Rex electric engine hatch actuator

[BrendellaJet]

Boat has one of these. Opens pretty slow. Currently it is placed in the center of the hatch. Id like to place the hatch mount closer towards the transom to speed it up. anyone know if they will handle this? I dont know what the hatch weighs. Its a wood hatch that has been upholstered.

[Daytona100]

How do you have it wired? Might just need to run a relay to speed things up. Mike:idea:

[BrendellaJet]

Ill have to look. Its probably attached right to the battery, 5 feet away.

[Rexone]

The older actuators are all rated at 500 lb. That is 500 lb of force, not necessarily meaning it takes a 500 lb hatch to stall it out depending on mounting angle and leverage.
We have a new faster motor but consequently its only rated at 250 lb. It's just a geared up version, designed for hatches that don't require more than 250 lb of force to lift. We also still have the 500 pounders as well.
On the current issue... Voltage drop is critical on these motors. "If" you're running the voltage to the dash and back this is likely the source of the problem. First thing to do is check the voltage at the motor when raising and lowering.
If the juice is running to the dash and you have a voltage drop I recommend you run a 10 gauge wire up and back rather than the normally stock 14 or 16 that's factory installed in the loom. It's irrelevent that the wire on the motor lead is small. The voltage drop occurs in connections and over the length of the long wire to the dash when you start trying to pull max amperage through it.
Or you can run a relay box (we no longer build them because of unreliability of the quality of the relays, but that's a whole nother story). The 10ga wire to the dash normally fixes the problem. Many times we see this in older boats. Over time corrosion sets in on connections and just a little or a loose connection on an already too small wire for the requirements causes it to slow down, and can cause the motor to fail as well. Just my experience with these over the years.
Give a call if you need any help. :)

[Danhercules]

Just my experience with these over the years.
:)
What makes you a pro?:devil: :D :) :D :)

[BDMar]

On the current issue... Voltage drop is critical on these motors. "If" you're running the voltage to the dash and back this is likely the source of the problem. First thing to do is check the voltage at the motor when raising and lowering.
If the juice is running to the dash and you have a voltage drop I recommend you run a 10 gauge wire up and back rather than the normally stock 14 or 16 that's factory installed in the loom. It's irrelevent that the wire on the motor lead is small. The voltage drop occurs in connections and over the length of the long wire to the dash when you start trying to pull max amperage through it.
We find this every time a customer complains of a slow actuator. Good advice.

[Rexone]

What makes you a pro?:devil: :D :) :D :)
Not a thing. :D
I learned 2 things this past week I'd never seen before. :D
1. You can run a ujoint on a jet out of grease to the point it seizes up and snaps the end of the pump shaft off as well as busting the driveline.
2. It is possible to install a Morse steering helm backwards on the back side of the dash and make it work by cutting the plastic bezel in half.
The slow hatch complaint is a fairly common one in older boats. I'll never understand why factories installed them with the small wiring for that many amps over that length. Well yes actually I do I guess.... that's what was in the wiring loom.... and they were much cheaper than making one correctly with the right size wire for the application... :rolleyes:

[BrendellaJet]

Thanks Mike, Ill check it out. Im sure thats the problem.