Electric Fuel Pump vs. Mechanical Fuel Pump

[HaulinAss]

Having a fuel starvation issue and I felt it has to do with the fuel pump im running(electric holley blue) and was debating on going to a high volume mechanical pump.Ive heard ideas about one being better than the other and visa versa .Any feedback or ideas would be great.

[Squirtin Thunder]

I like the Carter 172gph mech pumps no reg required. They use mech pumps in NASCAR also. :cool:

[MikeF]

I would troubleshoot the whole system before throwing a bigger fuel pump at it. You might have a problem somewhere else. The holley blues have been powering fuel systems for a long time so that might not be your problem. Use your eyes and some common sense instead of some marketing guy saying.....This is the pump that you NEED! It'll cure all your ill's.
He just wants to sell you something. :220v:
Happy troubleshooting. :cool:

[MikeF]

And for the record, My holley blue usually sticks every year and I take it apart at least once a year to get it unstuck. I then get to check it out for damage or any other problems. I've owned my boat since 92 and it is still the same pump as when I bought it. It is still making the boat go just fine. :)

[HaulinAss]

I would troubleshoot the whole system before throwing a bigger fuel pump at it. You might have a problem somewhere else. The holley blues have been powering fuel systems for a long time so that might not be your problem. Use your eyes and some common sense instead of some marketing guy saying.....This is the pump that you NEED! It'll cure all your ill's.
He just wants to sell you something. :220v:
Happy troubleshooting. :cool:
This isnt a marketing deal.Its a thought that I have as well as a lot of other boat guys I have talked to,where as others swear by the electric route.
This thread is basically looking for actual experiance with an electric pump vs. mechanical pump pros and cons.I already have my idea of what im going to do,but Id like to hear some HANDS ON input.

[Devilman]

Mine has a Holley blue pump on it. Only problem I had is the way the previous owner had it wired. He had it grounded with a little bitty wire to the back of one of the gauges. It would run for a bit & shut off without warning. Mounted a ground block under the dash & wired it to that, no problems since.
As far as mechanical pumps, you might talk to Taylorman. If I'm not mistaken he has an Edelbrock mech. pump, seems to do the job just fine...

[Taylorman]

I have a mechanical and it works fine. I like mechanical cause its simpler than electrical, no wires required and less to worry about. They dont quit like an electric can.

[Beautiful Noise]

I have the same Holley Blue Electric pump on my boat since 1976.The 1st owner use to run a pair of Dominators carbs,I run 2-660's with a regulator and I've never had a problem.I have used the re-build kits acouple of times over the years is all just for safe measure and I keep a extra kit with me.I also have a Clay Smith Mech pump new that I keep tossing the idea around about installing but the Electric has been so faithfull.

[flat broke]

Electric - fills float bowls without having to crank motor (good), can be mounted anywhere within reason (good), no drag on the motor so probably worth some fraction of an HP (good I guess), Can heat up and fail when eposed to a low flow situation, such as idling for long periods of time (bad), are dependent upon your electrical system and sussceptible to all related pitfalls (bad), sometimes harder to find replacement parts for in a pinch if (bad), will continue to pump fuel so long as it has voltage, regardless of whether or not the engine is running (Bad)
Mechanical - mounts directly to the block so no need to make a bracket (good), is powered off the motor so no need for additional electrical (good), pull fuel better through separators and filters once primed (good), easier to find a replacement in a pinch (good), Don't care how long you idle them for (good), can flow more than enough fuel to support big HP (good), stops pumping fuel when the engine dies (good), you'll need to manually fill your float bowls if you let the boat sit or change jets (bad), Can be harder to get to to replace if need be (bad).
For what its worth, I run a Clay Smith mechanical on my boat with a regulator and it has worked flawlessly. I had a Holley on an old Eliminator bubble deck and it was nothing but problems. Now had I taken the time to go through the entire fuel system, possibly install a bypass, etc. I'm sure the Holley would have worked fine.
Mike F's post is dead on. See what problems you have first; then decide which type of pump to run based upon their inheirent strengths and weaknesses, not because your current fuel system setup may have some issues.
Hope that helps,
Chris

[Aluminum Squirt]

I agree with diagnosing any problems you may have first, but for what its worth, I run a mechanical (don't even know the brand) and I beat the crap out of my boat. Never had a problem. I don't have a reason to go electric and probably never will-Aluminum Squirt

[Heatseeker]

I went with a mechanical Clay Smith as well. I chose it mostly because of the reliability issues. Also, I was having a hard time finding an electric suitable for my application. Most of your large BG electrics aren't rated for continuous duty. The one BG recommends for boats is their Sumo=$450. The mechanical mounts up alot cleaner too. And it was only $100!

[IMPATIENT 1]

Having a fuel starvation issue and I felt it has to do with the fuel pump im running(electric holley blue) and was debating on going to a high volume mechanical pump.Ive heard ideas about one being better than the other and visa versa .Any feedback or ideas would be great.
HOLLEY BLUE PUMPS WILL OVERHEAT AND BOIL FUEL IN THE PUMP,SOMETIMES GETTING SO HOT THAT THEY SHUT OFF.THIS IS BECAUSE MOST NOVICE JET OWNERS DON'T RUN A BYPASS REGULATOR.ANY ELECTRIC PUMP THAT HAS OVER 10PSI OF PRESSURE WILL OVERHEAT IF YOU DEAD HEAD ONE WITHOUT SOME TYPE OF RETURN SYSTEM.
I'D CHECK THE WIRING,REBUILD PUMP AND INSTALL A BYPASS TYPE REGULATOR.
I'VE RUN HOLLEY BLUE'S IN EVERY HOTROD I'VE DONE.NEVER HAD ANY PROBS OR NEED FOR REBUILD,BUT I'VE ALSO USED BYPASS TYPE REGULATORS ON THEM ALL.JUST MY .02.

[maxwedge]

I have the same Holley Blue Electric pump on my boat since 1976..
This has to be some kind of record for a Holley pump. I had a car that went through three of them in 2 years! 1976 is probably considered a rare collectible on ebay by now. :D Maybe you can sell it and buy ten new ones.

[superdave013]

Electric - fills float bowls without having to crank motor (good),
Or in the case of the bus if you have a stuck float it will fill up the entire engine. lol
I like pumps that don't run unless the engine is running myself.

[LynnsJet]

Check out your Fuel pressure regulator. The pump could be fine but the fuel could be holding up the fuel.
Braided and rubber lines have been known to deterioriate from the insde and restrict fuel flow.
Good Luck. I am sure you will find your problem with all this help.
L J

[Beautiful Noise]

Maybe you can sell it and buy ten new ones.
No thanks, I'll keep my old one since the new ones are so expensive :)

[QuickJet]

Change your 5/16 tank outlets like I've been telling you. You wouldn't run 5/16 outlets on your race car would you? Same applys here. Keep it simple. Manuel pumps fail just like any other part. No part is fail proof. Your pump is brand new (I still have the receipt) so whatever problem you think you might be having is not due to the pumps performance.
Yah friggin tard!!!

[455Rocket]

the fuel pump im running(electric holley blue)
That's your problem :)
I've never heard anything good about Holley FP's...

[Wicked Performance Boats]

Just one question. Why would you want anything electrical on a boat[around water and fiberglass is a bad ground] ? Mechanical pumps are cleaner installation and you don't get gas to carbs after sittting till it pumps up, which gives oil pump time to build pressure. Budlight my 02 cents

[xs ultra]

The electric fuel pump should be mounted as low as possible .I had problems with a carter then bought a holley same thing, pressure would go up and down.Mounted the pump as low as i could even with the bottom of the tank.
per instruction from holley and that fix the problem. The pump was mounted about even with the top of the tank before.

[Aduner2]

Mechanical for me, believe in kiss. However Gen 5 blocks don't have provisions for a mechanical so there is no choice. Had a Holley blue pump quit on the lake, had to be towed in. :cry:

[bradbigsley]

Just one question. Why would you want anything electrical on a boat[around water and fiberglass is a bad ground] ? Mechanical pumps are cleaner installation and you don't get gas to carbs after sittting till it pumps up, which gives oil pump time to build pressure. Budlight my 02 cents
this is why i run the carter mechanical pump. i dont care what anybody says, WATER AND ELECTRICAL DONT MIX, so why add more wires and ultimately more problems if not needed?

[Wicked Performance Boats]

Here's a further thought---- I run a magneto and a mechanical fuel pump. If my battery goes dead or I develop an electrial short. I can disconnect the battery and all wires, get a jump start and get back to boat launch. Budlight

[LGCDEVIL]

this is why i run the carter mechanical pump. i dont care what anybody says, WATER AND ELECTRICAL DONT MIX, so why add more wires and ultimately more problems if not needed?
Harsh words from a guy with a stero in his boat :D Also, those mechanical pumps have been known to shoot out fire sometimes!!!!!!!!!!

[Wicked Performance Boats]

Harsh words from a guy with a stero in his boat. What's a stero? Budlight

[bradbigsley]

Harsh words from a guy with a stero in his boat :D Also, those mechanical pumps have been known to shoot out fire sometimes!!!!!!!!!!
thats only when the devil is around. if the stereo goes out i can still make it back to the ramp you fag.

[LGCDEVIL]

Also, those mechanical pumps have been known to shoot out fire sometimes!!!!!!!!!![/QUOTE]
"Ok Brad, you turn it over, and I will look in here and see if gas comes out"

[Taylorman]

What's a stero?
Good one

[flat broke]

Or in the case of the bus if you have a stuck float it will fill up the entire engine. lol
I like pumps that don't run unless the engine is running myself.
Electric - ...will continue to pump fuel so long as it has voltage, regardless of whether or not the engine is running (Bad)
C'mon chief, ya know I run a Clay Smith mechanical on my rig and I owe it all to you :D
Got a ride for October yet? ;)
Chris

[76ANTHONY]

well, i just changed my system from a deadhead system to a bypass system, i also have a holley blue it was overheating and now it doesnt have any problems. just my .02. oh and i run two edle's 750's on a tunnel ram and an olds 455..

[1968Droptop]

Don't these pumps technically have to be marine rated ? Sorry if it's dumb question, but I heard you can be fined for ever NON marine approved part on your boat. I'm hoping I don't find out, but something I'd heard.

[airboater67]

Been running a blue on my airboat since 93, never, ever had a problem, and don't run a bypass. It has never gotten hot or stopped. Granted i only have to turn 2700rpm max. But that should even be harder on the pump. Running a 470ci continental aircraft. She will do 55mph at 2700rpm......and sometimes it touches the water............

[QuickJet]

Or in the case of the bus if you have a stuck float it will fill up the entire engine. lol
I like pumps that don't run unless the engine is running myself.
I would never install an electric fuel pump without a fused toggle switch. Problem solved.

[wsuwrhr]

Or in the case of the bus if you have a stuck float it will fill up the entire engine. lol
I like pumps that don't run unless the engine is running myself.
SD knows what he is talking about.
Brian

[Brooski]

I am running a Holley mechanical on my 468 chevy with single 800cfm carb. Never had a problem.

[Beautiful Noise]

I am running a Holley mechanical on my 468 chevy with single 800cfm carb. Never had a problem.
Dan says that why your so slow :rollside: :) :)

[Brooski]

Dan says that why your so slow :rollside: :) :)
Alrighty then.......selfproclaimedslowperson........You worried I might be slower than you?

[superdave013]

I would never install an electric fuel pump without a fused toggle switch. Problem solved.
so if your float sticks it blows your fuse? you're loosing me on this one.

[Outlaw]

The right way to install any electric pump on any thing,
is to run it off a relay that is switched from a pressure sensor, you can purchase these from any auto parts store.
then wire the relay so that when your cranking the starter it supplies the power to the pump. then you have fuel pressure when your starting. then if your engine quits fuel stops pumping. Or in case of an accident. As far as which is best.....
there is pro's and con's in both applications. make sure your supply line is large enough to supply the amount of fuel your pump and engine require.

[steve d]

The right way to install any electric pump on any thing,
is to run it off a relay that is switched from a pressure sensor, you can purchase these from any auto parts store.
then wire the relay so that when your cranking the starter it supplies the power to the pump. then you have fuel pressure when your starting. then if your engine quits fuel stops pumping. Or in case of an accident. As far as which is best.....
there is pro's and con's in both applications. make sure your supply line is large enough to supply the amount of fuel your pump and engine require.
Sounds good.. but in this schematic don't you still have remember to turn the ignition switch off? How does the electric fuel pump know the engine just quit?....Steve

[Heatseeker]

The right way to install any electric pump on any thing,
is to run it off a relay that is switched from a pressure sensor, you can purchase these from any auto parts store.
then wire the relay so that when your cranking the starter it supplies the power to the pump. then you have fuel pressure when your starting. then if your engine quits fuel stops pumping. Or in case of an accident. As far as which is best.....
there is pro's and con's in both applications. make sure your supply line is large enough to supply the amount of fuel your pump and engine require.
Sounds good.. but in this schematic don't you still have remember to turn the ignition switch off? How does the electric fuel pump know the engine just quit?....Steve
I think the pressure switch plumbs into the oil system in this case.

[Wicked Performance Boats]

Gee, Lets triple the wiring and put more electrical switches around WATER! BL

[maxwedge]

How does the electric fuel pump know the engine just quit?....Steve
I use a system of three small magic trolls (for weight savings), but children or midgets might work just as well. I have one small troll sitting in the engine compartment intensely watching the crank pulley for signs of movement and another troll at a knife switch near the fuel pump at all times. The third troll serves as a spare in case one drowns or becomes somehow incapcitated from the dangerous combination of engine fumes, gasoline, water, and electricity. If the pulley ever stops the first troll yells into a tin can on a string that's connected to a tin car near the second trolls ear... aww forget it. :D...
Just get a 3-5 psi oil pressure switch (used to control automotive idiot lights and such) and wire into the fuel pump relay circuit so that the relay (and therefore the fuel pump) only recieves power when there is engine oil pressure. You need the relay because the pump draws to much current to be switched directly with the oil pressure switch. I have a diagram someplace for this. If I find it I will scan it and post it.

[QuickJet]

so if your float sticks it blows your fuse? you're loosing me on this one.
If your float sticks it WON'T blow your fuse. If your motor dies due to your float sticking, all you have to do is shut off the pump. Anyone who has had a float stick with an electric pump knows it's way easier to get back to shore with a Holly blue than a boat equiped with a Manuel pump.

[superdave013]

quick jet, you are missing my point completely
If it would have been wired up like Outlaw said with the heatseaker mod to an oil pressure switch it would have saved the engine.
we had a stuck float at the starting line. waiting for the starting gun the engine was off with the ingintion on. Finger on start button waiting for the gun to go off. Hit the button, fire the engine and whack the trottle. Only problem was the stuck float that we did not know of. so we hit the button and hydolocked the engine. that bent a rod and the rest is history.

[Wicked Performance Boats]

"Anyone who has had a float stick with an electric pump knows it's way easier to get back to shore with a Holly blue than a boat equiped with a Manuel pump"
I really don't understand this quote! Why is it easier to get to shore with a stuck float with an electrical pump? BL
'

[steve d]

I think the pressure switch plumbs into the oil system in this case.
Yes, I think that's what outlaw meant. Years ago--won't tell you how many-one of my midget buddies ran his ignition through the oil pressure switch. Worked for a while until he lost oil pressure going down the backstretch--the fella behind him promptly totaled both cars...saved the motor though...Steve

[Jeanyus]

this is why i run the carter mechanical pump. i dont care what anybody says, WATER AND ELECTRICAL DONT MIX, so why add more wires and ultimately more problems if not needed?
That explains why people put computerized ignitions, data acquisition systems, and launch controllers in thier boats. :rolleyes:
Dang I guess I have to take the starter, ignition system,battery, and hydralic place diverter out of my boat, since WATER AND ELECTRICAL DONT MIX.
I'll be back in a couple hours and let you know how much better my boat works with all the electrical removed.

[Konabud]

That explains why people put computerized ignitions, data acquisition systems, and launch controllers in thier boats. :rolleyes:
Dang I guess I have to take the starter, ignition system,battery, and hydralic place diverter out of my boat, since WATER AND ELECTRICAL DONT MIX.
I'll be back in a couple hours and let you know how much better my boat works with all the electrical removed.
You forgot the stero

[QuickJet]

I really don't understand this quote! Why is it easier to get to shore with a stuck float with an electrical pump? BL
'
Be cause you can control the fuel flow of the pump with a toggle switch. Something you can't do with a Manuel pump.

[Wicked Performance Boats]

The point being which fuel pump to use. My point was I use a mechanical because my boats are primaryly river boats not full tilt raceboats. I understand why racers use electrical component to make it faster. What I'm saying is on the river, the less electrial that can break or fail, the better. That's why I like a magneto and mech pump. In this case, less is better. BL

[bradbigsley]

That explains why people put computerized ignitions, data acquisition systems, and launch controllers in thier boats. :rolleyes:
Dang I guess I have to take the starter, ignition system,battery, and hydralic place diverter out of my boat, since WATER AND ELECTRICAL DONT MIX.
I'll be back in a couple hours and let you know how much better my boat works with all the electrical removed.
so what you are saying jeanyus is that most of us are drag racers huh. you are missing my point. most racers go thru all of there shit before and after every race where as 98% of peeps on the river get a tune up and gorget about it. so what you are telling me is that water does not have any corosion factor what so ever? i guess you are a jeanyus.. :crossx:

[bradbigsley]

That explains why people put computerized ignitions, data acquisition systems, and launch controllers in thier boats. :rolleyes:
Dang I guess I have to take the starter, ignition system,battery, and hydralic place diverter out of my boat, since WATER AND ELECTRICAL DONT MIX.
I'll be back in a couple hours and let you know how much better my boat works with all the electrical removed.
and oh ya, thats why i run a manual diverter and go ahead and rip out all your electrical you smart ass :rollside:

[Jeanyus]

so what you are saying jeanyus is that most of us are drag racers huh. you are missing my point. most racers go thru all of there shit before and after every race where as 98% of peeps on the river get a tune up and gorget about it. so what you are telling me is that water does not have any corosion factor what so ever? i guess you are a jeanyus.. :crossx:
Wrong on both counts. You are missing my point (sorry for using sarcasm to make a point ) My point is If I can take care of, and maintain electricl connections for starters and ignitions systems ( at least 1/2 of the LAKE BOATS that I see have MSD ignition, and a computer) computers, sterios etc. It does not take much more effort to maintain a simple circut for a fuel pump.
Back to the orignal question. I had a fuel starvation problem with my holley blue, It was a cracked fitting, in the fuel line from the tank to pump. Check your fuel supply line.
The reason I run an electric pump is for a uninterupted steady supply of fuel.
My pump has lasted for 6 years. A couple of tips that I think help it to live long are, mount the pump as close to the tanks as you can, mine is even with the bottom of the tank, prime the pump before turning it on.
Use a relay, my pump is also close to the battery, good power supply, another reason it has lasted.
I kind like the looks of no fuel pump
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/5859no_fuel_pump.jpg
As far as safety, the relay is powered through the kill switch, so if I move from the drivers seat, or I can pull the cap off at any time and power is cut to the ignition and fuel pump.
As far building oil pressure buy not having your engine start right away. I guess I'm wierd cause I always like it when I bump the key and idle out to sea.
If you like mechanical pumps thats good too.
OK water and electrical dont mix. But they can co-exist.

[ricktuttle]

I am new around here so my opinion may not count, but I think most of the problems people have with electric fuel pumps are mostly improper installation and or wiring related. Mount it close to the tank down low, use a relay and high quality 8 gauge wire as well as a bypass and it will live. I think it is a toss up personally as to which pump works best if they are both properly installed.

[bradbigsley]

Wrong on both counts. You are missing my point (sorry for using sarcasm to make a point ) My point is If I can take care of, and maintain electricl connections for starters and ignitions systems ( at least 1/2 of the LAKE BOATS that I see have MSD ignition, and a computer) computers, sterios etc. It does not take much more effort to maintain a simple circut for a fuel pump.
Back to the orignal question. I had a fuel starvation problem with my holley blue, It was a cracked fitting, in the fuel line from the tank to pump. Check your fuel supply line.
The reason I run an electric pump is for a uninterupted steady supply of fuel.
My pump has lasted for 6 years. A couple of tips that I think help it to live long are, mount the pump as close to the tanks as you can, mine is even with the bottom of the tank, prime the pump before turning it on.
Use a relay, my pump is also close to the battery, good power supply, another reason it has lasted.
I kind like the looks of no fuel pump
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/5859no_fuel_pump.jpg
As far as safety, the relay is powered through the kill switch, so if I move from the drivers seat, or I can pull the cap off at any time and power is cut to the ignition and fuel pump.
As far building oil pressure buy not having your engine start right away. I guess I'm wierd cause I always like it when I bump the key and idle out to sea.
If you like mechanical pumps thats good too.
OK water and electrical dont mix. But they can co-exist.
ok, now that sounds reasonable. all of this is a matter of opinion anyways. my theory is to minimize elec as much as possible. im not here to argue about opinions but if someone asks, i will give it to them. thanks and have a nice day :rollside:

[Wicked Performance Boats]

Jeanyus, If you like the no fuel pump look. Why do you have a hole in your front motor mount plate? Just haven't had time to make a new one yet? BL

[HaulinAss]

Manuel pumps
I was unaware Manuel was making pumps now.Thanx Scott who sells them :hammer2:

[LGCDEVIL]

How many different ways is "stereo" spelled in this thread?

[QuickJet]

I was unaware Manuel was making pumps now.Thanx Scott who sells them :hammer2:
I always refer to "those" pumps as Manuel (man-well). Yes as in the spanish name. You can find a Manuel pump at any store that sells crap!!

[LVjetboy]

I've run several brands of electric and mechanical (Carter, Mallory, Edelbrock) on cars and boats over the years. I've seen failures in both. My mechanicals never stranded me on the lake although I blaimed them wrongly a time or two. My electrics never stranded me either although they certainly tried a time or two.
Bottom line: For a boat, I'd pick mechanical here's why...
With electric you really should have an oil pressure cutoff for several reasons. Superdave013 mentioned one...the stuck float valve. BTW, his post makes sense for lake boaters too. But there's other reasons. Thing is, adding that safety cutoff means one more part in your fuel system that can fail.
With electric you need to mount the pump low if you want it to work right. Right down there where fuel vapors are traped and collect, unlike a car. That's why you really should run a marine electric pump, expensive if even offered in your choice of brand?
That said, electric pumps with good parts and setup will run safe and reliable. But from my experience with both, mechanical is the best overall. Mech doesn't need marine protection or sensors. Consider price:
Edelbrock Victor Mechanical (350-1712): $83
Magnaflow Regulator (MRF-MP-9633): $150
Total: $233
Mallory Comp Electrical Marine (650-4140M): $250
Regulator included (lists for $83): N/C
Oil pressure cutoff (SUM-G1438): $12
Total: $262
Even with a pricey Magnaflow regulator, the mech system's still cheaper. You have less parts...no electrics, no extra wiring or connections, sensors or safety measures, yet delivers the fuel. Fuel enough for big power.
So what's the mechanical downside?
Priming as Chris (flat broke) mentioned. If you let your jet sit a long time (as in weeks, not days or hours) with mechanical you're gonna crank awhile before carbs are ready to go. Hand priming bowls through the vents...not a good idea IMO. Don't know if there's a safe way to manually prime bowls, but by vent can be bad. Get an air lock and you're filling intake, maybe a cylinder or two not to mention throttle plate pin leak out the carb on top the engine. Could get messy...vapors in the bildge. Static electricity or cranking with plugs out to clear the cylinders of fuel and a non-marine starter? Fire.
But priming or fuel spills won't be an issue w/mechanical off-season if you do one thing: Start your engine every other weekend or so, let it idle a bit, then shut her down.
Keeps lines primed and carb bowls filled. Keeps seals lubed and fuel deposits from clogging carb aerteries. Helps keep oil up where it should be. In other words, start her up regularly off-season and fuel priming with a mechanical pump is no longer an issue, and you may see other engine benefits.
jer

[RobbMc]

I prefer a mechanical pump but couldn't find a good high volume pump for my BB Olds so I designed a six valve NASCAR style pump. Then I noticed the same lack of a good mechanical pump for several less popular engines so I started RobbMc Performance Products. We have 110 and 220 GPH mechanical pumps for many of the "forgotten" V8's:
http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products.html

[sleekcrafter]

I have a Century boat I've been working on, it has both a mechanical fuel pump and an electrical fuel pump. They are parallel'd with a check valve to bypass the electric pump. This was a factory option for Century boats, and made for quick primeing a boat that had sat for a while. It saved the owner a tow once, nice back-up deal.
Sleek

[LVjetboy]

I have a Century boat with both a mechanical fuel pump and an electrical fuel pump. They are parallel'd with a check valve to bypass the electric pump. This was a factory option for Century boats, and made for quick primeing a boat that had sat for a while. It saved the owner a tow once, nice back-up deal.
Sleek
Interesting a manufacturer offered that option. Combining the two makes for a fast prime and a backup, but also may double the cost. In some cases the complexity and potential for failure. Here's what I ran a couple seasons...
http://members.cox.net/lvjetboy/FuelDiagram.jpg
http://members.cox.net/lvjetboy/DualFuel.jpg
Two independent electric fuel systems. I tried this design because I had an electric pump give out on me. I thought, why not a backup? That and I wanted two independent yet balanced flows from either sadle tank. It worked, but more connections and two electric pumps so more potential leaks and headaches. Thing is, one reliable high performance mechanical pump w/a regulator can do the same thing. That while supplying enough fuel flow for big power.
jer

[Highlimit9000]

Simple, Small, and puts out some flow..
http://www.racepumps.com/tech.html

[Wicked Performance Boats]

Probably a great idea BUT $300 plus shipping, no thank you. BL

[lilrick]

mechanical

[sleekcrafter]

Funny Jer, my boat shares the exact same fuel system schematic, as your PC does. I will be getting new braided hoses, and AN fittings, this season, time to call Sweet Performance Products again :rolleyes:
Sleek
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/7363100_0338.JPG

[Wicked Performance Boats]

Funny Jer, my boat shares the exact same fuel system schematic, as your PC does. I will be getting new braided hoses, and AN fittings, this season, time to call Sweet Performance Products again :rolleyes:
Sleek
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/7363100_0338.JPG
Fuel pressure regs should be located much closer to carbs. Budlight

[sleekcrafter]

Fuel pressure regs should be located much closer to carbs. Budlight
They are about 24 inches away, from the single 1050 carb. Too far away? I have no fuel feed or pressure related problems. Can you add some more insight on this.
Sleek

[Wicked Performance Boats]

The regs supposed to be as close to the carb to prevent fuel surges. I'm not saying it won't work there BUT all fuel regs come with instructions usually to mount as close as poss. to carb. I'd put it at the Tee for the fuel bowls. Budlight

[sleekcrafter]

The regs supposed to be as close to the carb to prevent fuel surges. I'm not saying it won't work there BUT all fuel regs come with instructions usually to mount as close as poss. to carb. I'd put it at the Tee for the fuel bowls. Budlight
Thanks BL, I'll look into it, when I replumb the fuel system this spring.
sleek

[steelcomp]

The regs supposed to be as close to the carb to prevent fuel surges. I'm not saying it won't work there BUT all fuel regs come with instructions usually to mount as close as poss. to carb. I'd put it at the Tee for the fuel bowls. Budlight
Ten-four that.

[49er]

Having a fuel starvation issue and I felt it has to do with the fuel pump im running(electric holley blue) and was debating on going to a high volume mechanical pump.Ive heard ideas about one being better than the other and visa versa .Any feedback or ideas would be great.
electric fuel pumps are fine. There is a lot of different reasons why any pump
fails. Over heating of the pump can be caused by bad ground, wrong size wire, incorrect placement, or not running a relay. By runnig a fuel pump relay
it takes away a lot of the amp draw from the pump , which keeps the pump
from heating up. You should'nt have to run a by -pass with a holley blue. A
by-pass would be a waste of money for that pump. I've always ran electric
pumps never had a problem. Like someone else said your problem could be from many different things so start from square 1

[MikeF]

And for the record, My holley blue usually sticks every year and I take it apart at least once a year to get it unstuck. I then get to check it out for damage or any other problems. I've owned my boat since 92 and it is still the same pump as when I bought it. It is still making the boat go just fine. :)
To add...........It only has stuck when it has been sitting for a long time w/o being powered up. It has not "stuck" while on the river since I've owned it. :mix: