cavatation plate sealing

[v-drive]

putting the plates back on the lavey tonight and was wondering if I shouyld put a sealer all over or just around the holes like it appears to have been done in the past...Thanks v-drive

[stickmann]

Use 3M 5200 or a good substitute like Sikaflex around the holes and on the chamfer of the flat head screws, otherwise getting the plates off again will be a chore. Don't go overboard on sealant. You want the plates tight to the hull not wandering on sealant.

[Racey]

Yep 5200 is some bad ass shit, it makes one hell of a mess though so try your best to be tidy with it, acetone will clean it up pretty well. It takes 7 days to really dry, and will continue curing for a month after that.

[slow450]

What number Sikaflex do you recommend? Do you use the same Sikaflex or 3M for installation of other underwater components; shaft log, stuffing box, gas tanks (attach bolts) and strut?
Thanks
Slow

[Racey]

We normally use Marine-Tex to seal cav-plates, transom bosses, shaft logs bases etc. 3m 5200 will work also, but it will stay somewhat gummy and flexible where marine-tex is epoxy and will cure hard, the only way to break marine-tex loose is with a torch and heat. 5200 might be a little easier to disassemble if you ever had to, although it's some pretty resilient stuff and still wont be any walk in the park if you ever had to take it apart.

[slow450]

Do you put any type sealer, like permatex between the Marine-Tex and the component? What is the assembly sequence? Do you allow the Marine-Tex to cure (assuming you are not using any other sealer) before you torque down the bolts? I am probably making this more difficult than it should be. Thank you for your help.
Slow

[GofastRacer]

The only time you need sealer is if you're going to get the part anodized after mocking it up, then you use mold release on the part so it will not stick when the Marine-Tex cures, but like a shaft log you just put it on and tighten it up, clean around the edges and done deal!..