Jet boat terminology.....help a new guy eh???

[Josh-TSG]

Hey guys, is there a list of definitions of terms for some parts used for jets???
I'm new to jets and am looking at buying my first boat.....considering even a project, as I prefer to build my own stuff.
I'm learning quite a bit by searching here, but a few terms keep coming up, and I don't know what's being talked about....hahaha!:confused: :D
Terms like: droop snout, Aggressor, Place diverter, etc....
I've found a few hulls locally and may just buy a hull and start piecing together a nice jetboat as a winter project....plus I have a few BBC laying around.....:)
Any help with the various terms assocciated with jets and the mods done to them would be GREATLY appreciated!
Help a newb go to the DARK side of jets....he he:D

[BUSBY]

Terms like: droop snout, Aggressor, Place diverter, etc....
Welcome ...
Droop Snoot: a nozzel that bolts to the discharge side of the jet pump that lowers the thrust line into the water about 4-6" ... depending on the mfg of the droop ...
Aggressor: a pump mfg co. that makes pumps, parts, impellers, etc.
Place Diverter: an adjustable pump nozzel that allows the driver to change the angle at which the water comes out of the pump ... good for helping the way a boat handles and for making rooster tails ...
good luck with your new adventure,
Brian

[Josh-TSG]

Thanks Busby...
More terms.....Ride plate??? Wedge??? Any others I'm missing??
I'm sure this is common knowledge for most of you guys.....but I really want to learn what I'll be looking for when scrounging up parts...:D
Also on a related topic.
There seems to be a BIG selection of hulls in the 18'-22' range.....I like the late 60's- early 80's style boats....IE...Tahitis, Hawaiians, Hallets, Sangers, ETC...
Are there any hull manufacturers that I should DEFINITELY steer away from?????

[El Prosecutor]

All you need to know is right here:
Jet Boat Glossary (http://www.***boat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102336&highlight=glossary)

[Josh-TSG]

Thanks for the link......but really not much help.....too much BS. ONE person stepped up with very BASIC stuff........
I guess I'll search the web for the info on other forums.....thanks!

[Sanger Jet]

B = break
O = out
A = another
T = thousand

[21TUNL]

http://www.skagenboats.com/
take a look see here. Lot of washington peeps with a lot of experience and knowledge with jet. Good forum on the site.

[Moose]

http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/1088HPIM0588-med.JPG
Set back pump: The intake and pump are set back farther in the boat. (note the hand hole clean out is on the out side of the boat) This makes the boat think it's longer, so it rides farther back on it's ass and frees up the hull.
Ride Plate: The blue plate on the bottom connects to the back of the shoe on the bottom of the boat and again to the craddle that is attached to the bowl. Again, it is to get the boat to ride back farther on its ass to free up the hull.
Split Bowl: A bowl that has a round bolt patern (on the side farthest side away from the boat) that you can bolt droops, nozzle attachments ect;.
Wedge: The black plastic wedge between the Droop and Bowl. This is to change the amount of angle (Degree) on the Droop and Nozzle.
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/1088HPIM0589-med.JPG
Droop: The part that is attached to the back of the bowl and has a stearing knuckle on the Nozzle side. This is to lower the thrust or center line of the boat to get more lift and free up the hull. Also comes in a short version.
Place Diverter: An adjustable nozzle (up and down) made by a Co. of the same name. This is to trim the bow of the boat up or down, as to free up the bow (less boat in the water = more speed). Also to help with problems such as porpoising. You can also throw a rooster tail.
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/1088HPIM0592-med.JPG
Manual Diverter control: This is to control the angle of the Diverter (up or down). Also comes in a Hydraulic control (a button usually mounted on the stearing wheel).
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/1088HPIM0590-med.JPG
Nozzle Insert: The red ring inside the end of the nozzle or place Diverter. They come in different sizes. Smaller = more pressure and velocity.
Bigger= more flow and less velocity.
Aggressor: Jet Pump and parts Mfg. (note that the pump in the first pic is a Aggressor, The bowl is made by American Turbine).
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/1088HPIM0591-med.JPG
Jetaway or Ratchet: This unit allows the impeller to free spin if the motor stops or on sudden deceleration. You Can also use it to disconnect the drive line to the pump by manualy sliding the coller back, thus allowing the motor to run without the impeller turning.

[El Prosecutor]

Thanks for the link......but really not much help.....too much BS. ONE person stepped up with very BASIC stuff........
I guess I'll search the web for the info on other forums.....thanks!
BS definitely goes with the territory around here, but you grow to like it.
I'll throw out a few that you mentioned in your original post:
You asked for "Terms like: droop snout, Aggressor, Place diverter, etc...."\
Droop snoot is a nozzle extension that has been covered quite well by Busby.
Aggressor is a company that makes their own jet drives and aftermarket parts for other jet drives, including impellers and trim devices (diverters).
Place is another (the original maybe?) manufacturer of aftermarket diverters.
Diverter is a device used to adjust the vertical angle of the jet drive's discharge nozzle. The effect of this is to adjust the trim of the boat and usually will work to create that magical "rooster tail".
Trim is how high your bow is pointing while underway, and has a substantial effect on the speed at which the boat planes, and how much of the bottom of the boat is touching the water at speed.
Stringers have nothing to do with lunar or reproductive cycles; they are the longitudanal structural members built in to the bottom of the hull. They typically have the motor mounted to them and look like fiberglass covered 2x4's. A "full stringer" boat has stringers that run up past the driver's seat, and is desirable for strength and ridgity in performance applications.
the Impeller is the spinny thing mounted on the shaft inside the jet drive between the suction housing and the bowl. It causes water to move up through the intake (i.e. big hole) in the bottom of the boat, through the suction housing, past the impeller through the bowl and out the nozzle.
Impellers are given letter designations indicating the cut size and therefore the amount of water they will flow per revolution. Common sizes from larger to smaller are AA, A, B, C, with C being the smallest.
Vanes are the fins cast into the bowl on the discharge side of the impeller. They smooth and direct the flow of water before it is discharged out of the nozzle.
I have to go do some work now, but there is a start. Somebody else jump in.

[Xlration Marine]

Jetaway or Ratchet: This unit allows the impeller to free spin if the motor stops or on sudden deceleration. You Can also use it to disconnect the drive line to the pump by manualy sliding the coller back, thus allowing the motor to run without the impeller turning.
Learn sumthin new. This would have been nice years ago for drag racing. Much better to deal with than the old POP OFF valve.

[Josh-TSG]

Now THAT'S what I'm talkin' 'bout!:D
Good info guys.....I've done some searching for info and even books on the subject....suprising how little info is out there, considering how popular jet boats are.......
Appreciate the education guys!:)
Now.......with the wedge.........I take it it isn't needed/necessary if your equipped with a diverter, correct????

[centerhill condor]

jet boats at one time or another are projects!

[El Prosecutor]

Now THAT'S what I'm talkin' 'bout!:D
Good info guys.....I've done some searching for info and even books on the subject....suprising how little info is out there, considering how popular jet boats are.......
Appreciate the education guys!:)
Now.......with the wedge.........I take it it isn't needed/necessary if your equipped with a diverter, correct????
Wedges just set the fixed vertical angle of the nozzle base. Depending on your setup they can be beneficial, especially if the range of motion on your diverter won't get you where you want to be. It's just more boost for the roost.

[AZKC]

And most of this stuff they are talking about doesn't apply to Panther Jets:D

[PLACECRAFT20]

Oh Yea BOAT means bring on onother thousand$

[malcolm]

Hey Josh,
I'll throw the skagenboats.com at ya too. It's where most of us WA state jetters like to hang out.
If you find a boat you are interested in, just post it up here and within a few hours you'll know more about it then you thought possible. :eek:
The most common advice given when boat shopping is to stay with Chevy or Ford power and Berkeley style pumps. Bad key words would be Jacuzzi YJ, Panther, and 455 Olds. This from a guy running an Olds with a Jacuzzi! :D

[brad22]

Finally a quality thread that has useful information.
This will help if you have a Berkeley Jet (http://www.berkeleyjet.com/video-notes.aspx), although you did mention Aggressor. Good luck on your jet boat mission Josh-TSG :D

[LuckyDaze]

boat also stands for, Bend over another time. :eek: My boat is busy doing that to me right now and Im supposed to be leaving to the river at 5 am.
~Brian

[boats&bars]

Hey guys, is there a list of definitions of terms for some parts used for jets???
I'm new to jets and am looking at buying my first boat.....considering even a project, as I prefer to build my own stuff.
I'm learning quite a bit by searching here, but a few terms keep coming up, and I don't know what's being talked about....hahaha!:confused: :D
Terms like: droop snout, Aggressor, Place diverter, etc....
I've found a few hulls locally and may just buy a hull and start piecing together a nice jetboat as a winter project....plus I have a few BBC laying around.....:)
Any help with the various terms assocciated with jets and the mods done to them would be GREATLY appreciated!
Help a newb go to the DARK side of jets....he he:D
buy something that is complete and then restore it, setup can be a bitch, there are some killer deals out there right now.

[probablecause]

FAMILY - Once you are in the Jet Boat Family, you will never leave. Don't take no crap from any weed-whacker (prop driven boats).

[Josh-TSG]

Hey Josh,
I'll throw the skagenboats.com at ya too. It's where most of us WA state jetters like to hang out.
If you find a boat you are interested in, just post it up here and within a few hours you'll know more about it then you thought possible. :eek:
The most common advice given when boat shopping is to stay with Chevy or Ford power and Berkeley style pumps. Bad key words would be Jacuzzi YJ, Panther, and 455 Olds. This from a guy running an Olds with a Jacuzzi! :D
Thanks Malcolm, I noticed you over at Skagen.......yeah, I'm learning that the Jacuzzi and Panther pumps are not desireable....:D What are the other "Berkeley-style" pumps???
Is the 455 Olds really that bad??? Being a musclecar/hotrodder guy and having a few 442's with 455's, never had a problem with 'em......used Mondello's info for set-up.....or is it just not suited for the marine application??? Beleive me, I'd MUCH prefer a boat setup for a BBC, as I have 2 in my garage waiting to go into something.....but it seems every project boat I see is Olds.....:eek: I doubt I'd ever go with a Ford.......

[malcolm]

The Berkeley styles as in Aggressor, Legend, and American Turbine, they are mixed flow pumps that have the best interchange. If you buy a Jacuzzi or a Panther, there aren't many parts available for them besides what the factory still makes.
As far as the Olds motor goes, I'm not really that scared of them. They do fine untill they go past around 450 hp or 5500 rpm. I'll hold mine at 5000 for a few minutes at a time, but you gotta keep an eye on the oil temp and pressure. They're a good starter motor, but once you get the bug to go really fast, it's time to switch them out for the Chevy or Ford. If you find a good deal on a boat with a Berk/Olds in it, I'd go for it. You can change the engine a lot easier than the pump. ;)

[jet guy]

Im starting to change from olds to the chevy and it is not cheap. I'm going with some new basset overtransome headers & just the headers are $1000 bucks and then there is the mounts drive coupling about 500 or 600 and so on. I am running the olds now and it is alot of fun but Id like to go faster. Im not trying to tell you not to buy an olds power boat but they have oiling issues at higher rpm and it is a pretty big lay out of cash to change

[malcolm]

I've been slowly collecting the stuff I need for a Chevy swap. Nothing's cheap anymore. ;)

[El Prosecutor]

Is the 455 Olds really that bad??? Being a musclecar/hotrodder guy and having a few 442's with 455's, never had a problem with 'em......used Mondello's info for set-up.....or is it just not suited for the marine application??? .....
You have to know where you are going with it. My Olds pumps oil out the breathers if I keep it at 4200 for too long. I have come to grips with the fact that it is a mild motored lake boat that throws a nice roost and is probably never going to go over 60 (56.5 max so far).
If you are happy with that kind of performance and don't push it I think the Olds will last forever. Otherwise, you need to do the oil return/restriction mods or get a Chevy.
I find that I am very happy with my setup when on the water. I get antsy for more performance mostly in Winter, and mostly on the internet. :D

[Josh-TSG]

Good stuff guys.....
I'll keep asking for info in this thread.....maybe it'll help others just getting into jets as well....:D
Now, what is a "shoe"? And not Nike.......hahaha.......
And what is "hook"? Does it refer to a concave hull at the transom????:confused:
Are there any hull brands that I should DEFINITELY avoid?????

[El Prosecutor]

Shoe is basically an adjustable scoop at the back of the intake.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/521/medium/2160shoe.jpg
Hook and Rocker describe the shape of the last section (usually 4-6 feet) of the boat's bottom.
Hook means the bottom curves downward toward the transom (back wall) of the boat.
The gap under the straightedge in this picture is because of "hook"
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/68hook2.jpg
This generally will pull the nose down and cause more wetted area when underway, and slow the boat down.
Rocker is the opposite condition and can cause handling and stability problems and probably other things I don't know about.
Straightening the bottom of the boat is a fairly common project for performance oriented jet boaters who are trying to squeeze out MPH.
Check this thread for lots of hook and rocker info: Squirtcha?'s bottom (http://www.***boat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135556&highlight=bottom)
Bottom line is if you are buying a used boat, take a 4' straightedge and see if the last few feet of the bottom are straight. A real bad hook may be a reason not to buy, or at least to factor in the price if you want to go fast.

[Squirtcha?]

Is the 455 Olds really that bad???
Yes, tough to get em to hang in a jetboat app
Being a musclecar/hotrodder guy and having a few 442's with 455's, never had a problem with 'em......used Mondello's info for set-up.....or is it just not suited for the marine application???
Not a boat.
Beleive me, I'd MUCH prefer a boat setup for a BBC, as I have 2 in my garage waiting to go into something.....but it seems every project boat I see is Olds.....:eek: I doubt I'd ever go with a Ford.......
Do a read around on here. Even the Chevy guys will tell you Fords before Olds. The BBFs are able to withstand the sustained high rpms in the jets (and V-drives for that matter) without having to do anything special to em.
Without considerable mods the Olds doesn't hang so well. Sure............there are a few that have had the mods done and run pretty stong, but typically even their owners won't pin em for more than a few seconds.
Olds oiling issues that might not be so big a deal in a street car come jumping right out at you and bite you in the ass in a boat situation.
Incidently the link the Prosecutor put in the above post is mine. I made the bottom absolutely flat and still had the porpoise. About a month ago I flipped it back over and added about 1/4" of hook in one strake (each side) and the bouncing stopped. I might've added a bit too much as I scrubbed off some speed, but at least it stopped that confounded bouncing!
Since I added material and just in one small area, I can take a sanding board to it and just remove a little at a time until I get my speed back (in theory anyway).
Moral of the story is................Not all boats want a perfectly flat bottom/running surface (definitely not my Kachina)

[bead]

a whole in the water you throw money at ( some more than others ):D

[BUSBY]

Sorry, wasn't reading this thread for the last couple of days ... seems to be good information here ...
Moose, great job!