PDA

View Full Version : Nordic plate adjustment?



2Sangers
04-18-2007, 04:00 AM
Can someone give me a starting point for adjusting the cavitation plates on a 1970 Nordic flatbottom? Where should the handle be when making these adjustments? Should it be flat side to side or angled?
The boat ran 73.5 yesterday with a 355 aluminum headed chevy. It doesn't seem to really free up. I know this is a heavy hull.
Any help is greatly appreciated.

BA Kurtis
04-18-2007, 05:37 AM
I am not an expert but I will tell you what has worked for me, the handle needs to be in the forward position (plate free and no load on the turn buckels), the plates should follow the shape of the bottom (flat,slight v), set plate with the bottom useing a straight edge thats were I would start and if the boat is still running wet and heavy turn each turn buckle half turn up making sure plates stay straight from side to side. This is a starting piont for you hope it works out. You mentioned a handle, do you have a down pedel? If not you should get one.

LeE ss13
04-18-2007, 06:58 AM
I have a 72 Nordic FB that I have had forever. (Through 3 wives anyway). I have found that to free the boat up to run its best for the HP that you make, the setup of the strut, strut angle, and v-drive are the most important. Back when I ran this boat with NJBA, it ran 75 with the stock setup. I got some advice from another Nordic owner on the numbers that should work for me. After I changed the location of the strut and strut angle, the boat ran 85 with the same engine and with the cav plate up from level 1/2". It was as free as I could get it with the HP I was running. Anytime you have to run the plate down at full speed to correct the ride, it slows the boat down. Now I know some of the guys here will mention engine location, but I think that is more important for runnerbottoms with way more rocker than these old FB have. After I stopped racing this boat, I moved the enging back 18" to put 4 seats in it. It runs the same at full speed. It just takes longer to come off the down pedal. I'll post a picture of it running when I get home. I don't have access to the HB Image Center from work. Just my $.02

Sanger D
04-18-2007, 07:13 AM
my little super sanger was like that......12deg. box and 10 deg. strut with the gear box sitting at 86 in.off the transom.600 hp and the boat went 86mph , took alot of work just to get it that fast,was kinda iffy at high speed,liked a nice chop. plate setting was about a 1/4 in. down from boat bottom level.worked well,it was better to have a lil plate in it and choose choppy water to run in( believe it or not ,it seemed to be a safer,faster run).but deff. find out strut deg. and box location, prop change helped too,but do these things ONE AT A TIME!!!!!!! good luck.

DansBlown73Nordic
04-18-2007, 11:34 AM
The big thing is one thing at a TIME....Turn those turn buckles a little and try it. My first time moving the plate I had a boat that was all screwed up. :confused:
I have my plate on my Nordic set-up with kind of a V to it. I do not have a down pedal just a handle. Lets see a picture of your Nordic.

LeE ss13
04-18-2007, 12:36 PM
One of the best methods I have seen used is to remove one end of all the turn buckles. The plate should be in a neutral position or level with the bottom of the boat. Set the locking handle to 3/4 forward. Adjust each turn buckle so you can reattach each one without having to lift or push down the plate. From there you can then make adjustment to shape it as you like. DB 73Nordic's V shape works well. I have seen guys use a gull wing shape with the plate up a little at 1/4 and 3/4 across the plate. Whatever you do, don't let anyone talk you into adjusting one corner down. That can make for some surprizes when you turn or go over rough water. More $.02

2Sangers
04-18-2007, 12:59 PM
Thanks for all the input.
The boat belongs to my buddy, and he is reading your replies. As I get more info I will pass it along.
The little chevy is located in the same place a 429 Ford once sat. Probably a big wieght difference?
There is no down pedal or override.
This boat has 2 large fins inline with each other about midway up the keel.
Did I mention the hull is HEAVY?

Sanger D
04-18-2007, 02:31 PM
you NEED to find out the angle of that strut and placement of the gear box,,I doubt very much theres enough HP to carry the nose of that boat!!!!!!Find out those measurements and then find out what gears are in it,All these things are going to matter alot because you dont have the ponys that you need in that heavy hull.find out this stuff and then you can start to tweek things ONE AT A TIME with some test time, it will take a while.

BA Kurtis
04-18-2007, 03:15 PM
Think about this at 70 or 80 mph you want both hands on the steering wheel not one on the wheel and one one the handle so make it right and put a down peddle in it, much safer and easyer.some more .02:D

LeE ss13
04-18-2007, 07:30 PM
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/308NJBA_Nationals2.jpg
I think this is just about as free as you can make an 800 lbs 72 Nordic run. It has an 8 degree strut with the v-drive in at 96".

DansBlown73Nordic
04-19-2007, 01:43 AM
If that boat was anymore FREE it would be an AIRPLANE!!!!!!:sqeyes:

2Sangers
04-19-2007, 06:19 PM
I will try to get a visual of Andy's boat this weekend. I was watching from the dock so couldn't see how aired it is. I'll take my boat and run next to him and see what it is doing.
Thanks for the input. We are just having fun, not competing.