12JG Bolt Head is officially Broken off!

[probablecause]

Now that the bolt head is officially broken off and almost flush with the split bowl, what are the recommendations for getting it out? Nothing left to grab. Any recommendations on a good drill bit combo?
Also, when pulling the other 7 bolts out, one was very difficult to get out and looks like the threads "jumped" while being removed as two of the actual threads on the bolt are flattened out. I am obvisouly going to have to re-tap all of the holes. Should I go with stainless bolts or zinc plated from the hardware store?

[FASTRAT]

Now that the bolt head is officially broken off and almost flush with the split bowl, what are the recommendations for getting it out? Nothing left to grab. Any recommendations on a good drill bit combo?
Also, when pulling the other 7 bolts out, one was very difficult to get out and looks like the threads "jumped" while being removed as two of the actual threads on the bolt are flattened out. I am obvisouly going to have to re-tap all of the holes. Should I go with stainless bolts or zinc plated from the hardware store?
my suggestion would be to drill the bolt & use an "easy out"...also...re-tap all the holes & use stainless bolts/studs with anti-seize on the threads...alot of people use studs instead of the bolts...n/p's that way...lock-tite the studs in place, that way they wont turn when u take it apart again...use the nuts with the nylon in them & washers...they work great...just my .02 cents
fastrat

[olbiezer]

just remember when u tighten the stainles bolts that the aluminium bowl is alot softer material.......dont over tighten

[Clockstart]

Now that the bolt head is officially broken off and almost flush with the split bowl, what are the recommendations for getting it out? Nothing left to grab.Do yourself a favor and don't try the easyout! Take it to Jerry's Broken Drill & Tap Removal on Chestnut St in Santa Ana, and have it EDM'd out. Or go to a competent machine shop. Or take it to the guys that repair jets in Costa Mesa.
Trying to drill it out by hand will probably cause you more grief unless you have experience in that sort of thing.

[SmokinLowriderSS]

Do yourself a favor and don't try the easyout! Take it to Jerry's Broken Drill & Tap Removal on Chestnut St in Santa Ana, and have it EDM'd out. Or go to a competent machine shop. Or take it to the guys that repair jets in Costa Mesa.
Trying to drill it out by hand will probably cause you more grief unless you have experience in that sort of thing.
As easy as it is to drill/EZ-out stuff, if you have a local place that this sounds like (Jerry's), and if it didn't cost ya a fortune, it might well be worth the hassle and a $20 or so.

[wsuwrhr]

Do yourself a favor and don't try the easyout! Take it to Jerry's Broken Drill & Tap Removal on Chestnut St in Santa Ana, and have it EDM'd out. Or go to a competent machine shop. Or take it to the guys that repair jets in Costa Mesa.
Trying to drill it out by hand will probably cause you more grief unless you have experience in that sort of thing.
Yea what he said

[boater012]

if i was you and i have been in thissituation more than once id helicoil all the holes and id locktite studs in place before you reassemble the bowl and after having the bolt edm'd out a much cleaner way to go than trying to keep a drill biy straight! my .02 cents worth

[spectras only]

If you have steel bolts ,there's a remedy . Place the bowl upright, Make a funnel out of wax and place it over the hole with the broken bit. Pour muriatic acid in the funnel , sit back and relax till next day or so. The acid will dissolve the steel bolt to the point that it can be removed with needle nose pliers . Did this method on military equipment to save the castings when we broke some taps in the suckers .

[sleekcrafter]

I had all the studs on a set of Hardin logs and risers, broken off, got a few with visegrips, but the remaining studs were burnt out with an EDM machine as advised above.
Sleek

[boater012]

DO NOT under any circumstances use muriatic acid anywhere near aluminum !you will not have a bowl or any other aluminum part it comes in contact with left! muriatic attacks aluminum like stink on shizat!!! trust me on this one ive ruined a couple aluminum parts in my times with it. :crossx: :mad: :220v: if you dont believe me put some in an aluminum can and set it in your driveway and get ready to have a clean spot on your driveway p.s. if your neighbors ask what your doing tell them its simple green or coke and have the hose ready to wash away the evidence!

[Cs19]

Do yourself a favor and don't try the easyout! Take it to Jerry's Broken Drill & Tap Removal on Chestnut St in Santa Ana, and have it EDM'd out. Or go to a competent machine shop. Or take it to the guys that repair jets in Costa Mesa.
Trying to drill it out by hand will probably cause you more grief unless you have experience in that sort of thing.
what he said.

[beerjet]

I am always working with stainless and broken fastners and by taking it to some one with right equipment will be sooooo worth it . I am always in your situaition and the end result is never pretty especially with stainless. my .02
-beerjet-

[b's sanger]

Take some pics of your problems. Had similar issues with stainless hardware. Had to back and forth it with WD40. Solution is a whole lot of anti sieze and dont torque the stainless hardware too fast. slow and steady. heat is your enemy.

[sdba069]

I can't believe that guy said to use muratic acid on that. What I like to do, where I can, is weld a good sized nut to the top of the dutchmen, broken off bolt, then try backing it out. The heat from the welding process goes a long way in helping out in loosening it up. Retap all the hoiles and anti-seize, anti-seize, and more anti-seize. Actually a little of that goes a long way. In my shop, every fastener or fitting has something applied to it before it's installed, anti-seize, loctite, sealer, or teflon tape, no bare threads. Back to the acid thing, that's what I use in my outboard blocks to get the aluminum out of a steel sleeve or chrome bore when we've galled a piston. It won't hurt the steel or chrome cylinder or sleeve, but will eat the aluminum left by the burned piston. I do go to a little trouble to keep the acid out of the ports and getting on raw aluminum. Anyway, good luck with the bolt.

[PUMPkin]

Bolt Head is officially Broken off!
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Now that the bolt head is officially broken off and almost flush with the split bowl, what are the recommendations for getting it out? Nothing left to grab. Any recommendations on a good drill bit combo?
Also, when pulling the other 7 bolts out, one was very difficult to get out and looks like the threads "jumped" while being removed as two of the actual threads on the bolt are flattened out. I am obvisouly going to have to re-tap all of the holes. Should I go with stainless bolts or zinc plated from the hardware store?
Been there done that. If you can drill the hole straight in, you can set the easy-out in and remove the bolt but I wouldn't do this until I put some lube (liquid wrench) in and let it soak over night. Use a punch to score the CENTER of the bolt so your drill bit won't start drilling on the side of the bolt. After measuring the depth of the other holes, Marking the drill bit so you know how deep you have to drill, Drill the hole.
ON the other hand you can buy a dril bit that is a left handed spin and start drilling it. It might loosen up and come out while you are drilling it.
Hope this works for you
Steve

[jweeks123]

If you can drill the hole straight in, you can set the easy-out in and remove the bolt but I wouldn't do this until I put some lube (liquid wrench) in and let it soak over night. Use a punch to score the CENTER of the bolt so your drill bit won't start drilling on the side of the bolt.
Steve
steve, tell him more about easy-outs. for a 5/16 bolt the easy-out would be about 3/16. that's pretty small. easy-outs have to be real hard steel in order to bite into the broken bolt. infact they are "harder than the hinges of hades" in some machine shop lingo. that means brittle. so when you break off the easy-out, yur stuck with something too hard for normal drills to remove. i'd follow the earlier advice about going to someone with experience in removing broken bolts.
interesting how one guy says acid will eat the bolt. nother says acid will eat the aluminum. guess that's the internet for ya. :confused:
jw

[YeLLowBoaT]

you can also try the nail set /punch and hammer trick. gently tap the bolt to untwist it. Used it many times just let the wd/pentarting oil sit for atleast 20 mins. I always try this 1st.... some of those "ez out " tools FOOK UP THE BOLT SO BAD THAT YOU CAN NO LONGER DRILL A STRAIT HOLE WITH OUT THE USE OF A DRILL PRESS.
all you need is a few turns of it sticking out for the vise grips.

[spectras only]

DO NOT under any circumstances use muriatic acid anywhere near aluminum !you will not have a bowl or any other aluminum part it comes in contact with left! muriatic attacks aluminum like stink on shizat!!!
Any time you get a broken stud out , you better drill up for a helicoil :idea: .
Do you see any damage on the aluminum anywhere on this bike ? I've been restoring classic bikes since the 60's ,and that's the internet for you :rolleyes:
http://www3.telus.net/spectrasonly/bike3%20copy.jpg
A jet bowl is a lot tougher than any bike parts !