water injection shut off valve

[76miller]

Does anybody have pics that they can post, or explain the best way to plumb a line, from the Bassett T fitting up to the drivers seat to shut off your water injected to the headers. Also, did you see much of any gains when running WOT with out the water ? Thanks

[BOOGEYMAN]

I was thinking of doing the same thing!! Anyone have any pic's or results???
Travis.

[FuelInMyVeins82]

http://www.rexmar.com/page228.html
top one is nice for a simple set up

[502 JET]

Does anybody have pics that they can post, or explain the best way to plumb a line, from the Bassett T fitting up to the drivers seat to shut off your water injected to the headers. Also, did you see much of any gains when running WOT with out the water ? Thanks
Take the feed line off the Tee and run it up to the manual valve, then out of the manual valve back to the Basset Tee.
You only need a mist of water coming out the exhaust. You don't need water pouring out out of it.
You should be running two lines out of your thermostat housing for water out. One line to the Basset Tee and the other through a gate valve and over board. Adjusting the gate valve will control how much water goes to the headers or over board.
When I got my boat the guy had no dump line and had all the water leaving the engine through the headers, no dump line. When I added the dump and fed the exhaust with less water there was no difference on the GPS.
I never tried no water at all though.

[76miller]

Thanks for the info guys.
Hey FuelInMyVeins, do you have a red Rogers that was out at Ming this weekend ? I was wondering what kind of shoe your running ? I'm trying to get more lift and not sure if I'm going about it in the correct way. My Miller just left MPD last week and I'm trying to dial it in.

[FuelInMyVeins82]

Thanks for the info guys.
Hey FuelInMyVeins, do you have a red Rogers that was out at Ming this weekend ? I was wondering what kind of shoe your running ? I'm trying to get more lift and not sure if I'm going about it in the correct way. My Miller just left MPD last week and I'm trying to dial it in.
ya thats mine. I saw your boat down at jacks, it looked nice. I need to double check but I believe I am running 2* of back cut in the Rogers. How ever from what I understand the Millers have more rocker than the Rogers do so you need to be a little more careful w/ the set up. What ever Jack set you up w/ is probably pretty close. What kind of power are you making?

[76miller]

Riodog, Thanks for the heads up. The setup that 502 is suggesting, wouldn't the valve in the closed position just force all the water to the dump line overboard ? How would you do it ? My pump is very built, nothing stock about it, and I'm running 600hp + and nos is in the future.Thanks for any help.76miller.

[76miller]

Fuel, thanks.. ya that was mine at Jacks. I was really happy with how it turned out. I also have 2* backcut in my shoe. I ran it in Parker this past sun/mon and it felt good but I was trying to get a little more lift with the shims he made me, not sure If its working though. It probably is, but its hard to tell with out video how dry I'm even running. What loader grate are you running ?

[FuelInMyVeins82]

Fuel, thanks.. ya that was mine at Jacks. I was really happy with how it turned out. I also have 2* backcut in my shoe. I ran it in Parker this past sun/mon and it felt good but I was trying to get a little more lift with the shims he made me, not sure If its working though. It probably is, but its hard to tell with out video how dry I'm even running. What loader grate are you running ?
Ya I would definitely get video of the boat before you put more shoe in it. It may be freeer than you think.
From what I understand the shims do not increase lift. What they do is lower the bitting edge of the shoe w/ allows it to "scoop" more water into the intake. However if you lower the shoe to far in the water the shut down might get very interesting especially at the river. If you want to gain more lift from the shoe you need to increase to angle in it (ie 2.5* of back cut) As far as the loader goes I'm just running the standard MPD loader.
If you really want to get into tunning your miller you should look into the River Racer class. The 200 bux is well worth it for what you learn. You may already know most of this but I figured I would be thorough.

[76miller]

Fuel, I'm going out there again this weekend so I will try to take some video and post it. Jack made me some shims for the ride plate/cradle and also some that go under the shoe. Wouldn't that increase backcut if I add under the shoe? I'm also having a hard time figuring out were the best notch is on my diverter. I usually have it all the way down to the bottom notch for hole shot, then put it in the #3 or#4 notch for the rest of the pass. Does this sound right for this hull ? How do you usually operate when your making a pass in the Rogers.

[76miller]

The River Racer class sounds like a blast, and learning my setup would totally be worth $200 bucks but It would be pretty pathetic when I make a 85mph pass ! lol.

[FuelInMyVeins82]

Fuel, I'm going out there again this weekend so I will try to take some video and post it. Jack made me some shims for the ride plate/cradle and also some that go under the shoe. Wouldn't that increase backcut if I add under the shoe? I'm also having a hard time figuring out were the best notch is on my diverter. I usually have it all the way down to the bottom notch for hole shot, then put it in the #3 or#4 notch for the rest of the pass. Does this sound right for this hull ? How do you usually operate when your making a pass in the Rogers.
Ya video would be insane.
As far as the shoe shims go they increase the depth of the shoe but not the angle that is machined into it. The post I just bumped may help you out a little there a lot of good info in there.
As far as the PD is concerned I run a hydraulic one w/ stops so it is hard to say. When I am making a pass and the boat is on plain the roost is about even w/ the bottom of the scoop. I would talk to RCB19. He has Rogers that was making about the same power as yours w/ a manual PD and ran 93mph. Buy him a case of Key Stone and he might help you out. Don't get to crazy w/ that thing until you know what she looks like. Have fun this weekend.

[76miller]

Cool, thanks for all the input, I'll skim through that thread. I would be pretty happy to get 90mph out of her ! I might be buying some Keystone !

[502 JET]

Riodog, Thanks for the heads up. The setup that 502 is suggesting, wouldn't the valve in the closed position just force all the water to the dump line overboard ? How would you do it ? My pump is very built, nothing stock about it, and I'm running 600hp + and nos is in the future.Thanks for any help.76miller.
This is why I run my water lines like I suggested.
I copied these instructions off Basset's web site. Pay close attention to #6.
Jet Water Injected Installation
1. Install stainless steel lines to headers.
2. Install headers on engine.
3. Make sure there is no thermostat in the housing or any other type of
water temperature control.
4. Install "T" stainless steel control valve in one line of the two lines
on the thermostat housing. Connect the "T" end to header. Lines
to headers should be approximately 2 feet long.
5. The other line from the thermostat housing is your by-pass line.
Run it overboard with a 1/2" brass plumbing type gate valve.
6. The gate valve is necessary so that you can regulate the amount
of water you discharge. It also is to regulate what RPM your water
is injected into the headers. Example: gate valve is wide open and
water comes in at 3000 RPM. To make the water come in at 1500
to 2000, close gate valve approximately 1/3.
I don't run a pressure regulator & I never had any water in my oil. In other applications a regulator may be needed depending on block pressures.

[FuelInMyVeins82]

Cool, thanks for all the input, I'll skim through that thread. I would be pretty happy to get 90mph out of her ! I might be buying some Keystone !
LOL He would be stoked send him a PM

[vee-driven]

wayne, i have what your lookin for and damn for a "car guy" i sure do have a ton of boat shit! LOL

[76miller]

Pat, thanks anyways (smart a$$) I don't think the benefits will be worth the hassle of plumbing the line. I heard the 461ci. is getting close.
Wayne

[whiskey & water]

http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/header_cooling.jpg

[vee-driven]

Pat, thanks anyways (smart a$$) I don't think the benefits will be worth the hassle of plumbing the line. I heard the 461ci. is getting close.
Wayne
Its getting there and we should both be happy, i wont have to fuk with it anymore and the funny thing is i am doing it for free and loosing money and it wasn't even my boat. Yes there are things in life that are fukt and this is one of them.

[dragboat]

Works great. Sorry the immage is so big.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/3277dougs_camera_012.jpg

[TeamHawaiin]

I bought a real nice tunnel hull off of EBAY just two weeks ago. It has a Marine Max 350 Chevy. This boat was used in freshwater only. Now that I have it in primarily a saltwater environment, I need to install a valve that I can flush the engine with my garden hose. According to the diagram, can I put a three way valve in place of the first ball valve out of the pump? One way for salt water, the other way for fresh water flush. My hose routing looks almost identical to the diagram. If installing the threeway valve in this spot is correct, I would have to run the engine, then start the flush, because I would imagine if I started the flush first, water would force its way into the headers and drain back into an open exhaust valve. Could I just shut off the valve to the headers and let the flush go on for as long as I want? I would prefer this because I don't want the pump running without water too long. Which is another question, how long can you safely run the pump without water? Any inputs on this would greatly be appreciated. Sorry this post is so wordy, but I'm trying to cover the whole deal in one shot. I'll post a boat pic next time.

[tx-19]

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