Battery question....no deep cycle?

[2Driver]

According to the Volvo/Penta Manual you can't use a deep cycle or they claim it will cause probems with the EFI??? THey say it in 3 places in the manual with big "CAUTION!!!" call outs? Ever heard of that?
Also, Can you go bigger than recomended on CCA? Say 650 CCA is called for is it ok to go to 750 or 800 CCA?

[Big Warlock]

you shouldn't run Volvo / Penta huh? I have never heard of that! What does the battery care if your running with an alternator anyway? The purpose of the deep cycle is the amount of draining and charging you do with a marine battery. I don't believe it has anything to do with performance of your electronic fuel injection????

[SmokinLowriderSS]

I agree with BigWarlock, I don't see how it'd matter to your EFI. Last timne I checked, batteries put out close to 12.5V, once the engine is running the alternator puts out 14-16V. The EFI can't even SEE the battery anymore. Deep cycles aren't the best for starting, no. They usually will not push the high amperages starting batteries will as they are designed to push smaller ammounbts longer (different optomization).
Use as big a CCA number as you want. A lot of times tho, the big amp numbers are relatively frail from vibration/rough treatment. Thin plates & separators. Consider the recomendation in your manual a MINIMUM cranking amps number.

[Beer-30]

There's no way the engine / EFI could know what battery is connected - unless it is a 6V or 24V.
It is not recommended to put a deep cycle on the starting side, since a DCs job is to drain and refill multiple times. Same goes for running a starter type bat as a deep cycle. That's not its job and it won't last long.
I just got two of Optima's D31M marine blue top "dual-purpose" (says it right on top and on the website) bats that can be used as starting well as be deep-cycled. $143 at Costco.

[rivercrazy]

I've been using Optima deep cycle batteries for my EFI engine for years without any issues. In fact I've been using the same set of Optimas for over 5 seasons. These batteries also run a 3 amp stereo system as well.

[77charger]

one thing i have learned with gel batts(in my sandrail)is that they can be charge sensative mine states on it no less than 13.8 no more than 14.1.Damn thing is less than a year old and it is starting to crap out.If you want to charge at home you will need a special charger for it or you will kil it early.Will replace ith a lead acid type when it does go which is soon
It is spill proof though about the only thing good about it.Some have had very good luck with optimas others bad luck i use lead acid in my boat and have had no probs plus i can top off charge with a regular batt charger

[h2oski2fast]

EFI engines are more susceptible to voltage "irregularities". Deep Cycle batteries, when used for starting, have a tendency to drop to voltages that are likely out of spec for the EFI. That's why they recommend against their use for starting.
This is correct. But, I'm sure the rest of you know more about Volvo/Penta's EFI system then they do?

[BajaMike]

Optima Blue Tops...the best....and buy at Costco, if it ever fails, full money back!!!!
Just trade it in every 2 years, no questions asked!!! (it will probably last 5 years!).
:rollside: :rollside:

[YeLLowBoaT]

cost of the battery they recomend vs cost of F00king up the ecu.....no brainer

[a catered life]

Optima Blue Tops...the best....and buy at Costco, if it ever fails, full money back!!!!
Just trade it in every 2 years, no questions asked!!! (it will probably last 5 years!).
:rollside: :rollside:
i thougt i was the only cheap sack of sshiat doing this :cry:

[2Driver]

This is correct. But, I'm sure the rest of you know more about Volvo/Penta's EFI system then they do?
I thought low voltage and recovery rate might have something to do with it. Always something new to learn.
Too bad the Service Manager who delivered it to the first owner didn't know better. The dealer delivered it with an Interstate deep cycle and said not to worry about it. :rolleyes:

[Beer-30]

The Optima blue top is made for bouncing around. Their website explains. Sand-car would be a good place for one. Still lead/acid, just not lead plates - so charging is the same.
H2Oski: Several peeps around here are running everything from orignal cheapie lead-acid-plate to Optima to Stinger to Odyssey and in every configuration from multiple 6V to just multiple 12V. These are in everything from carb to Merc EFI to Motec, FAST, whatever injection. Fact is, 12V is 12V. If the starter can't tell the difference, neither can the EFI.
It's not that any of us know more than someone else does about their particular piece, it's just that certain things are universal.
For instance, on the picture you posted awhile back (twin-turbo) - you are using turbos that were originally designed for diesel engines and peeps started using them on gas. Seem to work, though. That doesn't necessarily mean you know more about the manufacturer's part than they do, does it? It just means it works. The engine doesnt know where the extra air is coming from, it just knows it's there.

[rivercrazy]

If you're using more than one, it shouldn't be a problem. Most people, unless they're stereo crazy, don't.
I'm running 3 blue tops. 2 for stereo.
Proper charging is key for AGM batteries. I charge them with a 6 amp 3 stage charger after every day of use.

[2Driver]

Volvo/Penta does not take calls but does reposnd to e-mail.
From Volvo Penta US:
"There won’t be any damage per se, but the deep cycle battery acts as a “slow drain” battery, designed to power radios, etc. on boat. The boat will still start with a deep cycle battery, but since it doesn’t have the higher amount of amps, a lower voltage will go through the ECM and the data the ECM reads and provides then may not be as accurate as if you were using a regular battery."
Dumb a$$ dealer who installed a deep cycle :yuk:

[Beer-30]

That's why I like the D31M bluetop. Marine battery that is for either starting or deep cycling. Problem(s) solved.

[77charger]

To further elaborate, Odyssey batteries especially (as with most AGM) are very intolerate of being paralleled or charged with other non-AGM batteries. The fastest way to kill an Odyssey is to use it with non-Odyssey batteries and charge it with a regular charger. You charged should be AGM specific.
I aint using the odesey almost did though.didnt know they cant be parraled almost bought one for my boat.Just dont want to have to get a special charger for boat,etc.Rather just deal withthe hi output alternator and not worry.
IMO for now on if a regular alternator or batt charger wont work i wont buy it.

[Beer-30]

Well, you've touched on exactly the point. Deep cycles, when used for starting, can deliver voltages below 12v.
I think their concern is causing the EFI to perform erratically after a low voltage situation.
Absolutely. And that makes alot of sense. But, c'mon, we all know that a properly charged deep cycle will start an "average" EFI (496, 500, 525) without any problem at all. It happens every day. I just didn't see how it could affect a Vulva any differently. Is it optimal? no.

[Beer-30]

Again, it's not the starting, it's the drop in voltage that could make the EFI computer act crazy. Hey, I didn't write the manual, I'm just explaining their thinking. I'm sure they had an issue or two and are in CYA mode.
No no, I am with ya. I see their issue - or theory of issue.
I have a cousin that bought a '56 Chevy from us. It was carbureted, but he put a Holley Pro-jection EFI on it. It took them a long time to get it started. Ends up, the old style starter was drawing so much current - the EFI couldn't proceed to run mode. They put a gear-reduction starter on it and it was fine. Same thing. If a deep cycle dipped down to the 11V or less area during start, the EFI would bottom out.
I am just saying that a nice, new, fully charged deep cycle would start pretty much any motor. Maybe a "seasoned" one would not retain the initial punch of a starting battery.