Eliminator sprint?

[eliminatedsprinter]

Got a new name, but my request still stands. Any info on OB powered eliminator sprints would be very welcome. I posted a request on eliminator's bulletin board and got a message the next day from Bret Leach to call eliminator. When I called they gave me a little history of when they made them etc... However, they could not remember their length, weight, etc...Whats going on? Are these boats that rare or what??

[DUCKY]

I have never heard of an Eliminator sprint. But there is a boat called a Daytona Sprint (easily confused) They were a very solid boat, 18ft long and built with two bottoms, both splashes of Biesemeyers. There was a Semi-V, most bulit as Jet-drives, but there were some outboards, and the flat bottom version, mostly v-drives for circle racing. Hope that helps.

[Oldsquirt]

Ducky, Eliminator did indeed build a model called a Sprint. I'm betting most were jets but a few years ago I remember seeing one listed in the BoatTrader that was an outboard and had never been rigged. Here's a pic of a jet version from the classifieds. Check my profile for another. The Sprints I'm familiar with are listed as 19 footers although the ad for the one below says 20 feet. http://www.***boat.net/classifieds/ads/images/255_1.jpg

[HavasuDreamin']

I always thought they were good looking boats. The one above is a fine example of that........aside from the bow light which will knock 5mph off the top end for sure. wink :D

[Hermosa]

Mine was a 1982 Eliminator Sprint 20' jet. Extremely light layup, it was a quck boat, I really liked it, I never had it completely dialed in before i sold it and went to a 21' Daytona...and never looked back.

[eliminatedsprinter]

Thanks, that photo looks similer to mine, however, mine has a a little less red and black, more yellow and orange, and a white base color, no bow light, and is, of course, an OB. The folks at Eliminator told me they were approx 19 1/2 ft. The previous owner told me mine was rigged by Stoker and the guys at Eliminator confirmed that was probably true. It is very light, as I can just pick up the tongue of the trailer and move it around. The previous owner says the whole rig weighs < 2,000 lbs inc trailer. Any more info is still welcome. Thanks again...

[HavasuDreamin']

Post a picture of your rig. I would like to see it. :)

[jet4fun]

DUCKY:
I have never heard of an Eliminator sprint. But there is a boat called a Daytona Sprint (easily confused) They were a very solid boat, 18ft long and built with two bottoms, both splashes of Biesemeyers. There was a Semi-V, most bulit as Jet-drives, but there were some outboards, and the flat bottom version, mostly v-drives for circle racing. Hope that helps. yes, eliminator did build a model called the sprint, he is not confused, i have seen several eliminator sprints for sale in the past

[eliminatedsprinter]

Right now I'm kind of low tech here (no scanner no digital camera) when I can I'll post a photo. Thanks for the info. I think I'm going to want to keep this boat and I would like to learn as much as I can about it. I can tell that dispite it's lightness it's very sturdy. It's a pad bottom simi-v with full length stringers that get very large where they are glassed and through-bolted to a thick transom. It has no hint of any stress cracks in the hull. Thanks again...

[eliminatedsprinter]

I finaly got this boat up to the lake (castaic yuk) a couple of days ago. This hull is great. It was windy and choppy when we first got there and it handled the slop far better than any low profile simi-vee it's size has the right to. I was very impressed with this hull's handeling particularly in the ruff stuff. It's handling was stab and steer and it was super easy to drive. I found zero porposing, hull slapp, chinewalk etc at any speed or trim. Because I was at Castiac I couldn't get a good picture of it's top end (speed restrictions and lots of patrol boats). But it's accelleration was great it jumped right up on plane and it's mid-range was great. I got a polite but firm warning from one of the patrol boats because I was frequently accellerating to "well over 50 mph" in my short sprints. I give this hull an A+, but the jury is still out on the xp 150 because I couldn't properly test the top end and it was running a bit rough.

[HavasuDreamin']

My guess is that you will get about 60 mph out of it depending on set back, jack plate (or not), nose cone, and propeller. If you want some accurate information on your particular boat, go to the Eliminator Boats web-site. They have a forum where you can ask the mfg. about the history of your boat. Good Luck

[eliminatedsprinter]

That's about my guess. The boats previous ownner said he got a little over 60 with it on a good day. The boat was rigged by Stoker for Eliminator and it seems they knew what they were doing. The motor has had some minor exhaust work (stock manifold relieved and polished) but is otherwise stock. It is setback about 6 1/2 inches on a solid mount. The good news is that it get this performance from a stock aluminum prop. I'm hoping I can get a few more mph from a proper stainless prop without losing my good acceleration. I just don't ever want to be smoked by any PWCs. After that, I'll be fine with it's performance. I really am not looking for a drag boat or a hard core lake rod. A hydrolic jack plate may also someday be a consideration as well. Thanks.

[HavasuDreamin']

My guess is you will see a minimum gain of 3 mph, perhaps as much as 5 mph when switching to a stainless prop. Your boat will need bow lift, so I recommend a round ear, over the hub, 3 blade chopper. I think Mazco makes a hell of a prop and not bad on the wallet either. In fact, you can find them used all the time. Mazco also advertises in the back of ***boat magazine if you decide to go new. If you get the right pitch, holeshot will not suffer at all.
When and if you ever decide to put a jack plate on your rig, you will want to install a nosecone/lwp combo. From personal experience with several brands, I can tell you that Bob's machine shop out of Florida does the best work. Their big foot nose cone provides the best water pressure which is critical. Which brings me to another point. If you install a jack plate, make sure you have a good water pressure guage. Never run your water psi below 12 lbs.
Good Luck and have fun with your rig. Post pictures, or email them to me, and I will post them.
:cool:
[ April 11, 2003, 07:26 AM: Message edited by: HavasuDreamin' ]

[eliminatedsprinter]

Thanks again,
What diameter and pitch do you think would be best for me to start with?

[HavasuDreamin']

eliminatedsprinter:
Thanks again,
What diameter and pitch do you think would be best for me to start with? What are you currently running? My guess would be a 14.5" x 22", but that is only a GUESS. I don't think your pitch will differ significantly from what you currently have assuming you have a round ear, three blade aluminum prop in good condition.

[eliminatedsprinter]

It's currently running a 14 1/2 x 21 round ear three blade with some small dings and rough spots on the edges.
[ April 25, 2003, 05:18 PM: Message edited by: eliminatedsprinter ]

[eliminatedsprinter]

So, do you think I should move up to a 14 1/2 x 22 or 23 in a stainless? I'm turning the current one around 5400 rpm according to my tach. However, the motors running kind of rough (I think the previous owner left some bad gas in it) and I was at Castiac so, I didn't have the chance to really wind it out and experiment with the trim enough to get a full top end picture. The only clue to my actuall speed came in the warning I got from the Lifegaurds who said in my short sprints they got me at "well over 50". My speedo said 53mph when my tach read 5100rpm and it went out before I made the short runs at 5400rpm.

[HavasuDreamin']

eliminatedsprinter:
So, do you think I should move up to a 14 1/2 x 22 or 23 in a stainless? I'm turning the current one around 5400 rpm according to my tach. However, the motors running kind of rough (I think the previous owner left some bad gas in it) and I was at Castiac so, I didn't have the chance to really wind it out and experiment with the trim enough to get a full top end picture. Well I can't accurately answer your question because there are too many variables here:
1. Your motor is running rough. You need to get that straightened out before making a prop selection.
2. You haven't been able to get full RPM yet because of (a) cops (b) rough running motor.
3. You have a banged up prop, so who knows how that is affecting your rpm's.
My suggestion would be to get the motor running properly. If you have bad gas in it, DON'T RUN IT THROUGH THE MOTOR. You can damage pistons. Siphon it out and put fresh 92 octane (or the best available in it). If this is a used boat that you recently purchased, I would also change the spark plugs out, and put a new fuel/water seperator on it. I would also change the gear lube. All of these are extremely easy to do, just ask if you don't know how. Also, make sure you are running a good TCW-3 oil. I recommend Mercury.
After that, go test it. If it is running "well", see what max rpm you can get with the current prop. You might want to go to Elsinore for this so that you won't get hassled by the cops. When you are done, hopefully you are turning that prop in the upper 5,000 RPM range. I would say overall, you want to run your motor in the 5,500 to 5,800 rpm range. This will give you good hole shot while maintaing a good rpm band.
HD :cool:

[eliminatedsprinter]

Wow Thanks!
Before I took it out I had Champion Marine go over it and change the plugs, re-seal the lower unit, change the water pump impeller, etc to the tune of about $1200. The rough running started after about 15 min of zipping around. It would mostly occure at low RPMs esp after any time at idle. We suspected a small ammount of bad gas, because the boats previous owner's idea of long term storage was to try to run it out of gas and store it "empty". The first thing I did before I took it in for servicing and taking it out was fill it with fresh 92 octain. When I filled it, it only took about 23 gals and I was told it held 25 (2 12 1/2 gal tanks).
After the first day at Castiac I talked to Champion Marine then took it back out with more fresh 92 and a bottle of OMC's fuel conditioner in the gas and a gallon of new Evinrude 2 stroke oil in the oil tank. It ran better. But still did it a little at the beginning and a little at the end of the day. As of right now it has more new gas and OMC fuel conditioner. Should I still drian the tank or just take it in. My mechanic has indicated that since some conditioner and fresh gas seemed to help it may just be some gunk or a very small amount of water etc...He seems to think more good gas and conditioner etc.. will ultimatly make it go away. He didn't seem at all worried that I might harm my engine, as we knew lack of octain was never the problem. What do you think?? THANKS AGAIN!!

[HavasuDreamin']

eliminatedsprinter:
Before I took it out I had Champion Marine go over it and change the plugs, re-seal the lower unit, change the water pump impeller, etc to the tune of about $1200. jawdrop If that is all they did, you need to find a new marine mechanic. That should have cost you a few hundred and no more.
Do you have a water/fuel separating filter? You need one. I think you are fine on the gas. 2 gallons of bad gas isn't going to hurt it if you put 23 fresh gallons in it. The only things I can think of would be low fuel pressure, timing, or spark. Good Luck

[eliminatedsprinter]

Well, as you may have read in my other posts, my motors problem got worse not better. So, it is in the shop. It does have a water seperating fuel filter and we found no water in it when we checked. However, there was some sand. I've never bought fuel for it at the docks, but I guess the previous owner did. When I pulled the cover off I noticed a lot of the wireing looked old and worn with cracks in the insulation etc...
They did do more than just change the plugs, impeller and re-seal the lower unit, but not a lot more. They also gave it a tune-up/annual service, a new trailoring bracket for the OB, a new wiring harness/hook-up for the trailer, and a dole fin.

[eliminatedsprinter]

HavasuDreamin':
Post a picture of your rig. I would like to see it. :) You can see a pic of it on Hot Spots West on a post of Lake Issabella pics. It's the 3rd pic.
[ July 22, 2003, 04:32 PM: Message edited by: eliminatedsprinter ]

[OCStoker]

eliminatedsprinter:
HavasuDreamin':
Post a picture of your rig. I would like to see it. :) You can see a pic of it on Hot Spots West on a post of Lake Issabella pics. It's the 3rd pic. Your boat almost looks identical to my stoker

[eliminatedsprinter]

My boat was rigged by Stoker (according to it's previous owner and the folks at Eliminator). If yours is a 20 footer, it is my understanding they used the same deck molds. It has a different hull though. Mine is a pad bottom V.
[ July 23, 2003, 04:52 PM: Message edited by: eliminatedsprinter ]

[OCStoker]

eliminatedsprinter:
My boat was rigged by Stoker (according to it's previous owner and the folks at Eliminator). If yours is a 20 footer, it is my understanding they used the same deck molds. It has a different hull though. Mine is a pad bottom V. Yea, 20 4". The colors are almost identical. The deck is exactly the same. Tunnel though

[eliminatedsprinter]

Sound great :cool: what do you have srapped on the back?