Pressure Regulator

[Taylorman]

I think im gonna put a pressure regulator off my pump. Is there a need for a gate or ball valve before the pressure regulator. Ive seen some installs that have a valve along with the regulator. Im wondering what the reason for having both?
Is there anyone that makes a SS pressure regulator. Im talking about the bypass type water regulators such as the ones like in this picture.
http://www.hi-techperformance.com/images/Water_Bypass_Kit_DCP_0726.jpg

[Willis]

http://www.watts.com/pro/_productsFull_tree.asp?catId=64&parCat=285&pid=776&ref=2
This regulator has worked fine for me.
Used it in two pleasure boats

[HBjet]

I think this is the new model for what I run. It has a max inlet pressure of 400psi and output range from 25-75psi
http://www.watts.com/pro/_productsFull_tree.asp?catId=64&parCat=285&pid=3431&ref=2
HBjet

[BrendellaJet]

either of those posted should work. There are still lots of the older part # on the shelves if you go to a hardware/plumbing store...Try to get one that has the built in strainer.

[Konabud]

To my way of thinking, any time you have a open hole below the water line it's a good thing to be able to shut it off somehow especially if you're going to use plastic fittings. (but that's just me). Here's my setup.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/3112bypass.JPG

[pw_Tony]

To my way of thinking, any time you have a open hole below the water line it's a good thing to be able to shut it off somehow especially if you're going to use plastic fittings. (but that's just me). Here's my setup.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/3112bypass.JPG
What's the deal with the hose going back out the transom?

[Jetaholic]

What's the deal with the hose going back out the transom?
That hose is a bypass hose. It's connected to a ball/spring bypass valve.
Basically when the incoming water pressure exceeds 15-16psi, that valve opens and dumps the excess pressure overboard.

[minnesota_duane]

To my way of thinking, any time you have a open hole below the water line it's a good thing to be able to shut it off somehow especially if you're going to use plastic fittings. (but that's just me). Here's my setup.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/3112bypass.JPG
Where did you get yours? Do you have a part number for it?

[Jetaholic]

McMaster Carr carries them. They sell them for $45.21 and you want the one for 3/4" pipe size, and you want the one made for 0-300psi.
http://www.mcmaster.com
McMaster Carr's part #9763K12

[shaun]

just curious, why would you want a bypass? Seams like you would want to keep any extra pressure you could in the pump....

[G-Body]

The bypass is there to save the gaskets in the engine cooling system. Jets can build lots of pressure in the cooling system (50+psi) and an automotive engine is really only made to handle 16-17psi. You don`t want to restrict the water flow to the engine because then you might not have enough volume to keep it full, so the easiest way is to put in a valve to release the extra pressure. It is only a small volume that is released, well small compared to the overall volume that flows through the jet, so it doesn`t really affect performance.

[pw_Tony]

I definetly need one of those! That'll probably fix my problem right now. Thanx!

[TIGGER]

I picked up my boat real cheap because the engine (olds) was taking in water. I replaced all the gaskets after I bought it and installed the pressure valve assembly that Taylorman posted and have not had a problem since.

[Jetaholic]

I definetly need one of those! That'll probably fix my problem right now. Thanx!
If you routinely find water in your oil you definitely need one.
While you're at it, add a thermostat kit and you'll have a self adjusted/self regulating system with the right amount of water pressure/volume and good block temp, and never have to worry about adjustments!

[HBjet]

The bypass is there to save the gaskets in the engine cooling system. Jets can build lots of pressure in the cooling system (50+psi) and an automotive engine is really only made to handle 16-17psi. You don`t want to restrict the water flow to the engine because then you might not have enough volume to keep it full, so the easiest way is to put in a valve to release the extra pressure. It is only a small volume that is released, well small compared to the overall volume that flows through the jet, so it doesn`t really affect performance.
So how do you control the water temp in the motor?

[HBjet]

To my way of thinking, any time you have a open hole below the water line it's a good thing to be able to shut it off somehow especially if you're going to use plastic fittings. (but that's just me). Here's my setup.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/3112bypass.JPG
On this setup, how do you control the water temp in the motor?
HBjet

[tahitijet]

On this setup, how do you control the water temp in the motor?
HBjet
I have been using this since i started running my boat with great results.. what i did on mine was installed a ball valve on the dump line out of the motor (not the one on the bypass) I started wtih it fully open and slowly closed it off a little at a time to slow the exit of water leaving the motor. the water in the motor is slowed down allowing it to heat up the more u close it down the higher the operating temp the more you open it the lower the temp. With the bypass it always asssures your block is completly full.. high volume low preasure lots of water with no fear of milking the oil or blowing gaskets.

[tahitijet]

I think im gonna put a pressure regulator off my pump. Is there a need for a gate or ball valve before the pressure regulator. Ive seen some installs that have a valve along with the regulator. Im wondering what the reason for having both?
Is there anyone that makes a SS pressure regulator. Im talking about the bypass type water regulators such as the ones like in this picture.
http://www.hi-techperformance.com/images/Water_Bypass_Kit_DCP_0726.jpg
id put one as close to the transom as possible.. if you have a failure anywhere in the line your only hope is good bilge pumps if you can't shut it off.

[Jetaholic]

I have been using this since i started running my boat with great results.. what i did on mine was installed a ball valve on the dump line out of the motor (not the one on the bypass) I started wtih it fully open and slowly closed it off a little at a time to slow the exit of water leaving the motor. the water in the motor is slowed down allowing it to heat up the more u close it down the higher the operating temp the more you open it the lower the temp. With the bypass it always asssures your block is completly full.. high volume low preasure lots of water with no fear of milking the oil or blowing gaskets.
And with this setup, it's pretty much almost as if you're running a manual thermostat.

[BrendellaJet]

Just my opinion here, but ball valves are ghetto. The system can be made to run without them if you put enough effort into it.

[Konabud]

Where did you get yours? Do you have a part number for it?
Rex Marine, they're recalibrated to 10 to 50 lbs
http://www.rexmar.com/page184.html

[Konabud]

On this setup, how do you control the water temp in the motor?
HBjet
I don't, I just run it wide open, The boat came that way in '78 and according to the previous owner and a lot of people around here, it's not necessary. If you wanted to you could still run a Tstat with this setup as all it's doing is regulating the pressure.

[HBjet]

I have been using this since i started running my boat with great results.. what i did on mine was installed a ball valve on the dump line out of the motor (not the one on the bypass) I started wtih it fully open and slowly closed it off a little at a time to slow the exit of water leaving the motor. the water in the motor is slowed down allowing it to heat up the more u close it down the higher the operating temp the more you open it the lower the temp. With the bypass it always asssures your block is completly full.. high volume low preasure lots of water with no fear of milking the oil or blowing gaskets.
That is exactly how I cool my motor, but I do not have a bypass line. I run a pressure reducer/regulator that has a max inlet pressure of 400psi and an output of 25-75psi range. I have put a gauge on my motor and it see's around 25-26psi with the water temp being 125 degrees. The only water dump lines I have are from the water exiting the motor and from the bildge. I just do not understand why you would want to run another line and cut another hole in the boat when you do not need to. And the ball valve off the pump puzzles me because a ball valve should only be used on the exiting water to adjust engine temp. Not used to restrict flow for controlling engine temp.
HBjet:)

[Jordy]

And the ball valve off the pump puzzles me because a ball valve should only be used on the exiting water to adjust engine temp. Not used to restrict flow for controlling engine temp.
HBjet:)
If I'm reading it correctly, that ball valve is there strictly to shut off the water should something let go inside the boat, rather than having water pouring in and having the bilge pump try and keep up getting it all back out. ;)

[Taylorman]

Rex Marine, they're recalibrated to 10 to 50 lbs
http://www.rexmar.com/page184.html
They are also calibrated to $75.

[4trax]

I think this is the new model for what I run. It has a max inlet pressure of 400psi and output range from 25-75psi
http://www.watts.com/pro/_productsFull_tree.asp?catId=64&parCat=285&pid=3431&ref=2
HBjet
I have put a gauge on my motor and it see's around 25-26psi with the water temp being 125 degrees.
HBjet:)
Aren't these still to much PSI for a automotive engine?:idea: I thought 15-18psi is max that you would want.:idea: Mines set at 8psi with rex thermostat kit and runs 160' no matter what speed.:) I also run a ball vavle just to shut water off to boat if a hose breaks:jawdrop:

[HBjet]

If I'm reading it correctly, that ball valve is there strictly to shut off the water should something let go inside the boat, rather than having water pouring in and having the bilge pump try and keep up getting it all back out. ;)
What could possibly let go that would allow more water into a boat that is floating (not running since something has let go) and the bildge pump could not keep up with it? Just curious... I know if your intake cracks or you have hull failure, you could have large amounts of water entering the boat that a bildge wouldn't be able to keep up with, but those cases a ball valve wouldn't help at all.
Hm...
HBjet

[HBjet]

Aren't these still to much PSI for a automotive engine?:idea: I thought 15-18psi is max that you would want.:idea: Mines set at 8psi with rex thermostat kit and runs 160' no matter what speed.:) I also run a ball vavle just to shut water off if to boat if a hose breaks:jawdrop:
No. Been running it for over 5 years on the same motor with no problems. I need to run my motor at 125 degrees so I need more water flow, but not so much that it develops hot spots inside the motor. That is why the pressure is regulated before it enters, and temp is controlled with the exit speed of the water. As I have it setup now, I leave the ball valve on the exit line wide open. When I was in Needles a few weeks back and the water was a lot colder then I usually run, I closed the valve some to bring the water temp up. Where I usually boat, and when I usually boat, I can leave the exit valve wide open and have no problems.
HBjet:)

[Taylorman]

What could possibly let go that would allow more water into a boat that is floating (not running since something has let go) and the bildge pump could not keep up with it? Just curious... I know if your intake cracks or you have hull failure, you could have large amounts of water entering the boat that a bildge wouldn't be able to keep up with, but those cases a ball valve wouldn't help at all.
Hm...
HBjet
I think he meant if the water line in the boat going to the engine broke you could shut off the water from the pump with a ball valve.

[tahitijet]

I think he meant if the water line in the boat going to the engine broke you could shut off the water from the pump with a ball valve.
exactly if a line were to break or you somehow developed a leak in the cooling system the ball valve can be shut off.. other then that it stays wide open and the operating temp is controlled by the ball valve leaving the motor.
the differance between regulating the water and using a bypass is your regulator has to restrict flow to achieve say 20psi of preasure. It only allows whatever volume of water that can pass through it's orifice at that psi. Which could lead to the possibility of hot spots and may never completly fill the block. A bypass reacts to total system preasure like a thermostat it is going to allow the motor and lines etc to completly fill with water once there is enough water in the motor to reach the set psi (i set mine at 25) it opens and only dumps the excess preasure overboard.
it's not the only way to do it.. just to me seemed the safest since i didn't want to run a thermo kit. my motor came plumbed like yours and it's my understanding most boats originally came with nothing but direct plumbing.

[HBjet]

the differance between regulating the water and using a bypass is your regulator has to restrict flow to achieve say 20psi of preasure. It only allows whatever volume of water that can pass through it's orifice at that psi. Which could lead to the possibility of hot spots and may never completly fill the block.
At 20psi you are not going to develop hot spots. The water going to a garden hose can be around 40psi if not more. If someone is worried about a hose breaking at 30psi or below, then you better change all of your hoses. I have a hose between my pump and my regulater so that hose is getting the full pressure from the pump (up to 300psi) and it has never leaked.
I understand the idea, but I have never hear of anyones boat going to the bottom of the lake due to a hose breaking and them not being able to shut off the water from the 1/2" line that come off the pump.
Whatever works though.
HBjet

[HBjet]

I think he meant if the water line in the boat going to the engine broke you could shut off the water from the pump with a ball valve.
If the water is regulated and the line/hose still broke, then it was certainly over due for new hoses IMO.
HBjet:)

[460 jus getn it]

I have ran 2 years with no pressure regulator. Never had a problem with water in the oil.

[Taylorman]

If the water is regulated and the line/hose still broke, then it was certainly over due for new hoses IMO.
HBjet:)
Your right. Mine will never break.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/vidrinek/Boat/DCP_6807.jpg

[Devilman]

I have ran 2 years with no pressure regulator. Never had a problem with water in the oil.
No pressure regulator here either. Mine does have a ball valve between the pump & the engine, though. I put it there when I was re-assembling my boat, wanted to put it in the water to check for leaks around the pump & stuff. Its got a smaller inside diameter, so even with it fully opened, I guess it restricts it enough, no blown gaskets, no milky oil, etc... I dunno, maybe the planets just happened to align & I've been lucky with it. :rollside:

[ERV JR]

Would It Be Possible To Run A Regulator For A Motor Home Or Travel Trailer ? Since It Doesent Have A Bypass Or Is The Bybass Needed To Keep Enough Voloume Of Water Flowing

[460 jus getn it]

No pressure regulator here either. Mine does have a ball valve between the pump & the engine, though. I put it there when I was re-assembling my boat, wanted to put it in the water to check for leaks around the pump & stuff. Its got a smaller inside diameter, so even with it fully opened, I guess it restricts it enough, no blown gaskets, no milky oil, etc... I dunno, maybe the planets just happened to align & I've been lucky with it. :rollside:Yep, and i dont play in changing anytime soon.

[Nucking futs]

when your running a bit more power than stock, you need to run a bypass. Just ask FourQ. He blew a freeze plug right out of the block running with no bypass in just a hit of the throttle for about 5 seconds. Filled up the bilge and shorted out the msd. I don't run a bypass in my cruiser but Im dumping all the water throgh the lightning headers at all times.
Bypass valves are just another fail safe and it works well.

[pw_Tony]

I think I need that regulator. I've changed head gaskets a couple times, they were fine. And tried manifiold gaskets, they were fine. I just put a ball valve on mine but it blew the hose off the back. I'm going to straight mount it like the on in that picture. I am almost positive that the regulator will fix my water in the oil problem. I dunno until I waste money and try it right

[FOURQ]

when your running a bit more power than stock, you need to run a bypass. Just ask FourQ. He blew a freeze plug right out of the block running with no bypass in just a hit of the throttle for about 5 seconds. Filled up the bilge and shorted out the msd. I don't run a bypass in my cruiser but Im dumping all the water throgh the lightning headers at all times.
Bypass valves are just another fail safe and it works well.
shit I wish it was a 5 second hit it was more like 2.. I have never ran a regulator nor did I think I needed one till that event. now I am a firm believer in them with tight pumps and hi HP. if your running a stock pump and engine I think you can get away with it but if its not then I would seriously consider it.
I ordered the one like HBJET's and it seems to be a nice piece

[BrendellaJet]

shit I wish it was a 5 second hit it was more like 2.. I have never ran a regulator nor did I think I needed one till that event. now I am a firm believer in them with tight pumps and hi HP. if your running a stock pump and engine I think you can get away with it but if its not then I would seriously consider it.
I ordered the one like HBJET's and it seems to be a nice piece
There are several people running just as much power if not more with just the regulator...Could be something different about your setup that compounded your problem...?

[HBjet]

I ordered the one like HBJET's and it seems to be a nice piece
It should work great for you. I was a firm believer of the screen in there too, but I had stuff block the screen before causing the motor to get too hot. So a few years back I took it out and have never had a clog since.
HBjet

[FuelInMyVeins82]

HB New model regulator looks nice but might be hard to mount

[superdave013]

If the water is regulated and the line/hose still broke, then it was certainly over due for new hoses IMO.
HBjet:)
yeah but you know how it goes. run it till it fails. I never had any type of regulator in my jet way back when. It was plumbed with 5/8 heater hose. Split more then one in that boat. They fill up quick too.

[Nucking futs]

There are several people running just as much power if not more with just the regulator...Could be something different about your setup that compounded your problem...?
He didnt have a regulator... so whats your question??
He will now after that happened. Guess you didnt read it right.

[BrendellaJet]

He didnt have a regulator... so whats your question??
He will now after that happened. Guess you didnt read it right.
You are right. My bad.

[HBjet]

yeah but you know how it goes. run it till it fails. I never had any type of regulator in my jet way back when. It was plumbed with 5/8 heater hose. Split more then one in that boat. They fill up quick too.
SPAM, your just trying to sell more hoses Dave! haha, just kidding.
Well, I do not think heater hose is mean't to be used in jets. I say everyone should go to Sweet Performance and get some nice braided hose for their water systems and call it a decade!
HBjet:)

[wolfie]

He didnt have a regulator... so whats your question??
He will now after that happened. Guess you didnt read it right.
I think that he just pissed himself when he felt all that HP and blamed the freezeplugs..:D :D :D :D :D
Just kidding FourQ.

[ck7684]

I had a the main hose right off the pump bust on me and yea, it fills things up with water FAST!!! I had no idea what had occured, just that the back end was sagging and things were beginning to feel sluggish. I looked back and there was water up to the front of the engine cover, so I headed toward shore ASAP!! Luckily I was waiting for the landing to open up at the time so I was pretty close and made it to shallow water. The engine took a gulp too when it shut down. I ended up replacing all of my hoses with the same stuff they use for hydralic lines on garbage trucks. I believe it'll handle quite a bit of pressure (but it doesnt look as nice as the braided stuff)
Anyways, when it happens, it's quick. I would have liked to have had a shut off valve in there to stop the water from coming in...

[tahitijet]

At 20psi you are not going to develop hot spots. The water going to a garden hose can be around 40psi if not more. If someone is worried about a hose breaking at 30psi or below, then you better change all of your hoses. I have a hose between my pump and my regulater so that hose is getting the full pressure from the pump (up to 300psi) and it has never leaked.
I understand the idea, but I have never hear of anyones boat going to the bottom of the lake due to a hose breaking and them not being able to shut off the water from the 1/2" line that come off the pump.
Whatever works though.
HBjet
not saying your wrong or your way isn't right. Just that i feel safer with the way i have it. Like you i have alot of money in my motor and would rather error to the side of caution and overdue it then not.
your way you adjust incoming water psi to adjust temp. Your regulator stops all water then only allows the volume it can flow to pass at your preset psi. The volume most regulators will flow is typically far less then the 1/2" system is capable of.
my way I adjust temp by slowing or speeding up the exit flow of water but the bypass assures maximum volume at all times and instead of restricting incoming flows just diverts the water the motor does not need and keeps the motor from seeing those high psi numbers at WOT..
The 2 ways accomplish the same end goal and maintain water temp. I just don't like the idea of restricting incoming water.
now I have no clue on this but perhaps the ball valve is not needed on the inlet but if you were to have a failure in a hose/fitting/regulator what have you wouldn't the water siphon in while you float since the hole in the pump is below the water line? I'm under the assumption that it would and thast why i have it. just in case. I run all steelbraided so failure is not likely but what if????

[HBjet]

not saying your wrong or your way isn't right. Just that i feel safer with the way i have it. Like you i have alot of money in my motor and would rather error to the side of caution and overdue it then not.
your way you adjust incoming water psi to adjust temp. Your regulator stops all water then only allows the volume it can flow to pass at your preset psi. The volume most regulators will flow is typically far less then the 1/2" system is capable of.
my way I adjust temp by slowing or speeding up the exit flow of water but the bypass assures maximum volume at all times and instead of restricting incoming flows just diverts the water the motor does not need and keeps the motor from seeing those high psi numbers at WOT..
The 2 ways accomplish the same end goal and maintain water temp. I just don't like the idea of restricting incoming water.
now I have no clue on this but perhaps the ball valve is not needed on the inlet but if you were to have a failure in a hose/fitting/regulator what have you wouldn't the water siphon in while you float since the hole in the pump is below the water line? I'm under the assumption that it would and thast why i have it. just in case. I run all steelbraided so failure is not likely but what if????
I do not adjust the temp of my motor at the regulator. The regulator does one thing and that is to keep a set inlet pressure of water. 26psi is plenty of water to fill the water system and cool the motor. I even have a garden hose that is modified on one end with a -10 female AN fitting so when I run the boat on the trailer, I hook the hose up before the regulator and all I need is a half turn. The only way I adjust temp is with the exit valve. They way I can slow the water exiting the motor to increase the temp or speed up the water exiting to lower the temp. All while maintaining a consistent inlet psi.
What ever works for anyone is great. Just stating what has worked for over 5 years and no busted hoses or overheating. Motor runs a consistent 125 degrees all summer.
HBjet:)

[FOURQ]

I think that he just pissed himself when he felt all that HP and blamed the freezeplugs..:D :D :D :D :D
Just kidding FourQ.
no Dave thats why I lifted .....lol I didnt have enough temp in the engine yet to hold it and thats a good thing it could have been alot worse.. shit a $300 fix is better than recovering the boat from the bottom..

[bp]

What ever works for anyone is great. Just stating what has worked for over 5 years and no busted hoses or overheating. Motor runs a consistent 125 degrees all summer.
HBjet:)
ya goof, your engine IS NOT 125 degrees; the WATER leaving the engine is 125 degrees... :rolleyes:
carry on...

[pw_Tony]

I had a the main hose right off the pump bust on me and yea, it fills things up with water FAST!!! I had no idea what had occured, just that the back end was sagging and things were beginning to feel sluggish. I looked back and there was water up to the front of the engine cover, so I headed toward shore ASAP!! Luckily I was waiting for the landing to open up at the time so I was pretty close and made it to shallow water. The engine took a gulp too when it shut down. I ended up replacing all of my hoses with the same stuff they use for hydralic lines on garbage trucks. I believe it'll handle quite a bit of pressure (but it doesnt look as nice as the braided stuff)
Anyways, when it happens, it's quick. I would have liked to have had a shut off valve in there to stop the water from coming in...
Haha I feel your pain, happened to me about a month ago. Totally scary...

[Konabud]

I had a the main hose right off the pump bust on me and yea, it fills things up with water FAST!!! I had no idea what had occured, just that the back end was sagging and things were beginning to feel sluggish. I looked back and there was water up to the front of the engine cover, so I headed toward shore ASAP!! Luckily I was waiting for the landing to open up at the time so I was pretty close and made it to shallow water. The engine took a gulp too when it shut down. I ended up replacing all of my hoses with the same stuff they use for hydralic lines on garbage trucks. I believe it'll handle quite a bit of pressure (but it doesnt look as nice as the braided stuff)
Anyways, when it happens, it's quick. I would have liked to have had a shut off valve in there to stop the water from coming in...
Had almost the same thing happen to me too. I bought the boat a couple of years ago (first jet boat) and the guy I bought it from told me all jet boats leaked water around the packing and to be sure and run the (manual) bilge pump every hour or so. Well the starter froze on me (probably from being under water so much) about the third trip out and when I pulled the motor to change it I found the inlet hose at the T cracked half way around. I would have never found it unless I pulled the motor because it's undernieth and the hoses didn't really look that bad. I replaced all the hoses with 300 PSI air hose and added the bypass, a shut off valve, a top mout starter and a auto bilge pump. I just figured that the bypass would be easier on the whole system. I like having the warm fuzzy when I'm out on the water.

[HBjet]

ya goof, your engine IS NOT 125 degrees; the WATER leaving the engine is 125 degrees... :rolleyes:
carry on...
Wrong wording on my part, but I think ya know what I mean't...
HBjet:)

[bp]

Wrong wording on my part, but I think ya know what I mean't...
HBjet:)
yah, i know randy, but some people on here may not. this has been hashed and rehashed on the forums so many times, i've lost count...

[thatguy]

You know, there is more than 10 ways to do it. Everyone does what works for them. But as I read this something keeps popping up in my thinking.
Restricting inlet water automatically makes a guy worry, but is it really a worry?
You definitly don't want to torch it by starving it. BUT, The only pressure source is upstream, the jet. No matter how little volume you feed the engine, it WILL, eventually, fill up the water jackets. At least to the level of the thermostat outlet. Heat expansion aside, there is nothing "sucking" the water out of the engine, so how can the engine not be full if there is at least a small amount of consistant feed?
Not trying to argue, I am a believer in a well engineered water system, as seen on this thread.
But it seems that saying "it may never fill the engine" is a misconception. ANY amount of feed will eventually fill it.
Tommy:idea:

[cyclone]

Regulator or bypass system...you need something in there to control the pressure. when i installed my new motor i fired it up cruised out to the middle of the lake and with a water pressure gauge plumbed into the cooling system i saw 60psi block pressure at just 3,000 rpm.
the jet pump puts out a lot of pressure so please install something to lower it.
with that said, i have a regulator without a bypass and it keeps my pressure at 22 psi during cruising speeds and about 25 at WOT. I have no restriction on the exit line (-10 into the motor through the water pump jackets and -10 out of the thermostat housing) and the water temp (not engine temp) reads about 110 degrees all day long.
it works for me.

[wolfie]

no Dave thats why I lifted .....lol I didnt have enough temp in the engine yet to hold it and thats a good thing it could have been alot worse.. shit a $300 fix is better than recovering the boat from the bottom..
No need to explain. I was just trying to stir some shit.:D :D :D :D ...LOL
I know you, the bro, and the old man don't fear speed!!!!

[Taylorman]

Got a regulator on the way. Im getting about 25 lbs of block pressure at wot. No problems, just don't want any.

[4trax]

Got a regulator on the way. Im getting about 25 lbs of block pressure at wot. No problems, just don't want any.
Here, I found this might be of some help.
http://www.performancejet.com/techtalk.htm

[Taylorman]

Got the regulator in today and its almost in just need another bulkhead fitting.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/vidrinek/Boat/DCP_6848.jpg

[Squirtcha?]

I had a the main hose right off the pump bust on me and yea, it fills things up with water FAST!!! I had no idea what had occured, just that the back end was sagging and things were beginning to feel sluggish. I looked back and there was water up to the front of the engine cover, so I headed toward shore ASAP!!
Anyways, when it happens, it's quick. I would have liked to have had a shut off valve in there to stop the water from coming in...
Had the same thing happen to me at Parker one summer right after I bought the boat. River was at full flow and there were tuna boats and wake board boats everywhere. Getting tossed like a bitch. Had to keep into the throttle pretty hard just to maintain position, much less to get to shore. Needless to say the harder ya gas it, the more water goes in the bilge.
Ended up making it to shore and stole my bilge pump hose to use for the water supply (temporarily) just to get back to camp.
Then before the next trip I changed out all the lines to stainless and put a shutoff valve on it.
I don't run a bypass or regulator and haven't had a problem. Then again.......I don't have all the much hp and I might just be lucky.
Your new setup looks tits T man. You did some nice work there (as always).

[oldbuck40]

Got the regulator in today and its almost in just need another bulkhead fitting.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/vidrinek/Boat/DCP_6848.jpg
Hey Kevin i think you will be happy with that set up! it works good on mine!

[Devilman]

Hey Kevin i think you will be happy with that set up! it works good on mine!
"Works good" or "used to work good"?:confused:
:D

[oldbuck40]

"Works good" or "used to work good"?:confused:
:D
works better than yours!:D

[Devilman]

works better than yours!:D
How the hell would you know? Your boat hasn't run since what, 2004 or so? :jawdrop: :confused: :D

[oldbuck40]

How the hell would you know? Your boat hasn't run since what, 2004 or so? :jawdrop: :confused: :D
it ran in Feb this year!:D :D :D :D

[Devilman]

it ran in Feb this year!:D :D :D :D
But only for 10 minutes or so. Think it has to run longer than that to make a proper judgement. :rolleyes: :D

[oldbuck40]

But only for 10 minutes or so. Think it has to run longer than that to make a proper judgement. :rolleyes: :D hey were talking about the valve!!! not numreous engines here! oh and it was on there when you were playing boat biatch for me too lmao!:D

[bulldawg art]

I am going to try HBjets pressure reducer set up less the gate valve. Prior to the reducer my boat had a ball valve at the pump wide open. I will eventually add a gate valve...that is as soon as I can get the fitting off of the thermo housing..frickin thing is really tight. I adjusted the reducer to the lowest pressure.

[Crossbow_CA]

I have seen several posts mentioning restricting the flow before the water exits the boat. What if you dont run headers? Logs and Snails dont really have a place to restrict the exit flow. Would you restrict the flow off the pump in this case? That is how mine is set up. I have been running it wide open so far but the temp never gets above 120 unless I shut off the motor. Even then it comes back down pretty quick even at idle.

[tahitijet]

I have seen several posts mentioning restricting the flow before the water exits the boat. What if you dont run headers? Logs and Snails dont really have a place to restrict the exit flow. Would you restrict the flow off the pump in this case? That is how mine is set up. I have been running it wide open so far but the temp never gets above 120 unless I shut off the motor. Even then it comes back down pretty quick even at idle.
i would never restrict water flow before the motor.. I'm not sure how logs plumb but maybee a thermo kit is the right application or maybee restrictin the water when it exits the motor before the logs? I'm sure somone familiar with that plumbing can chime in.

[Taylorman]

Went out yesterday. I started with the regulator set at the highest bypass pressure. I thought i would have to lower it some but my pressure never got above 15 psi. Seems to work pretty good. Before i would see 25 to 30 psi at wot. Had my 5 yr old with me so i did not open it up. Looks like that was a good investment.

[Legal Chemistry]

Taylor, where did you order your pressure relief from? Do you know the part number by chance? thanks
JS

[Taylorman]

Rex Marine
SC 100

[oldbuck40]

Rex Marine
SC 100
How much$ for the valve?

[Taylorman]

How much$ for the valve?
$75.
Not as much as the ss fitting i bought and had sent ups next day so i could have it for the weekend.

[thmper321]

At 20psi you are not going to develop hot spots. The water going to a garden hose can be around 40psi if not more. If someone is worried about a hose breaking at 30psi or below, then you better change all of your hoses. I have a hose between my pump and my regulater so that hose is getting the full pressure from the pump (up to 300psi) and it has never leaked.
I understand the idea, but I have never hear of anyones boat going to the bottom of the lake due to a hose breaking and them not being able to shut off the water from the 1/2" line that come off the pump.
Whatever works though.
HBjet
If you don't know that the hose broke in time it could fill up the boat real fast. My ex father in law had that happen at Mead and almost sunk the boat. He didn't know it happend until a wave of water came up to the front seats from the back.

[oldbuck40]

$75.
Not as much as the ss fitting i bought and had sent ups next day so i could have it for the weekend.
DAMN!!!! and to think i posted this on another site and you read it but didnt buy it at the place i was talking about.:rolleyes:

[Devilman]

DAMN!!!! and to think i posted this on another site and you read it but didnt buy it at the place i was talking about.:rolleyes:
Dang, lost your commission, huh? :D

[Taylorman]

DAMN!!!! and to think i posted this on another site and you read it but didnt buy it at the place i was talking about.:rolleyes:
The one i bought is rated at 10-50 lbs. The one you told me about was much higher pressure.

[oldbuck40]

The one i bought is rated at 10-50 lbs. The one you told me about was much higher pressure.maybe you were looking at the wrong one lol is yours a Watts brand?

[oldbuck40]

this one here!

[Legal Chemistry]

this one here!
OldBuck, which one is this???

[Devilman]

OldBuck, which one is this???
A damn tiny one.... LOL :D

[Taylorman]

this one here!
That one is rated at 50-175 psi. The one Rex has is 10-50 psi.

[Legal Chemistry]

That one is rated at 50-175 psi. The one Rex has is 10-50 psi.
Rex it is! 50-175 ain't gonna do a lot of help in there...

[oldbuck40]

OldBuck, which one is this???
Grainger # 1x624 for 1/2 npt and #2x318 for 3/4 npt

[oldbuck40]

That one is rated at 50-175 psi. The one Rex has is 10-50 psi.
maybe so but you didnt read between the lines as of what Garry was saying! screw it out till it stops and it will be fine. :D i give up:rolleyes:

[Taylorman]

maybe so but you didnt read between the lines as of what Garry was saying! screw it out till it stops and it will be fine. :D i give up:rolleyes:
I guess i did not read between the lines. I saw 50 psi and i figured that would make my motor explode. Now i ran mine all the way screwed in at the max pressure of 50 psi and my block pressure was 10 psi. Oh well, whats money? I'll make more.

[oldbuck40]

I guess i did not read between the lines. I saw 50 psi and i figured that would make my motor explode. Now i ran mine all the way screwed in at the max pressure of 50 psi and my block pressure was 10 psi. Oh well, whats money? I'll make more.:D :D :D ohhh well! hey at least ya got one on it now and you can rest assured it aint gonna blow!:D

[Taylorman]

When you guys going to the Brazos river?

[oldbuck40]

When you guys going to the Brazos river?
You mean the Brazos flooded swamp! lol i havent a clue! no one has brought it up yet.