21 Daytona help-pics

[H20MOFO]

Could someone please tell/show me how a stock set of tanks mount via the holes in the bottom of the boat, are the fastners like some kind of carrriage bolt? Are they flush with the bottom? The tanks I have aren't stock I'm just tryin to figure out if and how I'm going to use them. Thanks Kreg BTW I'll be askin for some interior pics also.

[1968Droptop]

I don't have any pix Kreg, but mine mount to a couple of bulkheads that are glassed into the sponsons. My tanks are square not round. I can't rememeber what year your boat is ? But the older ones have round tanks, and I think they have a strap thats goes around them, securing to some wood glassed into the floor.

[tx-19]

usually they have a stringer washer that has a counter sunk hole in it so the bolt is flush.thats the way mine are.

[Outlaw]

kreg, show us some pics of what you have,
I have seen round tanks installed with a bracket
that mounts with a countersunk
screw from the bottom, just seal it like a jet intake
screw, it would be a good idea to install a backup
plate on the inside as well.

[LUVNLIFE]

I don't have any pix Kreg, but mine mount to a couple of bulkheads that are glassed into the sponsons. My tanks are square not round. I can't rememeber what year your boat is ? But the older ones have round tanks, and I think they have a strap thats goes around them, securing to some wood glassed into the floor.
This is how mine were mounted. I cut plywood and mounted the round bracket/holder to them, the plywood was full length of the tank. Then glass that plywood to the bottom of the boat. This means there are no through bolts to leak. Worked well.;)

[H20MOFO]

I'll put a pic up of what I have from work tomorow. My first thought was to glass the eight holes in and glass some plywood down also to mount to. The holes are right in my sponsons and It doesn't look like there is enougph glass there to flush mount anything, if that makes any sense. Also I'd be suprised If the tanks I have are bigger than 12 gal.

[wet77]

in the 21 daytona I had there were stainless washers and bolts, not the best idea as I found latter they leaked, so I glassed in plates of aluminum to the floor and tapped holes for the brackets to bolt to, then when Irwin capps did the bottom that winter he filled in the holes from the bottom;)

[Outlaw]

there is an article in the HB MAG about putting a round plug in a square hole(something like that)July 2006 issue.
I can scan it and send it to you.

[LUVNLIFE]

I'll put a pic up of what I have from work tomorow. My first thought was to glass the eight holes in and glass some plywood down also to mount to. The holes are right in my sponsons and It doesn't look like there is enougph glass there to flush mount anything, if that makes any sense. Also I'd be suprised If the tanks I have are bigger than 12 gal.
There was not in mine. They would start to pull through and leak.:eek: What you are thinking of doing is what I did. I also glassed the mounts in.;)

[H20MOFO]

Thanks for the help all. I'd kinda like to weld a bracket(on the top) so I can also mount the top of the tanks up by the filler neck for lack of a better way to describe it. I know welding a gas tank can be an explosion hazard, but couldn't i just fill the tank with water? I would still like to see bottom pics of a stock set up. I would like the extra security of being able to "bolt" the plywood thru those holes as well as glass.:idea:

[Unchained]

I'm just now working on the Russell stainless tanks in my Daytona.
It came with 23 gal tanks that were 10.5" x 60" they were way bigger than I needed. I cut out 22" and shortened them to 38" and about 14 gal.
That will still be more than I need and took out a bunch of excess weight and length. Storage area in this boat is at a premium already.
I ran a garden hose from the hot water heater to the tanks and flushed with hot water for about an hour each with the fuel fill on top. I figured any remaining gas and fumes would rise to the top which it did. With the tanks full of water I started cutting the tanks on top with a slitter disc and it worked fine. No probs.
My tank brackets were through bolted up from the bottom with aluminum washers and flathead bolts. The bolt holes didn't leak before so I'll use the same method.

[H20MOFO]

Thanks Unchained. I may be welding more than a bracket I was just rinsing a tank out and long story short the supply line out of the tank makes a drinking straw look large.I'll put up some pics tomorow. Outlaw what page of june 06 ***boat, I guess I'll look through it again.

[proples]

H20MOFO,
I have the same tanks Unchained has (Russell stainless,23 gal), and this is a pic of the mounting strap and mounting screws, no washers when I took them out, just the countersunk screws/bolts and a bunch of clear silicone. :notam:
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/propless/mydaytona.jpg

[H20MOFO]

Hey propless how's my clone boat doin? As far as tanks I don't see me mounting the tanks I have through the bottom how thick is your transom at the mounts guys I havn't measured yet but mine are 3/8 ish at best. isn't that a lot to ask of a 1/4" of glass or so.:confused:

[proples]

Hey propless how's my clone boat doin? As far as tanks I don't see me mounting the tanks I have through the bottom how thick is your transom at the mounts guys I havn't measured yet but mine are 3/8 ish at best. isn't that a lot to ask of a 1/4" of glass or so.:confused:
No progress on the conversion yet :( . My "build the Daytona" fund has been renamed to the "build a home for the Daytona" fund. The damm thing is 4ft longer than my garage !!! So I'm moveing out to the country (2.5 acres) and will be building a realy BIG garage/shop to fit all the boats :D , and other toys. :rolleyes:
How thick is the Transom ? Mine is about 1.5 in =/-, but I assume you ment to ask how thick is the bottom at the mounts. And I havent measured it but it is thin, about the thickness of the countersunk section of the bolts. :eek:

[H20MOFO]

Yeh propless I ment the bottom where the tanks mount. my friggin dbl transom is over 3" thick, drilling 2 4" holes for exaust tips was exausting.:D

[Unchained]

Where my tank brackets bolt through the bottom of the sponson the fiberglass is not over 1/4".
When I reinstalled them in the spring I put a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate about 6" x 8" under the mounts. These tanks full of fuel are real heavy and all that weight on those tank brackets really concentrates the load.
The transom on my boat is not even 1/4" thick.
All the cav plate actuating hardware is mounted on there and that is an area I need to reinforce too.
This boat seems to be a real light layup. There are no bulkheads in the sponsons from the dash to the transom. I'm going to add one on each side.

[H20MOFO]

http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/medium/DAYTONA_008.jpghttp://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/medium/DAYTONA_008.jpg The supply line is about smaller than this bic pen that aint gonna fly is it? i'll try to put one of the tank up,http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/thumbs/DAYTONA_006.jpg

[Outlaw]

only if you arer running a small block:D

[proples]

only if you arer running a small block:D
Or an Outboard :notam: I better check my tanks and see whats in there. One more thing on the list.

[HammerDown]

...The transom on my boat is not even 1/4" thick.
...This boat seems to be a real light layup. There are no bulkheads in the sponsons from the dash to the transom. I'm going to add one on each side.
My 1983 21 Daytona is the same way...the Transom is 3/16 glass, no wood. The only bulkheads (2) are under the deck, nothing in the sponsons.
I wonder why they built them like this...:confused:

[Outlaw]

Kreg, page 111 I sent it to your email, but your server rejected it.
I will resend, but with those square tanks I would bolt them to the bulkheads
like mine are.

[H20MOFO]

Thanks Outlaw. That sounds like a pretty good plan. BTW your the second person that told me I'm havin e-mail issues. I'm going to try to put up a pic of the "slugs" I cut out of my transom.http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/medium/DAYTONA_007.jpg

[Outlaw]

I saw those on your gallery wow. should be strong enough:)

[H20MOFO]

So I'm gettin ready to modify my tanks , is there any reason why I shouldn't have my supply lines come off the bottom of the tank (on the side) rather than suck it out from the top of the tank down?

[BLEWBAYOU1]

Thanks Outlaw. That sounds like a pretty good plan. BTW your the second person that told me I'm havin e-mail issues. I'm going to try to put up a pic of the "slugs" I cut out of my transom.http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/medium/DAYTONA_007.jpg
Wow,was that hull laid up for a clamp on?

[H20MOFO]

Yeh blewbayou1, acording to Tom(jbp) it was acually "born" an i/o then taken to full wacker, then tom gave it a "sex change":D I may be wrong but I think at some point someone has glassed a whole nother transom on the inside of the orig. I can't tell you what a joy drilling those holes was. i'd still like to hear some feed back on my supply line location, oh well ,time to drill.

[proples]

So I'm gettin ready to modify my tanks , is there any reason why I shouldn't have my supply lines come off the bottom of the tank (on the side) rather than suck it out from the top of the tank down?
Kreg,
PUT THE DRILL DOWN !!!!!!
I think its a safty thing !!! If the supply line is on the bottom of the tank and the line comes off or developes a leak, it can drain the tank into the bottom of the boat :eek: !!!! With the line on top the fuel pump has to pull the fuel out of the tank.

[jetboatperformance]

Kreg two things I can see here ,I think you can increase the fuel standpipe size faily easily by "sweating" some larger copper pipe into the pipe fittings that screw into in the tanktops Also those tanks have several welded brackets on them why not just take advantage of them and epoxy/glass down some plywood tabs for them to attach down to ? Tom
BTW that boat was originally rigged with round stnls Imcos thru bolted thru the bottom

[H20MOFO]

I wish I was smart enougph to do that quote thing you guys do ,anyway, Tom if I cut the copper and solder larger pipe onto it,(asuming I can drill the hole out and still have enougph metal left to screw the fitting on) I will still be "necked down" to the orig pipe size. maybe thats worth a try first. I'll post a pic later today or tommorow but the copper tube is super thick walled. maybe if i changed that out to a much thinner wall, and try what you'd suggesed both that may be good enougph, how small is to small? On mounting them, I think(I may be wrong) even if I glass a piece of wood dn. the will still need more support, I was thinkin I'd weld a couple of L brackets to the top of the tank and strap them to the boat, and just glass the bottom down. Propless my old tahiti stainless tanks drained from the bottom if I remember right. Don't get me wrong I'm way open for suggestions, I'm more concerned about the supply line size than anything. Thanks for the advice Kreg I guess I left my usb cord at work but the inside dia of the copper is exactly 13/64" (thats the largest drill bit that I can force in there.

[jetboatperformance]

Kreg the majority of weight on those tanks will be resting on the bottom so the brackets should hold fine , Bottom /gravity feed ,IMO is a major taboo .My moon tank bullet on my Schiada cracked a couple years back and filled the blige with race gas ,not a pretty sight (also not coast guard safe/approved I belive) Tom
re "The Quote" just click on the Quote icon and start typing ,its cake ..
re the supply you could run both tanks together (we normally don't ) but the two should be enough fuel supply for a NA motor

[H20MOFO]

Thanks Tom I had though of the two tank thing also. I don't know if you remember (or even looked) but each of those tanks has provisions for two lines each, they are currently set up so one of them is the breather, won't my fill cap act as the breather? Not that I'm wild about having 4 fuel lines but it sounds better than having to make sure both tanks have enougph juice for the trip. Any welders in the bunch I found some .120 wall 3/8" o.d. stainless tubing, could a decent welder weld something that thin?

[Unchained]

H2Omofo,
What size is the existing NPT fitting that's welded into the top of the tank that your fuel line screws into ?
From the pic I couldn't see how it went in the tank.
I've replaced a fuel fill line before by screwing a compression fitting into the welded in nipple from the top and sliding a copper line through it but there has to be a large enough fitting to work with.
Another option, if there is a fuel level sender, remove it, make an aluminum plate that covers the hole and mount a fuel fill line into the cover and angle it back to the rear of the tank.
I used the fuel level sender hole for my fuel return line.
I use a stick instead of a fuel level gauge. It always works and is always accurate.

[H20MOFO]

Thanks Unchained I hadn't really thought of using the sender hole. BTW as far as the npt size (npt confuses me b-cause 1/2" isn't 1/2") lets just say I had to drill the hole in the top to get 3/8" o.d. tube down it.

[Outlaw]

Kreg,
They make a bulkhead fitting with a nylon seal that you can drill a hole close to the sender and fish one side in
from the bottom, but what I'm doing is having a 3/4"
aluminum collar welded into my tank. Any reputable
welder can do this, and will have the equipment to
check for fumes before he starts welding, the tanks can be cleaned to eliminate any explosive fumes fairly easy.
if you decide to try the fishing method use some B Half sealer from any aircraft maintenance shop.

[1968Droptop]

......won't my fill cap act as the breather?
It should, my caps have breathers built into them. They've never puked any fuel, and I've never had a fuel starvation issue's.
Don't over think your tank problems Kreg, KISS. I have 1/2"NPT fittings, 2 per tank. I'm running a line out of each tank (-8 hose) into my filter/seperator (Perma-Cool unti with 1/2"NPT inlet/outlets), then a single -8 line to my mech fuel pump. The second line from each tank can be used for a return if needed, but I have mine capped off for now. You've seen pix of my engine, I think it'll work fine with yours :)

[H20MOFO]

Thanks outlaw. Yeh Chris right now I feel kinda like that last S(kiss) :o Chris what would you say the inside dia of your tubing is, like I stated a few posts ago my tube is
16/64(smaller than 1/4) the o.d. of the copper is like 5/16 the more I look at this it looks like the the copper tube isn't even the correct size for the elbow I can't even pull it out like it's been jb welded or something. I think I've decided to go the bulkhead route. Thanks for the help all. I guess I'd better save some of all of your guys advice for rest of the boat.:D

[speedymopars]

So I'm gettin ready to modify my tanks , is there any reason why I shouldn't have my supply lines come off the bottom of the tank (on the side) rather than suck it out from the top of the tank down?
Most likely, there is a hard line tube the goes to the bottom of the tank. Flip the tank, and now you are sucking air at anything but full. It's always safer to have it come out the top