mount question

[suckin&pumpin]

so I sheared both bolts on the rear mount and when I drilled and tried to EZ out ... of course..... it snapped, So any advice, I am thinking at this point it might be easier to go with a rail kit but the local shop qouted 900.00 for parts:eek: I would love to see the water again this season but dont have a grand right now, any advise???

[502 JET]

Is the easyout still stuck?
Post some pics of the piece your working with.

[SBC Jetboat]

you dont need $900 worth of crap for a rail mount setup. All you need is 2x2x1/4 aluminum angle for inside the stringers to set the engine on, and some 3/8 x 4 alum flat bar to put on the outside of the stringers (prevent the bolts from pulling thru). Just have to take some time to align the engine properly (height relative to the jet drive shaft, side to side, and the angle of the engine relative to the jetdrive) you can get an angle finder at Lowes for $10 or so. Theres enough info on this site to help you get it set up right. IF you need the front and rear mounts for the engine they can be made from 3/8 or 1/2 inch aluminum plate or bought from Eddie Marine. Theres probably someone on here with a set they'd sell ya. As long as you are decent at fabrication, its not really that hard.

[suckin&pumpin]

you dont need $900 worth of crap for a rail mount setup. All you need is 2x2x1/4 aluminum angle for inside the stringers to set the engine on, and some 3/8 x 4 alum flat bar to put on the outside of the stringers (prevent the bolts from pulling thru). Just have to take some time to align the engine properly (height relative to the jet drive shaft, side to side, and the angle of the engine relative to the jetdrive) you can get an angle finder at Lowes for $10 or so. Theres enough info on this site to help you get it set up right. IF you need the front and rear mounts for the engine they can be made from 3/8 or 1/2 inch aluminum plate or bought from Eddie Marine. Theres probably someone on here with a set they'd sell ya. As long as you are decent at fabrication, its not really that hard.
I was kind of thinking along those lines, anyone have any pics, for me to getideas from?

[suckin&pumpin]

Is the easyout still stuck?
Post some pics of the piece your working with.
ez out still stuck, camera is broke :( its a 460& jaccuzi

[SBC Jetboat]

I can probably get some pics tomorrow and post em tomorrow evening late.

[suckin&pumpin]

I can probably get some pics tomorrow and post em tomorrow evening late.
That would be awesome, thanx

[502 JET]

ez out still stuck, camera is broke :( its a 460& jaccuzi
Try and drill around the broken easy out to free it up or use a dremel tool and grind it away. Then drill out the remaining part of the old bolt and re-thread the hole or heli coil it.

[suckin&pumpin]

Try and drill around the broken easy out to free it up or use a dremel tool and grind it away. Then drill out the remaining part of the old bolt and re-thread the hole or heli coil it.
sounds possible ...worth a try, dont you just love extractions...LOL

[SBC Jetboat]

Not the fanciest job but Im kinda wantin to get it in the water ASAP. Only rebuilt the whole darned boat in 5 months. Heres a few pics of a basic rail mount setup, but its not nearly as nice as some out there. Ive got lots of winterrrrrrtime work to do cleaning things up. :D

[shaun]

here's the pics of my railkit install... http://reitanfamily.com/gallery/v/shaun-bryan-reitan/boat01/RailKitInstall/
$900 for the kit/install sounds like it could be about right, the kit i used now runs close to $500 from hi-techperformance and after modifying it to fit and getting the angle right it took some time..

[cave]

Them some good ideas. I'm leaning towards making a rail kit. With the waters getting rougher my full stringers are getting a betting. What grade aluminum do you guys recommend?

[BrendellaJet]

6061. You need 3/8 plate for the front & rear mounts. Rails should be 2X2X.25 minimum. Dont forget the backing plates for the rails too.
If you have a spare block laying around that will help locate the holes for the mounts, or you could use your existing mounts and transfer them. When i made my plates I had access to one of those plastic engine blocks, made life very easy. I did the mounts in masonite first and got them all squared up, and then transfered everything over to the plate.
For aesthetic purposes, mount the rails first, and make them run parallel to the tops of the stringers. Drill the holes and leave them there. Then play with the fitting of the plates.
Measure twice, cut once.
These plates were made with a table saw, file & drill press(drill motor will suffice)
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/Rigging_003.jpg
Note, you may need to notch the rail for your starter.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/Rigging_006.jpg

[Xlration Marine]

Them some good ideas. I'm leaning towards making a rail kit. With the waters getting rougher my full stringers are getting a betting. What grade aluminum do you guys recommend?
Davis salvage has the good stuff, thats were Phil used to get it. It's on washington, through all of the light rail constuction. Better to hit it coming east from the 51, it's on the south side about 40th street or so. Pain in the butt to park, saturday AM is the best time to go.

[suckin&pumpin]

damn great pics guys, sounds like my weekend project

[SmokinLowriderSS]

so I sheared both bolts on the rear mount and when I drilled and tried to EZ out ... of course..... it snapped, So any advice, I am thinking at this point it might be easier to go with a rail kit but the local shop qouted 900.00 for parts:eek: I would love to see the water again this season but dont have a grand right now, any advise???
If you broke an e-z-out, you are screwed. They are as hard as any drill bit or file, if not harder. Sounds like you tried to use too small of one.
Your 2 chances are this:
1 Get the part out, and heat the EZ-out with a torch (MAPP minimum, nut a plain propane torch, not hot enough). An oxy/gas welding setup would be more controllable.
Heat the EZ-out cherry red hot, 2 or 3 times, letting it cool fully between times. This SHOULD aneal it, and allow it to be drilled by an ordinary high-speed bit. Then, drill it SLOW with LOTS of oil.
2 take it to a machine shop and they can drill it out on a mill with carbide cutters.