Spun a bearing

[Crossbow_CA]

After pulling the engine apart I found that the cause of my engine knock is from a spun rod bearing. There is a lot of very fine metal shavings all over everything. Do I have to completely disassemble the engine to clean it all out, or can it be done on the stand without removing the heads and intake?
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[obnoxious001]

You are going to need to pull it all apart, not only to clean the metal out of the block, but to do the necessary work to the crankshaft and rod or rods that were affected, at the very least.

[Crossbow_CA]

I thought as much, thanks

[wsuwrhr]

ABSOLUTELY.
Not to mention the crank will most likely have to be turned. You are in store for a complete build.
Do I have to completely disassemble the engine to clean it all out

[wsuwrhr]

You are going to need to pull it all apart, not only to clean the metal out of the block, but to do the necessary work to the crankshaft and rod or rods that were affected, at the very least.
Oooopppsss, yea what he said.

[pw_Tony]

And once it's turned it might be nice to get the rods honed and to balance everything again

[HammerDown]

Don't forget to pull...(all)...the oil galley plugs when you clean/flush the block!

[LakesOnly]

I found that the cause of my engine knock is from a spun rod bearing. There is a lot of very fine metal shavings all over everything. Do I have to completely disassemble the engine to clean it all out, or can it be done on the stand without removing the heads and intake? Fully disassemble the engine and thoroughly clean every individual component, this includes disassembling cleaning and inspecing your oil pump and cleaning your pickup tube
Measure everything and correct/repair/replace individual components as needed
Assuming you regrind the crankshaft but use the same part numbers for your reciprocating assembly, there is absolutely no need to rebalance the rotating assembly, however it may be necessary to weight match any new reciprocating components (that replace the damaged reciprocating compnents) with those components that are being re-used
Open up the oil pump mounting pad-to-filter pad from 1/2-inch to 9/16-inch as outlined on the High Flow Dynamics Technical Pages (www.highflowdynamics.net/).
During reassembly, be sure to install the oil gallery plugs as specified HERE (http://www.***boat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122827&highlight=).
I can help with crankshafts, rods, blocks, and oil pumps, if you need any such parts and are having trouble locating them.
LO

[058]

Do not reuse the rod that the spun the bearing. No matter what the machinist says about reconditioning that rod it seems they are never quite right after. Maybe for a passenger car engine that never sees the high side of 3000 rpms but for something that sees 4500-5500 rpm for long periods of time I would not take a chance to save a few bucks on re-doing that rod. I would go as far to get a set of Eagles or Scat rods and eliminate any chance of another stock rod going south.

[Ralph Brunt]

Fully disassemble the engine and thoroughly clean every individual component, this includes disassembling cleaning and inspecing your oil pump and cleaning your pickup tube
Measure everything and correct/repair/replace individual components as needed
Assuming you regrind the crankshaft but use the same part numbers for your reciprocating assembly, there is absolutely no need to rebalance the rotating assembly, however it may be necessary to weight match any new reciprocating components (that replace the damaged reciprocating compnents) with those components that are being re-used
Open up the oil pump mounting pad-to-filter pad from 1/2-inch to 9/16-inch as outlined on the High Flow Dynamics Technical Pages (www.highflowdynamics.net/).
During reassembly, be sure to install the oil gallery plugs as specified HERE (http://www.***boat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122827&highlight=).
I can help with crankshafts, rods, blocks, and oil pumps, if you need any such parts and are having trouble locating them.
LO
i allready told him this, good post lakes

[Crossbow_CA]

OK, took the block in to get cleaned, replaced the rod on the spun bearing, replaced a piston that had cracked up the skirt, reground the crank, Got Clevite 77 bearings, and will be getting a new high volume oil pump. I would like to get a jet boat oil pan if I can find one used (the budget is getting pretty slim). If someone has one let me know ASAP. I have a complete Olds 455 with dooley pan high torque starter, basset headers, etc to trade/sell parts separately.
As far as cleaning the rest of the parts any recommendations? Soak in Gas then soap and water?
And thank you everyone that has guided this far thru my seemingly never ending engine problems.:D

[pw_Tony]

I've bought a 5 gallon tub of choke cleaner to soak all dirty parts. They all came out really clean. But if you're going to do that pour choke cleaner into small buckets so you don't ruin all of it.

[jetboatperformance]

OK, took the block in to get cleaned, replaced the rod on the spun bearing, replaced a piston that had cracked up the skirt, reground the crank, Got Clevite 77 bearings, and will be getting a new high volume oil pump. I would like to get a jet boat oil pan if I can find one used (the budget is getting pretty slim). If someone has one let me know ASAP. I have a complete Olds 455 with dooley pan high torque starter, basset headers, etc to trade/sell parts separately.
As far as cleaning the rest of the parts any recommendations? Soak in Gas then soap and water?
And thank you everyone that has guided this far thru my seemingly never ending engine problems.:D
Crossbow ,I caution you RE considering a HV oil pump if you don't score a large capacity pan. And consider useing mineral spirits as cleaner then soap and water (cheap at the hardware store) NEVER use Gas (for your own saftey) Give me a call if I can help you on this (tech) Tom

[058]

OK, took the block in to get cleaned, replaced the rod on the spun bearing, replaced a piston that had cracked up the skirt, reground the crank, Got Clevite 77 bearings, and will be getting a new high volume oil pump. I would like to get a jet boat oil pan if I can find one used (the budget is getting pretty slim). If someone has one let me know ASAP. I have a complete Olds 455 with dooley pan high torque starter, basset headers, etc to trade/sell parts separately.
As far as cleaning the rest of the parts any recommendations? Soak in Gas then soap and water?
And thank you everyone that has guided this far thru my seemingly never ending engine problems.:DYou need to find out why the bearing spun and the piston cracked. That is not something that just happens. I'd seriously look at the tune up before it happens again. Could be the engine was detonating, most likely cause of the carnage you experenced. Look at compression ratio and fuel used, timing, both initial and total, carb and fuel supply, could be that the engine was lean. Don't stop at just sticking a fresh engine in the boat without finding the root cause or you are going to be doing this little excersize again....soon.

[Crossbow_CA]

Cracked piston was caused by a small piece of dist shear pin that wedged it's self between the skirt and cylinder wall. The spun bearing (I'm guessing) was caused from oil starvation. I have a stock 5qt front sump oil pan and noticed the oil pressure drop just about the time the bearing spun. The oil pan gasket blew out and dumped about 2 qts into the bilge just before this happened.:eek:

[Crossbow_CA]

I just found 2 more cracked skirt pistons. They are cracked from the oil ring to the edge of the skirt, any ideas what is causing this? I have Speed Pro Hypereutectic pistons. I am guessing that I should have gotten the forged now :( Can I replace 2 pistons with a Speed Pro Powerforged piston? Or do I have to get exactly the same thing I had in before?

[058]

I just found 2 more cracked skirt pistons. They are cracked from the oil ring to the edge of the skirt, any ideas what is causing this? I have Speed Pro Hypereutectic pistons. I am guessing that I should have gotten the forged now :( Can I replace 2 pistons with a Speed Pro Powerforged piston? Or do I have to get exactly the same thing I had in before?
Now is a good time to switch to forged pistons. Do not mix & match different pistons and dump ALL the Hypereutectics. The Speed-Pro forged might need a couple of thousands more clearance so now is a good oppertunity to torque plate hone the cylinders and freshen up the engine.