water lines?

[460 jus getn it]

does anyone have pics of there cooling system. im going to steelbraid my water lines but i dont know where im going to put the T at.does anyone have the T right at the water pump plate. i have a bbf..............thanks

[BigBlockBaja]

Will this help?
Cooling (http://www.liquidaddiction.net/cooling.htm)

[Cole1313]

does anyone have pics of there cooling system. im going to steelbraid my water lines but i dont know where im going to put the T at.does anyone have the T right at the water pump plate. i have a bbf..............thanks
I could draw you a picture of what mine looked like. Why are you going to change to braided lines???

[Taylorman]

How about doing this. Its the same as using a crossover.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/vidrinek/Boat/Picture031.jpg
http://www.rexmar.com/images/page166.jpg

[Cole1313]

How about doing this. Its the same as using a crossover.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/vidrinek/Boat/Picture031.jpg
http://www.rexmar.com/images/page166.jpg
Damn, that looks really nice

[Devilman]

does anyone have pics of there cooling system. im going to steelbraid my water lines but i dont know where im going to put the T at.does anyone have the T right at the water pump plate. i have a bbf..............thanks
What do you have for a T now? On mine the T is under the engine. Splits underneath with the 2 hoses coming up the front into the plate....

[460 jus getn it]

I could draw you a picture of what mine looked like. Why are you going to change to braided lines???i have my water lines as just regular rubber hose. braided lines look better................

[Devilman]

I could draw you a picture of what mine looked like. Why are you going to change to braided lines???
You know petroleum products are bad for rubber hoses, right? :cool: :rollside:

[460 jus getn it]

What do you have for a T now? On mine the T is under the engine. Splits underneath with the 2 hoses coming up the front into the plate....
thats the way i have it right now. i have the tee under the pan. i have seen some peeps who run the incomming line up to the motor and tee it off right there......

[460 jus getn it]

You know petroleum products are bad for rubber hoses, right? :cool: :rollside:
not if they repell oil....dont do it bastard...........................

[MudPumper]

I used a Water inlet Crossover that I got from Teague. Works great.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1653Rail9_Front-med.JPG

[Devilman]

thats the way i have it right now. i have the tee under the pan. i have seen some peeps who run the incomming line up to the motor and tee it off right there......
Can't you just replace what you have with the braided hardware? Or you just looking to change it up a little as well?

[Cole1313]

I used a Water inlet Crossover that I got from Teague. Works great.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1653Rail9_Front-med.JPG
Where is the exit fromthe pump???

[Devilman]

not if they repell oil....dont do it bastard...........................
Thats not what I meant. My driveline flings grease down in the bilge. Water spreads it around, then next thing you know, greasyass hoses all under the motor. Unless you have a cover or something, my driveline is exposed. I grease it pretty often, hence the extra grease.....

[Cole1313]

Thats not what I meant. My driveline flings grease down in the bilge. Water spreads it around, then next thing you know, greasyass hoses all under the motor. Unless you have a cover or something, my driveline is exposed. I grease it pretty often, hence the extra grease.....
That was my reason for asking, why to spend the money to go braided. Muppumpers looks nice. I would think this would be the cleaner route to go

[BigBlockBaja]

Thats not what I meant. My driveline flings grease down in the bilge. Water spreads it around, then next thing you know, greasyass hoses all under the motor. Unless you have a cover or something, my driveline is exposed. I grease it pretty often, hence the extra grease.....
Greese your driveline, then wrap it in saran wrap followed by the almighty duct tape and call it a day.
:crossx: :crossx:

[Devilman]

That was my reason for asking, why to spend the money to go braided. Muppumpers looks nice. I would think this would be the cleaner route to go
Yeah, it does. Taylormans looks pretty awesome as well. I don't really worry about it, cause my back seat covers all that up. No use in paying extra for some shiny shit that nobody can see. Only pieces of hose visible on mine is short section where it comes out from under the engine to the transom. Thats only about 2 1/2, maybe 3 feet....

[Devilman]

Greese your driveline, then wrap it in saran wrap followed by the almighty duct tape and call it a day.
:crossx: :crossx:
LMAO! I guess that would work alright. You do that?

[MAXIMUS]

You need to make sure that you are getting a balance of water to each side of the motor! In the past I have gone through a lot of work to center the tee & use equal length hose to the inlets. Then I had a brain storm one night after a shot of herion & a taste of crack. Now what I do is run an oversized line, like a -10 to the inlets with any lenght line necessary for a clean installation. Then I use restrictors at the inlet fittings. What this does is makes the final entrance on the motor the same & creates a resevoir type of senario out of the lines in mention. I do this on my jet & on my GN boat which is feed off of cav plate psi only. It works very very well. It should also be mentioned that you want to use a larger size line on the discharge side of the motor than that of the inlet side. This way it helps reduce block psi at high speeds. There for if you use a -10 on the inlet with a -8 size restrictor then you can also use a -10 on the water dumps. Sorry for the long post...
Also 460 if you want some really cool products for your braided lines pm super dave. He has killer prices on good fittings & hose. I am a big fan of the nickle plated fittings he carries! :) Watch it though he is a limp wrist... :D

[MudPumper]

Where is the exit fromthe pump???
I'm not exactly sure what your asking, but the way it is set up is like this. If I remeber correctly, I have a -10 coming in off the pump that goes into a water pressure reducing regulator and then up to the inlet crossover on the front of the motor. Water exits through the Thermostat housing (no thermostat inside) throught two -8 lines. One of the -8 lines goes directly to an overboard dump and the other runs up the drivers side floor under the seats to a manual gate valve located just under my seat where I can reach down and adjust header water. The line then goes back under the motor to a Bassett T and then to the headers. I removed the ball and spring from the Bassett T and installed the manual valve under my seat because the Bassett T would never work at the right RPM's and it was a pain in the ass. I have a pressure guage on the intake manifold and I see about 12lbs pressure while cruising and 22lbs at WOT. Temp usually runs about 140. I have all AN fittings and use the Black Cloth Braided Push on Hose. It's cheaper than Braided Steal but looks better than plain rubber. If you decide to go with Braided definately call Super Dave. He has the best prices for sure. :rollside:
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/1653IMG_0380.JPG

[Cole1313]

I'm not exactly sure what your asking, but the way it is set up is like this. If I remeber correctly, I have a -10 coming in off the pump that goes into a water pressure reducing regulator and then up to the inlet crossover on the front of the motor. Water exits through the Thermostat housing (no thermostat inside) throught two -8 lines. One of the -8 lines goes directly to an overboard dump and the other runs up the drivers side floor under the seats to a manual gate valve located just under my seat where I can reach down and adjust header water. The line then goes back under the motor to a Bassett T and then to the headers. I removed the ball and spring from the Bassett T and installed the manual valve under my seat because the Bassett T would never work at the right RPM's and it was a pain in the ass. I have a pressure guage on the intake manifold and I see about 12lbs pressure while cruising and 22lbs at WOT. Temp usually runs about 140. I have all AN fittings and use the Black Cloth Braided Push on Hose. It's cheaper than Braided Steal but looks better than plain rubber. If you decide to go with Braided definately call Super Dave. He has the best prices for sure. :rollside:
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/1653IMG_0380.JPG
I meant Block not pump. Sorry! The Bassett T sucks I agree. So you just ran it to a manual valve?? How does it work? Do you just turn the valve on at 1500 RPM's???

[Devilman]

I meant Block not pump. Sorry! The Bassett T sucks I agree. So you just ran it to a manual valve?? How does it work? Do you just turn the valve on at 1500 RPM's???
I have a Bassett T as well as a ball valve on mine....

[460 jus getn it]

I have a Bassett T as well as a ball valve on mine....
i have a basset t valve as well. water to the headers at 2200, i havent had a problem yet...............

[Cole1313]

i have a basset t valve as well. water to the headers at 2200, i havent had a problem yet...............
That is really surprising, considereing the water in our lakes is like mud. I would think that it would get boogered up over the years. I like muppumpers idea of eliminating it. It was so hard to get to if the ball got stuck.

[460 jus getn it]

http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/15700421051034.jpg

[460 jus getn it]

if you look at the above picture. you can see my water lines as they are. my fuel lines are all braided as well as the header lines. look at the water pump plate and you see they red lines incomming.

[Devilman]

Thats what mine looks like, except for the split coming back out. There is a thermostat housing that is split in the middle. One hose goes back down, under the motor, out the back a the boat. The other has the valve right up top, runs down to the Bassett T, & then splits off to the headers....

[Devilman]

That is really surprising, considereing the water in our lakes is like mud. I would think that it would get boogered up over the years. I like muppumpers idea of eliminating it. It was so hard to get to if the ball got stuck.
I had that happen, the ball/spring, got boogered up & wouldn't let any water go to the headers. Which of course turns the headers all funky, unless they are coated like 460's are. I cleaned it up, problem fixed. I stll have the manual valve ahead of the Bassett T to reduce the amount of water going to the headers or just cut the header water off completely if I need to.....

[460 jus getn it]

Thats what mine looks like, except for the split coming back out. There is a thermostat housing that is split in the middle. One hose goes back down, under the motor, out the back a the boat. The other has the valve right up top, runs down to the Bassett T, & then splits off to the headers....
yea you can see where i have my t valve at, its right off the thermostat housing.......braided lines look better thats my main purpose in doing it.....

[MudPumper]

I meant Block not pump. Sorry! The Bassett T sucks I agree. So you just ran it to a manual valve?? How does it work? Do you just turn the valve on at 1500 RPM's???
I tried the Bassett T and could never get it adjusted right. It either came on too early or late or would not shut off the water at the right RPM. I tried the Banderlog valve for a while and it worked great when it was working, but the solenoid kept getting stuck open. I tried to remedy the broblem with Jim who used to own the company but couldn't figure out what was up. So basically I just installed the manual valve under my seat. I get up on plain and crack it open, a quick look over my shoulder lets me know if it's adjusted correctly and just before coming off of plain I shut it down. Never fails, and I don't have to worry about reversion.

[460 jus getn it]

That is really surprising, considereing the water in our lakes is like mud. I would think that it would get boogered up over the years. I like muppumpers idea of eliminating it. It was so hard to get to if the ball got stuck.
only problem i have had is the spring broke, it rusted and from what i hear thats normal. i keep an extra spring and ball with me in case it breaks again. i have some shit get caught in there but thats not a big deal..............