of great reading and a huge amount of information. The search function is your friend.
My answer relate to the bottom set of numbered questions/ answers
2. The oil return system is the weak link on these above 4K. Olds have very small return drains at the back of the heads from the factory. These need to be opend up or an extra external line added for sustained high rpm cruising. Search on this forum and you will find many threads explaining this.
3. Answers to this question are also searchable. The bottom line on this is the old style packing glands that stop the water from going past the pump shaft into the bilge need water lubrication and cooling. There is no way any type of hose fitting/connection is going to solve this issue. there needs to be positive pressure from the outside of the pump forcing water past these seals and pump shaft.
An ounce of prevention is worth thousands of dollars of cure. Good luck with your sea trials. :) R.B.

[Sanger Pete]

The first jet boat I owned was a 1975 Omega/455/Jacuzzi WJ. I bought it in June 1975, off the dealer's lot for $4750 and put a torker intake and 780 Holly (vacuum secondaries--the old 3310) on it. It was white with blue metalflake, white interior--2 buckets and a "U" shaped rear bench. Top speed was 62 mph at 5000 rpms in a measured mile course (no gps or radar back then), and yes, I ran that olds hard all the time for the 5 years I had it, and I even ran the pump dry, because I didn't know any better. Even though I've run Chevys in most of the boats I've had since, that Omega is my wife's favorite because it never let us down--no problems, it started and ran every time we went to the lake. My advice is do the maintenance, go to the lake and have fun.

[CARLSON-JET]

The first jet boat I owned was a 1975 Omega/455/Jacuzzi WJ. I bought it in June 1975, off the dealer's lot for $4750 I ran that olds hard all the time for the 5 years I had it, that Omega is my wife's favorite because it never let us down--no problems, it started and ran every time we went to the lake. My advice is do the maintenance, go to the lake and have fun.
Not being a smart ass here but,
27 years later would you jump in that same boat without replacing hoses ect. and take your family out? I bet not. There is a huge difference between buying a new boat and running it 5 years and buying a 32 year old boat and running it not knowing it's honest history. There is no telling who did what to that boat. The fuel lines could be rotting and about to burst. Not really the situation I would take a chance with.
I agree on the maintenance, but how much is the question here. IMO I would not chance a few hours and maybe 60 bucks worth of fuel line and water hose and possibly another 25 for a good filter unit to ruin just one day of boating or my $2800 investment. A hose that looks good on the outside may just well be ready to go.
FWIW, My Carslon came with an Olds. I really do understand what an Olds motor consists of. The 455 never let me down or left me stranded in 8 years. I did choose to replace it with a chevy when it was due for a rebuild.
In my instance after inspecting the 24 years of previous maintanence when I came into possesion of it, I would not recommend to just change the oil and go rip up the lake. This also applies to almost every classic boat I have looked at that was not restored properly.
My SWTD had some really nice stuff done like hidden JB weld to fix the tanks. Not a good thing to find out on the water. There were alot more no-no's also, but I won't go into them.
I will refine my closing sentence on the last post. An ounce of prevention could save someones life.

[georgewa]

Thanks for the input guys.
I will be going through the boat fairly well prior to taking it out for a run. In regard to the hoses and stuff, as stated before, this boat was completely gone through roughly 3 years ago. I mean, reglassing of the hull (should see the transom) glass all the way up to the nose. The pump was blueprinted, fresh build on the motor, all new interior, paint, etc.. All of the hoses look and feel brand new. I can't see replacing them for replacement sake when they appear to have hours and feel nice and soft etc..
I finally got a dipstick for the motor, supposable some kids were playing around and took it. The oil appears to be down and bit and is filthy. Now I have a nice baseline for the level, and can now drain and fill with 12 qts and see where it's at.
At the same time I will be adding a remote oil drain hose and such. An inline fuel filter (here there will be a chance to look at the fuel lines internally) will be added along with new plugs and possibly wires.
I've been reading up on the type of oil to run on here. Seems like the concensus is to run 40 - 60 single weight oil. I'm thinking a 20 - 50 blend or something. Seems like a big debate in what kind of oil to run. I should pull on of the valve covers off and see if the oil drains have been opened up. You would think that if the head don't drain oil back down to well It might be better to compromise for a not so thick oil to help with getting the oil back down.
Good to here a story about someone that bought one of these boats brand new and had fun with it, I hope to as well. I will get some pictures up (if I ever get full priviledges on here) of the boat very soon and see what you all think....

[CARLSON-JET]

George, The oil debate and what to run has definetly been gone over with alot of opinions. If you are going to change it out a few times to flush it you have a good chance to see what works best for you. I always had good luck with the 20/50 in the olds but could have been just as comfortable putting in a straite weight as well. I don't know if you noticed but almost everybody does not run their pans at full capacity. I myself only run about 9 qts in my 12 qt. pan. Something to remember. Do a search on that and you will find more good reading. I'm glad you feel confident in the condition and have checked out what you have. I just feel better safe then sorry as so many guys on here have bought boats with supposedly rebuilt motors, all new parts ect only to find out when they grenaded or had serious issues that what they were told is far from the truth. This really tends to make one lose interest fast. It sounds like you are approaching this with an open mind which to me is important. Have fun both working on the boat and on the water. R.B.

[Moneypitt]

There is a huge difference between working on your boat because you WANT to and working on your boat because you HAVE to............Boating, all aspects of boating, is suppose to be fun, keep that in mind. Sometimes it's alot harder than you think to keep that mind set...........MP
PS, a bad day boating is better than a good day working........

[georgewa]

George, The oil debate and what to run has definetly been gone over with alot of opinions. If you are going to change it out a few times to flush it you have a good chance to see what works best for you. I always had good luck with the 20/50 in the olds but could have been just as comfortable putting in a straite weight as well. I don't know if you noticed but almost everybody does not run their pans at full capacity. I myself only run about 9 qts in my 12 qt. pan. Something to remember. Do a search on that and you will find more good reading. I'm glad you feel confident in the condition and have checked out what you have. I just feel better safe then sorry as so many guys on here have bought boats with supposedly rebuilt motors, all new parts ect only to find out when they grenaded or had serious issues that what they were told is far from the truth. This really tends to make one lose interest fast. It sounds like you are approaching this with an open mind which to me is important. Have fun both working on the boat and on the water. R.B.
Why run 3 qrts low? I don't know what the pick up looks like so I don't want to go too low and have it suck air. Atleast I know where it's at right now and can add and check as I fill with the new oil. I think I'll try some 20-50 valvoline and see what happens. Again, thanks for all the feedback...

[Moneypitt]

Why run 3 qrts low? I don't know what the pick up looks like so I don't want to go too low and have it suck air. Atleast I know where it's at right now and can add and check as I fill with the new oil. I think I'll try some 20-50 valvoline and see what happens. Again, thanks for all the feedback...
Sure 20-50 is fine, but not the standard car stuff. Valvoline racing oil is less foamy than the car stuff. It holds up better under extreme duty, like a boat.....It aint cheap, but no one said boating was cheap........MP

[georgewa]

Where's the best place to find the Valvoline racing oil. Any of the big chains carry it?

[georgewa]

Have had the boat out a couple times. Changed the oil and filter (20/50 valvoline with a mobile1 filter). Everything else looked good to go, greased all fittings, plugs look decent.
Bad news; first day out ran like a champ the first 20 min or so. Was getting on it pretty hard, alot of sharp turns etc. Then while in a turn, revs up (need to replace the tach, no reading, have one to put it just anxious), hear a pop from the rear, then see smoke. Oil has came out of the right breather for sure, so I figured just ran it a bit too hard. But the pop was scary. Look in the bildge and and see a couple quarts down there (put in 10 with the change). Run it for a couple more minutes (not very hard), look in the bildge and there's a bit more oil down there. Time to take her out of the water.
Get home, flush it, and it appeared the some oil was coming out of the oil filter mount deal. Got another oil filter, hoping it was just the gasket that went bad. Got a new filter, AC delco this time, put it on, although the old one looked fine. Back on the water.
Standing over the engine to see where the leak is, the oil still appeared to be coming out of the general area of the oil filter. Thinking that at the volume of flow at WOT, the leak must be somewhere directly related to the oil pressure, not a leaky pad for sure. After me and a buddy watched the leak, we came to a conclusion that the gasket on the filter mount was bad. I thought it might have been coming from behind the flywheel, but my buddy second opinion was it was gasket on the mount. So I ran to the store to get a new gasket. Out again.
Still leaking like crazy, maybe 3 quarts in 10 minutes of hard driving. Same location, time to pull the motor. Was thinking it was the rear main seal (but should flow like that), a galley plugs, or the cam plug.
Just got the motor in the air yesterday, pulled the rear flywheel cover plate, and there was the culprit, the dang freeze plug behind the distributor was missing. Finally found the old one in the hull, i was mangled from hitting the flywheel on the way out. Went and got a new plug, and luckily was able to get it in there without pulling the flywheel going though a hole in the flywheel using a combination of a bolt some nuts, and a socket. The motor will go back in today for another go in the water tommorow. I just glad it was so easy, not a the rear main seal or even the cam freeze plug. Stoked.
Now the new dilemma is that I have found a open bow 89 kachina for 6500 that looks awfully clean, rebuilt 454 (some marine shop did all the work, looks real clean), nice stereo, gel, upholstery, the works. May have to grab it and sell the omega. Want more seating and less work. I'll be checking out the kachina today.
I just don't understand how the freeze plug shot out like that, must have been an outrageous amount of oil pressure in there....

[centerhill condor]

just drive the thing!

[76ANTHONY]

thats a loooott of oil, what kinda pans on that thing? mine was an 8qt and it was plenty. wonder if the plug was ever set right to begin with. and dammmmmm your lucky:D

[georgewa]

Looked like someone used rtv when putting the plug in, it also looked a bit smaller than the one that went in, thus was probably a hair small.
Anyways, took it out today, and it runs like a champ. No leaks with an hour or so or running, hauls ass...
Also ended up getting a Kachina 21' openbow this weekend for 6200, it is real clean but is slow as shit. Didn't think that the extra weight and size would make it that much slower. It has a low hour bbc, berkley with diverter, clean gel, seats, double pumper, etc.. Hopefully I'll be able to sell it for a bit more in a month or so. All the Kachinas 21 openbow are going for 9-13k on the trader and such. I'll be happy to get 7.5 for it. Thought it would be the upgrade, but this omega handles much better and is crazy faster. Anyone know someone looking for a openbow jet let me know. I'll post it after the title and such are taken care of....

[pw_Tony]

Looked like someone used rtv when putting the plug in, it also looked a bit smaller than the one that went in, thus was probably a hair small.
Anyways, took it out today, and it runs like a champ. No leaks with an hour or so or running, hauls ass...
Also ended up getting a Kachina 21' openbow this weekend for 6200, it is real clean but is slow as shit. Didn't think that the extra weight and size would make it that much slower. It has a low hour bbc, berkley with diverter, clean gel, seats, double pumper, etc.. Hopefully I'll be able to sell it for a bit more in a month or so. All the Kachinas 21 openbow are going for 9-13k on the trader and such. I'll be happy to get 7.5 for it. Thought it would be the upgrade, but this omega handles much better and is crazy faster. Anyone know someone looking for a openbow jet let me know. I'll post it after the title and such are taken care of....
Glad to hear the beast is running good!:D :devil:

[CARLSON-JET]

George, It's cool to hear you're getting enjoyment out of the boat. I'ts also good that that you caught the gallery plug popping before serious damage occured. "NICE CATCH"!! ;) What kind of oil pressure was the gauge showing before/after the gallery plugged popped? What is it showing now after replacing the plug? Were the lifters complaining/clacking at any point?
Post another pic of the omega when you post pics of the kachina. That craigs list add expired, so no more linked pics.
Have fun on the water..

[georgewa]

I'll definitely get some picture up soon.
As for the oil pressure, I have stupidly been running the boat with a faulty sending unit, it either shows max 80 pds (when running) or 0 when off. I'll get another sending unit before going out again. I know it's stupid, I just get anxious sometimes. I was real lucky to catch the gallery plug, but if you saw the amount of oil dumping into the boat you'd know there was a major issue.
I'll be posting the Kachina for sale on here once the title gets here, it is a real clean openbow.
The omega hauls ass though, no joke the pump had to have been blueprinted and it definitely has a decent cam, it jumps.
Just glad it was so simple, after hearing the pop and discovering the oil I was sure something snapped, but it still ran and sound good so that gave me some hope. Thanks all on here for all the support, maybe I'll see some of you out at the river this summer.....

[Sleeper CP]

Or you can put a Ford in it and run forever. They're more expensive than a chevy and they don't make the power. But it's all pros and cons
I'm glad I don't think like that. Why would I run one?..... " and they don't make the power" ? One day I'll have to tell you what the 10.75:1,single Carb through the transom headers 565 makes.
If you can't run the engine hard in a boat for long you have the wrong engine. How's Picacho to Fishers Landing turn in (13 miles) in 14 minutes flat sound ... That's an average speed of 56 mph, two guys half fuel load(13 gallons) in a "F" ing jet boat. 4,200-4,800 RPM's with a AA impeller. 60lbs of oil pressure 220 degree's Mobil One synthetic with an oil cooler of course.
I certainly don't expect the avg. boat engine to come close to doing that, but that's why I don't have an average engine or an average hull.
In any case George I'm glad to hear you had a good time in the boat and it ran just fine. Some of these guy's had me afraid to run it and it's not my money. Goodluck with it this Summer- Happy boating. Also never, ever, ever run your boat with the pump dry for more than 10 seconds if you care about the performance of your pump and want to keep it in top condition.
Sleeper Cp
___________
Going fast is only half the fun...What you make go fast is the other half.

[DOZZR]

Why run 3 qrts low? I don't know what the pick up looks like so I don't want to go too low and have it suck air. Atleast I know where it's at right now and can add and check as I fill with the new oil. I think I'll try some 20-50 valvoline and see what happens. Again, thanks for all the feedback...
I am using valvoline racing 50 weight I have a 10 qt pan (olds) and if I fill it to capacity it blows the oil out (breathers) til it hits about 8 and a half quarts. The new motor only has around 10 hours on it and the blowby is minimal and seems to be getting better as everything seats (rings) I was really concerned at first about it not wanting to hold down all 10 qts, but once it hits the 8-81/2 qt mark all the problems stop and every time I check the oil it is at the same level. I am just going to re-notch the dipstick and keep my foot out of it for extended periods of time. Last but not least I am really thinking about putting it on e-bay for a few days, although everything in and on the boat has been re done or is new, I am only getting low 70's (the ranger at our lake here is going to use his radar gun and clock me this week) But I am certain that if I post it on e-bay for a few days it'll come back absolutely perfect AND THEN it'll be a 100 + mph boat :D