Bog off line

[River Rat 005]

Got a Holley 1050 has 3 circuit a 1 power valve in primary 85 and 94 jets no power valve in secondary, super vic intake, 468 cid, 12.5 to 1, cam 286@.050 800" lift, in a hydro. Idle is 1500. Had bog with 37 squirters and I have gone up to 58 and still bogs. To get it going, I hit the throttle once then floor it. It will then pull good. If I just floor it, it will blubber a long or quits. I'm thinking it still needs bigger squirters since it pulls good after the second hit. Water temp has no affect on the bog. Makes it hard to cut a good light. Also it idles rich with little vacuum hence the low power valve. As far as I can tell, the air bleeds are original. Any thoughts or ideas?

[502 JET]

What do you have your timing set to?
Do you have your idle mixture adjusted properly?
Are the accelerator pump arms adjusted properly?
Have you tried fattening up the primaries and blocking the power valve?

[River Rat 005]

I have a complete MSD ignition with crank trigger. Timing is set at 36*. I've got idle mixture screws set where it idles best, but they don't do much. I've checked the pumps and they are right. Removing the power valve was my next thought. Or maybe drilling the primary squirter out to .060. It has progressive linkage, so maybe the secondary won't need as big of a squiter.

[Red Rocket]

If you remove the squirter, under it is a stainless needle type of check valve make sure it is not stuck. It should move freely, if it is stuck all the fuel can't get passed it to the squirter nozzle. I also wouldn't hesitate to try real big squirters.

[steelcomp]

That's a ton of cam for that little motor. You have basically no air signal to the carb at idle. A stock 1050 should work just fine for what you have, and shouldn't need a lot of modification. My guess is you have the butterflys open past the transfer slots and aren't getting much out of your idle circuit, so there's hardly any transition. You're already into the intermediate circuit, and it can't handle the hit, so you have to bandaid it with the squirters. If your butterflys are that far open, you can drill them to allow more air at idle without opening them too far. This will improve your idle quality and throttle response. You might add a little timing, but you'll probably lose a little top end. I'll go back to the fact that I think you're fighting way too much cam. I have a 468 with a pair of 1050's that's making 820+, and I'm in the .700/260 range, and will turn 7000+. (makes over 600 lbs/ft from 4700 to 7000)

[78Eliminator]

At wide open throttle how many RPMs do you pull?
Also, have you looked down in the carb to make sure the squirters are indeed squirting?

[River Rat 005]

The thing I don't understand is I built the engine in 03. Had .037 squirters and didn't stumble until the 5th race which was Smoken in the cove. I figured it was do to the engine to cold. Long waits between warm up and runs. Since then it has gotten worse. I'll have to check again, but Holley said to have .015 of the trasnsfer slot showing. I know about the drilling of the butterflys, I had to do that on an 850 once.
78, at the hit of the throttle it goes to about 7000. At the finish line, it's at about 7200. I couild run it harder, but this has been getting me my number. Yes I did look to see if they were squirting and they're squirting lots of fuel. Some times the most obvious is over looked.
Red Rocket, I'll check the needle valve. Maybe I'll get lucky.

[River Rat 005]

Well I took the carb off. Only 1 venturi has any slot visible and I can bearly see it. The other 3 I can't see any. The squirters start flowing fuel with any movement of the throttle. Would a 4 hole spacer help the signal to the carb? If so, a 1/2" or a 1". Maybe a shear? What does any one think?
Tim