Serious Question here guys

[OverKill]

Question is about Loader and intake. My intake in not threw bolted just threaded to hold on the loader. Now I know threw bolting is better, however the way my motor sits I can't threw bolt it because of the oil pan being to close to the top of the intake. I am currently running 72mph and have never had a problem with anything coming apart on me. Now that I am putting a Nitrous Kit on her, I feel more HP could raise some concerns. More Horse Power, more water being jammed in the pump, means there could be a problem. Should I be worried, should I just leave it the way it is, or should I pull everything apart and reset the whole damn setup????? By the way it will only be a 100 shot of Nos, creeping up on the backside of 80mph. Thanks in advance.
OverKill

[Jetaholic]

Question is about Loader and intake. My intake in not threw bolted just threaded to hold on the loader. Now I know threw bolting is better, however the way my motor sits I can't threw bolt it because of the oil pan being to close to the top of the intake. I am currently running 72mph and have never had a problem with anything coming apart on me. Now that I am putting a Nitrous Kit on her, I feel more HP could raise some concerns. More Horse Power, more water being jammed in the pump, means there could be a problem. Should I be worried, should I just leave it the way it is, or should I pull everything apart and reset the whole damn setup????? By the way it will only be a 100 shot of Nos, creeping up on the backside of 80mph. Thanks in advance.
OverKill
You gotta figure in the increased amount of force applied to those bolts from a loader vs. a rock grate. Water just passes right through a rock grate so the stock way of bolting those on is fine. However, with a loader, the incoming water charge will be much greater which applies more force to those bolts. That on top of the fact that if you have your loader come loose you're seriously focked, justify the need for thru-bolting the loader.
When you thru bolt it, if you were to cut the remaining ends of the bolts off will the nuts clear the oil pan? What is the distance between the bottom of the pan and the top of the intake? Do you have any pics of it that you can post?

[W.O.T]

I had to pull my motor to get grade 8 bolts through the intake. My oil pan barely clears the bolt heads. I ran the stock screws one day at the lake and they wouldnt stay tight with red lock-tight. Do as much as you can to be safe.

[craig moss]

can you shim the engine up I dont know how long the drive shaft is a half inch should not kill you or mark the pan and heat and beat ben there done that :devil:

[Wazoo]

You only need a 1/2" to get a nut on it. Be safe! Figure it out!!!:idea: Oil pan or shims. What ever it takes. Think of the time and expense if it gets loose and gets into the impeller at WOT. Not worth the gamble!!!! There is a reason we put lock nuts on the loader. Post some pics and maybe we can give you a easy fix.:)

[Jetaholic]

You only need a 1/2" to get a nut...
:idea: :D

[cave]

Awe just take a hammer to the pan Overkill:D Call it custom nut space...
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.. Just Kidding Do it right get it tight. Should be a good summer in 08

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

Drill em through and put a few nuts on them.......

[Schi-502]

I've got a 502 sitting above my intake bolts. My oil pan had a hole in it! I bought a piece of sheet steel to place between my oil pan and intake . The vibration from drilling caused the plate to move...
Where's this oil coming from?
I drilled, added SS thread kits (helicoil) installed the 5/16" screws and jam nuts. They're slimmer than regular nuts. Hacked off the rest of the bolt, welded the hole in my oil pan and splashed the same day.
Good luck.

[BrendellaJet]

If you are running a rail kit I would shim it. If not, switch over to a rail kit and shim it.
With the increase in power though, I'd be just as concerned about your driveline. I think the 1310 driveline is good to about 500 hp, sounds like you're going to exceed that either now or later(cuz a little hp always leads to a little more) After that you want a 1350 series.
When I had my 1350 driveline made(ocdriveline), they made it as short as possible with what parts they were able to find in their catalogs. This necessitated moving my engine forward 2 inches(1350 series was longer than the original 1310 set up) where my intake bolts (through hull pieces) needed Jam nuts on the top side to give me enough clearance. I shimmed too just for peace of mind)Fortunately this didn't cause a problem on my interior as I was able to open up the seat base for the back seat and allow my direct drive alternator to slide through.

[Instigators]

Question is about Loader and intake. My intake in not threw bolted just threaded to hold on the loader. Now I know threw bolting is better, however the way my motor sits I can't threw bolt it because of the oil pan being to close to the top of the intake. I am currently running 72mph and have never had a problem with anything coming apart on me. Now that I am putting a Nitrous Kit on her, I feel more HP could raise some concerns. More Horse Power, more water being jammed in the pump, means there could be a problem. Should I be worried, should I just leave it the way it is, or should I pull everything apart and reset the whole damn setup????? By the way it will only be a 100 shot of Nos, creeping up on the backside of 80mph. Thanks in advance.
OverKill
No need to worry. :idea: It will never overcome the treadmill to get on plane. :jawdrop: If it does, it will only spin out in the reeds. :D
Just kiddin ya man. Do it right and thru bolt it. That way you will never be at risk .:D

[Some Kind Of Monster]

Put some JB weld on there and call it a day..
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In case you didn't figure it out, I'm just kiddin...

[widowmaker]

If you are running a rail kit I would shim it. If not, switch over to a rail kit and shim it.
With the increase in power though, I'd be just as concerned about your driveline. I think the 1310 driveline is good to about 500 hp, sounds like you're going to exceed that either now or later(cuz a little hp always leads to a little more) After that you want a 1350 series.
When I had my 1350 driveline made(ocdriveline), they made it as short as possible with what parts they were able to find in their catalogs. This necessitated moving my engine forward 2 inches(1350 series was longer than the original 1310 set up) where my intake bolts (through hull pieces) needed Jam nuts on the top side to give me enough clearance. I shimmed too just for peace of mind)Fortunately this didn't cause a problem on my interior as I was able to open up the seat base for the back seat and allow my direct drive alternator to slide through.
All good points, but not to start a debate about the driveline thing, but don't worry about the drive line, that 1310 can take lots of power. well over 500hp. Call around to a few places like some of the jet boat places in so cal. Remember most stuff breaks when you shock load it. Like dumping the clutch at 8000rpm in a race car.
Lots of guys running a 1310 at the drags with no problems. Spend your money elsewhere like a rail kit.

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

Didnt Phil Bergeron know the answer to this question:idea: I thought he knew EVERYTHING :idea::idea: :D :D :D

[Squirtin Thunder]

Question is about Loader and intake. My intake in not threw bolted just threaded to hold on the loader. Now I know threw bolting is better, however the way my motor sits I can't threw bolt it because of the oil pan being to close to the top of the intake. I am currently running 72mph and have never had a problem with anything coming apart on me. Now that I am putting a Nitrous Kit on her, I feel more HP could raise some concerns. More Horse Power, more water being jammed in the pump, means there could be a problem. Should I be worried, should I just leave it the way it is, or should I pull everything apart and reset the whole damn setup????? By the way it will only be a 100 shot of Nos, creeping up on the backside of 80mph. Thanks in advance.
OverKill
What I would do in this case would be grind down the 4 bumps on the intake just enough to let you put a washer and nut. Make sure you have at least 3/8ths" of clearance and as flat/square as possible.

[Cs19]

You should be able to get nuts on 2 of the 4 holes, if that is the case that will be fine.

[Jetaholic]

You should be able to get nuts on 2 of the 4 holes...
Why shouldn't he be able to get nuts on all 4 of the holes?

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

You should be able to get nuts on 2 of the 4 holes, if that is the case that will be fine.
Why not put all 4 on???? WHy half ass it?????

[Jetaholic]

Why not put all 4 on???? WHy half ass it?????
Exactly my point!!! Why no nut on all 4 holes?
Surprisingly a "spitter" caught onto that :D :D :D

[Heatseeker]

All good points, but not to start a debate about the driveline thing, but don't worry about the drive line, that 1310 can take lots of power. well over 500hp. Call around to a few places like some of the jet boat places in so cal. Remember most stuff breaks when you shock load it. Like dumping the clutch at 8000rpm in a race car.
Lots of guys running a 1310 at the drags with no problems. Spend your money elsewhere like a rail kit.
I think you are right about that. I haven't had a 1310 driveline failure yet. Been running in the neighborhood of 800 HP through mine for several seasons now.
The original post brings a thought to mind. A 100 HP shot of nitrous is not that drastic, especially in a jet. The loader issue issue needs to be dealt with, but the little bit of extra power will have little effect on the problem IMO. Regardless, through bolting/lock nutting the loader is a must.
When I added a 100 shot to my first jet it picked up 3-5 MPH. The difference was barely perceptible on acceleration, but was easily felt when I shut the NOS off while still at full throttle.

[Jetaholic]

All good points, but not to start a debate about the driveline thing, but don't worry about the drive line, that 1310 can take lots of power. well over 500hp. Call around to a few places like some of the jet boat places in so cal. Remember most stuff breaks when you shock load it. Like dumping the clutch at 8000rpm in a race car.
Lots of guys running a 1310 at the drags with no problems. Spend your money elsewhere like a rail kit.
I also find it funny that they would even rate a shaft for "horsepower". Shouldn't they be rated to handle a max torque instead?

[jetboatperformance]

Highly recommend thru bolts ,even if you have to "relieve" the tops of the casting bolt bosses to compensate. Plenty of material, also hdwr stores sell skinny little stnls blind nuts and very thin lock nuts we've used !Tom
like cs19 said 2 is better than none!
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r319/jetboatperformance/kreg/DSC07899.jpg

[bp]

adding 100hp isn't, all of a sudden, going to create a significant issue with your loader. if you can't routinely get a wrench on the 2 nuts under the pan, follow cs19's advice and drill/nut the back 2.
just because the screws have nuts on them, and you check it twice, doesn't mean the loader will never ever come loose. the loader should be routinely checked to make sure the screws are still tight. i've had mine drilled through as long as i've raced it - 60 races and well over 600 laps over the last 6 years - and it never came loose... until this last august. since i check it all the time, found it before anything was hurt, replaced the screws again, and away we go. the screws should be replaced periodically, especially if you find it loose, because the heads will stretch over time. if you have nuts on loader screws under the pan that you can't put a wrench on without pulling the engine, not an ideal situation.