I am desperate need of help.

[Dominator Scott]

Okay here is the deal. I recently bought a tunnel ram with dual Holley 600's for the BBF 460 and I am having a hell of a time tuning it in. (LEAN CONDITION)
The 460 is relatively stock to the best of my knowledge but may have a mild cam shaft. The only other modification is the Weiand tunnel ram and Hooker over transom headers. The carbs originally had 66 jets in the primaries and 67 jets in the secondaries with a 7.5 power valve which was too lean, so I upgraded the jets to 72's in the primaries and 75's in the secondaries with a 3.5 PV. I also installed a Holley 110gph mechanical fuel pump and installed 1/2" stainless braided fuel lines and pickup's. Fuel pressure is at 7psi,the timing is spot on at about 32 degrees,fuel filter is clean, but at 4600RPM's she stumbles and sputters from a lean condition. I have ordered rear metering blocks for the carbs and intend on jetting the snot out of it. 77's in the primaries and 83's in the secondaries but I just want to make sure I am on the right track.
I should add that jetting the carbs up,switch to the 3.5PV and new fuel pump has helped the lean condition but at 46ooRPM's she still falls off and sputters which sucks because I still have a 1/3 throttle left to go.
PLEASE HELP!!!!!!

[squirt'nmyload]

i had this same problem when i switched carbs....put 78's in the front and 80's in the back...got much better but problem still existed....took off the big spacer(2 or 3 in) that was on the new carb(didn't have one on before)..... problem went away

[Dominator Scott]

i had this same problem when i switched carbs....put 78's in the front and 80's in the back...got much better but problem still existed....took off the big spacer(2 or 3 in) that was on the new carb(didn't have one on before)..... problem went away
I assume you mean that you had carb spacers and then the tunnel ram under them? No carb spacers hear. It does however blow my mind that I am running lean with dual 600's when originally I was running an 800 double pump and a "Torker" intake and plug reading were about perfect.
I thinking it's gonna take stepping up from 72's to 77's in the primaries and from 75's to 83's or 84's in the secondaries on these carbs.:jawdrop: Here I thought dual carbs was gonna be too much for this engine. Boy was I wrong!!!!
So you guys think I am going in the right direction with bigger jets,or is there something I could be over looking causing the lean problem?

[squirt'nmyload]

I assume you mean that you had carb spacers and then the tunnel ram under them? No carb spacers hear. It does however blow my mind that I am running lean with dual 600's when originally I was running an 800 double pump and a "Torker" intake and plug reading were about perfect.
I thinking it's gonna take stepping up from 72's to 77's in the primaries and from 75's to 83's or 84's in the secondaries on these carbs.:jawdrop: Here I thought dual carbs was gonna be too much for this engine. Boy was I wrong!!!!
So you guys think I am going in the right direction with bigger jets,or is there something I could be over looking causing the lean problem?
i should've said that i didn't have a tunnel ram. went from a 750 vac sec. to a 850 dp that had a spacer on it.....i'm no expert but jet it up and see what happens!!! :)

[Dominator Scott]

i should've said that i didn't have a tunnel ram. went from a 750 vac sec. to a 850 dp that had a spacer on it.....i'm no expert but jet it up and see what happens!!! :)
Jetting the chit out of it was the only think I can think of considering I have checked or upgraded the entire fuel delivery system. I thought maybe it was ignition but it ran fine with no sputtering before the tunnel ram was installed.
Also there isn't any vacuum leaks that I can find because she purrs at 900RPM's and doesn't miss a beat.

[058]

Power valves do not increase or decrease fuel mixture, just the timing [vacume] when they will open. By switching to a 3.5 from a 7.5 that means the p/v will discharge extra fuel at 3.5" of manifold vacume. The 7.5 p/v will discharge extra fuel at 7.5" of manifold vacume. What controls the extra fuel from the p/vs opening is the power valve channel restriction [pvcr] These are the small holes you see when the p/v is removed. I suspect your lean condition is from the system itself. You say you installed 1/2" line, does that include an internal 1/2" tank pick up as well? Did you eliminate the tank check valve? Carbs do not know what engine they are on or do they care, they only respond to vacume and air flow. Jetting up will not cure your problem. You need to check fuel pressure at WOT and maximum load, my guess is the fuel pressure is dropping at WOT. The origional jetting should be close but I would jet up to 73-74 in the secondary side and leave the primary at 66.How old are the carbs? It could be they need to be rebuilt and have warped metering block surfaces on the main carb body. One more thing, are you running the Holley pressure regulator[s]? If so how many? one or two?

[Dominator Scott]

Power valves do not increase or decrease fuel mixture, just the timing [vacume] when they will open. By switching to a 3.5 from a 7.5 that means the p/v will discharge extra fuel at 3.5" of manifold vacume. The 7.5 p/v will discharge extra fuel at 7.5" of manifold vacume. What controls the extra fuel from the p/vs opening is the power valve channel restriction [pvcr] These are the small holes you see when the p/v is removed. I suspect your lean condition is from the system itself. You say you installed 1/2" line, does that include an internal 1/2" tank pick up as well? Did you eliminate the tank check valve? Carbs do not know what engine they are on or do they care, they only respond to vacume and air flow. Jetting up will not cure your problem. You need to check fuel pressure at WOT and maximum load, my guess is the fuel pressure is dropping at WOT. The origional jetting should be close but I would jet up to 73-74 in the secondary side and leave the primary at 66.How old are the carbs? It could be they need to be rebuilt and have warped metering block surfaces on the main carb body. One more thing, are you running the Holley pressure regulator[s]? If so how many? one or two?
Fuel pressure is at a constant 7lbs and no it isn't a Holley regulator. I believe it is a Aeroquip (1 regulator) and it came with the tunnel ram as did the carbs.
As for the tanks it appears these saddle tanks have 1/2 inch pickups in them because the original fittings were 1/2 inch on the tank side and tapered down to 3/8's on the fuel line side. Now it is 1/2 all the way through. As for the check valve I'm not sure if there is even is one in the tanks and if there is how do you get to it.(Pickup tubes are welded into the tanks and then the pickup itself threads in to it.)
I am at a higher jetting now than what you are recommending and she is still lean. I have talked to a couple people who have run tunnel rams before and was told not to be surprised if I need to jet into the high 70's on the primaries and low 80's jets in the secondaries. Also all bowl and metering block gaskets have been replaced on the carbs.

[QuickJet]

Check your float level and re-check the pressure with another gauge (just in case).
058 is dead on with the jetting. There is no need for those 600s to require that much jetting.

[Dominator Scott]

Check your float level and re-check the pressure with another gauge (just in case).
058 is dead on with the jetting. There is no need for those 600s to require that much jetting.
Rechecked float level on Saturday's run and it dead on. gauge is a brand new liquid filled gauge that I just bought. I will check it though.

[QuickJet]

What do the plugs look like? Are they pretty much uniform or are some darker than others.
Looks good by the way.
http://***boat.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=31368&d=1179777540

[058]

The tank check valve is a C.C. required deal for all top draw tanks. I would still go back and check fuel pressure at WOT and you must install the F.P. guage as close to the carbs as possible for an accurate reading. When you say the 460 is stock am I to assume it has the D3VE-A2A heads on it? If so then you might want to bump the total timing up to about 35-36 @ 3000-3200 rpms. The engine should have no problem handling that timing as the C/R is only about 8-8.5 to 1 depending on block deck height. I'd also set the initial timing to 15-18 deg without exceding the 36 total. One more thing, get rid of those 3.5 power valves as they may be closing at your maximum rpm leaning out your engine. 600 CFM carbs are IMO too small for a 460. Try a vacume guage under the carbs to check manifold vacume, if the vacume starts to rise as you approch your maximum rpm the power valves will close cutting off the fuel from the PVCRs and you changed to a 3.5 p/v which will close sooner than the 7.5s you removed.

[Dominator Scott]

The tank check valve is a C.C. required deal for all top draw tanks. I would still go back and check fuel pressure at WOT and you must install the F.P. guage as close to the carbs as possible for an accurate reading. When you say the 460 is stock am I to assume it has the D3VE-A2A heads on it? If so then you might want to bump the total timing up to about 35-36 @ 3000-3200 rpms. The engine should have no problem handling that timing as the C/R is only about 8-8.5 to 1 depending on block deck height. I'd also set the initial timing to 15-18 deg without exceding the 36 total. One more thing, get rid of those 3.5 power valves as they may be closing at your maximum rpm leaning out your engine. 600 CFM carbs are IMO too small for a 460. Try a vacume guage under the carbs to check manifold vacume, if the vacume starts to rise as you approch your maximum rpm the power valves will close cutting off the fuel from the PVCRs and you changed to a 3.5 p/v which will close sooner than the 7.5s you removed.
Unless that check valve is inside the tank then there isn't one there. As for the power valves I have rarely ever even dealt with them because I have always removed them on my blower motors. It seems that everyone has a different opinion of what to run for a PV on this application but I am about to the point of eliminating them and jetting up to compensate for it like I have done in the huffer motors in my 32 Dominator. Aside from the blower surge they have always idled just fine.
As for stepping up in carb size,that isn't an option so these have to be made to work as good as possible.
Also the fuel pressure gauge is located right underneath the carbs and is secured to the tunnel ram directly.

[Dominator Scott]

What do the plugs look like? Are they pretty much uniform or are some darker than others.
Looks good by the way.
http://***boat.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=31368&d=1179777540
The plugs are all burnin' lean uniformly. No plug looks very different from another.

[cruser]

I noticed you have vacuum secondary carbs. Are the secondaries opening?

[Dominator Scott]

I noticed you have vacuum secondary carbs. Are the secondaries opening?
Yes they are.

[502 JET]

As suggested above you need to connect a vacuume gauage and read manifold vacuume. You may be dumping too much fuel not leaning out. If that is the case you can get 1.5 pv's. and they will hold shut for you until w.o.t..
If you cruise back to the dock and do plug checks the plugs will clean up and not give you an accurate picture of what is taking place.
Prolong crusing at 4900 rpm and shuting off the engine and check plugs see if they are sooted up.
!!!WARNING YOUR BOAT MAY GO OUT OF CONTROL IF YOU SHUT IT OFF AT 4900 RPMS!!!!:2purples:BE SAFE!!!

[Dominator Scott]

As suggested above you need to connect a vacuume gauage and read manifold vacuume. You may be dumping too much fuel not leaning out. If that is the case you can get 1.5 pv's. and they will hold shut for you until w.o.t..
If you cruise back to the dock and do plug checks the plugs will clean up and not give you an accurate picture of what is taking place.
Prolong crusing at 4900 rpm and shuting off the engine and check plugs see if they are sooted up.
!!!WARNING YOUR BOAT MAY GO OUT OF CONTROL IF YOU SHUT IT OFF AT 4900 RPMS!!!!:2purples:BE SAFE!!!
Backfiring through the carb suggests a lean condition correct? This has happened a couple times.

[460 jus getn it]

Backfiring through the carb suggests a lean condition correct? This has happened a couple times.That or the incorrect fuel. I had a backfire threw the carb at wot running on 87. Switched to av gas and 92 mix and the problem went away.

[502 JET]

Backfiring through the carb suggests a lean condition correct? This has happened a couple times.
Backfiring through the carb and you may have blown out the power valves.
How much backfiring? A little stumble or popping through the carbs? Excessive backfiring could be a different problem.
You should install a balance tube between the vacuume diaphrams of the secondaries. It will allow the secondaries to respond in unison.

[Dominator Scott]

Backfiring through the carb and you may have blown out the power valves.
How much backfiring? A little stumble or popping through the carbs? Excessive backfiring could be a different problem.
You should install a balance tube between the vacuume diaphrams of the secondaries. It will allow the secondaries to respond in unison.
Just a small pop once but stumbling before and after that. Checked the power valves and they are okay. I am taking it out after work with a vacuum gauge on it to see what kind of vacuum I am producing. Also I have installed another fuel pressure gauge to verify I am at a constant 7lbs of pressure.

[058]

As suggested above you need to connect a vacuume gauage and read manifold vacuume. You may be dumping too much fuel not leaning out. If that is the case you can get 1.5 pv's. and they will hold shut for you until w.o.t..
If you cruise back to the dock and do plug checks the plugs will clean up and not give you an accurate picture of what is taking place.
Prolong crusing at 4900 rpm and shuting off the engine and check plugs see if they are sooted up.
!!!WARNING YOUR BOAT MAY GO OUT OF CONTROL IF YOU SHUT IT OFF AT 4900 RPMS!!!!:2purples:BE SAFE!!!1.5 power valves would probably never open since the carbs are relativly small for that application. If the 600cfm carbs are to be run then I suggest eliminating the p/vs and jet up accordingly. IMO the 3.5 p/vs are closing at or close to WOT further cutting off the extra fuel from the PVCRs. As I suggested above run the 7.5 or a 6.5 P/V for an earlier opening. It would also help to know what the PVCR diameter is.

[Dominator Scott]

1.5 power valves would probably never open since the carbs are relativly small for that application. If the 600cfm carbs are to be run then I suggest eliminating the p/vs and jet up accordingly. IMO the 3.5 p/vs are closing at or close to WOT further cutting off the extra fuel from the PVCRs. As I suggested above run the 7.5 or a 6.5 P/V for an earlier opening. It would also help to know what the PVCR diameter is.
The stumble feels relatively the same with the 7.5 or 3.5 power valves in the carbs. To be honest I have been messing with this and test running it so much I am losing my perspective and am having trouble telling any differences now.
I personally would rather plug the damn power valves and just jet the snot out of it,but people have advised me not to because of idling issues which is important considering the channel my father lives on is "no wake" for a good 200 yards and I don't want it loading up and dying on him because of idle difficulties..

[Squirtcha?]

Have you checked the tunnelram for leaks? If you've got an air leak somewhere that could account
for the lean condition. Are the carbs snug on their bases?
I reckon there are lots of ways to check for leaks. I've always heard spraying WD-40 around the
mounting surface and listening for it to idle down, or starter fluid and listen for an idle up.
Personally the starter fluid thing would make me a little nervous.

[OverKill]

Have you checked the tunnelram for leaks? If you've got an air leak somewhere that could account
for the lean condition. Are the carbs snug on their bases?
I reckon there are lots of ways to check for leaks. I've always heard spraying WD-40 around the
mounting surface and listening for it to idle down, or starter fluid and listen for an idle up.
Personally the starter fluid thing would make me a little nervous.
OH come on Dan remember when we were trying to get your daughters friends jeep to start. We used Starter fluid LOL it sure was funny when that thing was trying to turn over and POP!!!!. It makes me laugh writing this.

[OverKill]

Scott I think I know what the problem is. It's probably that skag slowing you down. LOL. Hey just to let you know I also have a tunnel ram and Most might disagree but vacume secondaries don't work so good on tunnel rams. I had a 750 vacume and got the same thing MIXED SIGNALS, sounded like pop corn. Went to 850cfm mechanical and all was fine. Just a thought

[502 JET]

The stumble feels relatively the same with the 7.5 or 3.5 power valves in the carbs. To be honest I have been messing with this and test running it so much I am losing my perspective and am having trouble telling any differences now.
I personally would rather plug the damn power valves and just jet the snot out of it,but people have advised me not to because of idling issues which is important considering the channel my father lives on is "no wake" for a good 200 yards and I don't want it loading up and dying on him because of idle difficulties..
Plugging the PV's will not affect your idle mixture. Niether will putting larger jets in. The engine most likely will still stumble with the PV's plugged and larger jets because at part throttle cruise the carbs will be dumping too much fuel.
The number on the PV indicates how much vacuum you need to hold it shut. When vacuum drops below the PV's number the valve opens enrichening the mixture.
EX: A 7.5 pv=7.5" inches of vacuum drop below that and the valve opens enrichening the mixture.

[cfm]

Any dual 4bbl set-up with vacuum secondaries should have vacuum line connecting the two vacuum actuators together. This way, they'll work at same time. Of course, assuming both have same spring in them too. Holley sells these vacuum housings.
If fuel psi is fine, then the whole system before the guage is keeping up and fine. We need to check delivery after guage. IE: needle and seats and jetting and filter if any after the guage.

[Dominator Scott]

Okay guys I took the boat out last night to get all the necessary info.
1)At idle the motor is at 10-11" of vacuum.
2)When you punch the gas the vacuum drops to zero and gradually climbs and at 4500RPM's which is all she pulls before it starts stumbling she is at about 3-4" of vacuum.
3) Fuel pressure remains at a constant 6-7lbs of pressure under acceleration.
Here is another thought. We had to pull the distributor to remove the old intake because the studs in the heads prevented us from sliding it back from the distributor and removing it. We never touched the points and the distributor dropped back in the original setting after a few tries. But is it possible the points are out of whack now?
Also since there is no little window on the distributor cap for setting the dwell when it running,how do you set the dwell? Or isn't there a dwell on this system?
Whats your thoughts.

[cfm]

Okay here is the deal. I recently bought a tunnel ram with dual Holley 600's for the BBF 460 and I am having a hell of a time tuning it in. (LEAN CONDITION)
I should add that jetting the carbs up,switch to the 3.5PV and new fuel pump has helped the lean condition but at 46ooRPM's she still falls off and sputters which sucks because I still have a 1/3 throttle left to go.
PLEASE HELP!!!!!!
For schits and giggles (and free) try closing your plug gap to .025"-.030" . if I remember right you still have a points ignition. Maybe it does not have enough juice ? If the small gap gives you some more rpm before breaking up then you found the issue. Fix it and the re-gap back to normal of course.
Oh, not sure if you mentioned this, but put timing light back on it and make sure you are getting full advance.

[cfm]

LOL. You answered one of my questions while I was reposting- Yup you have points !!!! That was funny,lol.
Sometimes ignition systems will seem like fuel issues and vice versa. Let's get that ignition system 100% since you do not know if it is.

[Dominator Scott]

LOL. You answered one of my questions while I was reposting- Yup you have points !!!! That was funny,lol.
Sometimes ignition systems will seem like fuel issues and vice versa. Let's get that ignition system 100% since you do not know if it is.
I took a quick visual inspection of the points this morning and they don't appear burnt,excessive wear or anything like that. This whole thing is just wierd considering it's like it has a damn rev limiter on it which if there is one,I be damned if I know where it is.:eek:

[Dominator Scott]

Okay everyone,I need to revise my findings a little.
At idle the motor is generating 15" of vacuum. Not 10".
Cruising speed the vacuum is between 7-10" of vacuum.
Everything else is the same as posted above.
Sorry about that,I had to review my notes and consult with my co-pilot who was taking the readings because I was busy driving.

[Dominator Scott]

Scott I think I know what the problem is. It's probably that skag slowing you down. LOL. Hey just to let you know I also have a tunnel ram and Most might disagree but vacume secondaries don't work so good on tunnel rams. I had a 750 vacume and got the same thing MIXED SIGNALS, sounded like pop corn. Went to 850cfm mechanical and all was fine. Just a thought
Wish I could change carbs but the $$$$ isn't there to do that.

[moneysucker]

Try placing a screw in the vacuum secondary lever area to make it manual. You may not be getting enough vacuum to open them completely. That is my guess

[Dominator Scott]

Try placing a screw in the vacuum secondary lever area to make it manual. You may not be getting enough vacuum to open them completely. That is my guess
Already done that buddy. I am thinking the 3.5 power valve was really messing me up considering at WOT the motor is at 3.5 to 4 inches of vacuum.
So the only time that power valve was open is at the initial stabbing of the gas and vacuum went to zero but closed at the higher RPM when the motor created 3.5 inches of vacuum or more. Gonna recheck my points,install the 10.5 power valves and try it again tonight after work.:idea:

[Dominator Scott]

UPDATE: Well guys I took the boat out again with the 10.5 power valves installed which is what I was told to put in it since I am at 15" of vacuum at idle and 4-7" at WOT. The carbs were still jetted with 72's in the primaries and 75's in the secondaries.
Anyways we idled out and let it warm up a bit and hit the throttle and she ran worse than before but this time it due to being way too rich.:jawdrop: So I went home,pulled the carbs and have taken the jets back to the original setting of 66's in the primaries and 67's in the secondaries. Hopefully I have got it right now with the power valve and jetting.
Even though it ran like chit I was exited it wasn't from a lean condition at least this time around.:rolleyes:
Whats your thoughts?

[058]

Keep the 66s in the primarys and jet up the secondarys to 72-73.

[502 JET]

To set the dwell just check it with the meter shut off the engine and readjust the points. Its a trial and error thing.
Its how I set the points on my fishing boat.
Be sure to check/readjust your timing after adjusting the points.

[Dominator Scott]

To set the dwell just check it with the meter shut off the engine and readjust the points. Its a trial and error thing.
Its how I set the points on my fishing boat.
Be sure to check/readjust your timing after adjusting the points.
I ordered the "Pertronics" conversion kit and it will be in tomorrow. Screw the points and chit. They are obsolete and a pain.

[Dominator Scott]

Keep the 66s in the primarys and jet up the secondarys to 72-73.
I haven't converted the secondaries to a metering block yet and am still running the jet plate and I only have the original 67 that came in the carb and the 75's that came out of my 750 Holleys.
Should I stick the 75 plate back in the secondaries instead of the 67 jet plate?

[RCB19]

Personally I would ditch the T-ram setup and go back to your single. You will never get those carbs to run right on that T-ram unless you invest in a professional to try and make them run right. Those carbs were not designed for use on a T-ram in the first place hence the problems that you are seeing. Not saying that you cant make them work but you will need help from a carburation specialist and I can almost guarantee you that he would tell you that they are not worth putting the $$$ into them to make them work. At best they would try and steer you towards double pumpers which would work much better on your T-ram. Your particular motor will run better with the single if it is properly calibrated. I would call C&J Engineering in Whittier Ca. 562-946-1388 and send in that single 4150 and have them go through it. You wont regret it! Those guys know what they are doing. Good luck with it.

[Dominator Scott]

Personally I would ditch the T-ram setup and go back to your single. You will never get those carbs to run right on that T-ram unless you invest in a professional to try and make them run right. Those carbs were not designed for use on a T-ram in the first place hence the problems that you are seeing. Not saying that you cant make them work but you will need help from a carburation specialist and I can almost guarantee you that he would tell you that they are not worth putting the $$$ into them to make them work. At best they would try and steer you towards double pumpers which would work much better on your T-ram. Your particular motor will run better with the single if it is properly calibrated. I would call C&J Engineering in Whittier Ca. 562-946-1388 and send in that single 4150 and have them go through it. You wont regret it! Those guys know what they are doing. Good luck with it.
I have got way too much time invested into this tunnel ram just to give up on it. If all else fails I have a friend that builds race motors and has had great success with tunnel rams. So if I have to go and admit defeat then I will just have him set it up for me.
Besides if I went back to my Holley 800 I would have to upgrade the intake to something better than my "Torker460" and spend money on something I really don't want in the first place. Setting twin carbs isn't rocket science,it just takes some patience and a little skill.

[058]

I haven't converted the secondaries to a metering block yet and am still running the jet plate and I only have the original 67 that came in the carb and the 75's that came out of my 750 Holleys.
Should I stick the 75 plate back in the secondaries instead of the 67 jet plate? I didn't know you were using sec. plates instead of metering blocks as there is a difference in jet numbers and metering plate hole size.
The plate with the .075" hole would be IMO better than trying to run the .067plate as these carb calibrations are most likely for car use where secondary use is minimal. Better to be on the fat side than risk leaning the engine at WOT with the .067" sec hole. Makes no sense to run the same [or close] size sec jet with no p/v as whats in the pri. side with the 66 jets plus PVCR & power valve.

[nyjetboat]

for what its worth i ran the same carbs , out of the box stock from jegs . all i changed was vac secondary pod to quick change kit for dual carbs it comes with the crossover tube to even them out like someone said earlier. i ended up using the short yellow springs . it worked fine but i have since changed to doulble pumpers good luck

[RCB19]

I have got way too much time invested into this tunnel ram just to give up on it. If all else fails I have a friend that builds race motors and has had great success with tunnel rams. So if I have to go and admit defeat then I will just have him set it up for me.
Besides if I went back to my Holley 800 I would have to upgrade the intake to something better than my "Torker460" and spend money on something I really don't want in the first place. Setting twin carbs isn't rocket science,it just takes some patience and a little skill.
Dont get me wrong. T-ram's do work and they work well providing that you have the right combination of parts so they will work together correctly. If you insist on keeping the ram I would seriously think about swapping those carbs for something else like a pair of 650 double pumpers. Those vac. sec. 600's that you have are just not the right carb for a T-ram. Not having that secondary metering plate is where most of your problem lies amongst other calibration and air metering issues. Like I said you could make these carbs work but it will cost you more than I think you want to spend to get them right. I know that they do offer a secondary metering block conversion kit for these carbs from Holley which is a step forward but even after that they still wont be right. I went down this same road myself years ago and ended up selling the whole shabang to somebody who swore they could make them work.:rolleyes: Maybe thats why the guy that owned the setup before you wanted to sell it??? The other option is to slap a Performer RPM and your 800 back on and you are good to go. You would probably end up spending less with this option. Those manifolds are up for sale on E-bay and racing junk all the time if you are looking to save. Anyways just trying to get you on the water without the headache.

[OverKill]

Scott quote me if Im worng but I think 15 inches of vacume is to high. Do you have fuel filters in the carb. fittings. You know the one's that look like compressed glitter. If so take them out you could have restricted fuel fill to the bowls.

[nyjetboat]

the part no for the quick change kit is 510-20-73 at jegs also springs kit is 510-20 13 you'll need 2 spring kits take a look if you are still staying with the 600s

[Dominator Scott]

Well guys I went for another sea trial last night with no success to speak of. I am really starting to think something is off in the ignition system and my reasoning is this. Last year the points and condenser crapped out on me and the boat ran like chit. I was sure it was a carb issue and ran 3 different carbs but had the same chitty results. Well she is acting the same way again so I ordered a "Pertronics" HEI conversion and it should be here today. So today I will install the HEI conversion kit,the rear metering blocks and see what happens.
I don't know how but I must have cooked the points or condenser or both when I adjusted them a few days ago before my last sea trial. I tried resetting them again to spec last night, but it made no difference. Plugs are now burning rich which makes no sense considering the carbs now have the original jetting which was burning lean last week befor I screwed with the distributor. The only difference is the 10.5 power valve instead of the original 7.5 the carbs came with.
As for the 15" of vacuum at idle,yes I was surprised also. But the cam shaft in this engine doesn't have huge overlap with big lift and duration so it's not a complete surprise I guess.
I think once I get this ignition issue taken care of everything else will fall into place with a little tinkering. I didn't have any big plans this weekend so I will just spend it getting this thing tuned in.