Crank still not right

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

I am going to plant foot in the guys ass that turned my crank tomorrow burningm :mad: I took the crank back already once so this makes the third turn :mad: Its still too tight. After throwing it at him I will be collecting my money back. I was ready to build today and bam the plastiguage is still off. I was so mad that I cam home at 1:00 and went to bed(Hell I couldnt think straight). My first engine build and shit still isnt right. Oh and one of my main bolts brike too :mad: Shit just isnt going my way right now. Sorry guys I just had to vent cry
396

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

396_WAYS_TO_SPIT:
I am going to plant foot in the guys ass that turned my crank tomorrow burningm :mad: I took the crank back already once so this makes the third turn :mad: Its still too tight. After throwing it at him I will be collecting my money back. I was ready to build today and bam the plastiguage is still off. I was so mad that I cam home at 1:00 and went to bed(Hell I couldnt think straight). My first engine build and shit still isnt right. Oh and one of my main bolts broke too so I need to order new ones :mad: Shit just isnt going my way right now cry Sorry guys I just had to vent cry cry
396

[Rexone]

396, I realize that this statement may draw some fire but I don't consider Plastigage the ultimate in bearing measurement for a high performance engine assembly. I don't think it's consistantly nearly as accurate as inside and outside micrometers and / or dial bore gauges. I used to use it and could never get a consistant reading off of it twice in a row. Just my .02. That's not to say your cranks not the wrong size. They also make .001 and .002 under bearings etc for custom fitting.
On the main bolt make sure you're using proper thread lubricant (oil at a minimum) or you will get false torque readings and run the risk of breaking bolts. This goes for rod & head bolts too.
[ March 03, 2003, 01:36 AM: Message edited by: Rexone ]

[malcolm]

396,
Sorry to hear that. What did he do, just polish on it for a while and say it's good? Did you have your machinist check it after he was done? About your broken bolt. Maybe you just saved yourself a blown bottom end down the road. Maybe you need a set of ARP main bolts (properly lubed of course).
Rexone,
I agree with your statement. I still think plastiguage has its place though as a double check before assembly.

[ezstriper]

I'm going to agree with rexone, Don't rely much on plastic gauge, If you used a good machine
shop to turn or polish you crank, install the crank oil the bearings, leave out rear main seal
(for now)oil main bolts and torque(in steps)to correct torque and spin the crank by hand, see if it spins nice and free, if it does install rear main seal and continue with pistons/rods. I built a lot of drag race engines using this routine, the bottom line is thr machine shop should have the crank right and if the bearings are correct
you should be fine, Good Luck Rob...

[Infomaniac]

What tools do you have? This is quick reading.
Bearing Clearance. (http://www.havasubarney.com/cgi-bin/ikonboard.pl?s=3e63aeb609dcffff;act=ST;f=25;t=46)
Crank Installation. (http://www.havasubarney.com/cgi-bin/ikonboard.pl?s=3e63af3108f0ffff;act=ST;f=25;t=45)

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

I had my father drop the block,crank,rods,caps, and bearings off to the guy today. My father wouldnt let me go :D He know what i would have done to him :D I will keep you guys posted. I ordered a set of arp main bolts. I sure am glad they broke on the stand and not in my boat.
396

[77charger]

first rebuild? who can forget theirs.Any how the most important thing i see you are doing is taking your time to gauge the clearances.It took me 3 motors before i got one right and i can say that i rushed them.the first one i took time on i got it right.

[Infomaniac]

Just curious.
The rear main looking bearing is on the center main?