dual tank install!

[jetboat]

never plumbed a duel tank before,feeding the tanks is a holley blue,any digrams or photos of this "simple'' install?

[TJS]

I ran -10 AN lines from the tank pickups. If you have the tanks out, clean them and make sure the pickup tubes are still attached. Then both -10 AN lines meet up with a Perma-Cool (1/2 NPT inlet fittings) fuel water sep/filter, however right before the water sep/filter I have ball valves so I can turn the flow on and off at each tank. There are elect. valves available on the market, but the good ones are a lot of $$$. I then run -10AN from the outlet of the water sep./filter to the Clay Smith mech fuel pump. Then -8AN line to my fuel log/regulator/gauge set up to the carb. You would put the holley elec. pump after the water sep./filter. I think I got the water sep./filter at Summit.
T.J.
You can see it on the right in this pic on the transom.
http://www.tjsperformance.com/images/nordic78.jpg

[Devilman]

never plumbed a duel tank before,feeding the tanks is a holley blue,any digrams or photos of this "simple'' install?
Are you going to run it through a switching valve or pull from both tanks simultaneously?

[jetboat]

kenny, really dont know what i need.my boat has a single tank,my buddys has the dual.i'am hopping its simple.

[GAWnCA]

Just for the sake of asking a dumb question. Can someone tell me what size -10 and -8 really is? I have twin tanks on my Miller and they have 5/16" black rubber fuel lines coming off them. These attach to a simple "T" from which another black rubber line goes to the fuel pump. The tanks have a barbed fitting for the fuel pick up tubes. I just bought the Holley Blue marine kit which includes a regulator set at 14 lbs. I'm working my way away from all this black rubber hose, including water lines. The Holley that I received has what looks to be a pressure over flow tube coming off the body of the diaphram, where would you route that to. I've only got one carb on this motor (460 cid Ford, pretty much stock). Who ever had this before me had the fuel filter located just before the carb... That changed out quick.
I know that twin tanks never feed at the same rate so one is always going down faster than the other. Where would someone find an electric fuel switching system?
Thanks.

[GravelSlinger]

would be about a -5, but you can get away with a -6. an lines are about equal to a 1/16", therefore a -6 = 6/16=3/8
The AN thread is a particular type of fitting used to connect flexible hoses and rigid metal tubing that carry fluid. It is a US military-derived specification stemming from a joint standard agreed upon by the Air Force and Navy, hence AN.
AN sizes range from -2 (dash two) to -32 in irregular steps, with each step equating to the OD (outside diameter) of the tubing in 1/16" increments. Therefore, a -8 AN size would be equal to 1/2" OD tube (8 x 1/16 = 1/2). However, this system does not specify the ID (inside diameter) of the tubing because the tube wall can vary in thickness. Each AN size also uses its own standard thread size.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AN_thread

[Devilman]

kenny, really dont know what i need.my boat has a single tank,my buddys has the dual.i'am hopping its simple.
Mine has a Holley Blue on it, but only pulling from the bow tank, its about as simple as it gets. Holley pulls it from the tank and sends it to the carb, lol.
It shouldn't be too difficult, just have to take a little time on the layout.

[GAWnCA]

Mine has a Holley Blue on it, but only pulling from the bow tank, its about as simple as it gets. Holley pulls it from the tank and sends it to the carb, lol.
It shouldn't be too difficult, just have to take a little time on the layout.
I was thinking the same thing since you don't have to worry about balance or one tank running dry first and then sucking air. My 2 cents, would be to run a solid line from the tank to the fuel pump and then whatever it takes from there to the carb.

[GAWnCA]

would be about a -5, but you can get away with a -6. an lines are about equal to a 1/16", therefore a -6 = 6/16=3/8
The AN thread is a particular type of fitting used to connect flexible hoses and rigid metal tubing that carry fluid. It is a US military-derived specification stemming from a joint standard agreed upon by the Air Force and Navy, hence AN.
AN sizes range from -2 (dash two) to -32 in irregular steps, with each step equating to the OD (outside diameter) of the tubing in 1/16" increments. Therefore, a -8 AN size would be equal to 1/2" OD tube (8 x 1/16 = 1/2). However, this system does not specify the ID (inside diameter) of the tubing because the tube wall can vary in thickness. Each AN size also uses its own standard thread size.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AN_thread
Thanks GS, Now I don't know what I should do to plumb in the saddle tanks. :D For the barbed fittings can braided lines be clamped? I like the idea of having an electric switching device so the tanks can be switched to keep the fuel level pretty equal but after looking at Rex Marine, the cost is outrageous!

[jetboat]

kenny,the avenger was simple,these are saddle tanks,my simple thought was to get a brass barbed ''T'' valve so both tanks feed into,then a single line from the ''T'' to the elect.fuel pump,then to the filter and carb.is this the general way?

[jetboatperformance]

I ran -10 AN lines from the tank pickups. If you have the tanks out, clean them and make sure the pickup tubes are still attached. Then both -10 AN lines meet up with a Perma-Cool (1/2 NPT inlet fittings) fuel water sep/filter, however right before the water sep/filter I have ball valves so I can turn the flow on and off at each tank. There are elect. valves available on the market, but the good ones are a lot of $$$. I then run -10AN from the outlet of the water sep./filter to the Clay Smith mech fuel pump. Then -8AN line to my fuel log/regulator/gauge set up to the carb. You would put the holley elec. pump after the water sep./filter. I think I got the water sep./filter at Summit.
T.J.
You can see it on the right in this pic on the transom.
http://www.tjsperformance.com/images/nordic78.jpg
Good advice here in my opinion. We always try to isolate the tanks right and left so that they can be "selected" and we run reasonalby large lines according to fuel "demand". Brass manual tank valves are cheap The new billet ones are not too bad ($) and yes approved electric valves are a little spendy Tom
heres a product we just stated to use ,very nice quality !
http://www.golanproducts.com/fuel_valves.html

[jetboat]

thanks tom,those pictures are helpfull. what manuel ones would you recomend?

[Devilman]

kenny,the avenger was simple,these are saddle tanks,my simple thought was to get a brass barbed ''T'' valve so both tanks feed into,then a single line from the ''T'' to the elect.fuel pump,then to the filter and carb.is this the general way?
That seems like it would be the simplest way. But as it was mentioned, it probably will not draw fuel from both tanks at exactly the same rate. I wouldn't think that to be a big issue on a lake cruiser, unless you're in the habit of running it down to empty, lol. You may want to put a filter between the tank & the pump, depending on the condition of the tanks. Mine doesn't have one, but it may not be a bad idea.
I was considering getting a set of side tanks & plumbing all three through a switching valve. I thought running the fuel out of the side tanks would get some weight transferred to the back of the boat, maybe get her running a little drier, but still have the bow tank if I ever needed to really gas it up for a long cruise. After thinking about it over a few beers, I decided it made better sense to just leave it the f*ck alone & run it. :idea: :D

[thatguy]

Just for the sake of asking a dumb question. Can someone tell me what size -10 and -8 really is? I have twin tanks on my Miller and they have 5/16" black rubber fuel lines coming off them. These attach to a simple "T" from which another black rubber line goes to the fuel pump. The tanks have a barbed fitting for the fuel pick up tubes. I just bought the Holley Blue marine kit which includes a regulator set at 14 lbs. I'm working my way away from all this black rubber hose, including water lines. The Holley that I received has what looks to be a pressure over flow tube coming off the body of the diaphram, where would you route that to. I've only got one carb on this motor (460 cid Ford, pretty much stock). Who ever had this before me had the fuel filter located just before the carb... That changed out quick.
I know that twin tanks never feed at the same rate so one is always going down faster than the other. Where would someone find an electric fuel switching system?
Thanks.
I have the same boat. Look at the picture here and you can see my set up.
It is almost identical to described above.
Therma-cool, blue pump.
3/8 hose to the "T", then to filter, then to pump. 10AN braided to reg. at carbs. (10AN line is not hooked up to pump in this picture)
I have a brass ball valve on the right side tank only.(It draws first because it has a bottom PU. ) I restrict the valve for even flow, more or less. The tanks tend to equalize when the boat sits.
That tube on your pump is an air vent, I believe, not a dump line.
(I hope so at least, I dont have anything hooked to it!)
Tommy

[jetboat]

kenney,i was palying with the idea of removing the bow tank and replacing it with a center tank,but would have had to redo the seating again.since you have the rear seating,glass in a box and install a t ank vs. two saddle tanks.might ride more tword the back rather than the middle.

[jetboat]

thanks for the picture thatguy,thats the direction i was going.

[GAWnCA]

Fuel Filters.... Everything I've read to date says to put fuel filters before the pump so as not to pull a lot of crap into the pump. Then, I've also read that adding a filter behind the pump is also a good idea. 3 filters would make sure you don't get crap in your carb.
Tom, I guess the manual valve is going to be my choice. You just have to be careful when switching the tanks not to get burned on the headers. Greg

[Devilman]

kenney,i was palying with the idea of removing the bow tank and replacing it with a center tank,but would have had to redo the seating again.since you have the rear seating,glass in a box and install a t ank vs. two saddle tanks.might ride more tword the back rather than the middle.
I did give it some thought, even have a friend that could build the tanks for me. I really don't think the end result would be worth all the hassle, in my opinion. Besides, don't want it leaning too far back with my front sump pan & all. http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/10158rolleyes.gif