Basic diverter operation

[El Prosecutor]

Instead of Googling this and getting info of questionable authority, I want to go straight to the experts:
Will one of you guys please describe the basic operation of a diverter, i.e. the typical positions of the diverter from a dead stop all the way through a sustained top speed run.

[BigBlockBaja]

I use mine like this.
Normal running around I just leave it level.
Max speed I turn it up for about a 4-5 foot tail.
Boat with chicks in it full up.
Person skiing I run it down some to prevent any spray.
Reverse I run it full down.

[Dimarco Kid]

I run mine level most of the time, up looks cool but bye bye fuel. Wet Dream on here runs his all the way up, even in reverse. LOL
BBBaja's preference is the way most of us run em.

[Aluminum Squirt]

Every hull is very different but I'll try a broad genaralization. All the way down is for launch, this keeps the thrust line lowest, no roost and jumps the boat up on plane. As you get on plane you can start putting in some divereter and making the hull fly. At top end you'll probably be in the 1/2-3/4 area and throwing a moderate roost, mine was about 10' high when I was trimmed for maximum speed. The full up rooster is for showing off, hosing down bridges, and dispatching lake lice who have wondered a bit too close. Again this is very fifferent for every hull. Some boats like a huge rooster and will run the best numbers with the tail all the way up, others don't like it at all. As a side note, a PD is good for rough water too, when a wake or rough water is coming, you trim all the way down to get the bow to cut the waves (again this is probably opposite on a tunnel where you'd want to air out a cruiser wake or some choppy water? I don't know, I've never driven a tunnel). I don't run a PD anymore because they are too easy to break on sand bars. When I had one it was pretty cool. I'd trim out my max speed and just trim down in corners. This would slow the hull a little and make it turn great, when I cleared the corner I'd trim back up. At my speeds it was pretty much a WFO run with some steering and PD input and that was about it. Hope this helps. There are plenty of people smarter than me around here who can offer some better insight-Aluminum Squirt

[FLEA DIDDY]

Aluminum squirt pretty much nailed it. I have a tunnel hull and got my best speed with it 3 notches from all the way up. All other times I just cruised with it down( no rooster ) unless it was time to show what is up with rooster. You'll just have to play with it and figure out what your boat like. Good luck

[blown428fe]

You'll just have to play with it and figure out what your boat like. Good luck
Yes, you will feel where it has to be for best performance.

[centerhill condor]

adjust it in small increments until you learn the boat... mine is hydraulic and is all about getting the boat out of the water to reduce drag. at 3000 rpm i can go 25 mph full down or adjust the diverter up slightly and go 30 mph (indicated) for the same rpm. the visual effect is awesome at wot and it reduces bod/cod for better fish health! if you have to have a reason.

[Aluminum Squirt]

This will probably spark the old debate over hydraulic vs. manual as well. I've had a hydraulic unit, never a manual. I like the idea of a manual set up becuase the notches mean something. You can have a notch for launching, top end, bridge marking, pulling friendly skiers, pulling you ex-wife on a tube, etc. Its a positive movement and you know what each notch does from experimentation. It's fast, less to break, etc.
The hydraulic set up looks cool, and generally functions pretty reliably. Who doesn't like the look of a button on their steering wheel that makes your boat go faster and look cooler, not to mention the braided lines and cylinder on the pump. It also travels pretty quick if you are all wired and plumbed properly. The thing I didn't like about hydraulic was that I was never quite sure where my diverter was unless I looked back. My indicator was a piece of crap. I'm not a big fan of taking my eyes off the water. I could generally feel what was fastest, but I would have preferred to know that all I had to do was go to notch #? for max speed. You can always install a stop in your hydraulic set up, but these usually aren't very adjustable, at least not very easily, so after you get done smoking somebody and you want to make a glory pass with a huge tail, you can't. If your building a race boat I guess it would work out pretty good. The racers probably have a way more sophisticated set up with air shifters and computers but I'm not very familiar with lake drag stuff.
Anyway, a little off topic but it sounds like you are setting up for a diverter purchase and I thought you may want a little more info while trying to make your choice-Aluminum Squirt
PS-I'm sure you have gathered the fact that a diverter is a must have on just about any jet (except for mine LOL). It makes everything better, from hauling ass, showing off, pulling skiers, backing up, tackling rough water etc. Definetly get one if you can.

[jdf]

we have a hyd. and i love it ...you just have to know how many bump's on the switch is what angle ...3 bump's to me is a tail 3-5 feet and best mph.

[Squirtcha?]

Lots of good stuff.
No expert, but have played around some.
As far as best performance, like the others have stated, you should be able to feel when the hull loosens up. Run with a gps and it'll verify it for you at WOT. I had a buddy that I've boated with for years. I kept seeing him run WOT with the diverter full up and questioned him on it. Previously he was convinced that his max speed was with the diverter full up. After talking with him, he went out and ran it both ways with the gps, first full up, then in the sweet spot. He picked up 3 mph when it was in the correct position. He's a believer now.
You can do the same thing at cruise speeds for fuel economy too. Get that loose feeling at cruise and that will be where you have the least amount of drag and best fuel economy.
If you drive around with the diverter full down (or up for that matter) you're just scrubbing off speed and making the motor work harder than it needs to, consequently using more fuel.
P.S. I prefer my manual diverter over hydraulic too. It's just a personal preference thing though. The manual does have some slop in it due to the cable/linkage, but for my lake boat I don't think it makes that much difference.