Bottom damage......some progress

[Squirtcha?]

I'm tired of itchin like a bitch so thought I'd relax and put up a couple pictures.
First, both sides have a 1/4" dip between the transom and a point 5' forward of that. Classic blueprint, just not in the area that you would typically be concerned with.
Anyway since it needs to be built up to strengthen it anyway, I might as well make it flat too right?
First had to figure out a way to reshape the broken strake.
Remember what it looked like after knocking off all the bad glass?
http://www.jetheaven.us/photopost/data/500/19broke_through.jpg
Figured that if I stack pieces up to form a shelf or overhang, and then just sand it back flush, to reform the strake and strengthen it at the same time.
http://www.jetheaven.us/photopost/data/500/19Buildup.jpg
That's about 1/8" build up and still needs some more layers, but you get the idea. You can see where the old strake is, then the newer layers on top of that.
http://www.jetheaven.us/photopost/data/500/19rebuilt.jpg
Found this to be interesting. This is the second strake out from the center (starboard). As you can see it measures 24cm tall.
http://www.jetheaven.us/photopost/data/500/19difference_2.jpg
Here's the second strake out from center port (other side). It's 16cm tall. I've never touched this area prior to doing this repair. I noticed it was like that last year when I had it flipped and wondered why. Since I wasn't blueprinting that area, I left it alone.
Apparently it came out of the mold that way and I'm wondering if they're all like this, and how much if any difference it makes. Probably none, but I thought it was interesting just the same. In any case, I'm gonna make em the same height. I figure that's the way they were intended to be.
http://www.jetheaven.us/photopost/data/500/19difference_1.jpg
The buildup is only about half done and I can already tell that the area is much stronger than it was before. I only put up pictures of a small area, but the entire patch (rebuilt) area is about 50" long and a couple feet wide on either side. I'm doing both sides because I figure it would've only been a matter of time before that side decided to cut loose too.
It'll be lots heavier, but at least I know it won't fall apart...............again.

[Ken F]

Hey Dan, looking good! Looks like you're on a downhill run from here eh?
You know if you take the offset out of the strakes it's going to go in a circle when you let go of the wheel. Sheesh...that's kinda hard to believe isn't it?
You would think that they would have taken a LITTLE more care on their plug.....who knows who's boat it was! lol
Good luck, and cold showers!
Ken F

[bottom feeder]

Dan,
Looking good. It is great to see your step by step write ups. By the way that is a english scale 32nds and 64ths on that side. strake would be 24/32 high. Keep up the great work
Best regards

[bradbigsley]

im no pro but that looks like nice clean work. looks like your gonna be bullett proof for years to come. i too like your step by step pics. maybe next year i'll get around to flipping mine over..

[Squirtcha?]

Dan,
Looking good. It is great to see your step by step write ups. By the way that is a english scale 32nds and 64ths on that side. strake would be 24/32 high. Keep up the great work
Best regards
Awwww Damnit, is my ignorance showing again. Shows ya how much I don't know. Thanks for the clarification. Oh yeah, lookie there it says it right on the ruler! One thing I do know..............one strake is a lot bigger than the other. LOL :)

[Wicked Performance Boats]

I love the step by step photos. Keep em coming. I think I'm itching myself now. Budlight

[Squirtcha?]

Another thing I found interesting and I noticed it last year when I had it upside down............the strakes are almost entirely made up of resin and/or gelcoat. I always figured that they'd be some mat in the somewhere. Maybe that's why they chip so easily. In the first photo where the old resin has been removed you can see what's left of the strake (not very much). I guess it makes sense though. the first thing into the mold would be gelcoat and resin.
I'm using some 1.5 oz material just because it's easier for a rookie like me to work with (easier to get good saturation on). It takes forever to build up an 1/8". That's like 8 layers just to get this far.

[78Southwind]

Dan
Did you check the inside of the boat too? Just asking because If I remember right the inside of your hull is painted. Last April I had a gelcoat crack by one of the lifting strakes. Tim offered to help me fix so I brought it down to his house and after taking a look at the strakes on the inside we found cracks that ran about 4’. Dan Hercules also had the same problem a couple of years ago. Wouldn't hurt to check if you haven't done so yet we all pretty much have the same hull.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/167678Southwind_AirBubble.JPG
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/167678Southwind_AfterGrinding.JPG

[Squirtcha?]

Yupper absolutely. I thought of you and Herc when I found the damage.
The plan is to run a couple repairs on the inside too.
That first picture at the beginning of this thread where you see the crack? It actually goes all the way through the bottom.
When I ground the gelcoat off the unbroken side, you could see where the resin had cracked all the way down the strake due to flexing n such. It would've broken in time too.
I'll be patching inside and out on both sides and that oughta do it.
Thanks for mentioning it.
Dan.
P.S. I would strongly urge anyone with a Southwind 18 or Kachina (or other splashes of the Southwind) to watch these areas very closely. I don't know what would've happened if I was running 85 mph and it would've delamed to the point where water would've rushed in. I don't think it would've been pretty though.

[Wicked Performance Boats]

Yupper absolutely. I thought of you and Herc when I found the damage.
The plan is to run a couple repairs on the inside too.
That first picture at the beginning of this thread where you see the crack? It actually goes all the way through the bottom.
When I ground the gelcoat off the unbroken side, you could see where the resin had cracked all the way down the strake due to flexing n such. It would've broken in time too.
I'll be patching inside and out on both sides and that oughta do it.
Thanks for mentioning it.
Dan.
P.S. I would strongly urge anyone with a Southwind 18 or Kachina (or other splashes of the Southwind) to watch these areas very closely. I don't know what would've happened if I was running 85 mph and it would've delamed to the point where water would've rushed in. I don't think it would've been pretty though.Dan, Julie & I know exactly what will happen, remember it happened to us at Needles. It's why I never will have carpet in a lighter layup boat. You can't see what the fiberglass is doing on the inside. Budlight

[Squirtcha?]

Yeah, I remember Pat. So that's why the backend of your old boat blew out like that? I never fully understood what had happened til now. I thought you two caught a rock or something.
That was pretty amazing.
Aren't there some pictures of that somewhere?
Ah here we go.......
http://www.jetheaven.us/photopost/data/500/19Pat_n_Julie.jpg
http://www.jetheaven.us/photopost/data/500/19Pat_n_Julie_II.jpg
So that was a delamination too eh? Needless to say guys, she sunk like a stone after this. Fortunately it was only in a couple feet of water at the time.
I don't think they were gong all that fast either..............Pat???
I guess we all need to remember that most our boats are 20-30 years old and stuff like this could happen to any of us. Just because they've lasted this long doesn't mean they'll last forever. Keep an eye on your equipment. The speeds that lots of us are running these days........a delamination at WOT could get really really nasty.
Just prior to us trailering up and noticing the damage, My girlfriend, son and myself were skipping across Saguaro Lake at about 75 mph. Oblivious to the condition of the bottom.

[old rigger]

Hey squirtcha,
very nice work.
A few things if you don't mind.
See in this picture where you've ground away the damage, which is good, but you've left the sharp, 90 degree angle of the strake? That's not as good.
http://www.jetheaven.us/photopost/data/500/19difference_2.jpg
You should grind away any sharp angle like that, make it round over and then build it up with glass. You want to grind that strake back into shape.
Your new bond, at least half of the layers, should be one continious layer of mat that go from the top of the strake (with the boat upside down) down the strakes side and onto the bottom of the boat. That way you wont have that weak spot where the 2 layers meet each other at the sharp point of the strake. That make sense?
The way you're building up the strake is fine, that part is great. I would have liked to have seen you round off the corner, layed a layer of mat over the rounded off strake and then built up from there but that 's OK. Besides, it's not my boat and this is just my opinion (covering my ass from now on. lol)
Just make sure your final 2 layers are one piece covering the entire work area. This is very important in the area you're working in, and with the speeds you guys are running. Most of the failures you see today are a result of the big horsepower and the fantastic speeds seen today in 30 year old boats that were meant to cruise the river at 55 mph all day (on a good day with a tail wind).
I'm glad you said you're moving to the inside of the boat and are going to do some glass work there too. As strong as the work is that you've done now, it won't all come together until you've glassed over the damaged spot inside too. As long as you're in there, why not get some 1/4 round stock and bond it in the strakes? It'll make that bottom bullit proof and it's very easy to do.
The reason you're seeing so much gel and resin in the corner of the strakes is becaues it's next to imposible to get the air out of a corner like that when you're bonding in the glass, glass won't bend in a corner like that with out liftting. The gel takes the sharpness out of it, allows you to lay the glass. But we've all seen strakes with big 1/4 inch size holes in them from the gel falling out at the lightest touch. Some builder kinda cheated in this area back in the day. Cut corners in other words.
I love seeing the pictures. keep them coming and stay away from the hot showers until you've washed the glass off ya in a cool shower. A hot shower will just bury the little glass shavings further in your pores. :)

[Squirtcha?]

I would have liked to have seen you round off the corner, layed a layer of mat over the rounded off strake and then built up from there but that 's OK. Besides, it's not my boat and this is just my opinion (covering my ass from now on. lol)
O.k. now ya went and did it! Here comes the barrage of questions.
Thanks a bunch for looking in and giving me some input OR. I really appreciate it. I wish I'd have asked for some input prior to going as far as I have.
I was a little concerned about taking two corners (covering the strake with a continuous piece). I didn't know if the glass could bend the 90 degrees twice and still adhere without air pockets etc.? Or is this where the rounding off thing comes into play? Would it be better to use cloth rather than the mat? If you could offer up any techniques I would greatly appreciate it.
It sounds like good advice and I can understand where it would greatly increase the strength of the strake/bottom. Like I said I'm only built up to about 50% of what it needs to be so it comes out flat. I can still do this for the remainder of the buildup.
Thanks again for the advice. I don't profess to be a boat repair dude, so I'll take any and all information I can get.
Oh yeah, one more question. When you said to reinforce the inside of the strake with 1/4 round. Are you saying to use 1/4 round wood dowell and soak it with resin, then put the patch over that? Pardon my ignorance on this one.
P.S. this is a big part of the reasoning behind putting the pictures up. Hoping someone will catch my messups prior to getting too far.