PDA

View Full Version : BBC eagle rods and crank



jungledave
03-16-2007, 06:32 PM
Anyone out there know if any of the eagle 454 stuff is any good? CNC motorsports sells a rotating kit; forged rods crank and pistons, KB pistons for about $1600. Has anyone used or bought or have any knollege of the quality of this stuff?

Machinist
03-16-2007, 06:42 PM
Eagle parts have tolerances all over the board, and are not heat treated properly. I can measure .001" taper across a journal, out of range journals, and have seen sets of rods that are out of round straight from the box. The cranks when balancing are super soft and cut like butter...that being said there are plenty of people out there using them in 700hp+ applications, just not something I will do.
If you need a cheap rotating assy, Probe industries is the cheapest I would go, I have had pretty good success with their parts being in spec out of the box.
I am not sure what the retail cost would be for you, but it costs me $1550 for their Dominator series 4340 crank, 4340 rods, forged pistons/rings, and bearings as a complete kit from them. Your cost might be $400 more, but you are getting forged pistons and clevite "H" bearings for that extra.
How much power are you looking to make?

GofastRacer
03-16-2007, 07:40 PM
I'm currently building a K motor using Eagle crank and rods, can't beat the price but they're far from ready to go, specs are out to lunch but even with the corrections it's still a good deal!.. But you also have to remember "you get what you pay for"...

RICHARD TILL
03-16-2007, 10:48 PM
i`ve had good luck with scat crank and rods.

Moneypitt
03-17-2007, 06:10 AM
Alot of the retailers of Eagle cranks turn the imported std/std cranks 10-10 to straighten them as well as bring the journals into spec. I can't really blame any failures on Eagle cranks we've used in the past, but it is hard to tell after a major problem wipes everything out........MP

WETTE VETTE
03-17-2007, 07:33 AM
I'm running an Eagle crank and rods in my NA 598 and so far 4 seasons with no issues and frequent 6500 RPM runs. I checked the bearigs after 3 seasons and everything looked great. I did buy the assembly from a reputable shop and they checked all of the machining and did the balance work. I have no complaints! If the machining is off it doesn't matter which assembly you are using. That being said be sure to double check everything during assembly!
Craig

WannabeRacing
03-17-2007, 07:22 PM
I trust eagle rods with my life. I throw tons of power at them and tons of RPM. I have yet to have a failure of any kind. Had a transmission come apart and stuck the throttle on a spread port engine open. 11,000 rpm and the eagles were A-O.K.
The cranks on the other hand are good pieces, but usually come on the high, or out of tolerance, and need to be cut to be on the low and straight. If you have a good crank guy that can cut it to the low for cheap, go for it. They are a good crank when you get them right.

jungledave
03-18-2007, 05:14 AM
Eagle parts have tolerances all over the board, and are not heat treated properly. I can measure .001" taper across a journal, out of range journals, and have seen sets of rods that are out of round straight from the box. The cranks when balancing are super soft and cut like butter...that being said there are plenty of people out there using them in 700hp+ applications, just not something I will do.
If you need a cheap rotating assy, Probe industries is the cheapest I would go, I have had pretty good success with their parts being in spec out of the box.
I am not sure what the retail cost would be for you, but it costs me $1550 for their Dominator series 4340 crank, 4340 rods, forged pistons/rings, and bearings as a complete kit from them. Your cost might be $400 more, but you are getting forged pistons and clevite "H" bearings for that extra.
How much power are you looking to make?just around 450-0500 but I wanted to have a good base for later when I go with a better head. I will check into the probe parts do you know their web sight. What I was wanting to do was run a longer rod and that was the main reason for going after market. I have a good standard cast crank and heavy rods. Block will go .020. Since we are on the subject, what is your opinion on Hyper versus forged pistons in a jet boat?

SmokinLowriderSS
03-18-2007, 06:31 AM
I don't think I've seen anyone in here happily using hyper's in a boat, of any kind, but there may be some who just haven't spoken up on it.
Personally, I'd go forged, period. If you try to do forged on a budget, I don't think you can beat Speed-Pro Powerforged. They are a good solid piston, and they will only break you arround $50 to $60 per hole, instead of $100 for somew pf the really nice ones.
Unless you plan to double that 500HP ballpark, I'd run the SP's.

GofastRacer
03-18-2007, 06:44 AM
Yep what he said, forget the Hyperjunk go forged and the Speed-Pro's are the best bang for the buck!..

mach1alaska
03-18-2007, 08:07 AM
Horspowerwizard has probe forged pistons for about $30 they are a good piston http://www.horsepowerwizard.com/Results.asp?MakeID=2&MakeName=Chevrolet&EngineSize=454%20C.I.&ProductCategory=25&ProductCategoryName=FORGED%20PISTONS

Moneypitt
03-18-2007, 09:04 AM
[QUOTE=mach1alaska;2449292]Horspowerwizard has probe forged pistons for about $30 they are a good piston [url]
$30. bucks!!! I would be hesitant @$30........Kinda like a $10. motorcycle helmet.......Really $30.....Oh well, live and learn. I would kinda lean towards the SRPs, made by JE and the ones I've seen were really nice. Regardless of the brand you choose, go with the HD wrist pins, an absolute must for a boat motor, IMO..............MP

bubbletop409
03-18-2007, 09:14 AM
Horspowerwizard has probe forged pistons for about $30 they are a good piston http://www.horsepowerwizard.com/Results.asp?MakeID=2&MakeName=Chevrolet&EngineSize=454%20C.I.&ProductCategory=25&ProductCategoryName=FORGED%20PISTONS
I believe those pistons being shown are for a 454SBC application, based upon the 64cc chamber spec. BBC's all have much larger combustion chambers, and different valve relief locations.

jungledave
03-18-2007, 07:31 PM
I don't think I've seen anyone in here happily using hyper's in a boat, of any kind, but there may be some who just haven't spoken up on it.
Personally, I'd go forged, period. If you try to do forged on a budget, I don't think you can beat Speed-Pro Powerforged. They are a good solid piston, and they will only break you arround $50 to $60 per hole, instead of $100 for somew pf the really nice ones.
Unless you plan to double that 500HP ballpark, I'd run the SP's.Well thanks for the info to all and I am forgetting the hypers, machine shops around here really like them though. I think I will stick with my stock rods and crank and see how long it will last. I found KBforged for $425 and 10.7 with my 121 cc 049s.

jungledave
03-18-2007, 07:34 PM
Horspowerwizard has probe forged pistons for about $30 they are a good piston http://www.horsepowerwizard.com/Results.asp?MakeID=2&MakeName=Chevrolet&EngineSize=454%20C.I.&ProductCategory=25&ProductCategoryName=FORGED%20PISTONSI have their phone number and will have to give them a call monday. Thanks

River Rat 005
03-19-2007, 05:32 AM
Jungledave, I built the 450-500 hp you are talking about with stock parts. It is a ,030 over 454 with 9.5:1 forged pistons, 2 bolt main, stock 3/8 rods with polished beams and arp bolts, crank and rods .020 under maybe even .030 I'm not sure, a 244@.050 with .623 lift roller cam, oval port heads with 2.19/1.88 valves, dart intake and 850 double pump. Built the motor in '89, ran the snot out of it on the lake and raced it in 2 jet boats and a hydro. Set it in the corner only because I built a motor to race. Goin to freshen it up and put it back in the Kona when I get time.

Infomaniac
03-19-2007, 05:53 AM
I use Eagle stuff frequently And Ohio Crank Stuff.
Just blueprint everything closely !! torque a bearing in every rod and every main. Measure everything and mix and match until you get what you want.
I make sure they send HX bearings with ALL eagle stuff or the clearances will be too tight.
And put/check the rear main bearing on the crank before you install it. I hate taking the crank back out to sand the thrust on the rear main.

GofastRacer
03-19-2007, 07:24 AM
Well, I just had to have this one turned journals weren't even round!...

jungledave
03-19-2007, 06:45 PM
Jungledave, I built the 450-500 hp you are talking about with stock parts. It is a ,030 over 454 with 9.5:1 forged pistons, 2 bolt main, stock 3/8 rods with polished beams and arp bolts, crank and rods .020 under maybe even .030 I'm not sure, a 244@.050 with .623 lift roller cam, oval port heads with 2.19/1.88 valves, dart intake and 850 double pump. Built the motor in '89, ran the snot out of it on the lake and raced it in 2 jet boats and a hydro. Set it in the corner only because I built a motor to race. Goin to freshen it up and put it back in the Kona when I get time.That cam is A LITTLE bigger than I am going to run but other wise pretty close. I guess I should be happy with the stock stuff and forged pistons. I planned on the performer rpm air gap intake and for now will run a 750 vacume. Glad to hear it held up so well.

Machinist
03-19-2007, 08:27 PM
Well, I just had to have this one turned journals weren't even round!...
That's what you get with offshore parts lol.
Look at the price for the Callies Compstar stuff and see how much you are saving with Eagle's, then consider that with the Callies, the metal is higher grade, better forging process, in-house machining and quality control, etc...

ghittner
03-19-2007, 08:32 PM
Been running Eagle for all last season, Easy build, very happy.

AzMandella
03-19-2007, 09:02 PM
I like Ohio Crank.I have one of their 514 rotating assembly with new crank h-beam rods,custom ordered JE pistons with Speedpro rings and clevite H series bearings.$1675.00 Balanced.When it went to the machinist and he sent it back without having to correct anything.Spin it up to 6800 for 3 seasons now with no problems.

396_WAYS_TO_SPIT
03-19-2007, 09:13 PM
I ran speedpro's in my BBC with 12-1 compression and a solid cam on a cast crank 2 bolt main block. I spun it to 6k and she still looks puuurdy;) Speedpor's are the best bang for the buck!!!! I paid $380 for my set from summit and got them in 2 days;)

Machinist
03-19-2007, 11:58 PM
TRW/SpeedPro are great pistons for the money...heavy as shit, but you will have a hard time breaking one.

GofastRacer
03-20-2007, 06:26 AM
That's what you get with offshore parts lol.
Look at the price for the Callies Compstar stuff and see how much you are saving with Eagle's, then consider that with the Callies, the metal is higher grade, better forging process, in-house machining and quality control, etc...
Hey, it's the usual "you get what you pay for" lol, but when the budget is tight???, still have way less into it than a Callies though, just hope it holds up,LOL..

River Rat 005
03-20-2007, 06:42 AM
I forgot to put in the post that the crank is stock cast. The Kona is a heavy lay up for lake use with a Jaccuzzi(sp) with B impeller and on the ADBA clocks it ran a best of 12.78@78 mph ususlly it was 13.00@ 75.