Chassis Dyno

[HOSS]

Looking to purchase a chassis dyno. Figurred this is a pretty good place to start to find out some more info on them. I don`t mind above ground but would rather sink it.

[Youngblood]

Two of the better known brands:
http://www.dynojet.com/automotive_dyno/index.aspx
http://www.mustangdyne.com/performancetuning.htm
Dynojet is pretty much the industry standard.

[Sleeper CP]

Try looking on RacingJunk.com
Sleeper CP

[pw_Tony]

A dyno for a car or what?

[2dasand]

I used to own a Mustang 1750, in ground. Good to 1750 RWHP, and 225MPH. If I were to do it over again, I would buy another one. Many people don't like the Mustangs, because they do not give as high a number as a Dynojet. We fought that alot. I can say this, it was the most repeatable dyno I have payed with. Same vehicle, 2 months later in totally different weather conditions and it was never more than a couple of HP different. The load features were awesome, and very handy for tuning. We had about 1200 Hp to the rollers, and that was a handful! Good luck!

[HOSS]

I am looking at the 750 mustang.

[HOSS]

Just got off the phone with Tim at ME and looks like I`m rolling with the 1100 SE. Single eddy. I will be able to run duallies without removing the outer tire.

[STV_Keith]

What kind of vehicles/power ranges are you looking at testing? A Dynojet 224 with a load cell is a great bang for the buck. I know a local guy bought a used one without the load cell for $15k. Have dynoed up to 1300rwhp on it so far...twin turbo Viper.

[Sleeper CP]

Hey Hoss,
I just checked Racingjunk.Com and there are 3 Mustang dyno's for sale from $29k to $35K they look like good units. You might want to check them out, just do a search on the home page. At least one of them is in your neck of the woods.
Sleeper CP

[N281PONY]

There was a guy in Houston that that had a 1750 for sale. He had an add on HotRodGossip. I will see if I can find it.

[N281PONY]

Here's the ad
Subject: Mustang 1750-DE Chassis Dyno For Sale
Author:
Tom
[Edit] Date Posted: 21:46:20 06/19/07 Tue
I have a Mustang Dyno 1750-DE chassis dyno for sale. It is like new, has less than 20 hours on it. This is a in ground unit complete with computer.This dyno allows 1/4 and 1/8 mile pulls from a dead stop and gives times and speed. Cost over $50,000 new. Check Mustang Dyno web site for specs. $29,000 gets it. 870-355-0149

[STV_Keith]

Bunch of Mustangs for sale...hmmm, wonder why?
Better check into that Dynojet. :D

[HOSS]

Here's the ad
Subject: Mustang 1750-DE Chassis Dyno For Sale
Author:
Tom
[Edit] Date Posted: 21:46:20 06/19/07 Tue
I have a Mustang Dyno 1750-DE chassis dyno for sale. It is like new, has less than 20 hours on it. This is a in ground unit complete with computer.This dyno allows 1/4 and 1/8 mile pulls from a dead stop and gives times and speed. Cost over $50,000 new. Check Mustang Dyno web site for specs. $29,000 gets it. 870-355-0149
I saw that one on racejunk. The 1750 won`t allow you to run duallies unless you remove both outer rims.

[HOSS]

I used to own a Mustang 1750, in ground. Good to 1750 RWHP, and 225MPH. If I were to do it over again, I would buy another one. Many people don't like the Mustangs, because they do not give as high a number as a Dynojet. We fought that alot. I can say this, it was the most repeatable dyno I have payed with. Same vehicle, 2 months later in totally different weather conditions and it was never more than a couple of HP different. The load features were awesome, and very handy for tuning. We had about 1200 Hp to the rollers, and that was a handful! Good luck!
Why did you get rid of it?

[2dasand]

I saw that one on racejunk. The 1750 won`t allow you to run duallies unless you remove both outer rims.
That is what they told us, but we were a diesel shop. We discovered that you could get 3 of the 4 tires on the rollers, and let the outside one hang off without having to remove it. We started off removing one, and slowly grew some ballz. It was scary to let one hang off, but in the rush of doing dyno days, we had to figure it out, and slowly learned. After a while, it was no big deal.

[2dasand]

I did not get rid of it, I got out of my 1/2 of the business. I miss the dyno the most!

[HOSS]

That is what they told us, but we were a diesel shop. We discovered that you could get 3 of the 4 tires on the rollers, and let the outside one hang off without having to remove it. We started off removing one, and slowly grew some ballz. It was scary to let one hang off, but in the rush of doing dyno days, we had to figure it out, and slowly learned. After a while, it was no big deal.
So you would go with a 1750 or an 1100 if you were to do it all over again? Did you get an optioned out 1750.

[STV_Keith]

Sounds like you're set on the MD. We have a Dynojet here. Let me know if you want to know anything.

[HOSS]

I read an article in Hot Rod about both dyno`s. The dynojet is an inertia drum and the Mustang is both inertia and magnet.

[STV_Keith]

Dynojet offers both too.
Here's the breakdown:
224x - inertia only (load upgradeable), 24" drum, 1500rwhp/200mph limits: http://www.dynojet.com/automotive_dyno/224x_dyno/index.aspx
224xLC - inertia and load control, same drum and limits as above: http://www.dynojet.com/automotive_dyno/224xLC_dyno/index.aspx
248x - inertia only, 48" drum, 2000+rwhp/tq/200mph limits. Official dyno of NASCAR. Wide drum spacing for running duallies available (that's what we have here): http://www.dynojet.com/automotive_dyno/248x_dyno/index.aspx
Then they also offer variations of both in 4wd configurations.

[HOSS]

On the 248 did you sink it or use a rack? What was the cost with wide drums and software?
Thanks,
James

[STV_Keith]

Ours is in the ground. I have used them both ways. Those dyno's started out at 19k back in 1995...They are in the low to mid 30's now with the Hardware EX, no options for a new one.
Ours was the first wide dyno, and since they did a deal with Dynojet, I have no idea what it should have cost. I believe the "wide" option is still available though. Just call over there and talk to Keith Royle...he's the sale Mgr.
The 248's do not have the eddy current option though...too much inertia for it to control.

[HOSS]

How much did you spend on the 248 optioned out?

[STV_Keith]

Again, because ours was a prototype, and we helped them bring it to market, we got a good discount. At the time, it would have been about $29,500 to buy it with the software, brand new from DJ (1999). Today they are a little more expensive.

[HOSS]

Hell, the mustang will option me (in the ground) around 40 I figure. Hope the parts aren`t made in China. U.S. may be finally assin` up to them and the trade deficit might just equal out in the near future.

[STV_Keith]

How big is the roller? That's the biggest complaint I have seen in the past. Mustang's can't hold on to the big HP because their roller is small diameter. The larger the roller diameter, the flatter the contact patch for the tire. Also, you don't want a dual roller, since as the power is applied, the vehicle will "drive up" on the front roller and load it harder. This deflects the sidewall more, building more heat (especially a problem with soft sidewall tires like drag radials, ET streets and slicks).
If you want a load-capable dyno, then the 224x is the DJ option you would look at. One other nice thing...you can buy a 224x now, and add the load control option later, to spread out the cost if need be.
Oh, and DJ's stuff is all US made (frame, drum/roller, software and hardware are all built in Montana).

[N281PONY]

[QUOTE=STV_Keith;2647729]How big is the roller? That's the biggest complaint I have seen in the past. Mustang's can't hold on to the big HP because their roller is small diameter. The larger the roller diameter, the flatter the contact patch for the tire. Also, you don't want a dual roller, since as the power is applied, the vehicle will "drive up" on the front roller and load it harder. This deflects the sidewall more, building more heat (especially a problem with soft sidewall tires like drag radials, ET streets and slicks).
How many straps (hold down) are you using with the DJ. We've found out that on a MD with a small tire car (radial and true 10.5) when you get a little over 1,000hp it will start hazing the tire but, if you add 2 more straps (with floor mounting points about a foot behind the rollers. You can pull the vehicle down more and no spin. So fare haven't had problems holding down a 1400hp radial car this way. You are so right about the tire heat but, after you make a pull you need to let the tranny cool anyway but, we eat up a set of tires every time we go to the dyno.

[STV_Keith]

Just need 2 straps in each direction (2 more criss crossed for FWD or big HP cars). The object is not to add load to the tire with the straps (load = heat and friction that the car/tire doesn't have on the street), but rather just to keep the vehicle centered on the dyno.

[STV_Keith]

Here's a video of a decent HP car. ;)
Dyno Video (http://www.youtube.com/v/EZJAHR-6eSQ)

[N281PONY]

The car is strapped down the same way I'm talking about (the 2 center straps on the rear). Whats the deal with the strap in the door?

[STV_Keith]

Wrapped around the roll bar to make sure if it spun, it couldn't move sideways at all. On the slicks, it didn't spin at all...on street tires previously, when it achieve peak torque (about 1700ft-lbs at 4200rpm), it would spin some.

[HOSS]

N281Pony, what shop is this you are referring too? Also STV_Keith this info is much appreciated. I am looking at the DJ as well. MD has a large drum unit as well but I don`t believe its available except for their "balls out" model. And I won`t be able to run duallies unless removing the outer wheel.

[HOSS]

Dynojet is recommending I get the 224xLE

[STV_Keith]

You mean LC (load control)? If so, yeah, you can, but that's a big step in money. You can always buy a 224x now, and add the load control stuff later...the dyno is upgradeable in the field. Whatever works for you and fits your budget. :)

[HOSS]

What would be my pro`s and cons on getting a load controler. I would need one for tuning purposes I know but not for hp runs correct?

[STV_Keith]

Correct. The LC allows you to load the vehicle down to simulate uphill/towing, etc, or to hold it at one RPM and vary throttle to get to all the cells of a fuel/timing table. Without it, WOT dyno testing still works fine.

[N281PONY]

N281Pony, what shop is this you are referring too? Also STV_Keith this info is much appreciated. I am looking at the DJ as well. MD has a large drum unit as well but I don`t believe its available except for their "balls out" model. And I won`t be able to run duallies unless removing the outer wheel.
Buddy of mines shop (Schexnayder Racing)...right outside of Lafayette. He has had and engine dyno for years and finally broke down and got a chassis.

[rrrr]

Hoss, dunno if this is what you want, but....
http://dallas.craigslist.org/tls/363682667.html

[HOSS]

Thats a nice long rack there. But for 60k,,he`ll be sitting on it for quite some time.
Thanks for looking for me though. I`m gonna get a new one this way I have manufacturer tech support. And a warranty.

[HOSS]

Also looking at the 600 from Mustang.

[HOSS]

A customer just called me,,,me guys put a 373 in a 8.8 Mustang rear,,and it humms when you let off the pedale. Yeah,,,,,,I`m ready.

[N281PONY]

A customer just called me,,,me guys put a 373 in a 8.8 Mustang rear,,and it humms when you let off the pedale. Yeah,,,,,,I`m ready.
Must have used a Richmond Gear...little more work to set-up than a Motorsport Gear :) :)

[HOSS]

I really like the 600, just for the wide rollers and duallie capabilities.