Stainless Steel cav plates?

[CircleJerk]

Ok, here's what I need. Opinions on the steel plates I just removed from the Aqua. Do I replace them with alum or just fix the wrinkle in the one side and polish them? They weigh a ton. I had to remove them to replace the stuffing box. I heard of a guy who made some but they did'nt bend and consequently dont work well. These are eighth inch thick in two pieces. Oh ya, my transome was a mere 3/16 inch thick! I will be bracing it with 3X3 alum angle and have already installed the hefty strut brace. Motor is in and balancer snout drive adapter arrived. Now I have to remove the crankshaft and cut more keyway and reinstall the center pickup oil pan and plumb and wire and I'm done! Think I can finish it in three weeks for Banks? Don't answer that! smile_sp GreasyJeRk

[superdave013]

My schiada has s.s. plates. They work well but you're right. They weight a ton. If I had a s.s. boat like yours I would go for the weight savings for sure!
[ May 23, 2003, 06:00 AM: Message edited by: superdave013 ]

[schiada96]

CJ let me know if you need new alum plates I can shear them up for you

[JRM 1217]

A good thing about polished stainless steel is you never have to polish them.

[DansBlown73Nordic]

I priced having a local guy cut me a new plate for the Nordic...... eek! Lets just say I think he smokes some good stuff.... pig_flyi

[SK48]

Be very careful about making new plates for a fast boat. All race boat aluminium plates have to be cut with a saw. You cannot use a sheer for them. (on a slow daycruiser you could probably use a sheer) The aluminium gets pinched by the sheer at the edges. This compresses the molecules and has a great effect on how the metal bends. If you try and use a set of plates that are sheered the boat does not react like a set of plates cut with a saw. Circle Jerk I know you have been around these boats for along time and probably know this, but maybe some flatbottom owners don't.
Never use a sheer to make cavitation plates. I learned the hard way.

[CircleJerk]

Thanks for the input. SK, I didnt try to fool you, but I guess I did. I have been v-driving for only seven years. So, I am a student in training if, anyone like yourself will take the time to inform me. We could sure use a few folks like you up here to avoid costly mistakes. I didnt know about shearing! We hand cut all the dragster parts in my other mechanical life since we couldnt afford to waste any horsepower money. Used up more than one jig saw! I will try to pound the dent out of the stainless so I can save some time. Racing in three weeks with little or no test time!!!! smile_sp Gotta Go Gotta Go Gotta

[Rexone]

I'd stick with alum on this type of boat because of flexibility. 1/8 stainless is probably flexible enough though. We normally make stainless plates for 21 footers and so on out of T316 3/16 stainless rather than 1/8 inch. We can laser cut them to anyone's drawing including holes and all. Just FYI for future.

[schiada96]

SK 48 what??? we shear .005 alum foil up to .75 crs. We also laser cut if req.I'd like to tell Hughes aircraft this one.

[SK48]

Schiada 96, I've seen your work and it is beautiful and I know you know your stuff.
If you take one aluminium plate that has been sheared, and one that has been cut they don't want to adjust the same. This is especially true on a circle boat like a Biesemeyer where you are putting a gull shape to the plates. I had one plate that had been damaged and replaced on my boat several years ago and it wasn't correct. Phil Bergeron made me two new plates that were sawn and it straighted the boat right out. I know he is very particular about this on there race boats. You might give him a call and ask the specifics.