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shaun
07-03-2007, 09:30 PM
At what pressure should this thing be opening, i hooked the water up today turned the hose on low and checked for leaks, water was coming out of the dump like it should, i then pressed my finger onto the dump to build some pressure while watching my pressure gauge. At about 10PSI i heard the basset valve click and it started to let water through to the headers. I don't exactly know how much pressure is going to be running through the block at idle from the pump because i never had a pressure guage before, but i know my regulator will only go down to 25 PSI. Is my spring weak, this basset valve is brand new but about 10 years old...

victorfb
07-03-2007, 11:12 PM
if memory serves, 12-15# is set from the factory with a good spring. sounds like yours might be ok, but after 10 years of sitting i would replace it anyhow.

Danhercules
07-04-2007, 05:50 AM
I would replace it and keep a spare. I had one break on me.
You dont want water in the headers at idle. That is why it closes. It should be opening at about 1500 to 2000 RPM. You should then have a fine mist.

502 JET
07-04-2007, 05:53 AM
The tee is fine.
Start with your dump line gate valve wide open and adjust it down in small increments to bring the header water on at your desired rpm's that you want the water injected at. At idle the water should shut off to the headers.

akjet
07-04-2007, 09:59 AM
yah T is good no water below 2000 or you will have reversion another thing u can do is run hose up front from T that then has a gate valve so u cam manually close it off whenever u want to

BrendellaJet
07-04-2007, 12:12 PM
You want that thing opening at around 2000 rpm. Dont go any lower than that.
The watts regulators...while they say the lowest setting is 25lbs, you can see less. On my boat Im only seeing 10lbs right now at 3-4k rpm...Perhaps in a proper setting those pumps can show min of 25 lbs, but in a jet boat that is not the case.

Danhercules
07-04-2007, 07:20 PM
The tee is fine.
Start with your dump line gate valve wide open and adjust it down in small increments to bring the header water on at your desired rpm's that you want the water injected at. At idle the water should shut off to the headers.
I disagee with this. Sorry.
If you start regulating the dump line, you can build too much back pressure and pop a gasket in the motor. Not saying it will happen , but can happen.

502 JET
07-04-2007, 07:49 PM
I disagree with this. Sorry.
If you start regulating the dump line, you can build too much back pressure and pop a gasket in the motor. Not saying it will happen , but can happen.
That's how I had my boat plumbed as suggested by Basset.
Never had any problems with it. Your only regulating/adding a small restriction to the dump to time the header water, not shutting it off.
:idea: Do you think Basset is trying to mislead the boating public by suggesting the installation of the gate valve in the dump line?
Possibly a secret coup :jawdrop: with the gasket manufacturers to get you to buy more gaskets.:)

squirt
07-04-2007, 08:24 PM
Ok this is a spam:idea:
Ever check out one of these?
http://www.banderlog.com/products/waterInjectionValve/images/modualNWires.jpg
http://www.banderlog.com/products/waterInjectionValve/waterInjection.html
Just a thought,
Don

victorfb
07-04-2007, 11:23 PM
Ok this is a spam:idea:
Ever check out one of these?
http://www.banderlog.com/products/waterInjectionValve/images/modualNWires.jpg
http://www.banderlog.com/products/waterInjectionValve/waterInjection.html
Just a thought,
Don
i have, and ran one in the rogers for a while now. great product.
in defense of danhercules post, i think he meant that you need to be cautious about relying on the valve to control the water flow entirely. yes you can add more flow by opening the valve, but now your adding more cooling to the engine. not so good if you are allready at your optimum temp. and vise a versa. the basset T valve works off of water preasure and not rpm. if you set the water valve to its proper rpm to open the T valve, you may be sacreficing or adding water to the engine. in my case with the rogers the basset T valve doesnt open unless i restrict the dump line flow, which creates more block preasure and heat because of the lack of cooling water. the factory spring in the basset T valve may be or may not be right for your application. either trying differant springs (weaker or stronger) or going with the banderlog electronic valve are basically your two options. just dont rely on the water valve for both engine and exhaust cooling.

victorfb
07-04-2007, 11:27 PM
or go with riodogs advise and install a valve near the drivers seat to shut of at low rpm and open at higher. ok, three options.

502 JET
07-05-2007, 06:00 AM
502, it's obvious to this crowd that you probably run nothing more than a stock motor and pump that doesn't give you concern for what the bigboys experience. Do a search and you might learn something.
Rio
Oh I apoligize. Pardon me with my meager 450 hp motor and 75 mph top speed doesn't give much ccredibility. Disregard any of the info I have posted until I prove my self to be one of the "BIGBOYS". I'll be sure to have pictures and video to back up my claims next time.............502:D

Cas
07-05-2007, 07:24 AM
Disregard any of the info I have posted until I prove my self to be one of the "BIGBOYS". I'll be sure to have pictures and video to back up my claims next time.............502:D
just pop an ad on ebay.

502 JET
07-05-2007, 07:28 AM
just pop an ad on ebay.
ROTFLMAO!

Cas
07-05-2007, 08:01 AM
on the Bassett set-up, you should have 2 water dumps from the thermostat housing. 1 is an actual overboard dump with a vlave and the other to the Bassett tee and then to the header injecter lines.

DelawareDave
07-05-2007, 09:11 AM
I don't know anything, but I have a pressure relief valve in the line from the pump, set at 15 psi. McMaster-Carr PN 9763K11. Excess goes straight overboard. Thermo housing has one line going overboard with no restriction, and the other outlet on the thermo housing goes to the Bassett T valve. So far, so good. No water in the oil, no hydrolocked cylinders, so far, anyway. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. :jawdrop:

Jetaholic
07-08-2007, 07:09 AM
Me and a buddy of mine came up with an idea...instead of buying one of those Banderlog valves, we think you could probably make one for much cheaper. Just buy one of MSDs RPM switches and have it control an electric solenoid valve. Set it to 2,000 RPMs and place the solenoid valve in line with the gate valve that feeds the headers.
What do you guys think?

Cas
07-08-2007, 02:40 PM
that idea has been around for a long time as has the idea using the Moroso 12VDC valve and a NOS rpm switch. The Banderlog works and works very well, the failure rate is almost nil and it's easy to install. It's kind of like that Ronco Rotisserie, Set it and Forget it :)

BrendellaJet
07-08-2007, 03:19 PM
that idea has been around for a long time as has the idea using the Moroso 12VDC valve and a NOS rpm switch. The Banderlog works and works very well, the failure rate is almost nil and it's easy to install. It's kind of like that Ronco Rotisserie, Set it and Forget it :)
Yep. this has been done a few times, successfully too. I found an asco valve for like $50 bucks on Ebay(pretty damn sure the moroso valve is also an asco, just private label issue). I will control with an MSD window switch so it comes on at 2500 and goes off at 5000 or so.
The nice thing about the banderlog unit is the cleanliness. Everything is there in one neat package.

Cas
07-08-2007, 07:16 PM
The nice thing about the banderlog unit is the cleanliness. Everything is there in one neat package.
actually, the nice thing about is it's already done and takes very little time to install. With something else, you may spend a little less money but spend a whole lot more time fiddle f*cking around to make it work.
hmmmmm, 30 minutes to install or 2 hrs to possibly get something else to work, my choice is the easy way on this one :)

squirt
07-08-2007, 07:29 PM
Probably should keep my trap shut on this one but I work pretty hard at this. Add a inline water filter, metering valve, and some plumbing, the wireing and your getting fairly close $$$ wise and still not the same amount of options. But like anything else more power to ya if thats your choice;)

Heatseeker
07-08-2007, 07:54 PM
...The nice thing about the banderlog unit is the cleanliness. Everything is there in one neat package.
That's what I'm talking about! Nice and clean, failsafe, some of the best $ I spent. Saves alot of turning around to make sure the water stopped when you let off the throttle. You just know.

Heatseeker
07-08-2007, 08:00 PM
double post