Prop nut

[Fired Up]

I ordered a new aquamet propshaft and it arrived without a nut. My old propshaft had a coarse threaded nut. The aquamet has fine threads. Should the nut be stainless, ny-lock nut or a special type of nut. Cotter pin steel too? Thanks...

[DUCKY]

The best way is a brass nylock nut with a stainless "an" washer. A stainless nut will work, but you must use anti-seize and that stuff gets messy. If you run a nylock nut you don't need a cotter pin, but if you choose to use one it needs to be stainless.

[pgf127rt]

A cotter key is required in most racing associations.

[DansBlown73Nordic]

I use a cotter pin with a Ny-lock nut. You don't want to loose your nuts!!!!! eek! wink

[DUCKY]

That might hurt a little. And yes, IHBA and APBA as well as others do require a cotter pin. But if your not racing, I don't feel it is necessary.

[Rexone]

We have these nuts and cotter pins if you need, both are stainless. And yes make sure you use anti-sieze.

[Fired Up]

Thanks Mike,
Found them this afternoon on the site. Should've ordered them with my Temp gauge and saved the shipping.

[superdave013]

DUCKY:
That might hurt a little. And yes, IHBA and APBA as well as others do require a cotter pin. But if your not racing, I don't feel it is necessary.A .35 item that could save a 700.00+ prop. I would think that's necessary myself.

[ACCEPTENCE]

superdave013:
DUCKY:
That might hurt a little. And yes, IHBA and APBA as well as others do require a cotter pin. But if your not racing, I don't feel it is necessary.A .35 item that could save a 700.00+ prop. I would think that's necessary myself.

[ACCEPTENCE]

superdave013:
DUCKY:
That might hurt a little. And yes, IHBA and APBA as well as others do require a cotter pin. But if your not racing, I don't feel it is necessary.
A .35 item that could save a 700.00+ prop. I would think that's necessary myself.Ummmmm Duh...leme think, yep I think I'll run a cotter pin too. Of course it's necessary. Do you suppose the machinest put the hole there cause he had a extra drill bit laying around and wanted to see if it was sharp??????????????????????????????

[DUCKY]

All I meant was that the chance of a nylock nut coming loose and falling off, and then actually losing the prop, is slim to none. Someone stole the prop nut off my brother's DiMarco and he ran it a full day like that and never lost the prop!

[schiada96]

I just use a nylock. Knock on wood!! Most of my friends run that way too. At the races yesterday I saw a cool idea, a bullet shaped cover for the prop nut, very cool I'm going to make one.

[GofastRacer]

All I use is a nylock, have yet to have one back off, I do replace them as the "nylock" gets worn!!, if you use a regular nut then, you had better have a key or you will lose it!!..

[Sangster]

We always run both Nylock & cotter pin...I,ve had A Nylock back off to the cotter pin and luckly the prop stayed in place....Good reason to run both.... :rolleyes:

[GofastRacer]

That's why I replace them when they feel soft going on!!....... eek!

[Bagpipes]

Sangster I have seen were the prop has moved forward.And the nut stayed.Make you think the nut backed off.Always ckeck prop with out key way first. Then mark it so that you know prop is were it belongs. :cool:

[Sangster]

GofastRacer:
That's why I replace them when they feel soft going on!!....... eek! This Nylock had jest been put on the day before...

[Sangster]

Bagpipes:
Sangster I have seen were the prop has moved forward.And the nut stayed.Make you think the nut backed off.Always ckeck prop with out key way first. Then mark it so that you know prop is were it belongs. :cool: We also lap our props to the shaft for a better fit... It's smart to ck them without the key like you say... Cheap Insurance......John.. you guys been out lately......

[GofastRacer]

Sangster:
GofastRacer:
That's why I replace them when they feel soft going on!!....... eek! This Nylock had jest been put on the day before...Wow, that's hard to believe a brand new nut would back off as hard as they go on the first time??!, you would have to have some mighty slick lubricant on it to do that!, still hard to believe it would back off!!.... :confused: :confused:

[Bagpipes]

Sangster we been on the trailer.Jetgu has been busy with his new boat.When he get back from Firebird.I will see if he wants to try some more.I fill we are real close.If it is right we will try Ming in Nov.

[Sangster]

Bagpipes, did Tony get a new Canyon..... :confused: .. :confused:

[Sangster]

GofastRacer:
Sangster:
GofastRacer:
That's why I replace them when they feel soft going on!!....... eek! This Nylock had jest been put on the day before...Wow, that's hard to believe a brand new nut would back off as hard as they go on the first time??!, you would have to have some mighty slick lubricant on it to do that!, still hard to believe it would back off!!.... :confused: :confused: As a matter of fact, the shaft,prop & nut were new..Maybe the anti-sieze had something to do with it..Irregardless, I'll keep using the cotter pin..... wink wink
[ October 29, 2002, 04:29 PM: Message edited by: Sangster ]

[GofastRacer]

I hear ya!!.... :) :)

[Fired Up]

Okay,
I'm clear on the SS Nylock nut, SS cotter pin, what about the key? Stainless also or just steel. Are all keyways on propshafts a standard width? Still learning....still asking. Thanks guys!

[Rexone]

We use T316 stainless. I've heard of guys using like 4140 steel too. To my knowledge they're all 1/4" keys.

[GofastRacer]

Rexone:
We use T316 stainless. I've heard of guys using like 4140 steel too. To my knowledge they're all 1/4" keys.I don't know why you would want to use a stainless nut or key??... :confused:
Those are two good questions, when you find out, let us know!!.. eek!

[Alcoleholic]

Its not rocket science frown

[Rexone]

GofastRacer:
Rexone:
We use T316 stainless. I've heard of guys using like 4140 steel too. To my knowledge they're all 1/4" keys.I don't know why you would want to use a stainless nut or key??... :confused:
Those are two good questions, when you find out, let us know!!.. eek! Well, T-316 & 4140 are both very tough material. I like tough material for keys. Use any type of soft material for the key and a boat with serious horsepower will cut it in half over time.
On the stainless nut...tough too and no corrooooooosion to deal with.
[ October 29, 2002, 09:17 PM: Message edited by: Rexone ]

[Rexone]

I can't believe we've talked about this prop nut 28 times now... LOL

[Fired Up]

You're right mike. So long a thread for so small a part. Yet its an important part just like the Jesus nut on a helicopter.

[Rexone]

Not discounting it's importance, just laughing a little... :D

[superdave013]

Rexone:
I can't believe we've talked about this prop nut 28 times now... LOLI can't believe that people don't put a cotter pin in myself. That's what I'm laughing about.

[Infomaniac]

Rexone:
I just have 2 questions
So when dog food is new and improved tasting, who tests it?... and
You know that indestructible black box that is used on airplanes? Why don't they make the whole plane out of that stuff?
1. Am not sure but have heard that Vagisil has a new and improved taste.
2. Because the black box is actually bright orange. The plane would just be too ugly.

[Rexone]

Infomaniac:
Rexone:
I just have 2 questions
So when dog food is new and improved tasting, who tests it?... and
You know that indestructible black box that is used on airplanes? Why don't they make the whole plane out of that stuff?
1. Am not sure but have heard that Vagisil has a new and improved taste.
2. Because the black box is actually bright orange. The plane would just be too ugly.Well I'm very happy to have that cleared up , LMAO :D

[Rexone]

Fired Up:
You're right mike. So long a thread for so small a part. Yet its an important part just like the Jesus nut on a helicopter.I know a few things about boats and nothing about helicopters. What the hell is a Jesus nut? Is that a nut you just pray to Jesus if it comes off? :confused:

[GofastRacer]

On the stainless nut...tough too and no corrooooooosion to deal with.[/QB][/QUOTE]
Just had to ask this!, what corrosion???....
http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/8d39735d/bc/Yahoo!+Photo+Album/Prop+Nut.jpg?BCQh459Aa2eufpNe
I know, I'm an asshole sometimes!! :D

[schiada96]

That nut could be 18-8 stainless and could be mildly magnetic and corrode not the best for a marine app if you used a 316 ss nut it wouldn't corrode.
I too am an asshole some times
:D

[V-Drive Tom]

NO stainless nut needed!! Not worth the headache! when people don't know to use antiseize and be smart about the feel of things,its just not worth it. The corrosion is not much of a factor.
Steel nylon nut,lube threads,with cotter pin.
Hardened and ground key stock.(yes I stock it)
Screwdriver material is hard but has too large of a radius on corners. TOM..

[V-Drive Tom]

One more thing! I can be a TROPHY ASSHOLE!! :D TOM..

[CircleJerk]

WHOOOPPEE. 39 posts for a prop nut! I learned and learned somm mure. Too much learning for one hour! If I can just member soo much!! Let's see Hows i DId........ Prop nut is stainless, cotter pin is also, antisneeze on da nut?? TOO much. Ok here is what a poor fella does. Steel castle nut from a 55 Cheavy wheel hub spindle,cause I have an old fine thread shaft,then the steel cotta pin[cheap hardware one} goes between the littl groovies. When the prop goes on too far with about 70 pounds of torque then I's uses shim washers{steel cheap ones or B&J input shaft hardened ones if you have them}. If ya cant afford antisneeze use VAsoLine on da prop insides and the tapered part of the shaft! This my friends is waterproof and NACL risistunt. DA,da that thing mentioned about valve lapping compound is also what I do to the prop innerds and shaft. Each time I do this is without the key of course. Spin that blade thing like a ______ and this removes any small burrs and allows the blade to fully seat on the taper. They boys and grirls, lube dat shaft BEFORE blade install!! If you dont want to rob your Cheavy of its wheel nut than go to da farm tracter store, they got um! Cheap...13cents. Dont buy the vasoline there cause bag balm isnt water pruef. One last tip or bull, Keep a wood block just the right thickness with the prop puller to wedge between the blade and the bottom to prevent blade rotation whilest torquing prop nut. You can use a tool bit from the machine shop supply for an indestructable key if ya saved enough from above. Or just use the cheap stuff cause ya probably dont make enough horespower ta hurt nothin anyway! This works for the.....JERKenstein..dont mind tellin my secrets to swell guys and gals like you all...... :cool: wink

[V-Drive Tom]

Like ALWAYS..YOU over did it..

[HM]

Don't play with your prop nuts too much, you can go blind! :D
Personally, I have had more trouble with a loose nut behind the wheel over the prop nut. Does a cotter pin work in this situation? wink
And what happens when you bust a nut? Is that effective for anti-seize? Or is it too salty and adds to the corosion problems? :D

[Sangster]

I'm gonna go check my shaft right now.... eek! eek!

[GofastRacer]

schiada96:
That nut could be 18-8 stainless and could be mildly magnetic and corrode not the best for a marine app if you used a 316 ss nut it wouldn't corrode.
I too am an asshole some times
:D Ok then, from one asshole to another! :D :D FYI, that is a 100% plain ole steel nut, that's the only type I would use!!... wink
[ October 30, 2002, 10:55 AM: Message edited by: GofastRacer ]

[Blown Olds]

OK GUYS I NEED TO CHECK MY NUT, WERE IS IT ON MY BERKLEY? :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

[superdave013]

Blown Olds:
OK GUYS I NEED TO CHECK MY NUT, WERE IS IT ON MY BERKLEY? :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: YOUR NUT IS WAY BEHIND US V-DRIVERS NUTS! :D

[Blown Olds]

IS THAT A SLAM ON MY JET?

[superdave013]

Blown Olds:
IS THAT A SLAM ON MY JET?Naw, it's a slam on that olds! haha just kidding with ya bro. Shooting ya 5 stars for being a good sport. :D
Hey, can you post a pic of that engine. I have not seen very many blown olds.

[MikeC]

FYI, you may want to check out this link......
http://www.users.qwest.net/~bergeronaz2/
MikeC

[Infomaniac]

MikeC:
FYI, you may want to check out this link......
http://www.users.qwest.net/~bergeronaz2/
MikeCIt's about time they got into this century. I know Phil does not like computers.

[126driver]

HolyMoly:
And what happens when you bust a nut?You usually need to kick it on the couch for a few weeks drinking beer and watching NASCAR reruns. wink

[126driver]

superdave013:
Blown Olds:
OK GUYS I NEED TO CHECK MY NUT, WERE IS IT ON MY BERKLEY? :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: YOUR NUT IS WAY BEHIND US V-DRIVERS NUTS! :D You don't need any nuts if you drive a jet boat. wink :D :p

[Blown Olds]

WHATS ALL THE M*THA*****N ANGER OR JABS ON THE JET SHIT. YOU V-DRIVE GUYS SUPPOSE TO BETTER. :mad:

[126driver]

Sorry Blown Olds, just messin' with you. wink After you've been here a while you'll see that we goof back and forth with the jet guys. All in fun. Hell, when we aren't messin' with the jet guys, it's us flattie guys against the hydro guys. :D It's all good. A lot of us have owned jets too. I have - had a ball with it. Kick back and have fun - shooting you a five. :D :D

[Morg]

126Driver
Speaking of giving someone a bad time. You are leaving for PHX soon.. rite?
Morg,

[126driver]

I LIVE in Phoenix :D But we won't have the boat at the track until tomorrow night. :rolleyes:

[Blown Olds]

HEY SORRY I WAS A LITTLE TICKED. CHECK OUT MY AVITAR AINT IT THE SHIT. :p :p

[Morg]

126driver:
I LIVE in Phoenix :D But we won't have the boat at the track until tomorrow night. :rolleyes: Good to here you are going to make the race. Tell Jerry G. I said howdy.
Good luck with the boat. Hope all the work pay's off.
Morg.

[Morg]

Blown Olds:
HEY SORRY I WAS A LITTLE TICKED. CHECK OUT MY AVITAR AINT IT THE SHIT. :p :p dat be the coolest jeter homey i ever seen.
You can roll w da v-d propies anytime

[Fired Up]

Mike,
The Jesus nut on the helicopter is the nut that IF it fails you will meet the man its named after. They hold the rotor blades on............ Thanks for all the good info guys. Us rookies learn alot here.

[Rexone]

by the way, I agree with VDrive Tom on the nut thing. Stainless isn't in any way essential. Unless extensive salt water perhaps. And yes not using anti-sieze on a stainless one is a problem although I'd make sure I used it on steel as well. We've just always used them and told people to use antisieze and haven't had problems. I have seen steel nuts though left on ski boats that don't come off for years pretty badly corroded. Race boats...not an issue cause they're off and on all the time. Should rename this thread "everything you always wanted to know about prop nuts and more". :D

[GofastRacer]

I think by now, we should all be thoughroly educated on this subject!!.... http://www.plauder-smilies.com/happy/roflmao.gif http://www.plauder-smilies.com/happy/roflmao.gif

[superdave013]

GofastRacer:
I think by now, we should all be thoughroly educated on this subject!!.... http://www.plauder-smilies.com/happy/roflmao.gif http://www.plauder-smilies.com/happy/roflmao.gifI'm still a little unclear on something here. :confused:
Could I just use the cotter pin and skip the nut? Hey, I could save some weight that way!! :D :cool: :D

[GofastRacer]

I'm still a little unclear on something here. :confused:
Could I just use the cotter pin and skip the nut? Hey, I could save some weight that way!! :D :cool: :D [/QB][/QUOTE]
Well, I thought we were all educated??? :D
I guess you could just use the pin if you really wanted to save that last ounce!! eek! I would not recommend it though because I don't think the pin is adequate to stop the prop from sliding off the shaft!!!..Personally, I would use the nut!!!.. I hope this clears things up for ya!! http://www.plauder-smilies.com/happy/xyxwave.gif http://www.plauder-smilies.com/happy/xyxwave.gif

[Rexone]

superdave013:
GofastRacer:
I think by now, we should all be thoughroly educated on this subject!!.... http://www.plauder-smilies.com/happy/roflmao.gif http://www.plauder-smilies.com/happy/roflmao.gifI'm still a little unclear on something here. :confused:
Could I just use the cotter pin and skip the nut? Hey, I could save some weight that way!! :D :cool: :D SD, no need for a nut or a cotter pin or a key for that matter. just weld the bastard on the shaft and be done with it. :D

[GofastRacer]

I love it!!..... http://www.plauder-smilies.com/jump.gif http://www.plauder-smilies.com/lol2.gif http://www.plauder-smilies.com/jump.gif

[superdave013]

Rexone:
SD, no need for a nut or a cotter pin or a key for that matter. just weld the bastard on the shaft and be done with it. :D [/b][/QUOTE]
The stinger on my mig won't reach under the boat that far. Can I just JB weld it on? Or do you think marine tex would work better.

[Sangster]

Alright, enough with the Nut shit already.... eek! eek!

[GofastRacer]

superdave013:
Rexone:
SD, no need for a nut or a cotter pin or a key for that matter. just weld the bastard on the shaft and be done with it. :D The stinger on my mig won't reach under the boat that far. Can I just JB weld it on? Or do you think marine tex would work better.[/b][/QUOTE]
Use JB man, you can't beat it!!, don't forget the cotter key though!!.. :D eek! :D eek! :D

[Rexone]

superdave013:
Rexone:
SD, no need for a nut or a cotter pin or a key for that matter. just weld the bastard on the shaft and be done with it. :D The stinger on my mig won't reach under the boat that far. Can I just JB weld it on? Or do you think marine tex would work better.[/b][/QUOTE]
SD, I wouldn't advise using JB on this. If the welder won't reach just drill (2) 1/4" holes through the prop hub and shaft and insert 1/4" grade 8 bolts with nylocs. This should hold it. The heads of the bolts and the nuts on the opposite side should balance out any turbulance created. I'd also take a 10 lb sledge and just slightly bend the threaded end of the prop shaft so if the 2 bolts do happen to snap off you won't lose the prop. Hope this helps with your project... :D

[RiverDave2]

Well in my adventures of learning about V-Drives I'd say I have the "prop nut" issue covered.
RD

[Infomaniac]

superdave013
Could I just use the cotter pin and skip the nut? Hey, I could save some weight. Not that I am trying to keep this thing going:
I was thinking 1.25 shaft, thread the inside of a 1" shaft prop and key the end of it. Great idea SD! No nuts required. Except maybe the driver.
[ October 31, 2002, 11:25 PM: Message edited by: Infomaniac ]

[Blown Olds]

I DON'T WANT TO START NOTHING BUT NOBODY TOLD WERE PROP NUT IS ON BERKELEY. eek! eek! eek!