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View Full Version : need quick reply... RTV



shaun
04-03-2007, 07:48 PM
Book is talking aobut using a gasket sealer for the timing cover... Is it talking about RTV gasket maker or a sealer adhesive like the 3m super weatherstrip & gasket adhesive.
The book told me i would need 2 types, RTV and this 3m stuff but the book is not being very clear on which to use... This 3m stuff is rediculis stuff to use, it drys fast and is hard to work with!
I'm in the garage right now so looking for a quick responce!

Oldsquirt
04-03-2007, 07:56 PM
Shaun, you should not need either! Install the timing cover gasket dry.

Machinist
04-03-2007, 08:08 PM
Gaskacinch or 3M the gasket to the block, then install the cover dry.

GofastRacer
04-03-2007, 08:31 PM
I glue the gasket to the block with contact cement, then use white grease on the cover, never leaks and you can use it over and over, everytime i put it on dry it sticks to the cover and tears the gasket!..

Machinist
04-03-2007, 08:45 PM
I glue the gasket to the block with contact cement, then use white grease on the cover, never leaks and you can use it over and over, everytime i put it on dry it sticks to the cover and tears the gasket!..
Cheapskate! :D

GofastRacer
04-03-2007, 08:50 PM
Cheapskate! :D
Focken ayy!..:D :D

Oldsquirt
04-03-2007, 08:56 PM
Nearly 3 decades in the repair industry has taught me an important lesson. If you absolutely feel the need to glue a gasket, glue it to the part that is REMOVEABLE. Examples would be water pumps, timing covers, fuel pumps. You get the idea. :) Makes any future repair and associated gasket cleanup a bench project, saving a whole lot of scraped knuckles, sore backs from leaning over engine compartments, etc......... It also saves a whole lot of TIME. The only exception to this would be those items that will not stay in place and cannot be glued to the removeable item. That pretty much narrows it down to the occasional oil pan gasket being replaced in-car.
Art, I use the greased gasket idea on my pump gaskets. If I ever needed to deal with a problem at the lake, I know there would not be a new gasket anywhere to be found.

GofastRacer
04-03-2007, 09:04 PM
Nearly 3 decades in the repair industry has taught me an important lesson. If you absolutely feel the need to glue a gasket, glue it to the part that is REMOVEABLE. Examples would be water pumps, timing covers, fuel pumps. You get the idea. :) Makes any future repair and associated gasket cleanup a bench project, saving a whole lot of scraped knuckles, sore backs from leaning over engine compartments, etc......... It also saves a whole lot of TIME. The only exception to this would be those items that will not stay in place and cannot be glued to the removeable item. That pretty much narrows it down to the occasional oil pan gasket being replaced in-car.
Art, I use the greased gasket idea on my pump gaskets. If I ever needed to deal with a problem at the lake, I know there would not be a new gasket anywhere to be found.
Gluing the gasket to the removable part is ok as long as it's iron, but it's a bitch if it's on an aluminum part, like a timing cover and when it's on a motor that comes apart for inspection all the time, I'd rather have it on the block that way there is no scraping the aluminum if it does happen to stick!.. Now on a daily driver, shit I put it on permanent,LOL..

Oldsquirt
04-03-2007, 09:12 PM
These days I'm pretty lucky. No more paper gaskets. It's all RTV, o-rings, or steel shims with captured o-rings.
I've scraped too many water pump gaskets and fuel pump gaskets to ever glue a gasket like that to the block. Part fails, gets pulled off and takes its gasket with it to the trash/recycling pile.

GofastRacer
04-04-2007, 04:41 AM
These days I'm pretty lucky. No more paper gaskets. It's all RTV, o-rings, or steel shims with captured o-rings.
That is nice!..:D

f_inscreenname
04-04-2007, 04:47 PM
On oil pan, timing chain cover, intake ends and around water ports and water pump I thin coat RTV on both side of the gaskets. Steel and aluminum expand and contract at different rates and all it takes is one leak to piss you off. But I build motors to stay. If I planned on ripping them down just to look at them I may have to do something different. Usually if I have to rip a motor down (happens more then you would think) its getting a complete rebuild and most likely a trip to the machine shop anyway. And they wont touch it unless its been boiled. ;)