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H20MOFO
09-01-2007, 06:47 PM
AT WHAT TEMP DO THE RUBBER HOSES TAHT HOOK THE TRU-TRANSOM'S TO THE EXAUST TIPS MELT? DID THAT A COUPLE A WEEKS AGO. SO I BOUGHT A LASER PYROMETER AND TODAY THEY WERE PUSHIN 400*. WHATS THE BEST WAY TO TEST THE BASSETT T-VALVE?:idea:

victorfb
09-01-2007, 09:21 PM
more importantly is the oil and block/water temp. for the basset T valve which is basically the water temp guage, i prefer around 160-180 cruising, it will climb after a hard run, but just idle (or cruise) around a bit and it will cool down. if you have good hoses on your exhaust it will withstand the heat of normal operation.

H20MOFO
09-02-2007, 07:52 AM
So Ditch The Bassett Valve With Through Transom Bassetts. I'm Running A Thermostat Kit. I Just Installed A Gate Valve On The Bypass Line To Send More To The Headers. I Guess What I'm Askin Can You Think Of Anything Else I'm May Be Doin Wrong? Mabey I Should Call Paul And Get Him To Fax Me A Diagram Or Something?

H20MOFO
09-02-2007, 03:20 PM
Thanks(again) Rex One. I'll Try To Keep This Short.no Engine Cover.
The Boat Had Ovt Headers When I Bought (from The 70's), And I Got Tired Of Noise Issues. So I Found A Deal Tt's. I Do Need A Pres Gauge Workin On That. I've Installed A Oil Temp. Gauge But Havent Wired It Yet (or Wasted My Oil That Looks New Still,sender Is In Drain Plug) Yet Another Tip I Got Here. Weep Holes And Lines R All Blown Out. To Get Rid Of Reversion Issues I Guess Go Dry(and Get Tickets) Or Jacketed?

Cas
09-02-2007, 05:57 PM
If you have adequate water through the hoses they will not melt. This is one reason Bassett doesn't include a T valve with thru transom Bassetts. The T Valve makes them dry at idle. Hoses will not take that nor are they designed to.
I gotta disagree with you on this one Mike. I got a t-valve with my Bassett tt's and the instructions on how to set it to open at about 1700 rpms. The t- valve is there to help prevent bluing of the chrome whereas the water dumps go into the collectors to keep the hoses cool.

Rexone
09-02-2007, 06:14 PM
You're right they do include the t-valve now, but never did in the old days (rexone living in the 90's again :D).
I've deleted my other posts above because not applicable considering the added dump fittings.

Cas
09-02-2007, 06:25 PM
You're right they do include the t-valve now, but never did in the old days (rexone living in the 90's again :D).
I've deleted my other posts above because not applicable considering the added dump fittings.
not to worry, I wrote a check the other day and dated it 8/21/77 :D
77 was a pretty good year for me :)
so H20, do you have water bungs on the collectors?

H20MOFO
09-03-2007, 07:53 AM
They Are Injected(new Lines ,blown Out To Make Sure There Unpluged) It Has Weep Holes(also Cleared) Not Sure If I Have Bungs Or Not? Back On The Colector Facing Inward There Are 2 Bungs(i Guess) But They Dont Look Like They'd Do Any Thing There Are Nuts And Then Out Of The Center Of Them There Is Steel Cable About 3/16" Thick Making A Loop. I Always Wondered Why They Were There.i Wish I Could Posts A Pic.

Cas
09-03-2007, 08:02 AM
send me the pics again, it you like. Those fittings on the collectors are for the water dumps, no idea what someone else did to them though. The water routing should be-
pump to a tee
each side of tee to front of engine
1 side of thermo housing to a tee - each side of tee to each collector
other side of thermo to a valve then to Bassett tee then to each side injector.
The valve to the Bassett tee needs to be adjusted so the water comes on to the injectors at about 1800 rpms. The easiest way I found to do that is to back the boat into the water, disconnect one of the injector lines, fire up the engine. Bring the rpm's up to about 1800 rpms with the water flowing to the injector line, turn the valve until the water turns off. Test to make sure it's correct, reinstall line.....done.

H20MOFO
09-03-2007, 08:30 AM
Cas Should I Unscrew The Bolt- Cable Out Of The Bung Won' That Give Me A Nifty Exaust Leak? I Bought These Off A Guy Who Had Em On A Day Cruiser In An Enclosed Compartment.(nice Huh). If The Water Comes On Later Than 1700 Thats When You Shut The Gate Valve On The Dump Side Right. I Cant Even Blow Through The Bassett Valve Is That Normal. Never Had A Problem Till I Put The Thermostat Kit On. By The Way Water Temp. Never Got Over 130*.

Cas
09-03-2007, 08:40 AM
here's a pic of an old set I had. You can see the water fittings on the collectors, they should be open into the pipes-
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l204/Cas2006/Parts%20Pics/headers1.jpg
You shouldn't have a valve on the dump side to the collectors. The valve needs to be on the side bafore the Bassett tee and yes, that's the one you adjust to the proper rpm. The Bassett tee works off water pressure not temp. I doubt you have enough air in your lungs to open the Bassett tee by blowing through it. I would take it apart to check the spring and ball for rust.

Cas
09-03-2007, 08:48 AM
here's a picture of the fitting on my current headers-
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l204/Cas2006/Parts%20Pics/header.jpg
did you get my email yesterday? This water issue could be directly related to how your boat ran the other day. If you had too much water going to the injectors along with the 108ยบ on your cam, you could have gotten some reversion.

junkyardhunter
09-03-2007, 08:57 AM
http://www.bassettracing.com/newpage7.htm#Jet-Drive%20Application%20Diagram
This might help

H20MOFO
09-03-2007, 09:20 AM
Cas I Think Were Saying The Same Thing. When I Say Dump Maybe I Should Say Bypass Line (the One That Dumps Out The Back Of The Boat) As You Close That Valve (on The Bypass Line) Then The Water Is Forced More Out The Header T'd Side. That E'mail I Gave You Was My Works I'll Be Checking Tommorow. Thanks For The Link Junkyard. When I Bought My Boat It Had Plumbin Issues No Bassett Valve Ect. Paul Bassett Is A Very Helpful And Nice Guy. I Pulled Those Plugs Out Of The Bungs , Sure Seems Like It's Goin To Sound Funny Now.

Cas
09-03-2007, 09:33 AM
Cas I Think Were Saying The Same Thing. When I Say Dump Maybe I Should Say Bypass Line (the One That Dumps Out The Back Of The Boat) As You Close That Valve (on The Bypass Line) Then The Water Is Forced More Out The Header T'd Side.
Yep, you're right :)
gotcha on the email thing, I gave you a few suggestions on your other issue.

H20MOFO
09-03-2007, 02:37 PM
Thanks Cas. O.k 1 More Then I'll Drop It. I Can See How Pulling The Plug Out Of That Bung Could Help Hydro Locking But Not Reversion Burning Exaust Hoses Ect. I Doubt I Had Too Much Water (just By Judging On What Was Coming Out Of The Weep Holes.) Doesn't Some One Make Braided Stainless Instead Of Rubber? Or Something? I Think The Thermostat KIT Is Comin Off. I Had None Of These Problems Last Year And Had The Same Headers. Oh The Day I Fried The Last HOSES , I Had No Gate Valve On The Dump/bypass Line. Yesterday I Did( HAVE A GATE VALVE) And The Exaust Still Smelled Hot.(no Smoke Though) I HAD THAT VALVE 3/8 TO 1/2 SHUT BY THE TIME I LEFT THE LAKE. ANYONE?

Cas
09-03-2007, 03:30 PM
Thanks Cas. O.k 1 More Then I'll Drop It. I Can See How Pulling The Plug Out Of That Bung Could Help Hydro Locking But Not Reversion Burning Exaust Hoses Ect. I Doubt I Had Too Much Water (just By Judging On What Was Coming Out Of The Weep Holes.) Doesn't Some One Make Braided Stainless Instead Of Rubber? Or Something? I Think The Thermostat KIT Is Comin Off. I Had None Of These Problems Last Year And Had The Same Headers. Oh The Day I Fried The Last HOSES , I Had No Gate Valve On The Dump/bypass Line. Yesterday I Did( HAVE A GATE VALVE) And The Exaust Still Smelled Hot.(no Smoke Though) I HAD THAT VALVE 3/8 TO 1/2 SHUT BY THE TIME I LEFT THE LAKE. ANYONE?
When the engine water gets dumped into the collector, the water keeps the rubber hoses cool so they won't burn. As far as reversion, the rise in the headers is plenty high enough so the water won't back up into the engine.
You can get ss braid and the proper fittings to go that route which I'm sure I will eventually do. At the time I plumbed mine, I had already spent more than what I wanted.
I can't help you with the differences between this year and last. Did you add the thermostat set-up since? That shouldn't even make a difference since they have a built in by-pass that would hook up to the collectors.
I dunno?

H20MOFO
09-03-2007, 04:36 PM
Wow I Do Need Help. I'll Call You Cas. The Plumbing Diagram I Got From Rex Marine (4 Port Thermostat Housing) Showed Nothin (or At Least I Thought) Plumbed To The Collector? OR Does The By-pass Line(s) Get Plumbed There Instead Of Out The Back Of The Boat? I Thought Those Hoses In Your Pic Just Went Down To The Bottom Of The Boat, And Exaust Gas Would Be Blowin Everyehere . Yikes

Cas
09-03-2007, 05:45 PM
Wow I Do Need Help. I'll Call You Cas. The Plumbing Diagram I Got From Rex Marine (4 Port Thermostat Housing) Showed Nothin (or At Least I Thought) Plumbed To The Collector? OR Does The By-pass Line(s) Get Plumbed There Instead Of Out The Back Of The Boat? I Thought Those Hoses In Your Pic Just Went Down To The Bottom Of The Boat, And Exaust Gas Would Be Blowin Everyehere . Yikes
yes, those by-pass hoses do get plumbed to the collectors on the TT type headers instead of out the back of the boat. Sorry for not explaining the hose to the collector better but yes, that where the thermostat dump is connected.

H20MOFO
09-04-2007, 07:07 AM
No Wonder I Kept Fryin Hoses. It's Kinda Like How My K Boat Would Dump Into The Logs Behind The Snails. Thanks Cas.