Hardlined motor.

[dmontzsta]

Anyone have pics of motors that are fully hardlined (fuel, water)?
I remember some bitchen pics, but cannot find them in a search. I am sort of kicking around the idea.
Thanks.

[Bolt Nazi]

do you even have a motor!

[dmontzsta]

do you even have a motor!
ouch! :( Just about... :D

[Kindsvater Flat]

You need SUPERDAVE!!!

[V-DRIVE VIDEO]

do you even have a motor!
:D :D :D

[FLATMVN]

I have pis of mine but cant post them. pm me your email and I will send them to you.

[Rattle Can Lou]

Hey Boner...uh I mean Gran Wizzer. Talk to Belly B. about hard on's...I mean hard lines. His shiznet went to Hell in Burley last year. But, I forgot. Your boat is used like a rubber ducky in an asian bath house...you should be OK.
Love Ya..RCL

[dmontzsta]

Hey Boner...uh I mean Gran Wizzer. Talk to Belly B. about hard on's...I mean hard lines. His shiznet went to Hell in Burley last year. But, I forgot. Your boat is used like a rubber ducky in an asian bath house...you should be OK.
Love Ya..RCL
Hey spud, my boat is going to be a trailer queen. I only buy V-Drives so I can sit on the shore and bench race, I might put it in the water and anchor it, just to have something to look at! :rolleyes:

[Bolt Nazi]

If it ever see's the water! not from a hose.

[dmontzsta]

If it ever see's the water! not from a hose.
damn, where is the love? is Jerry putting you up to this? :rolleyes: :)
Thats ok, you are all just scared of the mighty beast! that is all... :D

[burbanite]

I did hardlined my last boat, don't know if I have any decent pics or not but I'll check it out when I get home. I used polished, annealed stainless and polished B-nuts, didn't take more than an afternoon to do but I had the polishing wheels, benders and flaring tools at work to use which helped speed up the process.
I measured and cut the tubing then polished it on the wheels before I bent it. I polished off all of the markings on the B-nuts before assembly as well, then I just went over each piece again to clean them up. One thing that I have found useful is to use a fitting to check the seal of the flare after you assemble the tube but before you actually fit it, tighten the nut onto the fitting a few times as you normally would and check the markings on the flare face. Always check to see that the flare did not crack regardless.
Always do a pressure check before use also. Make up a quick checker using tubing and fittings of the appropriate sizes and an airline fitting, plug it into your compressor with one end of the tube capped off and immerse in water.

[MAXIMUS]

Here are a couple of old shots of my fuel lines done in hard line...http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/engine_pic4.jpg
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/2kendra_04.jpg
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/engine_pic6.jpg
The middle shot gets hard to look at the lines from the angle but I think it is a good example of nicely shaped lines.

[dmontzsta]

Thanks Maxi. Those lines look clean.
In the middle pic, the top line above the scoop, does it leak at all? it looks a little puffy.
Thanks again.

[Roaddogg 4040]

Geez Maxie, it must be sort of inconvenient to drive arouond with that gal holding your injector hat on like that. The Bolt Nazi could sell you a few bolts that would hold that thing down without her help...:)
Steve

[V-DRIVE VIDEO]

does it leak at all? it looks a little puffy.
phffffft!:D
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/2kendra_04.jpg

[superdave013]

I did hardlined my last boat, don't know if I have any decent pics or not but I'll check it out when I get home. I used polished, annealed stainless and polished B-nuts, didn't take more than an afternoon to do but I had the polishing wheels, benders and flaring tools at work to use which helped speed up the process.
Yeah, I bet a lifetime of building race cars helped speed up the process too.
Alot of people are scared to even try it. But once you figure a few things out it runs pretty smooth. You'll need some good benders and a good 37* flaring tool.

[dossangers]

do you even have a motor!
Wow Bolt Nazi pops up and throws a LEFT JAB!!!!!!!!:jawdrop: :jawdrop:

[steve d]

Yeah, I bet a lifetime of building race cars helped speed up the process too.
Alot of people are scared to even try it. But once you figure a few things out it runs pretty smooth. You'll need some good benders and a good 37* flaring tool.
Dave, is there a certain grade you recommend less likely to be affected
by harmonics and down right vibration. Considering this route on my hilborn.
......Steve

[wsuwrhr]

http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/2kendra_04.jpg
I got a hard line of my own to show....

[wsuwrhr]

some people would bitch if you hung them with a used rope.
sheesh
damn ford dorks, all the same.
In the middle pic, the top line above the scoop, does it leak at all? it looks a little puffy.
Thanks again.

[superdave013]

Dave, is there a certain grade you recommend less likely to be affected
by harmonics and down right vibration. Considering this route on my hilborn.
......Steve
Steve, I'm no expert on that but what I use is 304 annealed seamless tube with a 0.035" wall. The small 3/16" stuff is 0.028" wall.
I'm sure it's all tied into how you have it supported and clamped down. I'm a fan of stainless tube sleeves. Nothing worse then doing a puss bend only to hear the alum sleeve crack because ya snugged it up a little to much.
burbanite is the real expert with this stuff.

[dmontzsta]

Dave, thanks for coming in and getting this thread back on track...I have been in a trance for the last hour, all I see is pink now.
Maxi, next time be sure to polish that hat a little better, the reflection is REALLY hard to see! :D

[wsuwrhr]

Dave, thanks for coming in and getting this thread back on track...I have been in a trance for the last hour, all I see is pink now.
Maxi, next time be sure to polish that hat a little better, the reflection is REALLY hard to see! :D
More bitching.

[dmontzsta]

More bitching.
I KNOW being a mopar lover, you have done your fair share of bitching! :D so let me have my moment! :)

[wsuwrhr]

I KNOW being a mopar lover, you have done your fair share of bitching! :D so let me have my moment! :)
You got me there.

[Bolt Nazi]

Dave, thanks for coming in and getting this thread back on track...I have been in a trance for the last hour, all I see is pink now.
Maxi, next time be sure to polish that hat a little better, the reflection is REALLY hard to see! :D
DUDE QUIT WHINING,YOU SOUND LIKE A CHEVY PERSON!!!!

[dmontzsta]

DUDE QUIT WHINING,YOU SOUND LIKE A CHEVY PERSON!!!!
damn, the Nazi is coming in swinging at everyone...no mercy! no mercy! :D lol.
Glad to see you are awake over there. :D
NOW!!! whats up with putting a chevy in the Baron? :devil:

[wsuwrhr]

NOW!!! whats up with putting a chevy in the Baron? :devil:
Probably got it for free. It isn't like they are worth anything.

[Bolt Nazi]

NOW!!! whats up with putting a chevy in the Baron?
I'm going to put the ford in a 641/2 mustang.

[dmontzsta]

NOW!!! whats up with putting a chevy in the Baron?
I'm going to put the ford in a 641/2 mustang.
I see what you are doing...NICE!
So, did you get the chevy for free? :D

[burbanite]

burbanite is the real expert with this stuff.
Hey, I thought you were the plumbing guru around here...:)
sd is on the money when he says to use the 304 annealed, easy to work with and if you get yourself a decent hand bender and a decent flaring tool it can all be done in a flash. This is the stuff I use, the 304L buffed. If you use any welded tubing place the weld on the inside of the bends if possible, not that you should have any problem, just something I do automatically.
http://www.aedmotorsport.com/Stainless/304RoundTube.htm
If you have access to a polishing wheel, (one that actually removes metal not just shines it up), then you are in even better shape. I use this for taking the burrs off the flares as well as making it look pretty. After flaring you can often see and feel a sharp edge, you need to remove this as it can lead to a stress riser and a crack - not something you need on a fuel line.
On a side note here, most problems that occur with any fitting are usually as a result of over-tightening the thing in the first place, doesn't take much to crack a seat, especially if it is an aluminum fitting. They make fitting wrenches for a reason and there is no need to reef the thing tight with a long reach wrench and a clenched jaw...;)
As Dave alluded to, I have spent much of my life building race cars and have never, ever had a failure of a hardline that wasn't caused by the wall knocking it off...:D Some of these engines went over 17,000RPM and had harmonics up the ying yang but not one line ever broke.
MAXIMUS, I need to know where to get the fittings you used on your engine, that is exactly the look I want when I do my own TT engine soon. Dave, do you sell these? Those colors will match my Schiada perfectly.

[MAXIMUS]

MAXIMUS, I need to know where to get the fittings you used on your engine, that is exactly the look I want when I do my own TT engine soon. Dave, do you sell these? Those colors will match my Schiada perfectly.[/QUOTE]
I had all my fitting stripped, polished & reanodized by Jenco in So El Monte. I would recommend going with nickle fittings or something else... Lots of work, time & dollars & they still fade in the sun.:( Next time I will either go all clear or nickle...:)

[gn7]

you should consider moving that injector hat over to the 305 for at least one race, maybe Long Beach.

[rrrr]

Thanks Maxi. Those lines look clean.
In the middle pic, the top line above the scoop, does it leak at all? it looks a little puffy.
Thanks again.
I'd be more concerned about the apparent oil leak from the top orfice of that device.....seems to be some residue around it. It suggests poor lubrication and overuse. :jawdrop:
burbanite.....
never, ever had a failure of a hardline that wasn't caused by the wall knocking it off...
LMAO!!!! :D