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View Full Version : Running a jet boat on the trailer. Can it be done?



Dominator Scott
06-14-2007, 11:24 AM
Okay guys I was wondering if it is possible to run the Sanger on the trailer if the the garden hose is shoved onto the intake grate and on full blast. Will it get enough water to keep the engine cool or no?
Lookin to change the oil tonight and wanted to warm it up a bit before I suck it out with the pump.
Can't afford a jet-away this season so that isn't an option.

tx-19
06-14-2007, 11:27 AM
it will not work.disconnect the drive shaft.if u cant do that then i wouldnt do it at all.

Dominator Scott
06-14-2007, 11:42 AM
it will not work.disconnect the drive shaft.if u cant do that then i wouldnt do it at all.
How much of a pain is it to disconnect and reconnect the drive shaft. I have never done that.

tx-19
06-14-2007, 11:48 AM
depends on wut kind of mounts u have.u want to disconnect it from the fly wheel.how far is the loca lake from u?l

Dominator Scott
06-14-2007, 12:27 PM
depends on wut kind of mounts u have.u want to disconnect it from the fly wheel.how far is the loca lake from u?l
45 minutes minimum away from the lake.

Heatseeker
06-14-2007, 12:33 PM
Scott, this subject has been beaten to death on this board. Do a search to read the opposing views on it. When running on the trailer,the danger is in the pump(you can easily plumb water to the engine for cooling purposes).
Basically, most of the pros discourage it, but some guys do it and some guys don't. It's even been reported that some manufacturers used to break in the cams on new boats before delivery to the customer while running on the trailer.
Personally, I'll run mine for a minute or two on the trailer to verify that it's going to start and that the timing is right before I drag it to the water. But never any longer than that.

pw_Tony
06-14-2007, 12:40 PM
When I'm working on my boat I run it on the trailer to verify everything's good. Hook a hose up to it and a sprinkler under the grate. Good for doing timing and what-not

Dominator Scott
06-14-2007, 12:55 PM
The other reason I was going to hook it to the hose is to flush out the block.
During all my testing and tuning I have been running it in a river with a very silty bottom. So maybe the better thing to do is hook the motor up to the hose and pull the block plugs out and NOT run it. I would think that should flush it out pretty good,don't you guys think so?
Delivering the boat back to dad on Saturday so the lst thing I want to do is mess something up. My main goal is to flush the dirt and sediment out of the block itself. I have a drain hose kit on the oil pan so my pump should suck the oil out okay without running the boat first to warm the oil up, I would think.:confused:

OverKill
06-14-2007, 01:10 PM
Scott
Most important thing to worry about is the pump. Ask yourself what type of wear ring do you have in the pump. You don't want to screw up your clearnences by running it dry to long. I would not run it more than 30 senconds on the trailer. If you can disconnect the drive line, I would go that route. If you have that ultimate wear ring stuff, you never want to run it dry. All that is, is plastic.
James

1978 Rogers
06-14-2007, 01:14 PM
I only run mine on the trailer at WOT. :D

BrendellaJet
06-14-2007, 01:15 PM
just let the oil drain overnight. You will get all but very little out. Lift the nose some too so it drains to the plug...

Dominator Scott
06-14-2007, 02:30 PM
just let the oil drain overnight. You will get all but very little out. Lift the nose some too so it drains to the plug...
What about flushing out the block. Will hooking the hose to the engine and pulling the drain plugs out work good enough? Not running the boat but just letting the water run through the block and out.

tx-19
06-14-2007, 02:58 PM
if u run headers make the line is turned off,or u might build pressure and let water into the cyclinders.

Lightning
06-14-2007, 03:24 PM
The other reason I was going to hook it to the hose is to flush out the block.
During all my testing and tuning I have been running it in a river with a very silty bottom. So maybe the better thing to do is hook the motor up to the hose and pull the block plugs out and NOT run it. I would think that should flush it out pretty good,don't you guys think so?
Delivering the boat back to dad on Saturday so the lst thing I want to do is mess something up. My main goal is to flush the dirt and sediment out of the block itself. I have a drain hose kit on the oil pan so my pump should suck the oil out okay without running the boat first to warm the oil up, I would think.:confused:
If you have the drain hose on the pan, you should be able to pull the oil cold. I run 40w in my boat and can pull the oil cold no problem. Don't forget to crack the oil fill on the valve cover :)

Dominator Scott
06-14-2007, 03:28 PM
if u run headers make the line is turned off,or u might build pressure and let water into the cyclinders.
Or just disconnect the lines to the headers which I planned on doing.

Jetaholic
06-14-2007, 05:00 PM
Another way of doing it that someone told me is with two garden hoses. One of them gets hooked to the motor, while the other one you pull the handhole cleanout cover off the pump and stick the hose in there and let it go full blast onto the impeller. The idea is that hose #2 will provide water to water lubricate the wear ring.
Not sure if it would be the best way to do it, but it was what I had heard from somebody. Just my $0.02.

condor tx 19
06-14-2007, 07:56 PM
i take the hose off the fitting on the pump then get a foot long piece of 5\8 heater hose then put that on the pump and the other end on a T connector for flushing out the heater core on a car then connect my water line on the boat to the other side. the other side of the fitting has the same thread as the garden hose go to the hardware store and get a female to female garden hose adapter hook it up and turn on the hose. once the motor fills with water i usually put some pinch off pliers loosly on that side of the t to feed more water back into the pump then fire it up. its probably not elnough water to run it for a long time, but enough should get to the impeller to keep the wear ring from getting hot. maybe im right maybe im wrong but ive never had any damage to the pump or motor doing it that way.

jet guy
06-14-2007, 08:35 PM
my question is why do you need to run the boat to flush the motor on my the motor has no pump of any kind for the water so all I get is hose press. so what good would it be to run the motor to flush the block

Dominator Scott
06-15-2007, 06:15 AM
my question is why do you need to run the boat to flush the motor on my the motor has no pump of any kind for the water so all I get is hose press. so what good would it be to run the motor to flush the block
I was only gonna run the boat to warm up the oil. Flushing the block would be done while the engine is off and drain plugs were out.
I actually just hooked my oil change pump to the drain hose on the oil pan and it sucked the motor dry in about 3 minutes. Didn't even lose any oil when I spun the old filter off the engine.:D It now has fresh oil and I will hook up the hose tonight and flush the block out without running the motor.

biggraypig
06-15-2007, 06:27 PM
The man at Berkeley told me if you plumb water through your engine, and put a hose in the nozzel of your pump you can run it on the trailer with no problems. I use a tee for a garden hose with a short piece for the pump, and have had no problems. I do like the idea of running it in the cleanout though, it would probably be even better.

3 daytona`s
06-15-2007, 07:04 PM
Another way of doing it that someone told me is with two garden hoses. One of them gets hooked to the motor, while the other one you pull the handhole cleanout cover off the pump and stick the hose in there and let it go full blast onto the impeller. The idea is that hose #2 will provide water to water lubricate the wear ring.
Not sure if it would be the best way to do it, but it was what I had heard from somebody. Just my $0.02.
LOL

MudPumper
06-15-2007, 10:10 PM
You guys really love to beat a dead horse. :idea:

BIGAMIST
06-15-2007, 10:34 PM
You guys really love to beat a dead horse. :idea:
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/beating-a-dead-horse.gif

396_WAYS_TO_SPIT
06-17-2007, 11:20 AM
Scott
Most important thing to worry about is the pump. Ask yourself what type of wear ring do you have in the pump. You don't want to screw up your clearnences by running it dry to long. I would not run it more than 30 senconds on the trailer. If you can disconnect the drive line, I would go that route. If you have that ultimate wear ring stuff, you never want to run it dry. All that is, is plastic.
James
James is 100% correct;) I have an ultimate wearring and I will nOT dry fire my pump. It sucks now because I have a custom driveshaft and you can disconnect it without pulling the motor:cry:

396_WAYS_TO_SPIT
06-17-2007, 11:20 AM
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/beating-a-dead-horse.gif
LMFAO:D :D :D