Want to get it “rolling”.

[f_inscreenname]

Built my motor (1986 MIE340, 454ci) with a few tricks in the bottom end over the winter and saved the easy stuff until now.
I hate valve chatter and wouldn’t mind freeing up a few HP so I want to make the whole thing “roller”. I use a hydraulic lifter cam now. Its about a month old and it is right where I want it to be (lift/dur). Now for the questions.
Can I use roller lifters with the cam I have now?
Will my block need to be cut for roller lifters to fit (sorry, I just read something but may have misunderstood)?
http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b264/f_inscreenname/?action=view&current=P5050017.flv

[ck7684]

What size cam is it now?? If you stay with the same specs you arent using the roller cam to it's full advantage. You cannot use the same camshaft and just swap lifters, as a roller cam is steel whereas your current cam is cast. You will also need to either change the distributer gear to a bronze gear to work with the steel roller cam or have a special cast gear added to the camshaft (which is what I did on my current engine). You should be able to figure out the rpm range and charactoristics of your current cam and find a roller that will work out about the same. You shouldnt have to cut the block, but there are different style lifters out there so some may require this...?
However, I dont think this addresses your valve chatter problem. You shouldnt have that just because your running hyd flat lifters. I would look into what is causing this, especially if you are happy with your current set-up. Perhaps your rockers need adjusting...

[GUGS102]

Make sure they are properly adjusted. To go to any roller set up will be around 700-1000 depending on the brand and quality of parts.
The heads will have to come back off for springs and set up. If the valves are making noise, are you sure you have the cam broken in properly and don't have a flat cam lobe or lobes?
Run the valves one more time at 1/4 turn, if it starts making noise again, you have another issue. If it's a cam lobe you'll be pulling the entire motor apart. The good part is that you can add a roller set up wasier if it's apart. I'll never run an flat tappet cam again. Had two go flat and cost me $$$$$

[cfm]

Don't knoww what you call chatter, so I'll assume just noise.
Onlything that can reallyu cause noise in a hydraulic flat / roller is roller rockers or high bleed down lifters like Rhoads or Hi Intensities or etc.
Aren't too many HR's I'd suggest using stamped steel roller rockers other than the GM cams. You could go all the way up to the ZZ502 cam as that motor uses stamped steel rockers.
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No roller lifters on flat tappet cams. Way different design !
Total conversion to HR will cost $1000-$1400 in parts, including misc's. All depending on what you want to do.

[f_inscreenname]

The cam is now a Seal Pro hyd flat, Chevy 396-502 cid, RPM Range 2000-4500, Adv Dur 296 intake/296 exhaust, Dur @.050 218 intake/218 exhaust, Valve Lift 519 intake/519 exhaust, Lobe C/L 110.
It seem like after a 5 mile run at 3200+ when I come to a stop I get more valve train noise then I normally have. After a few seconds it will go away. I know I am not running the best oil yet (average 40 weight) and I am sure I could use a little tweaking/adjustment on the rockers and the motor only has 5 to 10 hours on it but I have never had a Chevy motor that didnÂ’t have some noise. One thing I miss about my old Mopar. You lock the rocker shafts down and you are done. IMHO Chevy valve trainÂ’s are a fickle things and getting valve covers off to adjust means pulling the exhaust manifolds and that is a pain in the a$$. So I thought RollerÂ’ing the whole thing would quiet it down some and the free HP would not hurt any either.
So from what I am getting is I need a new “roller cam” and matching “roller lifters”. A bronze distributor gear and roller rockers to make this happen?

[Ralph Brunt]

those valve covers will come off more often with a roller to keep things adjusted. i check mine after every outing just to be sure.

[ck7684]

I would try to adjust the rockers especially seeing as this is a pretty fresh motor. Being hydralic, they shouldnt require a lot of maintenance once they are set...

[Ryan00TJ]

Go with a cam core that has a pressed on iron dist gear. That way you can use a standard dist gear and don't have to mess with the bronze gear. All the major cam companies offer these.
I don't see where all the adjusting comes from? I converted my new motor to a hyd roller setup and you simply set the preload and tighten down the poly locks. No problems. Even with my old solid lifter engine I only checked the lash a few times per year and it was always the same.