Oil temp sender instal

[76miller]

I'm going to instal a temp sender in my oil pan, and had two things that I was unsure of. 1)What size drill bit to use before tapping the threads.(dont have a chart) 2) Just use liquid teflon around threads and hope it doesn't leak ?....Im a little nervous because this oil pan cost me $600 bucks! I also hate a oil filled bilge ! Any tips ?? Thanks

[RiverDave]

I'm pretty sure your going to have to have someone weld on a female pipe thread (bung) to match your oil sender..
Oil Senders have NPT threads, and you should have quite a bit of engagement in the threads to get a proper seal. Secondly if all is good with the threads on the sender, and the threads on the female part, then I don't believe you'll need any sealant? (Talk to someone else on that though, becuase most the stuff I do isn't changing temps like an engine would)
If you just drill a hole in the oil pan and screw your sender into it, I don't think there'll be enough wall thickness to achieve what your trying to do is basically what I'm trying to get at.
600 bucks? Dammn!!
RD

[centerhill condor]

If you just drill a hole in the oil pan and screw your sender into it, I don't think there'll be enough wall thickness to achieve what your trying to do.
600 bucks? Dammn!!
RD
yea, what he said...dammn!
try that drill and screw on another piece of sheetmetal like an old car fender before you do the pan. Also, beware of metal shavings going inside the pan.
Something to consider is using a non destructive method of attaching the sending unit to the oil filter housing. If you strap the sending unit to the oil filter and insulate sufficiently you may not require a hole in the pan. It won't be as accurate but won't require pulling the engine, etc.

[76miller]

Ok, that makes sense. The wall thickness of the pan seems pretty thin. Ya, $600 bucks...Bassett really boned me on that one ! Thanks for the advice.

[76miller]

Condor, i know i could use the remote filter location but Im curious of my temp in the pan, where most of my oil is. The motor is out right now so I could drop the pan, but Im trying to get around that, if possible. My pan does have a female bung on it but my oil drain hose is connected to it. Does anyone have a trick way of using a 't' fitting, with one side going to the temp sender and one side going to the drain line ?

[FOURQ]

I just did mine.. I went to the local supply store and got a weld on bung and brazed it to the pan. i drilled a hole just one size bigger than the probe on the temp sender. If its an aluminum pan then I would weld it but carefully of warping the rails, if it is steel then braze it on if you MIG or Tig it you will weaken the surrounding area making it possible to crack later on.

[Taylorman]

I welded steel fittings in my oil pan for my drain lines. I think that would be your best option is to weld a fitting in the pan to screw your fitting to. Use a little thread sealer when screw the sender into the bung, it prevents thread galling and helps seal it up.

[DMOORE]

You could do a tee off the pan. One side of tee is sending unit, the other is the drain line. No drilling and no welding. And yes, it will read accurate.
Darrell.

[ck7684]

$600 and it didnt come with a bung for a temp sender?? Anyhow, research where to place the sender also. Oil temp in the pan can vary. There can be a layer of oil at the bottom that is a diferent temp then the rest I believe?? I cant say exactly, but something to look into...

[centerhill condor]

Condor, i know i could use the remote filter location but Im curious of my temp in the pan, where most of my oil is. The motor is out right now so I could drop the pan, but Im trying to get around that, if possible. My pan does have a female bung on it but my oil drain hose is connected to it. Does anyone have a trick way of using a 't' fitting, with one side going to the temp sender and one side going to the drain line ?
Personally, I would be satisfied with the oil temp in the hose immediately after the outlet fitting. Plus, you could easily "T" (wihtout welding) into the hose and call it a day. I like the short "T" in the drain bung also. Let us know how what works.

[TahitiTiger]

If you don't want to drill your pan, they used to make dipstick sending units. I beleave VDO made them.

[TJS]

I just did mine.. I went to the local supply store and got a weld on bung and brazed it to the pan. i drilled a hole just one size bigger than the probe on the temp sender. If its an aluminum pan then I would weld it but carefully of warping the rails, if it is steel then braze it on if you MIG or Tig it you will weaken the surrounding area making it possible to crack later on.
I have tigged many oil drain back fittings for tubo guys in the steel and alum pans. Never had a problem with weakening anything of the sort. I have pans out there going on over 5 years with many miles and no cracks or leaks or signs of fatigue.
http://www.tonym302.com/uploads/newcombo/DSC00921.JPG
T.J.
www.tjsperformance.com

[tahitijet]

u could install a brass 90 in the oil drain and drilll and tap the side of it for the sender and install your hose on the end of the 90.. that way it's not all bulky and you can get squared 90's from OSH for a few bucks. thats what we do for air gauge fittings all the time.
also i think i'd use a small amount of liquid teflon NOT tape the tape could eventually break off and start floating around in the motor.