Synthetic vs Conventional Oil - HP Gains?

[VDRIVERACING]

Reaserching oils has led me to read claims that synthetic oil can actually increase horsepower (or perhaps reduce parasitic loss). In any event, I would like to know if anyone has experience with this via actual dyno tests.
Note to GN7 - You're right about Valvoline VR1 Racing oil, it is also marketed for the street. If you want the zinc additive, you need Valvoline Conventional Racing oil which states it includes extra zinc, AND is for off road use only (it's about $2 more a quart than VR1, but about half that of synthetic oil).

[cyclone]

i've done multiple dyno tests on engine and chassis dynos and have seen as much as 13hp from switching from conventional motor oil to full synthetic in various engines and trucks. Have seen gains with Royal Purple every time.

[IMPATIENT 1]

i've done multiple dyno tests on engine and chassis dynos and have seen as much as 13hp from switching from conventional motor oil to full synthetic in various engines and trucks. Have seen gains with Royal Purple every time.
love royal purple, stands up great in alky mills!! i used to run modifieds in my early 20's and after a hard nite dumping methanol, the oil would come out sooo clean, i ran it in lawnmowers:D

[Beer-30]

i've done multiple dyno tests on engine and chassis dynos and have seen as much as 13hp from switching from conventional motor oil to full synthetic in various engines and trucks. Have seen gains with Royal Purple every time.
I've seen a chassis dyno test on a newer Camaro LS-1 6-speed car. Engine, trans, power steering, rear end. All had normal lubes for the baseline test. After RoyalPurple was put in all of those categories, it was 11 or 12 hp total gain at the rear wheels.

[cyclone]

did that same test on my dually and gained 10hp.

[5/8 hondo]

Is there a problem with switching to synthetic after an engine has run on conventional for one season?

[4trax]

What weight syn. oil should a guy use and where do you get Royal purple at? This would be for a boat 454 mild build.

[pancho]

i was considering the royal purple also,i have the cam that has had the hardness issues,is this relevant,also how about running it in the casale?

[pancho]

as a side note i caught something on a business channel a while back,they profiled royal purple,it was stated that they have the highest minimum standards for the crude they use,also most of their process is proprietary and patented,so seems like the real deal?

[VDRIVERACING]

I've seen a chassis dyno test on a newer Camaro LS-1 6-speed car. Engine, trans, power steering, rear end. All had normal lubes for the baseline test. After RoyalPurple was put in all of those categories, it was 11 or 12 hp total gain at the rear wheels.
Would have been interesting to know what the change to the engine alone was...

[Beer-30]

Would have been interesting to know what the change to the engine alone was...
True.

[Beer-30]

Is there a problem with switching to synthetic after an engine has run on conventional for one season?
That is the way most are done. Synthetic is too slippery (in theory) to properly allow rings to break-in. It is commonly recommended to run conventional oil for a period and then switch.
Then engine doesn't care. As long as it has oil, it will run fine. There are people that run performance motors on everything from $1/qt Firebird 76 recycled 5-30, to $13/qt Torco full racing syn., so on and so forth. All are happy with the performance of their motors, if you ask them. Some like Kendall, some RoyalPurple, Mobil-1, etc.
My main point is, all of these different engines are built the same way as the next. Bearings, rings, flat or roller cams. All of them are running different oils. One engine cannot make a decision on which oil it likes. It can't decide to wear funny just because a different brand or type of oil is put in after the previous.
So, no. Then engine doesn't care if you want to switch to a different oil. Switch to what you like and let her fly.

[Racey]

Is there a problem with switching to synthetic after an engine has run on conventional for one season?
The problem is if you are constantly switching back and fourth or mix syn with non-syn, it can cause coagulation, which can lead to nasty things like oil pres problems

[bigriverdog]

i've done multiple dyno tests on engine and chassis dynos and have seen as much as 13hp from switching from conventional motor oil to full synthetic in various engines and trucks. Have seen gains with Royal Purple every time.
Mikey, Which grade do you run in your boat? Thyere straight synthetic or the 51 grade etc?

[CircleJerk]

A Casale will run 20 degrees cooler with Amsoil with NO water cooling. Raced 6 years with no complaints. Used it in gear box and crankcase. I am now a believer in Amsoil synthetic.

[VDRIVERACING]

Anyone ever try NEO oil? I think they are in Long Beach CA

[cyclone]

Mikey, Which grade do you run in your boat? Thyere straight synthetic or the 51 grade etc?
5W30 Royal Purple. synthetic.
how's ur boat? ready for BR?

[gn7]

The problem is if you are constantly switching back and fourth or mix syn with non-syn, it can cause coagulation, which can lead to nasty things like oil pres problems
Actually thats an old problem that the API made them fix, which is what allows the oils companies to made blends now. The early stuff was ester base and didn't get along to well with mineral based oils. We are still fighting this problem in the A/C bizz with the oils that come in some compressers.

[Fired Up]

I just switched from conventional oil to Royal Purple in my modest little 10:00 bracket boat. A good friend who runs in a much quicker class and a very well built engine claims added HP with RP, not a lot, but some. Verified on the Dyno according to him. This last race I went the quickest ever, handing the trophy to my competition in the trophy dash when I broke out for the first time in the last 3 years. My only change over the winter was the oil. And believe me, I can't squeeze any more HP out of her. She is what she is. Good Luck.

[Fiat48]

I just switched from conventional oil to Royal Purple in my modest little 10:00 bracket boat. A good friend who runs in a much quicker class and a very well built engine claims added HP with RP, not a lot, but some. Verified on the Dyno according to him. This last race I went the quickest ever, handing the trophy to my competition in the trophy dash when I broke out for the first time in the last 3 years. My only change over the winter was the oil. And believe me, I can't squeeze any more HP out of her. She is what she is. Good Luck.
Not taking anything away from the possibility that the oil helped you but...remember you drive a flatbottom. They are variable.
Driving the boat a little more free....the air change could have tuned you up...several things could have happened. One would think if you went to this race...with the new oil...which gave you more power...you would have broken out rounds ago and not just in the final. Just some food for thought.

[Fired Up]

All things good were in alignment.....water....weather....tune-up....synth oil....driver.....:)

[adjones419]

I don't know about HP gains, but we just tore 2 engines apart this weekend to freshen them up. One had been running Mobil1 synthetic and the other was conventional oil. The rod bearings in the engine with synthetic oil had not been replaced in 2 years and looked brand new!!!...and this is in a 522 Nitrous motor in a P/E hydro. The other rod bearings came out of a 477 in a 10 second Hondo runnerbottom and were only a year old but showed more signs of wear.

[LakesOnly]

Reaserching oils has led me to read claims that synthetic oil can actually increase horsepower (or perhaps reduce parasitic loss). In any event, I would like to know if anyone has experience with this via actual dyno tests.
HP gains are regularly proven; the proper use and application of synthetic lubricants have several benefits, many of which HP is a byproduct of their characteristic superiorities. Just be sure to read up and research which brand/type is best for you, as some are not compatible with MeOH, while others are, etc.
Synthetic oils are supierior in almost every way, be it film strength, anti-wear, volatility, viscosity stability over wider temperature variation, usable life span, etc. I ran a synthetic in a 460 in a wagon for tens of thousands of miles and never changed the oil again (changed the filter every 10,000 mi.) Never a problem and the vehicle ran excellently for as long as I owned it. Years ago, I rebuilt a Datsun truck, broke the motor in hard for 1800 miles, then switched to a synthetic. I beat the living crap out of that motor, piss-wound the shit out of it, etc., I tried to kill that engine, brick on the gas pedal while in neutral, etc. And, I changed the oil and filter every 15,000 miles. At about 83,000 miles I took the thing apart for the hell of it and it looked as good as the day I put it together.
After a full and complete warmup and a long pass (30-40 seconds), my jet boat motor will have 40psi at 5000+ rpm and about 19-20 psi at idle. After changing to Amsoil it holds 60/30 psi, respectively.
Lotta good sythetics out there. As good as Royal Purple has proven to be to others, personally I have a hard time forking out $27,000,000 per quart for my daily vehicles when Mobil1 is about $20/5 quart jug at Wal-Mart. But the nice motors usually get something in between those two.
LO

[4trax]

Lotta good sythetics out there. As good as Royal Purple has proven to be to others, personally I have a hard time forking out $27,000,000 per quart for my daily vehicles when Mobil1 is about $20/5 quart jug at Wal-Mart. But the nice motors usually get something in between those two.
LO
Hey Lakes, I can only find 10-30 Mobile1 at are Wal-mart and other places. I was told to run 20-50 Penzoil. Where and what weight do you run?

[gn7]

As good as Royal Purple has proven to be to others, personally I have a hard time forking out $27,000,000 per quart for my daily vehicles when Mobil1 is about $20/5 quart jug at Wal-Mart.
LO
you evidently have no idea how expensive it is to make purple oil, as opposed to blue green and orange

[DMOORE]

Hey Lakes, I can only find 10-30 Mobile1 at are Wal-mart and other places. I was told to run 20-50 Penzoil. Where and what weight do you run?
If you are going to run the Mobil-1, do not run the extended life oil. It is a different formula than the original, and not as good (one reason it is cheaper).
The 0-40 is a much better oil. And cont worry anout the 0 in the 0-40. It is simply designed to flow faster at start-up.
Darrell.

[Beer-30]

If you are going to run the Mobil-1, do not run the extended life oil. It is a different formula than the original, and not as good (one reason it is cheaper).
The 0-40 is a much better oil. And cont worry anout the 0 in the 0-40. It is simply designed to flow faster at start-up.
Darrell.
0w Mobil-1 is (from what I hear) what NASCAR(s) run for qualifying. That's good enough for me. I feel 10-30 is plenty thick enough for a motor with good clearances.

[dossangers]

I think alot of HP gains are made from thinner oil and less pressure in the oil pump! I heard that before syn oils prostock raced with trans fluid. Dont know how much HP it takes to pump 60 wt through a motor? For endurance i run torco 50 wt syn-blend that what my engine builder swears by he runs it in there a/gas willys !!