Lightning header plumbing Q's

[Danhercules]

I know how the plumbing was on my O/T header boat.
I dont know about the jacketed headers. Dose all the water go through the headers? No dump line?
In from pump, though regulater, "T" and in the front water pump block off. Then two lines out the T-stat housing to the headers. THis is what I am guessing.
What size hose to run? I am gonna eventually go with A/N, but for now just rubber hose. I want to put the A/N fittings in so all I have to do is change out the hose. A/N to a hose barb. What size? -8 for water in and water to the headers? If so, what is that in rubber hose size?
Any other suggestions?

[BrendellaJet]

on my indmar manifolds there are two dumps to the manifolds, and one overboad. this is on my 502. I haven't seen the overboard dump flowing any water...
on my 548 Im set up a little different, but will be doing what you are doing. but right now running 2 overboard dumps.
Im not sure what compression you are running, but if its anything near 11:1 and on pump gas you are going to need to watch the water pressure to make sure there are no steam pockets inside the block to keep detonation at bay. You might be able to get away with running two dumps right to the exhaust with no overboard. Currently my motor runs -10 from the pump, "T" to two -8s in, 2 -8's out. Im having a problem building block pressure (have only seen 10 psi)since the lines are the same size, so I may need to restrict the exits some.

[Lightning]

I read this for a second, and thought you needed to ask me a question....carry on.

[jbone]

I know how the plumbing was on my O/T header boat.
I dont know about the jacketed headers. Dose all the water go through the headers? No dump line?
In from pump, though regulater, "T" and in the front water pump block off. Then two lines out the T-stat housing to the headers. THis is what I am guessing.
What size hose to run? I am gonna eventually go with A/N, but for now just rubber hose. I want to put the A/N fittings in so all I have to do is change out the hose. A/N to a hose barb. What size? -8 for water in and water to the headers? If so, what is that in rubber hose size?
Any other suggestions?
This is how I routed mine, but I used -10 AN. My regulator that is the first thing in line has a bypass dump hose. I don't know if anything is acutually bypassed, just insurance to keep from making the milkshake.
J

[Nucking futs]

Dude, I got you covered.Just get it dynod and get it over here.:D

[Danhercules]

Dude, I got you covered.Just get it dynod and get it over here.:D
I need to know cause I am getting fittings. Call me

[flat broke]

Dan,
Do yourself a favor and just run AN braided from the get go. If you buy the AN adpater fittings to mount in the headers and block, you'll have to buy separate barbed push on AN hose ends, then turn around and buy braided hose ends when you go to re-do it. Buy once, cry once. Call up Superdave and I'll bet you get handled for less than you think.
You'll probably want to run -8 or -10 out of your water outlet divider to the headers, and run a -10 from the pump/regulator/valve up to a T, then into the ports on your water pump block off plate. That's all there is to it. A lot easier than an injected OT setup.
Chris

[kachina_labala]

I had an issue changing from basset injected to lightnings. One of the issues I had was the lightnings came with reduced flow hose barbs, Be sure not to use those. After I figured that out the lightnings still didnt flow enough water to properly cool the motor on W.O.T runs. I finally figured out what worked best for me.
I run from the pump through a pressure regulating device to the motor. All of the water goes through the motor. On my intake manifold I have a outlet fitting just below the thermostat that I hosed, using a t, to the headers. I then have a thermostat in the thermostat housing and an overboard dump hose above that. All of the water normally flows to the headers to keep them loaded properly unless the temp gets to high and then the thermostat opens and allows additional flow through the motor to bring the temp back down.
Temps seem to be pretty solid now no wake, full speed it seems to manage the water well.
One thought I had about the reduced flow barbs is they should be installed in the back pipes. It seems at Idle (low water flow) the rear two pipes get all of the water because the arc they go over is lower than the two front pipes causing the top of the front two pipes to get hot. (water seeking its own level). I thought maybe reducing the flow to the back / lower two pipes may use the water flow better / balance the flow.

[kachina_labala]

Double post

[BrendellaJet]

anybody have pics of how their lightnings are plumbed? Seems like you shouldn't have to run a thermostat. I know one guy for sure will backhand me if he sees one on my motor...

[kachina_labala]

Im just stating what worked for me. It seems there are tons of ways to properly run the water. You could read posts here for weeks. Regulator, gate valve, pressure bypass, filters hose sizes ect. For me, I had all of the parts and it seemed like a way to insure that if the motor needed more water it could get it. I'm happy with it. The thermostat is really just an insurance policy for me. I had the rex thermostat housing and I wasn't happy with that at all but some people swear by them. I dunno...each to his own.
My real point is be cautious the first few times out. Watch the temps and pressure closely. Changing the hosing can lead to problems on the water. Regretfully I speak from experience on that one.:rolleyes:

[BrendellaJet]

Wasn't knocking your setup. I was told to not run a thermostat by the engine builder. I need 20-25 psi at WOT. whatever I generate at the lower RPM's with that high rpm pressure set will be adequate. Dont need the thermostat making decisions for my motor that could potentially result in a pressure reduction and cause hot spots in the cylinder head and eventually lead to a wounded motor.

[flat broke]

Brian,
I don't have any pics right at the moment, but it is about as simple as it gets. I have a Teague stainless water crossover inlet on the water pump holes in the block. That is fed off the pump with an inline regulator. -10 from the reg to the crossover, then a Teague stainless outlet/divider with one port going to each header. Again using -10 hose between the outlet and the lightnings. I used AN/pipe adapters on the lightning water manifolds and taped the I.D. of the manifold to accept the fitting. No reducers etc. The only thing that is actually specific to my setup is that I have a huge 4" oil cooler sitting in line between the reg and the crossover/inlet. As per that crazy engine builder's recommendation, I had the regulator setup so that the block pressure got right to 20psi (21 to be exact) at WOT. If Dan talked to Jan about his cam specs before his headers were built, the collectors should be long enough to avoid any reversion issues, and use the full flow plumbing laid out above.
Chris