Lower unit compatability question

[hardlyworkin]

Is there a difference in lower units between mercury v6 outboards? 2.0 vs. 2.4 vs 2.5
I have a 2.0 150hp with the stock lower unit and was thinking of upgrading to a low water pickup style lower. What are my options?
Thanks

[RitcheyRch]

I would like to add a nose cone with the low water pick-up on my Evinrude. Al Stoker told me would be difficult on my Lightning ET Gear Case.
Who does the nose cones besides Bobs Machine?

[Tom Brown]

Any Mercury V6 gear case will work on any V6 outboard. Even the earliest lower units with the preload pin will work on a 2.5.
A nose cone, CLE, or Sportmaster will slow you down, though.

[DAVEO]

My 2.5 200 has a cle low water pick up. Its great for what I do.

[Tom Brown]

Im curious as how that will be the case as I really want to put low water pick-up on my boat as I'm starting to run my motor up higher and I just want to eliminate the possibility of really hurting it.
If you're jacking high, you need a LWP. That's why I went to a nose cone.
If hardlyworkin is running his 150 burried, he's going to lose a few mph with a cone.
By the way, I installed a Bob's cone myself and found it wasn't a big deal.
http://www.carlsonspeed.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=49

[hardlyworkin]

If you're jacking high, you need a LWP. That's why I went to a nose cone.
If hardlyworkin is running his 150 burried, he's going to lose a few mph with a cone.
By the way, I installed a Bob's cone myself and found it wasn't a big deal.
http://www.carlsonspeed.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=49
As of right now it is buried, however I am going to add a jack and want to add the LWP before I start jacking it.

[Tom Brown]

As of right now it is buried, however I am going to add a jack and want to add the LWP before I jacking it.
That's cool. If you're going to jack high, with the prop shaft close to the bottom of the boat, you need a LWP.
If you don't want to jack that high, you can go pretty high by simply plugging the top two inlet holes on each side of the gear case with epoxy (JB Weld, or whatever).

[hardlyworkin]

Thanks for that link TomBrown, that install looks doable.

[Tom Brown]

I didn't mention, but maybe should, you need a water pressure gauge if you're going to jack. .... and, as far as I'm concerned, you also need one if you don't jack.

[stoker2001]

By the way, I installed a Bob's cone myself and found it wasn't a big deal.
http://www.carlsonspeed.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=49You must love doing bodywork and have all the specialty tools for the job.To do it right you need to tig or heli arc aluminum welder for tac welds,then it is real critical to get it square and vertical placement is important, then the mess of sanding a filling for endless hours to make it look good:confused: For $360 (includes parts and labor) plus shipping at BOBs Machine they come back looking factory trick with a two year warrantee for chipping and peeling.Trust me it is not even worth it for the typical Joe

[Tom Brown]

You must love doing bodywork and have all the specialty tools for the job.
I don't mind body work and I do have quite a few tools. I should have listed the tools required in that post.
Required tools:
- DA sander & 40 grit paper
- 3 x 17 plastic long board (the wooden/aluminum long board won't flex to the contour)
- equipment to spray epoxy primer (compressor, filtration, guns, external air breathing aparatus)
- soft back pad for hand sanding
Materials:
- long hair polyester filler
- metal glaze
To do it right you need to tig or heli arc aluminum welder for tac welds,then it is real critical to get it square and vertical placement is important,...
Why does everyone think Bob's Machine has a class 1000 clean room full of Japanese scientists wearing lab coats with doctoral degrees using lasers to align nose cones? They don't. In fact, I am confident my cone is more accurately installed than the average Bob's install job. I'm sure the average Bob's job is fine, it's just not the holy grail of quality and accuracy.
then the mess of sanding a filling for endless hours to make it look good:confused:
It took approximately 4 hours to get the cone on, body work done, and prepped for paint. The vast majority of that time was spent waiting for materials to set so I could resume sanding/shaping.
As far as contouring it goes, Bob's ships a profile template that is a nice help for getting it just right.
I filled the lower pickup cavity with polysulfide to keep water from sitting in there, freezing, and breaking the fill out from original pickups. My understanding is, this is something Bob's Machine does not do. It is something that is important to me as my engine freezes every year.
For $360 (includes parts and labor) plus shipping at BOBs Machine they come back looking factory trick with a two year warrantee for chipping and peeling.
I think the Bob's job is acceptible but I wouldn't call it factory trick. I've seen a few and they are fine... but just fine... not factory trick as I think of the term.
Trust me it is not even worth it for the typical Joe
When is the last time someone asked you directly to trust them and they weren't trying to mislead you?
I did my own cone because I wanted to know it was done right. For people in the US who can ship their lower units cheaply, it would probably make sense for almost everyone to ship their low unit to a vendor for installation. It is not trivial. It's not real hard though. At least, it's not difficult if you are OK at body work.

[Towndrunk]

I didn't mention, but maybe should, you need a water pressure gauge if you're going to jack. .... and, as far as I'm concerned, you also need one if you don't jack.
Where do you mount the gauge and does it hurt? I can't believe I have been jacking all these years without this safety precaution!:D :D

[Tom Brown]

In your case, I recommend you mount the gauge as far up your ass as your boyfriend can reach. Don't worry about the pain... you'll learn to enjoy it in time. :D

[stoker2001]

Thomas,you make good points.The tac welding job alone is not doable for the average Joe IMHO.You dont want to skip the welding job as if you hit something (floating debris) or worse, the cone will crack at parting line and possibly come off (dont ask me how i know this).I still say for most,to save youself the stress,mess and headaches.Its not that much $ in our "break out another thousand" hobby

[Forkin' Crazy]

For $360 (includes parts and labor) plus shipping at BOBs Machine they come back looking factory trick with a two year warrantee for chipping and peeling
Oh yea, I am going to send it all the way back to FL if the paint peels, chips, etc...LOL!!!! Mine did peel. Plus they included a few runs at no charge. :rolleyes:
What makes you think a tack weld will hold up? I epoxied one of mine on and hit a log over 80. Besides being smashed, it was in good shape with no cracking. I had to heat it with a torch and beat the shit out of it before it came off. Its replacement made it 5 years before the gears ate themselves and the case too. If you do it right, and use enough high strength epoxy, it will last.

[DAVEO]

Just buy a lower with the lwp. Then there is no question of when is it going to break.

[stoker2001]

Oh yea, I am going to send it all the way back to FL if the paint peels, chips, etc...LOL!!!! Mine did peel. Plus they included a few runs at no charge. :rolleyes:
What makes you think a tack weld will hold up? I epoxied one of mine on and hit a log over 80. Besides being smashed, it was in good shape with no cracking. I had to heat it with a torch and beat the shit out of it before it came off. Its replacement made it 5 years before the gears ate themselves and the case too. If you do it right, and use enough high strength epoxy, it will last.Bobs did my drag XR6 case with extended weld on torque tab and the fit and finish was perfect and no cracks chipping or peeling after six seasons with plenty of 115 mph passes.The cone kit alone will set you back $160.00 so they are doing the labor for $200.00 which includes tapping and drilling for the water hose.Just my opinion,and i have done one myself in the past and would never ever consider doing one again:confused: What is your time worth?the average joe will spend at least a weekend doing one

[Forkin' Crazy]

I checked the website and the cone kit alone is $160 and installed it's $379. PLUS SHIPPING! Well, I hold a sort of pride that I build everything and assembled everything myself. If you can't do it and have pockets full of money, by all means send it off!!! What ever cranks your tractor!:rolleyes:
BTW Bob's isn't the only place that does it.
http://www.low-h2o.com/mercury.htm
http://www.hydromotive.com/nosecones.html

[Forkin' Crazy]

Just buy a lower with the lwp. Then there is no question of when is it going to break.
Unless you have an OMC, then you have to have one bonded on or adapt a merc lower to it.

[Tom Brown]

Unless you have an OMC, then you have to have one bonded on or adapt a merc lower to it.
Yeah.
I have a CLE but prefer a fishing engine lower with Wayne Taylor's bearing carrier and a Bob's cone. Not all lower unit profiles are the same, in my opinion.

[Forkin' Crazy]

Yeah.
I have a CLE but prefer a fishing engine lower with Wayne Taylor's bearing carrier and a Bob's cone. Not all lower unit profiles are the same, in my opinion.
Tom, you do know that Titus (the first link I posted) wacks off the nose of the CLE and puts a cone on it. http://www.low-h2o.com/images/Mercury/800s/merc6.jpg
It lengthens the profile and makes it more stable. He also does Sportmaster mods that increase handling. I think he fully welds everything, not just tacs.

[Tom Brown]

I hold a sort of pride that I build everything and assembled everything myself.
I've long admired the work you do, Paul.
You've shared a lot with the community over the years and I've learned a great deal. Thanks.

[Tom Brown]

Tom, you do know that Titus (the first link I posted) wacks off the nose of the CLE and puts a cone on it. It lengthens the profile and makes it more stable.
Thanks, Paul. I didn't know.
Maybe I should have my CLE done. Doesn't Bob's Machine have a cone for the CLE too? Maybe I should look at doing that. My CLE is polished though, so I hessitate to modify it too much but if it improves my handling, I'll chop it however I need to.
.... so .... do you recommend I send the case in or put a cone on myself? :D :D :D

[Forkin' Crazy]

I've long admired the work you do, Paul.
You've shared a lot with the community over the years and I've learned a great deal. Thanks.
Thanks Tom. I appreciate the complement. Anything I can help you with, just ask! :D
I am doing another cowling, this one a bit different. It has to be/look stock to meet the class, if I ever get around to racing it. Time for another article. I also am going to retire my old cowling (from the "Smoothing a Cowl" article) and am going to make a mold from it. :jawdrop:

[Forkin' Crazy]

Thanks, Paul. I didn't know.
Maybe I should have my CLE done. Doesn't Bob's Machine have a cone for the CLE too? Maybe I should look at doing that. My CLE is polished though, so I hessitate to modify it too much but if it improves my handling, I'll chop it however I need to.
.... so .... do you recommend I send the case in or put a cone on myself? :D :D :D
Not sure if Bob's makes one. I bet you could just take a torch and an aluminum rod and just tac it on. :idea:

[Tom Brown]

Time for another article.
I would love to throw something together. If you post the pics, I'll do what I can with it... and then you can tell me how I focked it up and how to fix it. :D

[Forkin' Crazy]

Bobs did my drag XR6 case with extended weld on torque tab and the fit and finish was perfect and no cracks chipping or peeling after six seasons with plenty of 115 mph passes.
Hey stoker2001, if you like tac welding, you will really like it if it is welded all the way around!!!:idea:
Custom Marine and Welding's precise gearcase work takes nose cone and torque tab modifications to a higher level. We use a cast cone geared towards the high-performance racing and bass boating industry. What makes Custom Marine and Welding's nosecone installations unique and a cut above the rest are a few of the following features; complete welding (opposed to tack welding), and a blended built-in water transfer tube (opposed to the exposed tubing and elbows so commonly seen on other cones). The cone fits closely to the gearcase sidewalls, requiring less body filler, shaping and sanding to obtain a perfect hydrodynamic profile. Attaching the cone to the gearcase with a full perimeter weld leaves no gaps in the assembly and ensures that the cone and gearcase becomes one inseparable unit. In addition, these features produce a high quality custom factory-installed look to the completed job. We are known for producing the world's fastest gearcase.
You get one of these, and who knows, you might make it to 116mph!!! ;)

[LakeTrash]

I have had every other option in lower units and nose cones except Custom Marine and Welding's unit. I just sent a standard 2.5 unit to them so I will let ya'll know how it works out.
LT

[Towndrunk]

mazco also makes a cone that is said to be very good and it's only $100 plus shipping. It's called the Mazcone and is not on their site but just ask them for it.
Bob's screwed up the one I had done as it peeled also. I put them on myself and they are not that hard to do. I'm going to gelcoat the next one instead of using paint. We'll see how it works.

[RitcheyRch]

Anyone know if there is someone in So. Cal that does these?

[Tom Brown]

I think stoker2001 is in SoCal. Maybe he'll do it for you. :D

[stoker2001]

\So,how does Titus,Hydromotive and custom Marine compare to Bobs in Price Parts and labor?I know Titus does very good quality,but a little overpriced IMO.I just found a tiny crack in my skeg after putting this blown hemi hydro on the trailer in the final round of the IHBA Supernationals last weekend.Nice $1500.00 in prize money and contingencies.I can afford to cone another XR6 case now.:)
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/Sun5_0044.jpg

[Tom Brown]

This ain't a scene. It's a God damn arms race.

[Forkin' Crazy]

\So,how does Titus,Hydromotive and custom Marine compare to Bobs in Price Parts and labor?I know Titus does very good quality,but a little overpriced IMO.I just found a tiny crack in my skeg after putting this blown hemi hydro on the trailer in the final round of the IHBA Supernationals last weekend.Nice $1500.00 in prize money and contingencies.I can afford to cone another XR6 case now.:)
That is very cool. Congratulations!!! :cool: You know, I was going to say something about the welded on torque tab on a Merc. They are apt to crack and break the skeg. Something about the alloy they were/are? using. It was explained to me as a when thing, not an if thing. Too bad that money is going to Mr. Merc and not in your pocket. :idea:
Wouldn't a Titus gearcase be worth the extra duckies? You may have been a few extra $$$ ahead if you did. :idea: