454 rebuild or 468

[468miller]

:idea: has anyone delt with east valley performance marine, i stopped by and met the owner, ive known vic personally for a few years going to rebuild the 454 or go to a 468 not looking for alot of speed id be happy with high 60s or would anyone reccomend anyone else..........

[Oldsquirt]

You do realize that a 468 is just a 454 with a .060" overbore, right? No sense going .060 over if it isn't necessary. For reference a .030" over is a 461. You aren't going to gain any noticeable power difference for those extra inches.

[468miller]

thanks for the advice, ya i knew that, do you think i can hit high 60s with a new tight pump and the 454 rebuilt though.......:idea:

[468miller]

they quoted me round 2 grand for a rebuild and head work, that sound bout right:idea:

[ol guy]

don't waste good metal trying to go larger by 060 overbore. If you can stay std save the money and tune the bottom, you will see more speed that way for the cost of the pistons and the machine work. Its a jet boat with a tight pump? you will see at best 5500 rpm cast or forged will do that unless you want to do marathon laps for 2-3 minutes! Get the water to and out of the pump and free up the boat first. Then you will get the hard-on to build more power, first things first. You would be better off holding off on the rebuild and setting up the bottom and then see how the boat works to you and what you want! I have seen so many people build boats and start at the wrong end. 600 Hp pushing a water plow makes a 600hp wake!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Work the bottom and the pump FIRST. You will save alot of money and be happier and have more money in hand to do the motor for what the boat will take and that that point you can figure out how fast you really want to go. MY 2 CENTS Mark

[468miller]

thanks this is the info im looking for, my buddy said hone the cylinders throw new rings and main bearings in it and have the pump gone thru and i should see mid 60s:idea:

[ol guy]

If you have been out on the boat recently tell me where the boat is breaking water and also if it is an 18 ft bubble deck. those bots are a good 70 mph boat with 1 simple change in you're garage and a spare weekend. Mark

[468miller]

its a 19 foot bubble deck, ive heard millers were built well and can handle speed

[ol guy]

Okay you are on line now and I will be for another 20 minutes or so. First where are you and did you ever notice where the boat broke water off the keel at speed, kind of looking over you're left shoulder. and second what year and how many hours on the motor and you need to break it down by years and boat time. Reason being I have seen alot of people play with boats for 10 years and say its time for a rebuild and found that said boat was used maybe 100 hrs per year, If you do the math how many miles does that compute to! And look at the load of a car or truck on the road under various conditions, usually not good to a boat basically on easy time(unless you push your'e boat to the edge). [I] have pulled boat motors apart that where 15-20 years old and the bottom end was like new-the top end is where they take the biggest beating due to sit and winter time, valve springs sag and so on.MARK

[468miller]

orig owner took it out twice a year, maybe i just need a freshen up, ran 63.5 on gps with a worn pump, and 3 guys in it, reason im worried is that my t valve stuck an dwater poured out my pipes at idle, i got water in the motor but not alot, and shut it down and put it on the trailer, my buddies think i saved it in time

[ol guy]

Do a compression check first thing and if you have the tools a leak down! From the sounds of the situation maybe a hydraulic problem?????????????? Mark

[468miller]

lifters wernt spinning as i was told, vic suggusted rings bearings, cam and lifters

[ol guy]

Lifters werent spinning????? that could be valve adjust. Go ahead pull the motor apart and see how much "VIC" wants. Good Luck and Play with the Motor.

[468miller]

thanks for the info........:D

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

Go see Jay!!! He is next door to Lopers here in Mesa!!! Those guys at East valley are.....well......nevermind. Just go see Jay;) He used to OWN East Valley Performance;) If you need any help pm me. Im local and can help you achieve a few goals;)
Michael

[SmokinLowriderSS]

they quoted me round 2 grand for a rebuild and head work, that sound bout right:idea:
I did mine for $1800, and that included a new cam kit and alum. manifold.
Didn't need a bore, just a de-glaze.
If that is stock parts ($2000), add about a grand and make a few upgrades.
Good cam to make power at or below 5,500 MAX.
Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap manifold.
Put ARP Wave-loc rod bolts in (Chevy advises NOT to re-use the knurled 3/8 rod bolts in a rebuild, they advise replace EVERY TIME) and have the rods resized.
Another c-note and change would let you put ARP main studs in the lower end and, unlike some, since the caps reference on the block, not on the bolts (or studs) it is not IMO necissary to align-hone the mains when replacing these. There are debates of this on the board. Only once have I found anyone who check-measured before and after, and found ANY bearing opening dimension change. Othere instances of checking, found no change.
Studded my bottom end last winter. No issues.
Studding my heads this winter while the heads are off at the porting shop. :D
I'm not fixing problems here, just upgrading fastening.
No matter what you do, if you are running log exhaust manifolds, you will be stuck at or below about 400 HP. Those things are very restrictive.
Most likely (if you are lucky) you have large oval port heads, which is very good, with the small factory valves, which is not so good. Another restriction if you upgrade the other parts.
Once you start, it's ONLY $$$$$$$$$. :D :D :D

[ck7684]

I'm seeing an easy 5300 RPM with fresh, tight pump and "A" impeller, with logs...havent stayed in it though :D

[468miller]

thanks mike, il swing by there and chat with him today...........