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View Full Version : Intake/block oil leak, help ?



1968Droptop
07-19-2007, 11:13 PM
Anyone have a tried and true way to fix an intake manifold to block oil leak ? I know pulling the manifold and resealing it is the first answer, but I thought I'd ask and see if anyone has a better/proven method ? Thanks.

jbone
07-20-2007, 12:33 AM
Never done it before, but maybe if you cut/dig as much of the rtv out and clean it up real good, you could apply more black or grey rtv as deep as you can. Let it cure real good before trying it.
This would obviously be a temporary fix.

smokinjoe
07-20-2007, 01:27 AM
if your talking about the end rails here is what you do. if you have breathers on the valve covers you need to somehow plug them up with tape or a rag or something then take a shop vac and tape the hose to the oil filler hole in the valve cover (remove the cap first of course) you need to get it sealed good then when all of the holes are sealed to the cranckcase (breathers , pcv valves, oil caps , etc.) you turn on the vacume and take some brake cleaner and spray a little bit right betwen the block rail and manifold and the vacume will suck it through where ever it is not sealed then give it a few seconds to dry (vacume still running) then take some silicon and smash it up in there where the brake cleaner got sucked into the leak. but as soon as it draws the silicon in you have to shut the vacume off or it will just pull it through so you have to have good timing. and dont overload it with silicon as it will end up blocking your oil pickup screen if you load a bunch in there. I hope that makes sence. it works for me I have sealed all kinds of oil leaks that way on cars and boats and bikes. good luck!

Squirtin Thunder
07-20-2007, 01:28 AM
Anyone have a tried and true way to fix an intake manifold to block oil leak ? I know pulling the manifold and resealing it is the first answer, but I thought I'd ask and see if anyone has a better/proven method ? Thanks.
Chris don't half ass it you have worked too long and hard on this. Do it right.

IMPATIENT 1
07-20-2007, 08:18 AM
Chris don't half ass it you have worked too long and hard on this. Do it right.
i 2nd that! go get some general motors assembly adhesive and use that on the rails. the adhesive is harder than rtv but still "soft" , but its awesome! i used to build claimer motors when i ran dirt track, i'd only run the rear 2, frt 2 bolts, 2 in the center in the oil pan with no gasket, just the gm adhesive. had to keep it cheap cause i could get claimed for 350 bucks:rolleyes: ran 1 motor all season thatway and never had 1 leak. alky sbc turnin 6k all summer long!

1968Droptop
07-20-2007, 08:32 AM
Thanks for the tips, and good advice. I'll pop the intake off and do it right.

Cs19
07-20-2007, 08:36 AM
if your talking about the end rails here is what you do. if you have breathers on the valve covers you need to somehow plug them up with tape or a rag or something then take a shop vac and tape the hose to the oil filler hole in the valve cover (remove the cap first of course) you need to get it sealed good then when all of the holes are sealed to the cranckcase (breathers , pcv valves, oil caps , etc.) you turn on the vacume and take some brake cleaner and spray a little bit right betwen the block rail and manifold and the vacume will suck it through where ever it is not sealed then give it a few seconds to dry (vacume still running) then take some silicon and smash it up in there where the brake cleaner got sucked into the leak. but as soon as it draws the silicon in you have to shut the vacume off or it will just pull it through so you have to have good timing. and dont overload it with silicon as it will end up blocking your oil pickup screen if you load a bunch in there. I hope that makes sence. it works for me I have sealed all kinds of oil leaks that way on cars and boats and bikes. good luck!
Now that is clever but pretty "shadetree mechanic".
pull the manifold.

smokinjoe
07-20-2007, 02:28 PM
Maybe I missunderstood him I thought thats what he was looking for a quick way out. Shade tree ? yeah you could say that but Ive fixed a few leaks that are still holding to this day and if you looked at it you wouldnt even be able to see where it was fixed and it takes all of 20 min. and saves the cost of a new gasket set = more money for beer!

ap67et10
07-20-2007, 07:23 PM
working smarter not harder...I like it! however brakecleaner has a tendancy to destroy paint and that very very pretty new engine you have there doesn't deserve that...so i do agree the long way will pay off and you will be much happier knowing you won't give yourself the opportunity to screw something up. it seems the "smarter" ways have a love hate relationship (with me at least). I either love myself or hate myself when i'm done doing something the "smart" way.

PETEROC
07-20-2007, 07:50 PM
Now that is clever but pretty "shadetree mechanic".
pull the manifold.
Sometimes quality "shadetree" is a zen like art . I've experienced it occasionally and I was at peace with the mechanical universe. For a while anyway :D

eliminator cat
09-02-2007, 05:55 AM
Sometimes quality "shadetree" is a zen like art . I've experienced it occasionally and I was at peace with the mechanical universe. For a while anyway :D
How about a tree at Apache lake used to lift a motor to replace a starter...
"shadetree" at its best.

sanger rat
09-02-2007, 07:08 AM
if your talking about the end rails here is what you do. if you have breathers on the valve covers you need to somehow plug them up with tape or a rag or something then take a shop vac and tape the hose to the oil filler hole in the valve cover (remove the cap first of course) you need to get it sealed good then when all of the holes are sealed to the cranckcase (breathers , pcv valves, oil caps , etc.) you turn on the vacume and take some brake cleaner and spray a little bit right betwen the block rail and manifold and the vacume will suck it through where ever it is not sealed then give it a few seconds to dry (vacume still running) then take some silicon and smash it up in there where the brake cleaner got sucked into the leak. but as soon as it draws the silicon in you have to shut the vacume off or it will just pull it through so you have to have good timing. and dont overload it with silicon as it will end up blocking your oil pickup screen if you load a bunch in there. I hope that makes sence. it works for me I have sealed all kinds of oil leaks that way on cars and boats and bikes. good luck!
I tried the vacume cleaner deal. It works!

Ken F
09-02-2007, 05:54 PM
Chris,
I've fixed that same leak twice on my 460 by using carb cleaner on a rag, and wiping along to two surfaces really good, and getting as much silicone off of the block/intake as you can. then take some black RTV & smear a good bit across the mating surfaces on the outside of the engine.
It's not Permanente, but it will run you the rest of the season.
Hope that helps...
Ken