Having pump rebuilt, questions

[stonehedge]

I have a factory Berk pump, came on my '78 Bahner, had it done several years ago and its time to go through again.
Not a race boat, point A to point B, turn key, cruiser.
Lots of new stuff out there. Not an expert, nor claim to be.
Was thinking of changing the reverse scoop/door, the old style hangs way down and I have a fatory droop snoop so it kinda hangs even lower, word is the newer style has way less drag, is it worth the upgrade?
Was gonna redo the inspection door to the smooth style, better flow.
And was thinking about the "pre-impeller"/"inducer", totally new to me, not a racer but do love bottom end and mid range fun, is this thing anygood?
Going through the entire pump anyways, so these are a few iteams I was wondering about.
Please be gentle, I never claimed to "know it all" thanks

[stonehedge]

..oh yea been in the family since the day the boat rolled off the line. Original owner and happy with the pump all these years, but some change is good.

[ck7684]

I am also about to rebuild my pump, so any input would be great!! I have the same question about inducers...

[thatguy]

I am in worse shape. I know engines, not pumps. My miller leaks at the transom-bowl seal. Most say use only the O-Ring, CP does not show an O-Ring for the JC (one piece). It is filled with silicone now, clean looking job, but it does leak when water is put in the boat. Just a drip leaking out, faster leaking in when boat is in water, due to the wieght I am sure. I am afraid to pull the transom plate. What if I seal it worse? Engine is out now, suppose I should man up and yank the bitch.
Tommy

[e514jet]

Stone, I had my pump completely redone by Tim speers at PRO boat in GA.
(770-928-1533). There are alot of knowledgable people out there but, thats
who i went with. A good friend of mine has a borum and tim did his pump too. He was very happy with the results. While he had the pump apart he machined the input shaft to accept an inducer. Tim suggested We tried the pump without the inducer first. Turned out that I didn't need it. I have speed loader, droop snoot and had the old style reverse nozzle. I just installed a hydraulic place diverter and couldn't be happier. Fully control of my trim with 40 degrees of sweep (20up, 20down). Also Its the FTN (fine tune nozzle)Model so I can change the inserts to create more velocity or less depending upon which diameter works best. I'm sure you will get some more insite from
other jetters on here but, at least give tim a call. He's very knowledgable
and probably could lead you toward what you really need and what you don't.
E

[DelawareDave]

I am in worse shape. I know engines, not pumps. My miller leaks at the transom-bowl seal. Most say use only the O-Ring, CP does not show an O-Ring for the JC (one piece). It is filled with silicone now, clean looking job, but it does leak when water is put in the boat. Just a drip leaking out, faster leaking in when boat is in water, due to the wieght I am sure. I am afraid to pull the transom plate. What if I seal it worse? Engine is out now, suppose I should man up and yank the bitch.
Tommy
Look Here (http://www.cpperformance.com/products/Jet-Drives/Berkeley/transom-seals.htm)

[stonehedge]

thanks for the input.
Guess I should put some info.
Its a '78 Bahner, flat deck/semi V. Came blown from Bahner, 454(full stingers). Over the years we ditched the blower and just went for a turn key, still has a 454(basic nothing fancy).
Running a top loader, works well.
The pump has the droop, and a place diverter. When it was blown we ran a AA, but when I did the pump a few years back we ran a (???) cant remember and need to check. No ride plate, and no extension on the pump.
Just going through it and replaceing everything, and was thinking of adding/upgrading on the ol'girl.

[Cas]

thatguy,
How big is the gap between the bowl and transom adaptor? If it's 1/8" or bigger, try using surgical tubing, it works real well. I just got through putting my TA adaprot back on and that's what I used. I ran a bead of Fast Cure 4200 Polyurethane Adhesive/Sealant in the gap, inserted the tubing and then ran another bead around the outside.