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marty722
04-11-2007, 07:59 PM
I want to make my own BRAIDED fuel line and water lines. I have not done this before so is there a tip or trick on how to do this? Is there a website that I can learn how to connect anodized connectors to a BRAIDED line? Also what size is a fuel line and what size is a water return line? Thanks

pebo
04-11-2007, 08:30 PM
Just give SuperDave here on the board a buzz. Has everything you need and great pricing http://www.sweetperformance.com/product/index.php

67weimann
04-11-2007, 08:53 PM
If your talking about AN fittings, they're easy. To cut the SS Braided line, wrap some electrical tape tightly around where you want to cut it to keep the braids from fraying. Then I use a cut-off wheel on my grinder to cut it. Don't try to cut straight through rather cut around the perimeter firdt to help prevent fraying. After you cut it, clean the crap out by blowing through it, then the fitting goes on. They are kinda like a compression fit. Unscrew the hose end and place it over the lines, puch the line on to the fitting and tighten the end down paying attention so that as you tighten it, it doesn't push the hose out. That's how I did it.
As far as sizing, depends on how much fuel you need delivered to your motor. I use -6 for fuel but only run a mild SBC. Might want to use -8. water I think is -10. I ain't no expert. Just how I did it...:D

79centurion
04-11-2007, 09:54 PM
What ryan said, except expect to get jabbed by a few stray braided wires:D
Dan

Aluminum Squirt
04-11-2007, 10:54 PM
Not to take anything away from Superdave because I've heard nothing but good about him, but I'd look at making hard lines. Its pretty time intensive but if done carefully they look great and will last longer than most things on your boat. You can make some braided lines for some of the connections or the tricky runs. There are nice SS clamps to support the lines that look great. Keep in mind I have not done this but I've seen lots of pictures and done some research, always wanted to tackle this project. From what I understand, you need a special flare tool (37 degrees instead of the standard 45 degrees of most regular pipe tools) to make the connections but other than that its just a whole lot of bending, cutting, and fitting. A pipe bender and pipe cutter will also help. The cutter and bender are pretty reasonably priced. I think the 37 deg flare tool is a little more expensive. I think if you shoped around you could get all three for under a $100. I'm pretty sure the raw hard lines are substantially cheaper than most of the braided stuff but I'm sure Superdave will know more about that. Search for some pictures, I think there have been a couple of threads about it-Aluminum Squirt

BA Kurtis
04-12-2007, 05:42 AM
When putting ends togather use a little grease on threads, like others have said call Dave he's the man

marty722
04-12-2007, 07:38 AM
Thanks for all of the great info.... if I understand right the couplers go on the line then you press the coupler end. is this correct? Do you need a special tool to pree the coupler on? Thanks again for the great info...

cfm
04-12-2007, 08:34 AM
What ryan said, except expect to get jabbed by a few stray braided wires:D
Dan
The two most common things about hotrodding:
1) Braided line poking thru fingers and hitting a nerve
2) Getting shocked by a high out put ignition when turning the cap
LOL !!!

superdave013
04-12-2007, 09:09 AM
If you want you swing by with your boat some time. I'll map out all the parts with you (will save you a few trips trust me). Also I'll put them together for you. Or the more cost effective way is I'll show you how to do it. I would do the first one with you to be sure you have it down. Then you could take the parts home and fit it all together yourself.
I'm also a big fan of s.s. hardlines. Alot more labor and you'll need a flaring tool (37 degree) and a bender for each size tube. The tools you would use on copper don't cut it with stainless tube. But if you want to go that route I do have the nuts and sleeves in both alum and stainless.
714 223 9322

superdave013
04-12-2007, 09:33 AM
Not to take anything away from Superdave because I've heard nothing but good about him, but I'd look at making hard lines. Its pretty time intensive but if done carefully they look great and will last longer than most things on your boat. You can make some braided lines for some of the connections or the tricky runs. There are nice SS clamps to support the lines that look great. Keep in mind I have not done this but I've seen lots of pictures and done some research, always wanted to tackle this project. From what I understand, you need a special flare tool (37 degrees instead of the standard 45 degrees of most regular pipe tools) to make the connections but other than that its just a whole lot of bending, cutting, and fitting. A pipe bender and pipe cutter will also help. The cutter and bender are pretty reasonably priced. I think the 37 deg flare tool is a little more expensive. I think if you shoped around you could get all three for under a $100. I'm pretty sure the raw hard lines are substantially cheaper than most of the braided stuff but I'm sure Superdave will know more about that. Search for some pictures, I think there have been a couple of threads about it-Aluminum Squirt
You would be shocked at the price of stainless these days. It's close to the same as the hose really. I don't know about getting the flaring tool and bender for 100 bucks. A Parker flaring tool is over 80 bucks. I just wore one out and am buying another (until I buck up for the big power flarer = big $$$$). I just can't use the cheep benders. The tube just laughs at them. lol
I like Swagelok benders the best. They have nice rollers instead of a shoe. They do not ovalize the tube or mark it up. And they even bend it instead of bending it's self. A 3/8 one will set you back over 200 bucks. The 1/2" is even more. Worth it hands down though. They can be found on e bay from time to time or a good deal.

superdave013
04-12-2007, 09:35 AM
Thanks for all of the great info.... if I understand right the couplers go on the line then you press the coupler end. is this correct? Do you need a special tool to pree the coupler on? Thanks again for the great info...
You will not want to use the crimp hose ends. You will want to use the "re-usable" hose ends. All you need is a vice, wrench and some lube to screw them together.

MKEELINE
04-12-2007, 10:00 AM
You should definitely take Dave up on that offer. He will know what you need and the fittings he sells are really nice. Get a pair of the aluminum vice jaws, they make life alot easier.

marty722
04-12-2007, 11:17 AM
You should definitely take Dave up on that offer. He will know what you need and the fittings he sells are really nice. Get a pair of the aluminum vice jaws, they make life alot easier.
I'm going to take him up on it.... Thats the best invite I had in along time.... I like to learn new things also.... Thanks all for the info....

superdave013
04-13-2007, 06:47 AM
I'm here Monday - Friday 8 to 5 (but never seem to get out before 7)
Saturdays are hit and miss so call ahead of time.
Just let me know when you want to come over.
Sweet Performance Products, Inc
461 Industrial Way
Placentia, CA 92870
714 223 9322

BrendellaJet
04-13-2007, 07:50 AM
Dave to you take Credit Card?

TRIMMIN
04-13-2007, 09:55 AM
That's a great offer from Dave. If I were in CA that's what I would have done. I'm sitting on extra fittings and alot of shipping charges. For me it was a build as you go and no one here stocks polished fittings.

Kindsvater Flat
04-13-2007, 08:34 PM
Dave to you take Credit Card?
Yes he does.
And sometimes when you try to line up the flats so it looks neat you went to far.:D
http://www.schoutenranch.com/miscboat/fitting.JPG

GofastRacer
04-13-2007, 08:39 PM
You just went one flat too far, not supposed to go all the way!..:D

superdave013
04-14-2007, 06:16 AM
Ok, I've had some questions via pm from a few different people. I'll just answer then all here.
Open Mon - Fri 8 to 5 (always here later it seems)
Saturdays - I try but call first.
Sundays - I'm at Pomona Swapmeets Row 22 space 20 and at Long Beach row B space 16.
Credit cards, Visa and MC
Cost to plumb a typ jet boat. That's hard to say because they really are all different. I can't see starting from scratch and doing it less then 500 bucks or so. But I've seen people go crazy and spend 1,300+ bucks.
K-Flat prolly used WD40. Most people that break fittings do. Use a general purpose grease or good old motor oil.
If you guys have left over parts that still look new (ie, un-used with no pipe dope or wrench marks) send that stuff back. I'll work with you and the US mail is cheep/easy. Once hose is cut you own it.
The offer stands for any of you guys. Just call in advance if you would like to bring your project by. I'll map it all out with you and make sure you know how to put it together. It will save you time and money (less extra's and left overs). To get the most out of it have every thing mounted before you get here. Leave some space between things to allow for the adapters and hose ends.
I don't do boat rigging. I can make / machine parts but I just do not have the space or man power to do rigging jobs. I can point you in the right direction though.
Phone calls work better the PM's 714 223 9322
Thanks for all the intrest.

marty722
04-14-2007, 01:04 PM
Dave I pm'd you and I know you got a ton a emails but I wanted to ask you if I bring down the hoses that I want replaced and the connectors will that work... I'm only going to do 4 or 5 hoses to start with. I can either leave them with you or you can show me how to do it and I'll buy the material from you then I'll be on my way... Will that work you do you need the boat? Thanks for your help
Marty
If this will work I'll call you mon morning and let you know what time I'll be there. It would be after the LA traffic...

CARLSON-JET
04-14-2007, 04:15 PM
Ok, I've had some questions via pm from a few different people. I'll just answer then all here.
If you guys have left over parts that still look new (ie, un-used with no pipe dope or wrench marks) send that stuff back. I'll work with you and the US mail is cheep/easy. Once hose is cut you own it.
Thanks for all the intrest.
Something I have learned. If the item is shipped USPS one may simply write "Return to sender" and ship the item back no charge if done in a timely fashion.
I have to say I had serious sticker shock from the price of all the fittings and lines. But it looks good and if you take care of the fittings they should last a long time.