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Focker
02-17-2006, 06:30 PM
What would anyone suggest on lifting my boat (18' ultra open bow)off the trailer enough to pull off the wood and replace the carpet? Do you do one side at a time? Need ideas
thanks

Mohave Vice
02-17-2006, 06:34 PM
Did mine a couple of years ago. Don't know the exact protocol ......... but I took measurements of the boards, new wood, new carpet, went to the lake, launched and replaced. Trailered boat and came home.

YeLLowBoaT
02-17-2006, 06:35 PM
well you can ether go with a couple of jacks and some blocks of wood. OR you can go out for a day on the water and change them...

Focker
02-17-2006, 06:36 PM
Did mine a couple of years ago. Don't know the exact protocol ......... but I took measurements of the boards, new wood, new carpet, went to the lake, launched and replaced. Trailered boat and came home.
thats a great idea
did you have the boards all carpeted when u went to the lake
when did you drill the holes

Mandelon
02-17-2006, 06:47 PM
Just some ideas:
Bring your tool box and do it in the parking lot. Cordless drill, hammer, stainless nails or staples, razor knife, the carpet, and a wrench or socket set. You might want to break the bolts loose at home in the driveway before you get there just to know they will come out.
Maybe you can reuse the original bunks and just put new carpet on them? Then the holes will be in the right places already...
Use a piece of plywood to cut the carpet on...stainless fasteners = good. :cool:

Focker
02-17-2006, 06:52 PM
great ideas
thank u

Focker
02-17-2006, 06:53 PM
if i buy new wood is there any particulars
do you buy treated wood

YeLLowBoaT
02-17-2006, 06:57 PM
I would go with ether presure treated or Red wood.

Boatcop
02-17-2006, 06:58 PM
If you're using new boards, don't pre-drill them. They won't line up. Just put the board in place, clamp with a C-clamp and drill through the mount. Bolt the first one up tight, then move to the next one in line.
Any marine store will have carpet rolls of the proper width in stock.
As much as we launch and retrieve our patrol boats, we have to re-do the bunks about every 2-3 years.
DO NOT use the rubberized composite decking boards. They have too much flex and won't support the hull evenly. Regular old pressure treated (green) 2x4s (or 6s) work best.

HOOTER SLED-
02-17-2006, 07:00 PM
Measured and had mine done too. Just took them with me one day when I hit the water. Had a friend cruise the boat while I zapped the boards on with a cordless drill. Tricky part is getting them lined up like the original ones. Have fun. :rollside:

shadow
02-17-2006, 07:13 PM
What would anyone suggest on lifting my boat (18' ultra open bow)off the trailer enough to pull off the wood and replace the carpet? Do you do one side at a time? Need ideas
thanks
Focker,with you Dough just take the boat to Campbell boats across from Windsor and they will launch you replae the bunks and pick you up at the ramp in the afternoon.

76ANTHONY
02-17-2006, 07:34 PM
gotta 2 post rake at work, works perfect for liftin the boat

HMF'er
02-17-2006, 07:43 PM
I've heard of some using engine hoists with chains tied to the transom tie down hooks and the bow hooks. Enough lift to pull the trailer out.

Focker
02-17-2006, 08:01 PM
Focker,with you Dough just take the boat to Campbell boats across from Windsor and they will launch you replae the bunks and pick you up at the ramp in the afternoon.
my dough?
ya mine mrs Fockers and the kids dough
dont want to wait till june because that will be the only time I haul this boat to Havasu
I dont need two up there
Thanks to everyone
great ideas which i will be using
PS to all that are going to LHC
have fun and be safe this weekend

HCS
02-17-2006, 08:39 PM
I ponder this problem quit a bit before I re-carpeted my trailer.
Here was my solution.
I bought all new wood and carpet and made everything new.
I figured hell with trying to recover my old ones.
Turned out to be the best solution I had.
I went to Home Depot and bought wood, wood preservative, indoor outdoor carpet and carpet glue.
Then, I rented I staple gun.
I contructed all new bunks and planks in my garage.
First I measured and cut, then I preserved all the wood.
Then I cut glued and stapled the carpet. Let dry.
Next, pic a day to load up some freinds.
Go launch your boat and let them hang out in the water somewhere and party.
Bolt on all new in the parking lot, throw old away.
Call freinds on cell phone to pick you up.
Your done.

Focker
02-17-2006, 10:21 PM
Hey Guys Thanks A Lot
Last Question
Redwood Vs Treated Wood
Boatcop
Is Redwood Better
And Would Home Depot Have The Treated Wood, I Know They Have Redwood

HCS
02-17-2006, 10:26 PM
Hey Guys Thanks A Lot
Last Question
Redwood Vs Treated Wood
Boatcop
Is Redwood Better
And Would Home Depot Have The Treated Wood, I Know They Have Redwood
Redwood is to soft, pre-treated wood is usually the same.
Get clean hard wood and treat it with some Jasco preservative.
That's stuffs the shit!

YeLLowBoaT
02-17-2006, 10:58 PM
Redwood is to soft, pre-treated wood is usually the same.
Get clean hard wood and treat it with some Jasco preservative.
That's stuffs the shit!
actaully that stuff does not pentrait more then about a 1/8th. presure treated is basicly doug fir... still even when its "presure treated" you still on get about .5-.75" pentraition. I have seen it many times in decks where the center of the wood is a gone, but the outer shell is still there.
Really for this app there is not too much diff between redwood and PT

moneypit
02-17-2006, 11:11 PM
Took mine to Nordic last year after launching.. I told them I needed one bunk fixed. They said ok. I came back later that day and they had redone all the bunks.. 15 bucks. Now thats a deal! ( Me thinks they screwed up) :rollside:

HCS
02-17-2006, 11:31 PM
actaully that stuff does not pentrait more then about a 1/8th. presure treated is basicly doug fir... still even when its "presure treated" you still on get about .5-.75" pentraition. I have seen it many times in decks where the center of the wood is a gone, but the outer shell is still there.
Really for this app there is not too much diff between redwood and PT
I would go for the PT over redwood.
What ever they used on my trailer originally rotten.
I didn't realize it until I lauched my boat one day and the bunks floated away.
They were wrapped in carpet, so I had no clue they were toast until they fell off.
The bunks were wrapped all the way around. The moister couldn't escape.
My own set up I kept the bottom open so they could drain and dry out.
Maybe they'll last 5 years.

Mandelon
02-18-2006, 06:14 PM
Maybe use a hard wood like Oak or Pau Lope? Might cost more but I shouldn't rot. Redwood is not very strong.

Mardonzi
02-18-2006, 06:29 PM
There is a product out called Trex,, basically it's recylced milk jugs. Most people use it for decking material around thier houses. Never rots but softer than Gelcoat. The ones that I've seen done with it don't even put carpet on it, Just countersink a Stainless carriage bolt below the surface so you don't ding your bottom. Looked to be a pretty slick deal.

craiginlaverne
02-18-2006, 09:39 PM
if you dont want carpeted boards, use this stuff called UHMW. i work for a boat trailer builder and sometimes customers want that stuff instead of carpet. its really slippery and wont harm the hull of your boat. comes in different colors, too. kinda of expensive. when you order it, you can have it cut to fit your boards. its mounted with stainless screws on top of your boards. either they are mounted on top of a carpeded board or a painted board usually painted black. i cant remember exactly where we get it. some driver iam!!! i know theres a place in anahiem off of orangewood and the 57 fwy. if your interested, pm me and i can get you the locatation of the distributers. good luck!!!! if you know somebody with a couple of fork lifts, use them to lift your boat. use straps with fork lifts. its the safest way. we also use special jacks that have these flat arms that we put under the boat and they lift the boat right up. usually 4 jacks per boat. :220v:

phebus
02-18-2006, 09:50 PM
The good news is my trailer only has two bunks to replace.
The bad news is they are 15' long 2x12"s
When I buy new boards, I am going to have to tow the boat and trailer to the store, so I can load the boards on the trailer to be able to bring the new boards home to carpet them. It's hard to transport a 15' board.

ROZ
02-18-2006, 11:57 PM
Maybe use a hard wood like Oak or Pau Lope? Might cost more but I shouldn't rot. Redwood is not very strong.
Teak would be a best bet.. very costly, though...

Riomouse911
02-19-2006, 12:08 AM
From what I recall, most pressure-treating is to deter insects from snacking on pine/fir wood, and doesn't do a huge amount for keeping water out... that plus it's toxic stuff, so I'd stay away from pressure treated wood.. I did the Thompson's water seal treatment to the wood 2 times then put the carpet on the runners using the c-clamp technique 'cause I was solo. This on a trailer I used to have and they are still working for the new owner.. mebbe that'll work for you as well as it did for me. :)

FOUNTAINATLAST
02-19-2006, 02:21 AM
Just as everyone here has stated, easy to replace at the lake. One thing that we have done with great success is to resin coat your wood. Water seal will only last so long but the resin coat completely seals the wood and if done right you should never have another problem. This is what most manufactures are doing to there interior parts and floors to make them last.

Riomouse911
02-19-2006, 03:37 AM
^Thats an even better idea. ^ :rollside:

Sherpa
02-19-2006, 06:39 AM
In planning on repairing trailer bunks, I'd either use a new hardwood that has
been dried for awhile, or buy some new PT wood, and put it in your garage
for awhile to let it shrink...... any new wood will shrink, so if you staple
carpet to new wood, and the wood shrinks, the carpet will be loose......
--Sherpa

Havasu Hangin'
02-19-2006, 06:53 AM
If you use a sealer (or resin) and drill a hole or staple into it, the water will get in, but won't be able to get out.

SmokinLowriderSS
02-19-2006, 08:08 AM
Took mine to the lake for the week of July 4th 2003. Took along 2 12' bunks, carpeted already, and lag-bolts to mount them. Painted the trailer the same week too, rust conversions, cleaning, primer, paint, pinstriping tape, all while Lowrider sat comfortably at anchor. Only way to do it.

Robert1050
02-19-2006, 11:26 AM
On my last trip out last October, my bunks floated loose for the 3rd time (over the last 6 years). I finally got around to re-doing them a couple of weeks ago:
1) Blocked the boat up one side at a time with a hydraulic jack & blocks of wood
2) Re-used the original bunks
3) Instead of using lag-bolts (again) like the factory, I drilled all of the holes through, counterbored the holes with a wing-drill & used SST hex head bolts and lock-nuts.
Oh, they are regular pine boards, untreated and with the carpet only over the top & sides - they're holding up just fine, no rot, no decay after 6 years.

2Driver
02-19-2006, 01:43 PM
Did mine a couple of years ago. Don't know the exact protocol ......... but I took measurements of the boards, new wood, new carpet, went to the lake, launched and replaced. Trailered boat and came home.
Exactly, Did same thing. I got the bunks carpeted and fully ready to go at home. Then went to the lake at an off time and launched. I installed them in the parking lot myself while my wife sunned in the boat. Just take your hardware and cordless drill (extra battery) with you as you can drill them there.
BTW: There is a little trick to getting the carpet to fold right over the ends of the bunks so it looks right.

2Driver
02-19-2006, 01:57 PM
Hey Guys Thanks A Lot
Last Question
Redwood Vs Treated Wood
Boatcop
Is Redwood Better
And Would Home Depot Have The Treated Wood, I Know They Have Redwood
Oh yeah, don't go to Home depot no matter what wood you choose.
I would find out where a commercial lumber store is near your home (usually where good home remodlers get their lumber) Go there and pick out a first grade 2x4 or 2x6. Fir is fine. You will get a better piece of wood less likley to warp and with little to no knots. Trust me when the stock warps over night by 3 inches and a big chunk falls out where there was a big knot you'll be pissed. :220v:

Focker
02-19-2006, 04:54 PM
On my last trip out last October, my bunks floated loose for the 3rd time (over the last 6 years). I finally got around to re-doing them a couple of weeks ago:
1) Blocked the boat up one side at a time with a hydraulic jack & blocks of wood
2) Re-used the original bunks
3) Instead of using lag-bolts (again) like the factory, I drilled all of the holes through, counterbored the holes with a wing-drill & used SST hex head bolts and lock-nuts.
Oh, they are regular pine boards, untreated and with the carpet only over the top & sides - they're holding up just fine, no rot, no decay after 6 years.
AT WHAT LOCATION UNDER THE BOAT DID YOU USE THE JACK
ALSO DID YOU USE TWO JACKS?

Focker
02-19-2006, 04:55 PM
Thanks To Everyone For All The Info

Hardly Satisfied
02-20-2006, 01:44 PM
Focker , we will be more than happy to take the boat out with your other better half and drink bloody marys while you repair your trailer, :rollside: :rollside:

Focker
02-20-2006, 02:42 PM
Works For Me
Castaic This Saturday

ThongMagnet
02-20-2006, 02:49 PM
It took me three hours to do them at the lake and it was 90 degrees. the asphalt was hot, and the job sucked. I had them ready to got before arriving at the lake.
Slip the boat for a day, and take them to a trailer repair shop. Let them look over the trailer for other problems (cracks in welds, rust, bearings, tires, brakes, brake cylinders), you might find a new trailer is the way to go. At 6 years old, your probably ok, but if your dunking it in salt water...maybe not.

Havasu Luvr
02-20-2006, 03:32 PM
I just dropped my trailer/boat off at Extreme this morning. Tony quoted me $400 to lift my 29' Shockwave and replace ALL 12 bunks w/new AND $150 to touch-up the hole (rust) and re-paint. He originally wanted $200 to make all new bunks with carpet and then only $200 for labor...CHEAP ! ! ! I find that to be a STEAL ! ! !. Good luck doing yours.....

HCS
02-20-2006, 04:18 PM
I just dropped my trailer/boat off at Extreme this morning. Tony quoted me $400 to lift my 29' Shockwave and replace ALL 12 bunks w/new AND $150 to touch-up the hole (rust) and re-paint. He originally wanted $200 to make all new bunks with carpet and then only $200 for labor...CHEAP ! ! ! I find that to be a STEAL ! ! !. Good luck doing yours.....
Cheater. :D

dmontzsta
02-20-2006, 04:28 PM
I have done this a few times, just did it last weekend. The best thing to do is measure you bunks first, then go buy the wood and cut it to length. Treat the wood really well with some thompsons, then carpet it, but leave the ends un-stapled. Go drop your boat in the local lake and anchor it. Go back to your truck and unbolt the old, bolt up the new, staple the ends and put her back on the trailer.

Havasu Luvr
02-20-2006, 05:09 PM
Cheater. :D
I've been called that before :yuk: but it's "Drama" Free :D

Focker
02-20-2006, 05:16 PM
I have done this a few times, just did it last weekend. The best thing to do is measure you bunks first, then go buy the wood and cut it to length. Treat the wood really well with some thompsons, then carpet it, but leave the ends un-stapled. Go drop your boat in the local lake and anchor it. Go back to your truck and unbolt the old, bolt up the new, staple the ends and put her back on the trailer.
why do u staple the ends after install?

Focker
02-26-2006, 04:23 PM
All Done
Did It At Buena Vista
Thanks To Everyone For All The Tips
Took About 1 And 1/2 Hours