Spicer universals

[BrendellaJet]

How can I tell which version I have? All it says is "spicer" and some other letters/numbers. I know one is more heavy duty, how can I tell if I have it or not?

[Havasu Carrera]

Spicer Heavy Duty is the one with NO Zert feittings. YEP!
I would figure the ones with the zert would be heavy duty but thats not the case.
The #'s tell width x length and Cir. but just go get the ones that match. Pep Boys my favorite!! lol Hope that helps.:)
Just realized we are neighbors. If you need any special help or anything to do with Drive Shafts call or stop by and see Wade at drive shafts unlimited. He is down by Irvine Auto Center.
Tell him Tim @ Saddleback Valley Towing Said Hi.

[wickedfab]

make sure to get spicers and not a knockoff that fits.
zirk compared to non zirt is a myth i have yet to determin. search over on pirate4x4.com and you might come up with something. but logic would say the greesable ones would be stronger because they do not make them to hold extra greese inside like the non greesable ones. go to the parts store lookw at bothe and pull the end caps off ;) the greesable ones look much more beefy throughout with the caps off.
excuse my spelling ...im going to bed now

[TahitiTiger]

Spicer also has them where you can grease them through the end caps. The Jeep, and 4x4 guys beleave that drilling the cross to put the zerk fitting in, weakens its integrity. Yet I have been selling heavy duty class A truck parts for 10 years, and they all have there zerk fittings in the cross.
On a side note though, my zerk fittings are in the end caps, others wise I couldn't grease mine :)

[DelawareDave]

1350 has the clips inside, with a groove in each cap. 1310 has the clips on the outside, and they are very visible.

[Unchained]

A word to the wise about u joints.
Be smarter than me and get the highest strength ones you can and replace them on regular intervals if you're running big hp.
When my u joint let loose last fall I didn't realise it at the time but it cracked the suction housing next to the front bearing.
I little worse and it could have sunk the boat.

[Rexone]

Use genuine spicer Ujoints. There is a difference.
I can get you the measurements when I get to the office. I stock both 1310 and 1350 series.

[junkyardhunter]

1350 has the clips inside, with a groove in each cap. 1310 has the clips on the outside, and they are very visible.
1350's are bigger than 1310's.1350 is what was used on most 1970-80's 3/4 & 1 ton trucks.

[DelawareDave]

1350's are bigger than 1310's.1350 is what was used on most 1970-80's 3/4 & 1 ton trucks.
No S**t Sherlock! Original poster wanted to know how to identify the U-joints. I described the easiest method. Also check your info before you dispute someone. My info is correct as to design.
1310 u-joint:
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/1310.jpg
1350 u-joint:
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/3062D-line-1.JPG
Note the position of the retaining clips in each driveline.

[Rexone]

Before you guys get all wound up on the clip deal, it is not a reliable method of id'ing spicer ujoints. 1310 and 1350 is a "size" series, not a model. Observe the 1310 and 1350 Hbar style drivelines in the picture on this page (http://www.rexmar.com/page126.html). Both have outside clips.
There are also a few other non-spicer u-joints that have been used in various non-spicer jet hbar style drivelines over the years too.

[DelawareDave]

I did a little homework after I posted and found both styles can have the clip either inboard or outboard, or a combination of both. I am quite aware of the size difference, but was always under the impression they were easily recognizeable by the clip location. Live and learn, I reckon. :D

[Rexone]

It very well may be that they make either or both models that will accept either clip but the type we use in the jet h-bars accept external clips only.
I know there are several different OE models they use in trucks, etc that aren't the same even though they are 1310 or 1350 basic series joints and some of those do use internal c-clips.
Here are the size specs on the u-joints we use in the jet H-bars:
1310 - across - 3.250" Cap diameter - 1.062"
1350 - across - 3.650" Cap diameter - 1.187"
I took these measurements with a dial caliper so they may not precisely match Spicer specs but will be very close.
It's also likely that there's been jet H-bars over the years using Spicer joints with internal clips. I have seen several variations of these driveline parts.
There was also H-bars made by Rockwell. These were very popular in the 70s-80's but became unavailable at some point (can't remember exactly when). Spicer and Rockwell parts aren't interchangable. The Rockwell H-bars I'm familiar with all bolted directly to the flywheel or flexplate (using 4 of the 6 flywheel bolts). The spicer units bolt to a separate power take off flange making the final assembly slightly longer than the Rockwell. So when replacing an old Rockwell with a Spicer the engine usually has to move forward a bit to accommodate the additional length. Just some additional driveline trivia. :)

[BrendellaJet]

So basically I have to take it apart and measure to know which I have...

[Rexone]

The cap diameter is enough different you should be able to take a small scale and hold it up to the cap and check the diameter within range to determine which you have.
There's also a .400 difference across so if you can get a scale on that angle that would tell you also.
If it's out of the boat it should be easy but still doable I would think in the boat. But if you're replacing them anyway it's kind of a moot point as it has to come apart anyhow. :confused: