Changed my first olds intake gasket set - Q

[speedymopars]

I hate stupid engineering. Why on earth didn't they make the distributor or the oil fill so it would allow you to R/R the intake. I had to pull the freekin disti to get the performer back on. On a chevy, OK, they had to do the oil pump and it landed in the middle of the intake. But on an OLDS? They moved everything so it didn't touch, but damn it needed to be removed anyway. All they had to do was one of the following - Make the intake sit a hair shorter. Make the disti sit a bit higher. Angle the distibutor shaft. Move the oil fill 1/2 inch. Angle the oil fill. All very do able, just not done.
The is going to rate up there with the water neck bolt on a 302 / 5.0 ford. 1/4 inch moved or rotated a couple of degrees, you could easily get to it but the timing cover guys and the intake guys never spoke.
I get spoiled on my BB Mopars, you never have to pull anything more than 8 bolts and a fuel line.
Anyway, on to my question. I replaced the leaky intake gaskets with some new felpro's without the exhaust passage cut out. At the same time, I had to remove the bathtub gasket, 'cause it leaked.
Obviously, the bathtup kept most of the oil off of the intake, but am I going to have issues now? I traded the hot exhaust for hot oil. I briefly thought about cutting the bathtub so I had the shield but not the ports, but when I realized it would be unsecured in there, I decided against it.
Should I look to get an oil shield in there, or not worry about it?
Where do the OLDS 455 like their timing to be set (initial / total)?
Thanks!

[victorfb]

you did good by leaving out the pan gasket. shlt can it and forget about it, you dont want it. as for timing, it all depends on how you assembled the engine. its been a long time but i think i set my olds at either 32 or 34 total. 32 sounds familiar though.

[tittyman]

Mondello Racing makes an oil shield so the oil does not splash up onto the manifold..

[Wet Dream]

Cap off the oil fill. I didn't know anyone really used it anymore. Use the breathers if you can. That big ugly tube got annoying after a while, so it got capped at the block. I believe it was a 15/16's freeze plug. That tube will come right out of there with a little persuasion.

[DelawareDave]

You can also use a transom drain tube in the hole for the stock oil fill tube. Rex Marine catalog page 157, bottom left. My original Olds Hardin Marine engine has one there, with the rubber twist plug, from the factory.

[speedymopars]

Good info, thanks guys.
I fired it up today, it sounded great. I managed to get the timing within 2 degrees of where it should have been when I reinstalled the disti, so that made things nice.
The intake ports look pretty decent though, I was impressed with that. I think next time the intake comes off, the oil fill goes with it. Man those oil drainback holes are small! That's probably why they put in an oil fill. Without it someone dumping 5 qts into the pan during an oil change will probably have the last quart go on the floor cause the VC's are full.
I have a Gil Marine 10 Qt pan I put on it - it has three plugs on the bottom of the front panel. Maybe I should use the 1/2 inch one for a drain / Fill. I know one is good for an oil temp sender.
I set the initial timing to 16, sounds nice and crisp. I need to see how much timing the disti has and what the curve is. I also need to see what my cranking pressure is so I can get an idea of the fuel I need to run.

[DelawareDave]

The oil drainback holes ARE small! This has been a sore point for a lot of Olds owners. Adding drains to the heads are one option, as are adding drains to the valve covers at the ends, to the oil pan, if you don't want to pull the heads off. I noticed when I filled mine with oil the first time, that it was easy to pour the oil in too fast, filling the valve cover.

[pw_Tony]

Dump the Olds and put a 440 on it!

[speedymopars]

Dump the Olds and put a 440 on it!
I agree - but I won't do it until I break it....I'll have some fun with it until the season is over at least :-)
440source has 543 ci setups for cheap (440)....I already have everything else....Or I could do a high reving 500/512 (400)...undecided...I have both...plus an extra 670 lift 320 duration solid roller cam and lifters, iron race heads, KB oil system.....

[speedymopars]

The oil drainback holes ARE small! This has been a sore point for a lot of Olds owners. Adding drains to the heads are one option, as are adding drains to the valve covers at the ends, to the oil pan, if you don't want to pull the heads off. I noticed when I filled mine with oil the first time, that it was easy to pour the oil in too fast, filling the valve cover.
I'll have to look into that... any special fittings or just the std AN deals?

[DelawareDave]

I'll look for the article in ***boat mag. It's here somewhere by my desk. :rolleyes: It gives actual dimensions where to drill the heads. I believe 3/8 NPT was the tap size. Timinator wrote the article. I've seen pics where someone did the valve covers at the back, with bulkhead fittings, I believe. As for fittings? I think you could use whatever you like that does the job. AN/ braided, pipe, rubber hose, SS hard line, etc.

[BrendellaJet]

I'll have to look into that... any special fittings or just the std AN deals?
anything will work. AN is always nice. (see superdave 013 for the deals) Just make sure its at the back of the head and in a position where the oil will actually flow through the fitting.

[BrendellaJet]

do yourself a favor, buy some resticted push rods too, that will help slow the oils ascent to the top. The drains will make sure it gets back where it belongs.