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View Full Version : 1986 evinrude 225 - Overheating



cfauvel
04-06-2002, 03:27 PM
Symptom - Over heating, and no water coming from pee tube (what I call it)
took the lower unit off and inspected the water pump and found it to be perfectly fine.
The key was still in place and not boogered up, the impeller was fine and not boogered up.
Took a thermostat out and found the area behind the 'stat to be bone dry.
re-installed and a bit of water was coming out of the pee tube, like it usually does before the 'stats open up. Stopped the engine to do something and restarted and no water came out of the pee tube this time.
removed the lower unit one more time looked at the impeller again and all seems fine.
tomorrow I will reinstall and leave the 'stats out to see if water is getting up there.
Is it possible for a water pump to be bad even though it looks fine and doesn't slip past the key?
thanks
Chris

ratso
04-06-2002, 03:45 PM
Make sure you didn't miss your water tube while putting the lower unit on.

HavasuDreamin'
04-06-2002, 06:22 PM
As ratso said, there is a tube running from the top part of the gearcase up the mid-section to the block. Has to be connected to both ends (obviously).
Do you run in salt water? Corrosion?

snappertapper
04-06-2002, 07:33 PM
take the gearcase back off and look underneath the motor you will see a tube sticking down, put a water hose around it and turn it on. it will obviously leak somewhat but it should then pee when ever you turn the water on. if it does then put the gearcase back on making sure the water tube is inserted in the water pump housing if so then you should be back in business. Please email me with anymore questions about this motor since loop-chargde omc's are my speciality. Bigfish1229@aol.com
P.S. Did you ever get your trim problem fixed

cfauvel
04-07-2002, 09:28 AM
To all,
I was careful that the water tube was in fact back in the tube on the water pump, and like I said water was temporarily coming out of the pee tube until I stopped the engine and re-started it.
I did place a water hose up into the water tube to see if the water passage was clogged, and saw some water coming out of the pee tube, but not a steady flow because the was was cold and the thermostats we also cold.
I'm going to re-run that test with the thermostats out to see if the water is reaching the top of the block then re-attached the thermostat housing minus the actual 'stats to see if water comes out of the pee tube.
then finally just get a new impeller, even though this one looks fine.
If I do get water through the stats and pee tube with the lower unit off, any other suggestions?
thanks in advance to all.
Chris
Note, still fighting to get the lower pivot bar out of the mid section (for the tilt ram)
:-)

cfauvel
04-13-2002, 07:33 PM
whew finally got it working. Bought a new water pump kit and re-installed the lower unit (tough doing by yourself). Tried the engine..same thing no water...can we say pissed?
Lowered the lower unit and verified that I infact got the water tube in the water pump. Re-tried ..same thing....ok now really pissed.
Lowered the unit again....put it on sawhorse and dismanted the water pump to see if the impeller was toast...it wasn't every thing looked fine.
hooked up my rabbit ears and looked to see if water, came up through the water tube...finally realized that it won't until the shaft is moving..so rotated it a bit and some water came out (note to self...have machine build me a primer attachment so I can turn the shaft while the lower unit is out...and sell it).
BUT what I did noticed was that I had to jiggle the rabbit ears for the water to come out of the various other holes in the lower unit. HMMMMMMM?? could it have been this from the get go? I wonder.
Reassembled the water pump, finally got my wife to help (was getting tired by this time) to re-install the lower unit.
re-started the engine..but held the rabbit ears in place. et voila the water started coming out.
I KNOW the tube was in the water pump every single time I installed the lower unit. So what gives? my guess is the rabbit ears...time to get new ones.
at least I have a new water pump for the season.
tata for now...going to take some muscle relaxers(Bahama Mammas and Pina Coladas) and pass out. :-)

Skaterfast
04-15-2002, 08:19 AM
Yes an impeller can look good and still not give sufficient presure.

cfauvel
05-01-2002, 03:36 AM
On the latest trip the pee tube was indicating perfect water pressure and the boat ran fine....
however on the way back we heard the siren come on steady ...we were running about 4000rpm, the pee tube indicator seemed fine and my temp guage for the left head indicated about 140. As soon as I backed off to idle (nearing the manatee zone) the siren stopped.
isn't the steady on siren indication of over heating? Could the temp sender for the siren be malfunctioning after over heating in the yard a while back?

snappertapper
05-01-2002, 06:32 AM
cut the sender wire from the head and try it if it stops buzzing then u have a bad sending unit

WILDTHING
05-10-2002, 11:48 AM
I have a 3oohp. rude and mine did the same thing , take out those thermos stats and replace with 93 model .............

cfauvel
05-10-2002, 04:10 PM
wildthing
Are you saying that the '93 thermos fit in place of the '86?
The thermos were replaced a few years ago.
wouldn't brand new thermos for the '86 be correct?
I need to buy the temp. crayons to know for sure if it is still overheating.

WILDTHING
05-10-2002, 05:08 PM
85-87 have that shitty tuned crap....mechanic told me to use the 93 model...those that we have let our boats run to cool...If you want I can phone him and get the part # from him....

cfauvel
05-10-2002, 06:09 PM
Wildthing,
Sure thing, get me the part numbers if you can. You think they'll fit on a v6? isn't a 300hp a v8
I concur that it seems that the engine always seemed pretty cool. But I've read that the 160degree crayon should not melt, so working temp should be less than 160, and I'm guess more than 140.
Checkout the photos for my other problem regarding the lower pivot point for the tilt ram. http://home1.gte.net/res00jqz/225evinrude/index.html
click on "see photos"...the problem was/is that I couldn't get the lower pivot bar out for the tilt ram...so I became worried and wonder if it is supposed to slide out, like the "thrust rod" located near by.
I haven't been working on it for a while..my next attempts will include a torch to heat the area then grinding one side into a hex (as best as I can) then use an impact wrench to try to turn it. If i can turn it then it should come out.
it looks to me that it IS designed to have the tilt ram come out so that the middle section and can be replaced whilst the engine is mounted (like the use of proper english?).
Regards
Chris

WILDTHING
05-12-2002, 11:33 AM
cauvel...........
Mine is a V8, but this guy should be able to come up with something for your application, he closed for the weekend so I will try to get it tomorrow for you. Yes you can do it with the motor on the boat..
REMOVING THE POWERTRIM&TILT UNIT...
1. Operate the unit and engage the tilt trail lock.!UNDER SOME FULL TILT OONDITIONS WHERE THE ENGINE'S GEARCASE IS REMOVED, THE TRIM AND TILT UNIT COULD BE OUT OF SEQUENCE, NOT FULLY SUPPORTING THE ENGINE'S WEIGHT.SO USE A SUITABLE HOIST OR TRILERING ARM'S.
2. Lossen the starboard tilt tube nut's 2 turn's.
3. Lossen the upper and lower starboard motor mount screw's
4. Remove the spring clip from the tilt cylinder pin.
5. Remove the tilt pin with a punch andd mallet.
6. Lower the tilt cylinder to full "trim in " position.
7.Remove the 2 sending unit screw's
8. Remove the 2 tilt cylinder bushing's.
9. Remove the green and blue wire's from the pump motor connecter housing.
10. Using OMC pinremoval tool remove the the 2 sending unit wire's from the receptacle.
11.Remove the 8 manifold screw's (4 port and 4 starboard).
12. Remove one nut from each of the thrust rod's. Remove the thrust rod's from the stern bracket's.
13. Pull the trim and tilt unit out and up, away from the stern bracket's.Pull the sending unit and pump motor wiring harness through the port stern bracket.
This is long and hope it work's...you should really soak them down with "WD 40"...later...KIM...........

WILDTHING
05-15-2002, 01:59 PM
cfauvel.........
To change over..#333967-cover need 2
#32980-Gasket need2
#434137-thermostates, Black one's are good , White garbage
#336416-seats for thermos...He told me that it will make it run better, and alot less smoke...KIM.....

cfauvel
05-15-2002, 07:01 PM
thanks for the reply on the parts...
I'm familiar with the set up of the thermos..and have seen the seat you are refering to, but have no clue how to remove them without messing something up.
do you know how?

WILDTHING
05-21-2002, 06:24 PM
Sorry, I don't ...but I can ask ...ask "RATSO"...