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BiggusJimbus
09-29-2007, 03:42 PM
I have a '96 K2500 burb with about 98k miles and have a driveline or suspension issue, I'm not sure which.
I notice some play in the half shaft on the drivers side front, but it doesn't seem to be unreasonable. Enough to accomodate the articulation, but nothing excessive, and no axial play.
I have a rattling sound when I go over bumps that is occuring on that side and can't seem to find a source. Should I be looking at the upper control arm shaft as a possible culprit? How could I test that short of pulling the spring and dissassembling the front suspension.
I'd like to not be just guessing and throwing parts at the situation. This truck and all it's stupid little problems are driving me nuts.
Thanks for any assistance or suggestions.
Jim.

CBadDad
09-29-2007, 03:48 PM
Sounds like....
....two weeks in Fiji. :D

BiggusJimbus
09-29-2007, 03:49 PM
OK,
I'll test that first.
See you in two weeks.
OK, I'm back. It was a mental vacation. Pretty disappointing really.

Big Kahunaa
09-29-2007, 03:53 PM
look at the sway bar bushings

BiggusJimbus
09-29-2007, 04:06 PM
Doh,
I left out a symptom...
When I am making a right turn, there is some vibration that comes through the steering wheel. I haven't pulled off the rotor, but I notice no play in the bearings.
That was one reason why I was suspicous of some of the control arm bushings, that would feedback through the steering, I'm not so sure that play in the sway bar would. It's also why I was first suspicious of the half shaft. But I thoughtthat usually those half shafts are good for a couple hundred thou before needing attention.
Sorry I didn't list that amongst our assets.

Jordy
09-29-2007, 04:31 PM
So don't go over bumps, don't turn right, and if the noise persists, put a bigger stereo in the 'burb. :D
Duh! :D

RitcheyRch
09-29-2007, 06:28 PM
Problem solved. :D
So don't go over bumps, don't turn right, and if the noise persists, put a bigger stereo in the 'burb. :D
Duh! :D

Cheap Thrills
09-29-2007, 06:39 PM
The rattle could be a lose brake pad. If the caliper is sticky I can see it getting hot enough to take the temper out of the retainer. and if they are sticky and the rotor is slightly warped with the added pressure encountered in the turn could throw enough resistance against the rotor and pad to feel a slight vibration.
Just a guess.
T.

sb540
09-29-2007, 11:02 PM
Sway bar or tie rods. Give em a quick check.
Does it pull one way or another?
No vibration under left turns or just not as bad?
Does it vibrate at all speeds, or just slow turns?
My buddy had a Tahoe that would vibrate like a dog trying to sh*t a peach pit at anything above 35mph. I put it up on a rack and the tie rod was bent really bad. Then he tells me he hit a dresser on the freeway a couple days before. :D
Probably not control arms. You would get a destinct clunk and a pull under accel/decel

phebus
09-30-2007, 06:09 AM
Did the '96 have problems with the intermediate steering shaft? I know all the newer models did. Symptoms were exactly as you describe.

BiggusJimbus
09-30-2007, 07:12 AM
only NOTICE the vibration at slower speeds. Not real severe. No drivability problems at highway speeds. No pulling. Haven't hit anything (Can't say for absolute fact that the wife hasn't). Definitly only vibrates when turning the one direction (So far).
No pedal pulsation, so I don't believe there is a warped rotor, although I will probably swap them both out on the next pad change which is never that far away on that giant pig.
I'll go through the steering components and look for any issues. I'll pull the caliper and check the pads, Might be time to rebuild the calipers this next go around.
Thanks for the ideas (Well, not Jordy's so much, although amusing, I can't make this a NASCAR track truck).

repo man
09-30-2007, 08:36 AM
sometimes the shock bushing will wear out and the metal washer will rattle against the shaft of the shock.

BiggusJimbus
09-30-2007, 08:57 AM
Yeah, That was happening before I changed out the shocks about 3k miles ago. I guess 95K was about all I could expect out of a set of stock shocks.
I'll go out and poke around in an hour or so.
Thanks for the ideas.

beernut
09-30-2007, 09:14 AM
lots of good advice so far, the way to check the upper c-arm bushings, and both ball joints is to jack up the rig and put a jackstand under the frame,just behind the lower c-arm ,now put the floor jack under the lower ball joint on the lower arm and jack it up just enough to take the tension off the bump-stops now you can take a crow-bar and slide it under the tire and lift it up and down, also push and pull the tire in and out,and wiggle it in and out at the front, also slide under the front and grab the steering linkage and push up and down it should not move, if your rig has a steering box it has an idler arm and they got worn out and are a common replacment item :)

BiggusJimbus
09-30-2007, 09:19 AM
Thanks Beernut, I'll be trying that shortly.

BiggusJimbus
09-30-2007, 09:43 AM
Well past.
It is a Chevy.
Unfortunately, it's worth so little, I'd be hard pressed to replace it with what I want.
No Baller here. Otherwise, somebody else would be turning these wrenches.

sb540
09-30-2007, 02:10 PM
Jack the front end off the ground and grab the TOP and BOTTOM of the tires and try to rock them back and forth. Any play at all?