Wiring from Scratch

[GAWnCA]

Well, thanks to several of you I got a grip on the plumbing mess I had and now it's time to make the wiring mess as clean as I can. I really don't want to buy a generic wiring harness that has a lot of connections that I'll never use so I guess I've got to build my own from scratch.
I want to start from the battery and move on from there. Shouldn't the engine area have its own harness and then a harness taken up to the front of the boat for the low amp connections?
Any and all help sure would be appreciated.

[BrendellaJet]

I did the same thing. It was fun and I learned a lot in the process. I too did not want to buy the generic harness. Easier to make it for your boat, will turn out nicer IMO.
What I did was first decide where I wanted my terminal block to be mounted. I wanted the wiring to be stealth so i mounted it in a place where it would be easy to hide the wires yet allow access to the terminal block. I mounted in the front of the engine on my direct drive alternator mount, and ran the wires through a gromet and under my rail then to the back of the motor, up through another grommett in the rail and to all the senders/starter/solenoid.
Having the terminal block on the motor allows easy disconnectionfrom the motor for removal. So yes in essence there is a separate harness for the motor.
Instead of starting at the battery, I started at the dash. I made up a power wire "in series" for the gauges. 12V power on a single linked wire instead of 1 wire for each gauge. Turned out very clean this way. Did the same with the ground wire. Ran the wires to the terminal block and then worked on wiring the senders.
Rambling...anyhow, take your time and do it right. Use a nice crimper and heat shrink every connection and it will look really nice. Think about how you want it to look and where you want the wires run before doing it.

[GAWnCA]

I did the same thing. It was fun and I learned a lot in the process. I too did not want to buy the generic harness. Easier to make it for your boat, will turn out nicer IMO.
What I did was first decide where I wanted my terminal block to be mounted. I wanted the wiring to be stealth so i mounted it in a place where it would be easy to hide the wires yet allow access to the terminal block. I mounted in the front of the engine on my direct drive alternator mount, and ran the wires through a gromet and under my rail then to the back of the motor, up through another grommett in the rail and to all the senders/starter/solenoid.
Having the terminal block on the motor allows easy disconnectionfrom the motor for removal. So yes in essence there is a separate harness for the motor.
Instead of starting at the battery, I started at the dash. I made up a power wire "in series" for the gauges. 12V power on a single linked wire instead of 1 wire for each gauge. Turned out very clean this way. Did the same with the ground wire. Ran the wires to the terminal block and then worked on wiring the senders.
Rambling...anyhow, take your time and do it right. Use a nice crimper and heat shrink every connection and it will look really nice. Think about how you want it to look and where you want the wires run before doing it.
Thanks for the advice. By chance did you take any photos or have any of at least your motor connections? Part of the dash connections look to be original, all bundled together nicely and then you got to the tach, amp meter, key switch, and it all goes to hell.

[Cas]

CP Performance has a complete wire loom with all the industry standard colors.
http://www.cpperformance.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=109
http://www.cpperformance.com/images/620-08801.jpg
you can customize to your needs

[THE BOSTON SIDEWINDER]

go the www.blueseas.com and they have the correct wiring colors

[jetboatperformance]

GAW the wireing is simple and very basic and for those who wish to "do it your self" everything you need including a terminal block can be puchased at Good hardware store (Tru value etc) the original harness typically had red, yellow, blue,brown ,green ,gray and purple wires with 1 (or 2) large red for volt or amp feed You'll need about 25' (on average) of each wire some black tape and a good selection of terminals If you need a "legend/diagram" or tech help feel free to call Tom

[GAWnCA]

CP Performance has a complete wire loom with all the industry standard colors.
http://www.cpperformance.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=109
http://www.cpperformance.com/images/620-08801.jpg
you can customize to your needs
As I was saying, there are too many generic connections that I will never use and therefore don't want to use this. Thanks for the link. I have thought about it and looked at that harness, it's made by or has the name of Hardin Marine on it.

[BrendellaJet]

First off, lose the ammeter. Fire hazard. Go with a volt meter.
I dont have any pix, but im getting started on rewiring my new to me boat so I've got answers to most of your questions. Feel free to PM or post.

[GAWnCA]

go the www.blueseas.com and they have the correct wiring colors
I guess they are in the process of rebuilding their web site. I get the GoDaddy Starter page. Thanks for trying.

[BrendellaJet]

Some miscellaneous pointers for you:
I didn't run a starter solenoid but generally its a good idea.
Start
I ran power from the battery to the larger terminal on the starter. From that terminal I ran a 10 Ga wire into a 30 amp breaker and then to the "Batt" Terminal on the ignition key. From the "start" teminal on the ignition back to the starter with a 14 Ga wire to the male connector on the starter. thats the starting circuit.
Gauges
From the "on" terminal on the ignition I ran the "in series" power wire to all gauges. One wire from each of the gauges runs to the sending unit. Then a ground frm the gauges(again this was "in series") grounded to the engine block.
Ground from the battery to the engine block also.
Charging
I used a 3 wire delco alternator converted to a one wire. I think it was the #2 terminal wires up to the Charging terminal, and then a 10 ga wire from the charging terminal to the starter/battery. make sure the alternator is grounded well. I had trouble with this and hence I was getting a goofy reading on my volt meter.
Protect the componenets with proper fuses.(mfg will recommend what size)

[jetboatperformance]

Greg i'll be after 10 call and i'll breakdown the colors for you and where the go Tom

[BrendellaJet]

I ignored the colors. I made a chart and it stays on the boat. Separate color for each function.

[Cas]

here ya go-
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/1394ignitionandgage.jpg

[GAWnCA]

here ya go-
Thanks Cas, I have to add in a Fuel level as well but this is a nice start.

[GunninGopher]

I took the extra step of soldering each terminal. I would say that 95% of the crimps that you put on carefully will last a lifetime, but I felt like I had the time to go the extra mile for some peace of mind, so I did.

[GAWnCA]

I took the extra step of soldering each terminal. I would say that 95% of the crimps that you put on carefully will last a lifetime, but I felt like I had the time to go the extra mile for some peace of mind, so I did.
That's a good suggestion. I guess after everything is laid out and connected and shrink-wrapped, you could disassemble everything and solder and heat shrink each connector.

[Danhercules]

When I did my 18', I got a wire harness from L&L marine. Worked out bitchen. I recomend it.

[roostwear]

I took a bunch of pics when I made the Stevens harness... just have to find them and upload them. I'll look tonight and post what I find

[Rexone]

They also make some high end terminals with shrink tubing with glue in them right on the terminal. We use them on some wiring assys for products we make. They save alot of assy time and the glue seals the crimp joint on both sides. They make a real nice finished product. You can get from Del City and many other sources.
Generic wire harnesses just come with std run of the mill crimps, generally don't fit re-wire jobs well, and have extra or not enough of the right size wires. I've never liked them much regardless of the source. Many of them are the ultimate cause of electrical problems years down the road particularly in salt applications.

[suckin&pumpin]

greg we are on the same page I am wiring next week, let me know how it turns out

[GAWnCA]

greg we are on the same page I am wiring next week, let me know how it turns out
Well, first thing I need to do is figure out what is going to what from the engine area to up under the dash. The I've got to figure out how to clean up the engine compartment wiring. I've got wires with wire nuts on them that don't connect to anything and wires that just hang out in mid air. Not to mention the spices that could become shorted out should water get over 3 inches deep.
I just added to the mess by taking the bilge pump (not connected to anything) and added a float switch to that. You can't always keep an eye on the water level that gets into that area of the boat. This way I shouldn't have to worry about drowning the engine electrical.
SO!!! Let's all take lots of pictures!! :D

[jrork]

Yup, I did mine from scratch and used the schematic Cas posted for a guide. Eventually modified the schematic to allow for my MSD box and other assorted goodies. I'll look and see if I can find it electronically.
One other thing I did was to run external grounds from all electrical components on the engine (i.e. short ground from the alternator to the block, short ground from the starter to the block, ect...) that way I hope to always have the best possible ground.
Good luck

[GAWnCA]

Yup, I did mine from scratch and used the schematic Cas posted for a guide. Eventually modified the schematic to allow for my MSD box and other assorted goodies. I'll look and see if I can find it electronically.
One other thing I did was to run external grounds from all electrical components on the engine (i.e. short ground from the alternator to the block, short ground from the starter to the block, ect...) that way I hope to always have the best possible ground.
Good luck
Lots of good advice here. The hard part is going to be me working under the dash. I've got 4 compressed disks in my lower back and 3 in my neck.
I printed Cas' schematic so I can follow it. I was going to call Tom at Jet Boat Performance today but time is getting away from me. Maybe I can do that in the morning.

[SHAWNINATOR]

Im a dumb harley mechanic and was thinking about doing the same to my boat this winter. I have a couple questions...Why is the ammeter a fire hazard? And I see alot of boats using butt connectors. Wouldnt it be alot stronger to solder every connection? Just a couple rookie questions for the jet boat gurus.

[GAWnCA]

Im a dumb harley mechanic and was thinking about doing the same to my boat this winter. I have a couple questions...Why is the ammeter a fire hazard? And I see alot of boats using butt connectors. Wouldnt it be alot stronger to solder every connection? Just a couple rookie questions for the jet boat gurus.
Seems to me that what you suggest would be a better idea, then to top that off, put some heat shrink tubing at those joints and just for kicks inject some silicon and shrink away. Good joint and should be water tight.

[Konabud]

I highly recommend the heat shrink connectors also, I started using them in salt water applications and just kept using them on the Kona when I cleaned up the wiring. The sealant forms a fantastic mechanical bond, I dont think you could pull them off if you wanted to. You can get them on Ebay pretty reasonable, well worth the extra. Good luck, It'll be fun.:)

[GAWnCA]

I highly recommend the heat shrink connectors also, I started using them in salt water applications and just kept using them on the Kona when I cleaned up the wiring. The sealant forms a fantastic mechanical bond, I dont think you could pull them off if you wanted to. You can get them on Ebay pretty reasonable, well worth the extra. Good luck, It'll be fun.:)
Wouldn't good quality heat shrink tubing work just as well? The tubing I have when heated glues itself to the wire shielding and you have to strip back behind the tubing.

[jetboatperformance]

Greg check your PM's Tom

[GAWnCA]

Greg check your PM's Tom
Just did and answered. :)

[suckin&pumpin]

here are all the before pics i could find there are 2 pages
http://www.msnusers.com/martinoboat/wiring.msnw?Page=1

[BrendellaJet]

Im a dumb harley mechanic and was thinking about doing the same to my boat this winter. I have a couple questions...Why is the ammeter a fire hazard? And I see alot of boats using butt connectors. Wouldnt it be alot stronger to solder every connection? Just a couple rookie questions for the jet boat gurus.
The ammeter is a hazard because it has full system voltage running through it, not just to it, but through it. A volt meter has fused power running to it.

[GAWnCA]

here are all the before pics i could find there are 2 pages
http://www.msnusers.com/martinoboat/wiring.msnw?Page=1
Do you think it's a good idea to have the terminal block located right in the path of back-wash? I never have understood why people do it this way.
I does look like you have/had the same mess I'm looking at. I don't have a terminal block anywhere, though.
I think I'll check out Molex and see what kind of snap/locking connectors I can get so that I can disconnect wire runs as I might need to.

[PC Rat]

Do you think it's a good idea to have the terminal block located right in the path of back-wash?
I've wondered that myself. I mounted mine up high on the transom.
I used the non-insulated terminals and bulk heat shrink tubing with the glue in it. I figure that if I crimp it first, I don't risk breaking through the insulation. The crimp for a non-insulated terminal seems a little tougher than insulated also. I've heard some people say that soldering the connection makes it more brittle - I don't know.
Here's another color chart:
Blk -Grounds-General
Blk/Brn -Pump Grounds
Blk/Red -Voltmeter Grounds
Blk/Org -Isolated Accessory Grounds
Blk/Yel -ignition stop
Blk/Grn -Water Level Sender Ground
Blk/Blu -Lighting Grounds
Blk/Gry -Nav Light Grounds
Blk/Wht -Battery Parallel Solenoid
Brown -Pumps-General, Bilge or Sump (Manually Switched)(Also alternator starter to Ign.)
Brn/Red -Pumps, Bilge or Sump
Brn/Org -Power feed to Auto Bilge Switches-Pumps, Fuel/Oil Tranfer or Priming
Brn/Yel -Baitwell or Aerator
Brn/Grn -Fresh Water Pump/Water Maker
Brn/Blu -Head Pump
Brn/Vio -Washdown Pump
Brn/Wht -trim pos sender
Red - Battery Feeds Unprotected
Red/Vio -Misc. Accy. Main Feed Protected (fused) from batt to trim panel.
Pink -Fuel Sender
Org/Blk -Audio System Feed
Org/Brn -Electric Head-Sanitation System
Org/Red -Wiper Port
Orange -Accessories common feed- Dist Panel to Acc switch-Anode Electrode-Mercathode
Org/Yel -Diesel Pre-heat
Org/Grn -Wiper Stbd
Org/Blu -Communications Equipment
Org/Vio -Navigation Equipment
Org/Wht -Wiper Center
Yel/Blk -Choke - Neutral saftey trans mounted
Yel/Red -Start Solenoid(starting circut), Neutral Safety
Yel/Org -Powered Ventilation, Fans
Yellow -Bilge Blowers -(also alternator DC output)
Yel/Wht -Rudder Angle Sender
Grn/Red -Stop Solenoid/Kill Switch
Grn/Yel -AC Grounding
Green -Bonding
Grn/Wht -Engine Trim in and or tilt down
Grn/Org -Engine Independent Trim down
Blu/Blk -Cabin Lights
Blu/Brn -Oil Temp Send
Blu/Red -Cabin or Cockpit Lights Port
Blu/Org -Engine Independent Tilt Up
Blu/Yel -Lighting Circuits to Remote Send
Blu/Grn -Cabin or Cockpit Lights Stbd
Blu -Instrument & General Lighting
Blu/Vio -Courtesy, Boarding Lighting
Blu/Wht -Engine Trim Outand/or Tilt Up
Light Blue -Oil Pressure
Vio/Red -Eng. or Generator B+ from Breaker
Vio/Yel -I/O Trim Up (ballast bypass)
Vio/Grn -I/O Trim Down
Vio -12v Ignition-Generator or Engine
Vio/Wht -Trim "Trailer" switch
Gry/Blk -Mast Light
Gry/Red -Spotlight Remote
Gry/Org -Docking Lights
Gry/Grn -Strobe or Beacon
Gry/Blu -Spreader/Flood Lights
Gry/Vio -Windlass/Winch
Gray -Navigation (running) Lights, Tach. Send
Gry/Wht -Anchor Light
Wht/Brn -Temp. Alarm or Indicator
Wht/Red -Fuel Alarm or Indicator -((Ignition module to Dist.)Mercury Thunderbolt Ignition)
Wht/Org -Fire Alarm or Indicator
Wht/Yel -Air Flow Alarm or Indicator
Wht/Grn -Water Press/Flow Alarm or Indicator - ((Ignition module to Dist.)Mercury Thunderbolt Ignition)
Wht/Blu -Oil Press Alarm or Indicator
Wht/Vio -Voltage Alarm or Indicator
White -General Alarm Usage, Yamaha Kill Switch
Tan - Water Temp sender
Tan/Blu -Warning system sense wire (Audio warning)
Pink -Fuel sender

[roostwear]

Apparently I spent more time under the dash than taking pics, but you can get a idea what's involved.
First layout your gauges the way you want them. This will determine how the circuits layout behind the dash. This is why I dislike the readymade harnesses... they often times determine your gauge layout.
http://www.vintagerodcomponents.com/boat/wire4.jpg
Next, take a little time to measure the terminal spacing and make a sketch. Better yet, take a piece of scrap plywood, cut your holes as they are in the dash and mount your gauges to it. Do as much as you can on the bench, not on your back. As you can see, I used a copy of the wiring diagram that Cas posted as a starting point.
http://www.vintagerodcomponents.com/boat/wire1.jpg
Make sure you leave plenty of wire to make the runs to the engine and other components. Doing as much as you can on the bench also makes it easier to solder the connectors.
Make sure you know which circuits are where and how you will route them.
http://www.vintagerodcomponents.com/boat/wire3.jpg
I mounted the fuse block under the dash to keep it dry and make the layout cleaner. I chose an ATC style fuse block 'cuz you can find them ANYWHERE.

[roostwear]

Oh, one more thing. Practice daisychaining connectors for feeds and grounds. It'll save you a TON of time, and will make a much cleaner layout. The downside is you must do a LOT more planning before starting for it to come out right.
http://www.vintagerodcomponents.com/boat/wire5.jpg

[GAWnCA]

Oh, one more thing. Practice daisychaining connectors for feeds and grounds. It'll save you a TON of time, and will make a much cleaner layout. The downside is you must do a LOT more planning before starting for it to come out right.
http://www.vintagerodcomponents.com/boat/wire5.jpg
This is where the mock-up dash panel would really come in handy. You could make up the entire harness, wrap it up and be ready to just bolt to the gauges when you re-install them in the dash. Where do you get your terminals and preglued shrink tubing?

[roostwear]

This is where the mock-up dash panel would really come in handy. You could make up the entire harness, wrap it up and be ready to just bolt to the gauges when you re-install them in the dash. Where do you get your terminals and preglued shrink tubing?
You could make up the dash and finish the harness after you've routed it in the hull, but you get the idea how much easier it is to do whatever you can on the bench.
The majority of the supplies were bought in bulk at a local electronic supply (Orvac). I don't bother using readymade harnesses or repairing a POS harness anymore..... it's easier to make a new one.

[GAWnCA]

You could make up the dash and finish the harness after you've routed it in the hull, but you get the idea how much easier it is to do whatever you can on the bench.
The majority of the supplies were bought in bulk at a local electronic supply (Orvac). I don't bother using readymade harnesses or repairing a POS harness anymore..... it's easier to make a new one.
I tried using their web site and it goes to no where!

[roostwear]

Their site sucks, but since I'm local, I just head over and stock up. You'll need to do some poking around and find a supplier in your area. It really helps having one local when you need a 16ga lug for a 3/8" stud. You don't need 100 of them, but when you need it, you need it.

[GAWnCA]

Their site sucks, but since I'm local, I just head over and stock up. You'll need to do some poking around and find a supplier in your area. It really helps having one local when you need a 16ga lug for a 3/8" stud. You don't need 100 of them, but when you need it, you need it.
I've got a good electronic supplies place here in town the problem is it's down town and I hate going down there, but for this project it may be the best thing to do and just buy a few extra of everything.

[Konabud]

Wouldn't good quality heat shrink tubing work just as well? The tubing I have when heated glues itself to the wire shielding and you have to strip back behind the tubing.
I don't know, never tried it, When I find something that works well I stick with it. In a saltwater boat if it can corrode, it will. Never had any problems with the heat shrink connectors as they seal both sides of the connection. You'll notice in the picture the small bead of sealant that squeezes out of the end of the connector.
Here's a link
http://cgi.ebay.com/165-HEAT-SHRINK-RING-CONNECTORS-TERMINALS-3M-USA_W0QQitemZ170140640657QQihZ007QQcategoryZ48716Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/3112The_stuff2.JPG

[GAWnCA]

I don't know, never tried it, When I find something that works well I stick with it. In a saltwater boat if it can corrode, it will. Never had any problems with the heat shrink connectors as they seal both sides of the connection. You'll notice in the picture the small bead of sealant that squeezes out of the end of the connector.
Here's a link
http://cgi.ebay.com/165-HEAT-SHRINK-RING-CONNECTORS-TERMINALS-3M-USA_W0QQitemZ170140640657QQihZ007QQcategoryZ48716Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/3112The_stuff2.JPG
Neat job. I'm trying to figure out where you mounted the terminal block and what is the black tubing is that you put all your wires through. MORE PICTURES - Please. :)

[BrendellaJet]

Neat job. I'm trying to figure out where you mounted the terminal block and what is the black tubing is that you put all your wires through. MORE PICTURES - Please. :)
Thats a reverse mount starter(mounts at the top of the bell housing in the opposite direction of normal). Terminal block is between the transom and engine.
That is a very clean set up. This thread has me itchin to tear into my boat this weekend and rip the wires out of it while I have the engine & pump out.

[BrendellaJet]

I've got a good electronic supplies place here in town the problem is it's down town and I hate going down there, but for this project it may be the best thing to do and just buy a few extra of everything.
Note: Buy everything in bulk. You will be glad you did. I cant tell you how many times I have had to stop what Im doing because I ran out of something.

[GAWnCA]

Note: Buy everything in bulk. You will be glad you did. I cant tell you how many times I have had to stop what Im doing because I ran out of something.
I plan to do that, just in case. I hate it when I run short and I'm doing a job. What guage wire do you recommend for most of the wiring?

[BrendellaJet]

I used 3 sizes of wire. 14, 12 & 10. For gauges to sending units I used 14. From the ignition to the gauges(12v switched power) I used 14. From the starter to the ignition I used 10. From ignition back to starter(start signal wire) I used 14. For lengthening my MSD power & ground wires I used 12(I think) From the alternator to the starter(charging wire) I used 10.

[Konabud]

Neat job. I'm trying to figure out where you mounted the terminal block and what is the black tubing is that you put all your wires through. MORE PICTURES - Please. :)
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/3112Motor_install2.JPG
The black tubing is just the corrugated stuff that you can buy at any auto parts store. You'll have to cut me a little slack on some of the wires that aren't tied up yet as I wasn't quite finished at this point. The wussy starter wire also got replaced with this (the other end of the installation)
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/3112powerstation2.JPG
I had a problem with the boat starting the first season (combination of bad connections and the started getting flooded with water) NO MORE! I figure now if I run out of gas I can crank it home on the batteries. I know the alternator install looks a little funny being up high like that but this engine is in a tight box with only a lid on the top and it's really nice to get to this way.

[GAWnCA]

The black tubing is just the corrugated stuff that you can buy at any auto parts store. You'll have to cut me a little slack on some of the wires that aren't tied up yet as I wasn't quite finished at this point. The wussy starter wire also got replaced with this (the other end of the installation)
I had a problem with the boat starting the first season (combination of bad connections and the started getting flooded with water) NO MORE! I figure now if I run out of gas I can crank it home on the batteries. I know the alternator install looks a little funny being up high like that but this engine is in a tight box with only a lid on the top and it's really nice to get to this way.
Damn nice work!! I'm gonna swipe your photos for reference. What is the black thing hanging on your terminal block bracket with the large red wire? And where did you find the spark plug wire looms?

[Cas]

Damn nice work!! I'm gonna swipe your photos for reference. What is the black thing hanging on your terminal block bracket with the large red wire? And where did you find the spark plug wire looms?
Greg,
I have a set of those plug wire brackets/loom sitting on my garage doing nothing. For the cost of shipping, you can have them....they're not very heavy so I'm thinking $10.00 or so would cover it.

[Konabud]

Damn nice work!! I'm gonna swipe your photos for reference. What is the black thing hanging on your terminal block bracket with the large red wire? And where did you find the spark plug wire looms?
The black thing is the starter relay, a friend gave me the looms so I don't know where they came from. (I'd be jumpin all over those looms from CAS)
By the way, HEY CAS HOWS IT GOIN?

[Cas]

The black thing is the starter relay, a friend gave me the looms so I don't know where they came from. (I'd be jumpin all over those looms from CAS)
By the way, HEY CAS HOWS IT GOIN?
Doing great! How about you? Missed you at Shasta this past year, maybe next?
Greg,
These are the ones I have-
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/sct/1848.jpg

[GAWnCA]

Greg,
I have a set of those plug wire brackets/loom sitting on my garage doing nothing. For the cost of shipping, you can have them....they're not very heavy so I'm thinking $10.00 or so would cover it.
Where abouts are you? PM me the information.

[GAWnCA]

Doing great! How about you? Missed you at Shasta this past year, maybe next?
Greg,
These are the ones I have-
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/sct/1848.jpg
I'm going for them They are great and I haven't seen them before. I'm also checking the link in your photo. I'm digging up all the information I can find before I start the job. I'll do the same when I get ready to re-paint/gel-coat the hull.

[GAWnCA]

While I have you seasoned Wizards on the line. Can anyone tell me what this ignition system is? I can't find any sort of mfg. or numbers anywhere. Is it any good for use in a boat? I do know the bracket that hold it up in place sure seems flimsey.
http://home.comcast.net/~gregaw/ignition_system.jpg

[GunninGopher]

Do you think it's a good idea to have the terminal block located right in the path of back-wash? I never have understood why people do it this way.
Make sure the terminal block is accessible while you are on the water. It is an excellent point to troubleshoot electrical problems.
I think the reason that manufacturers have installed it there in the past was because it is the cleanest place to run wires to in most of our boats, and it's easy to work on it there while standing outside the boat. Momentary water splashing shouldn't be a problem to a proper setup.

[Konabud]

Doing great! How about you? Missed you at Shasta this past year, maybe next?]
Hope to, we had a great time when we were down last year.:) Had the Hemi boat out last weekend with nine other boats, what a blast!

[GunninGopher]

Doing great! How about you? Missed you at Shasta this past year, maybe next?
Greg,
These are the ones I have-
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/sct/1848.jpg
Summit racing has similar onesHere (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=RNM%2D1101P&N=700+4294925143+4294756594+4294862572+115&autoview=sku). Just make sure to get wires that you can cut. These add some length to the stock length.

[GAWnCA]

Summit racing has similar onesHere (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=RNM%2D1101P&N=700+4294925143+4294756594+4294862572+115&autoview=sku). Just make sure to get wires that you can cut. These add some length to the stock length.
New custom wires will come next. I need a new cap and rotor as well. The points have been replace by an electronic device. I found a terminal block that has a cover so that might be the way to go and then mount it back where it's easy to get to.
So far no one can beat the price Cas quoted me. :D

[BrendellaJet]

I wouldnt be so concerned with the location of the terminal block. Every jet boat ever made came with them back there and look at all the boats still on the water. The fact that you are taking the effort to redo it and make it fit the boat will ensure it lasts another 30 friggin years:D

[suckin&pumpin]

Do you think it's a good idea to have the terminal block located right in the path of back-wash? I never have understood why people do it this way.
I does look like you have/had the same mess I'm looking at. I don't have a terminal block anywhere, though.
I think I'll check out Molex and see what kind of snap/locking connectors I can get so that I can disconnect wire runs as I might need to.
thats a factory mount but i have taken some big waves once or twice and never had a problem:sqeyes: :idea: :D

[Moose]

GAWnCA, Im pretty close to you (off of Gerber rd). If you need some help
with the wiring you could always bring your boat by ( I blew out my knee and I can't go far) and I could give you a hand.
Moose

[GAWnCA]

GAWnCA, Im pretty close to you (off of Gerber rd). If you need some help
with the wiring you could always bring your boat by ( I blew out my knee and I can't go far) and I could give you a hand.
Moose
I'm off French between Gerber and Florin. That is close.

[Moose]

Just around the corner;)

[Cas]

I blew out my knee and I can't go far
Moose
bad back and now a knee, can you even get into the boat?

[GAWnCA]

bad back and now a knee, can you even get into the boat?
Getting in isn't a problem, it's getting out!!! :sleeping:

[Moose]

It seems like I'm falling all to hell, but you don't get hurt while setting on the couch:D .

[Moose]

Getting in isn't a problem, it's getting out!!! :sleeping:
It's easy to fall out:jawdrop:

[Cas]

It seems like I'm falling all to hell, but you don't get hurt while setting on the couch:D .
and you're still a young pup :D

[Moose]

and you're still a young pup :D
I don't know about being a young pup?, but lets just say I've been around
the block a time or two;) .

[GAWnCA]

here are all the before pics i could find there are 2 pages
http://www.msnusers.com/martinoboat/wiring.msnw?Page=1
I think the same guy wired your boat. Looks like some of the same loose wires I have hanging out for something to happen... Only he got a little neater with your boat. :D

[Squirtcha?]

While I have you seasoned Wizards on the line. Can anyone tell me what this ignition system is? I can't find any sort of mfg. or numbers anywhere. Is it any good for use in a boat? I do know the bracket that hold it up in place sure seems flimsey.
http://home.comcast.net/~gregaw/ignition_system.jpg
No expert, but the distributor is a Mallory and appears to be a unilite (photo optics type). If it were a points type the condensor is normally mounted on the outside of the housing.
The coil looks like an Accel that's been painted over (normally yellow). Accel advertises this particular one as being used with a points type distributor. If your dizzy is a unilite it doesn't use points.
Not sure what difference it would make (if any).
Coil
http://www.malloryracing.com/e-images04-350//140001.jpg
Dizzy
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/maa-3756701_w.jpg

[Danhercules]

The coil looks like an Accel that's been painted over (normally yellow). Accel advertises this particular one as being used with a points type distributor. If your dizzy is a unilite it doesn't use points.
Coil
http://www.malloryracing.com/e-images04-350//140001.jpg
I had one of these on my boat when it sunk. It worked well after too!! :D

[GAWnCA]

No expert, but the distributor is a Mallory and appears to be a unilite (photo optics type). If it were a points type the condensor is normally mounted on the outside of the housing.
The coil looks like an Accel that's been painted over (normally yellow). Accel advertises this particular one as being used with a points type distributor. If your dizzy is a unilite it doesn't use points.
Not sure what difference it would make (if any).
Coil
Dizzy
Thanks Dan for chiming in. This is all a mystery configuration to me. I took this photo of the inside of the dist. It is a Mallory, label was on the back side.
http://home.comcast.net/~gregaw/dist_inside_01_sm.jpg
with rotor
http://home.comcast.net/~gregaw/dist_inside_02_sm.jpg
Can't find a single marking on the coil.
How's the knee today?
Greg

[GAWnCA]

I had one of these on my boat when it sunk. It worked well after too!! :D
I guess if it could have been painted orange at one time, I can paint it BLUE when I'm ready.

[jetboatperformance]

Greg your distributor is a Mallory YL with what I'm pretty sure is a "Petronics" conversion trigger Tom the guys are correct the coil is/was an Accel super coil and yes the epoxy and original "mounting will crack/break under vibration I remade my bracket a little beefier Tom
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r319/jetboatperformance/69%20Schiada/DSC06706.jpg

[GAWnCA]

Greg your distributor is a Mallory YL with what I'm pretty sure is a "Petronics" conversion trigger Tom the guys are correct the coil is/was an Accel super coil and yes the epoxy and original "mounting will crack/break under vibration I remade my bracket a little beefier Tom
I've been looking for a reason to fire up my furnace and cast some aluminum. This looks like a fantastic bracket to pour, and then anodize dark blue. Also, another good excuse to get my CNC mill built and operational.

[suckin&pumpin]

check your pm's

[GAWnCA]

check your pm's
I just did and I didn't see anything new. :confused:

[GAWnCA]

color chart:
Ok, using the above color chart, I have gone through the list and removed the wires I shouldn't need. Tell me if I am right or if I can do away with more. I will be adding running/navigation lights.
color chart:
Blk -Grounds-General
Blk/Brn -Pump Grounds
Blk/Red -Voltmeter Grounds
Blk/Org -Isolated Accessory Grounds
Blk/Yel -ignition stop
Blk/Gry -Nav Light Grounds
Brn/Red -Pumps, Bilge or Sump
Brn/Org -Power feed to Auto Bilge Switches-Pumps, Fuel/Oil Tranfer or Priming
Red -Battery Feeds Unprotected
Pink -Fuel Sender
Org/Blk -Audio System Feed
Orange -Accessories common feed- Dist Panel to Acc switch-Anode Electrode-Mercathode
Yel/Red -Start Solenoid(starting circut), Neutral Safety
Blu -Instrument & General Lighting
Lt Blue -Oil Pressure
Violet -12v Ignition-Generator or Engine
Gray -Navigation (running) Lights, Tach. Send
Gry/Wht -Anchor Light
Tan -Water Temp sender
If you see some mistakes let me know. I've got to get started one of these days soon. I've got to get away from this black taped crap as well, it's oil soaked and so darn goopy it's a mess.

[suckin&pumpin]

I just did and I didn't see anything new. :confused:
sorry not you I meant jetboatperformance:D

[GAWnCA]

sorry not you I meant jetboatperformance:D
I guess I was speed reading/scanning and thought it was to me. :D

[GAWnCA]

I just ran across something really strange in this boat's wiring. For some reason a separate ground wire was ran from the fuel gauge to the engine block. Is there a reason that this should be? It looks to me that a common ground should be on a single line to serve all dash circuits.

[BrendellaJet]

Either way should work.

[GAWnCA]

Either way should work.
This single run wire along side the bundle sure looks like hell. I wasn't going to do it but I guess I'll pull the gauges out of the dash, order new ones and run new wires. Here's the mess as it stands:
http://home.comcast.net/~gregaw/guages_001_sm.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~gregaw/guages_002_sm.jpg
and
http://home.comcast.net/~gregaw/guages_003_sm.jpg
Hey Tom, have you got 'em in stock? :D

[roostwear]

The only reason to have a ground wire from the gauge to the block is for the lighting circuit. It will have one from the SENDER to the block. You have 12V+ into the gauge and the "ground" to the sender.

[GAWnCA]

Either way should work.
Brendella, You would think so but when I used a common ground behind the dash the fuel guage would peg at full. If I connected to the block, it was fine. Go figure that one out. At one point when the fuel guage was connected behind the dash all the gauges went nuts. :confused: 7000 rpm and the engine wasn't running. :D

[GAWnCA]

The only reason to have a ground wire from the gauge to the block is for the lighting circuit. It will have one from the SENDER to the block. You have 12V+ into the gauge and the "ground" to the sender.
Well, looking at the mess, I think I'll be better off doing a complete re-wire so I know what's going to what. I know things are funny when a blob of tape reveals several spices and wire nuts that go to nothing wires.

[BrendellaJet]

Brendella, You would think so but when I used a common ground behind the dash the fuel guage would peg at full. If I connected to the block, it was fine. Go figure that one out. At one point when the fuel guage was connected behind the dash all the gauges went nuts. :confused: 7000 rpm and the engine wasn't running. :D
Well, now you know why the long run was used:D I wonder if there was a problem with the additional gauge connected to the common ground. I dont know enough about the subject to say, but I bet there becomes a point when the quality of the ground cannot support the needs of the circuit it is grounding, hence the separate run. Would be interesting to see if the common run when you re-wire will work.

[BrendellaJet]

The only reason to have a ground wire from the gauge to the block is for the lighting circuit. It will have one from the SENDER to the block. You have 12V+ into the gauge and the "ground" to the sender.
:confused:

[GAWnCA]

Well, now you know why the long run was used:D I wonder if there was a problem with the additional gauge connected to the common ground. I dont know enough about the subject to say, but I bet there becomes a point when the quality of the ground cannot support the needs of the circuit it is grounding, hence the separate run. Would be interesting to see if the common run when you re-wire will work.
I think I'll run a #10 wire for ground as well as a #10 for power. I wonder if what's really behind this problem though. That wire should be heavy enough to support any and all power and grounding issues.
I noticed, too, that the lighting wires were very fine wires and some were broken off. There were also a lot of wires all terminated to the back of one guage and that seemed to be the ground but wouldn't ground the fuel guage. I ran a temporary ground back to the engine for the fuel guage and for the time being it'll work. I wonder what other surprises I'm going to run into. :confused:

[GAWnCA]

The only reason to have a ground wire from the gauge to the block is for the lighting circuit. It will have one from the SENDER to the block. You have 12V+ into the gauge and the "ground" to the sender.
Hey Roostwear, I think I am in for some surprises when I start pulling out the old wire and doing it properly. Not to mention when I pull the NEW carpet out and see what's hiding under there. Oh well, one of these days everything will be corrected and the boat completed.

[GAWnCA]

I don't know, never tried it, When I find something that works well I stick with it. In a saltwater boat if it can corrode, it will. Never had any problems with the heat shrink connectors as they seal both sides of the connection. You'll notice in the picture the small bead of sealant that squeezes out of the end of the connector.
Hi Konabud,
What in the amps on your circuit breaker? I like your neat wiring job.
Greg

[BrendellaJet]

Hi Konabud,
What in the amps on your circuit breaker? I like your neat wiring job.
Greg
you need a 30 amp breaker.

[Konabud]

you need a 30 amp breaker.
What he said....:)

[GAWnCA]

you need a 30 amp breaker.
Thanks to both of you. I need to find one now.

[BrendellaJet]

Try rex. I think a 30 amp fuse would work, you just have to replace it when it pops...
Also, do yourself a favor and tear the wiring out of your boat. Start over. Its the easiest way and it will turn out super clean when done. Take your interior out also, that way you can lay down on your back and get under the dash. Your neck and back sound like they would appreciate that.:)

[GAWnCA]

Try rex. I think a 30 amp fuse would work, you just have to replace it when it pops...
Also, do yourself a favor and tear the wiring out of your boat. Start over. Its the easiest way and it will turn out super clean when done. Take your interior out also, that way you can lay down on your back and get under the dash. Your neck and back sound like they would appreciate that.:)
You got that right about my back and neck. I kind of liked that idea (did you post that) where you draw up your dash on a seperate sheet of ply wood, heavy cardboard should work as well. and do all the wiring there on the table (if your wife isn't looking) and then install the gauges back in that order and then run the wires. I'm having one heck of a time finding the colors so I may do as someone suggested, run white wire and color code them with heat shrink tubing.
My back and neck are going to love me crawling up in the bow to repair some glass up there. Oh well, when the wind is in my hair and some spray hit my face, I won't remember any of that.
I don't think I want to use a fuse. So I'll look for the breaker.
Thanks,
Greg :coffeycup