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View Full Version : It's time to begin - Helping the new guy



Thunderbolt
07-22-2007, 05:27 AM
Hiya folks.. It's time to get the thing in the run mode but I got a few issues and hopefully, with your help, I can get things worked out.. I can get pics of anything we talk about to help..Sorry if I don't know the correct terminology about some of the stuff but I'll try..
1st off "Who is" the wiring guru around here?
2nd Since I have a olds engine, the parts and accessories seem to be few and far between accessible.. so.. IF I were to change over to say ford or chevy {doesn't matter to me to much} what exactly would I have to do to make sure it hooks up.. meaning is there a plate or something I'd have to change between drive and motor?
3rd on the trailer problem.. no more problem :) got a newer one
3rd I know, from reading around here, that gelcoat does wonders. but I am wanting my boat a different color now the question here is do I have to sand it all the way down or just give it a really good sanding to put on the new paint and when its done then have it gelcoated {1st time I redid a boat}?
4th Were is a good place to find accessories for the boat, I am in need of a couple gauges but I am inclined to replace em all with updated equipment. Would I be looking for marine gauges or will reg auto gauges work?
5th If I keep this motor... it has points in the distributor.. I would like to change it over to HEI distributor.. is there any big issues to do this.. what would I have to do?..
Sorry for the lack of knowledge about this.. but 1 thing is for sure... when I am done, I know more then I do now :D
Any and all help is appreciated as I am kinda new to this..I am not looking to build a MONSTER persay.. just trying to make it a good reliable go getter..
Thanks
James

Wet Dream
07-22-2007, 06:14 AM
1. Wiring is simple. Have a friend help, get a book and dive into it.
2. Get rid of the Olds. You'll need a new PTO to pump shaft and possibly coupler end to PTO
3a. Thats up to you. Extending the tongue seems fairly easier and cheaper than a new trailer.
4. Summitracing.com
5. Ditch the coil, add the HEI, one power wire to the HEI for IGN, and one wire to the TACH, time it and go.

DelawareDave
07-22-2007, 06:36 AM
Wiring is not that bad. I got spools of the different colors normally used to make it easier. Now, and later.
I got all new gauges, since all I had were a bunch of used ones, and didn't know their condition.
I have an Olds. So far, so good. I have a couple of spares, just in case! ;) I used a Mallory Unilite to eliminate the points. I still have the original points distributor. There are quite a few boats out there still running points, but I would convert to electronic, and I personally wouldn't use an HEI. Too big and ugly. :rolleyes: Unilite conversion kit or Pertronix.
As far as the trailer- weigh the tongue to make sure the boat is not too far forward. My tailgate opens, but there isn't a lot of room past it.
Gelcoat is good, but expensive to have done. Paint is fine, but good prep is the key.

nitro557
07-22-2007, 06:55 AM
my thoughts are for the money your looking at spending ,redoing powertrain,wiring and paint,the money to do all that even if you do the labor really isnt worth it on that hull
youd be way ahead to sell what you got and buy something that is more to your likeing to use as a start point
if you do decide to put the effort into this hull,strip it all out and get the paint work done ,gel is very nice but high dollar to get a whole boat done with a different color,fill the holes in the stringers,redo the interior then do the basic wire harness and guages,next lay the motor of choice in it and get the pump freshened up to ,lots of work
as far as help goes your at a good place to get it lots of people here that have done everything that you want to do and will give you helpful info to do it

Thunderbolt
07-22-2007, 03:21 PM
cool thats a start ... anyone else..?
The interior except the gauges was freshly done including the carpet before I got it..
I just got the boat so I won't be selling it anytime soon.. the V hull is fine for now, like I said I'm not building a racer.. maybe done the road

nitro557
07-22-2007, 03:25 PM
if i were you then id do the wireing with all new guages,autometers do fine with being weathered,fix the trailer up stick with the olds motor if it runs good why change it?but go with a unilite ignition set up go out and run and enjoy the boat

Thunderbolt
07-23-2007, 12:05 PM
OK the wiring shouldn't be a problem I hope, found out today the alt is bad so I have to get a new one of those,
then I'm going to run all new wires everywere,
the gauges will be SS Competition Series all of them will be replaced
now I am waiting on Hardin Marine, there checking to see if they have any info on my motor

JOHNNYBEGOOD
07-23-2007, 12:26 PM
Thunderbolt,
The one thing I have learned from redoing my old 78 Rogers is take your time and do not get in a hurry.
I stripped mine down to the bare hull this winter. I have yet to get it in the water this year. Everything seems like it just takes forever to do. There is always changes in your plans and that slows things down even more. I decided to go with Predator Carbs and just got the metering cams I needed. That alone took three weeks for my order to come in.
I went with Autometer gauges. The trick with the wiring is to think about what you are doing and plan to add stuff down the road. Get about 15 diffrent colors of wires. Pull all the wires through a loom. That way when you decide that you want to add something the wire is already there. Just keep the unused wires tucked inside the loom. This will make a nice neat job.
I went with MSD iginition, billet distrubitor and blaster coil. MSD plug wires that we cut ourself. This also keeps everything neat and clean looking.
Good luck with your project. It will be lots of fun.

nitro557
07-23-2007, 12:58 PM
johnny the preds are great carbs but dont run a scoop on them the forced air opens the metering flap more and makes it run very rich,run air filters on top
:)

Thunderbolt
07-23-2007, 02:50 PM
JOHNNYBEGOOD
Thats some cool ideas, I had already thought of the loom,I got about 15 ft of chrome here left over from a truck I did awhile back the guy said keep the left over.. now I got a use for it lol
I know that everything is in the preping of the boat before paint and I have no problem sanding.. The paint I am looking at is Metalic cameleon{sp} blue to red I think I forget the number right now.. but would I have to take it all the way down? this paint has a special black primer filler you apply before you shoot the paint.. just curious.. I mean don't get me wrong if its got to be done so be it but if it doesn't have to....
I may pre-test the color on the engines front cover to see how it looks before I do the whole boat..

JOHNNYBEGOOD
07-24-2007, 04:51 AM
johnny the preds are great carbs but dont run a scoop on them the forced air opens the metering flap more and makes it run very rich,run air filters on top
:)
Nitro,
I was always told that a little rich was not a bad thing. If you are going to error, to error on the fat side. But I will keep that in mind ( wanna buy a new dooley scoop?).
A buddy of mine swears by them. He runs them on his jet boat, ski boat with a bbc, and on his blown bbc in a street rod. I think he even has a couple on the shelf just incase.

nitro557
07-24-2007, 08:01 PM
ive got a couple myself,but from personal experience if you run a scoop turn it backwards on these carbs,they meter great without the extra,the extra just adds to the top plate opening more turning the cam more and bingo your rich
the bud bog and monster truck guys love them but at the same time they never get enough speed going to over ffed them,if you buddy that runs them on the street has a scoop tell him to try them with out it or turn it around he will love the difference

JOHNNYBEGOOD
07-25-2007, 03:29 AM
My pig is so heavy and under powered that it aint going to move much faster than a mud bogger.
I will keep your advice under advisement, thanks.

Thunderbolt
07-25-2007, 07:06 PM
Is that Mallory Unilite a 42 series?

Thunderbolt
07-29-2007, 07:28 AM
guess I'll dig a little deeper.. on that question..
Ok heres another one..
if ya had the option of elec. or Mech gauges.. which would you go with and why??.. {I order my new set in 2 weeks, just trying to get it right the 1st time}

moparjet
07-29-2007, 07:53 AM
guess I'll dig a little deeper.. on that question..
Ok heres another one..
if ya had the option of elec. or Mech gauges.. which would you go with and why??.. {I order my new set in 2 weeks, just trying to get it right the 1st time}
i run a mech. oil pressure and boost and the rest are electric...i just like to know my oil pressure is real...the problem is routing the coppper tube all the way to the front of boat

DelawareDave
07-29-2007, 10:47 AM
Is that Mallory Unilite a 42 series?Mine is 25 converted to 37 series. Gauges are electric, plus mechanical O/P and F/P on the engine.

Thunderbolt
07-29-2007, 01:35 PM
ok cool.. not enough answers to see a trend but..
Basically what I see is
if it's Electrical run Elec.. ie: battery, alt and so forth
if its Mechanical run Mech.. ie: oil, fuel, boost etc etc..
correct?

supersoaker509
07-29-2007, 02:12 PM
I'm with DelawareDave just run all Elc gauges in the dash and a mech. OP and FP on the motor

Thunderbolt
08-06-2007, 03:58 PM
ok I got the trailor problem solved.. I found a refurbished Stratos 16.5 trailor, within the budget.. has new everything including wheels, tires and bearings, all new LED lights, everything on the tongue is new - straps, hitch and so forth only thing I see I'll have to redo is the paint, its a greyish color.. soon as I get it I'll pop a couple pics up..
James