What impeller should I run?

[lflsjet]

Looking for a little help on picking out a impeller.
I have a 19ft Eliminator Daytona
454 approx 12 to 1
(2) 750 holleys
5400 rpm currently at around 76mph or so
no idea what the thing has in it. Not much of a pump guy, i want to be, but I dont know nearly enough right now.
what are you guys running? any suggestions?
Thanks

[H20MOFO]

With 12-1 I'll assume it has a pretty healthy cam....I'd say try a "b" cut. What's in it now? sounds like maybe it already has a "b"

[RICHARD TILL]

i`m also voting B impeller. do`nt let anyone talk you into an inducer either. its a waste of money on a correctly built pump with a stuffer plate.

[bp]

do`nt let anyone talk you into an inducer either. its a waste of money on a correctly built pump with a stuffer plate.
really?? would you care to elaborate??
Looking for a little help on picking out a impeller. I have a 19ft Eliminator Daytona 454 approx 12 to 1 (2) 750 holleys
5400 rpm currently at around 76mph or so
no idea what the thing has in it. Not much of a pump guy, i want to be, but I dont know nearly enough right now.
what are you guys running? any suggestions?
Thanks .
solely considering your performance, most likely you have an a/b or a b impeller. why do you feel the need to pick out another one?
weight and hardware setup affect speed. historically, daytona's were laid up at a variety of weights - 350 or so for a light race layup all the way to 700 in some lake layups, and every weight in between. with a heavier layup (and a lot of gas, interior and passengers), it's much more difficult to get the boat "on top" of the water, reducing drag. excessive drag hurts et and top speed, and more power/rpm/gas is required to overcome it.
rather than pick out a different impeller, it would be more important to make sure the pump is in great condition, all clearances/tolerances are within spec. after that, work on setup.
i run a blueprinted legend b in a blueprinted berkeley with no stuffer, with a blueprinted cavitation reducer. i can go from a dead stop at idle to 6200 rpm with zero cavitation, in a hull that weighs over 700lbs bare.

[lflsjet]

I am getting the pump blueprinted soon. So I was going to run a B but wanted to see what kid of input everyone had.
I am curious about the inducer to?
I was going to put one on, but if there is no real reason to, I wont spend the money
Thanks guys

[RICHARD TILL]

heres my experience with the inducer. a friend of mine and myself both have earl smith texas tunnel hull boats and run both in the modified class. both are 496 chevys. he runs nitrous, i do not. blueprinted berkeley pumps with stainless b impellers. our boats run about the same. it came down to whoever cut the best light won the round. he told me that he was going to have an inducer installed and " i`ll beat your ass outta the hole". he did and it did`nt happen. i laugh and he cusses. he also lost 3 mph on top end. this was running on the same clock. when he pulls the pump again there will be an inducer for sale. probably cheap.

[bp]

heres my experience with the inducer. a friend of mine and myself both have earl smith texas tunnel hull boats and run both in the modified class. both are 496 chevys. he runs nitrous, i do not. blueprinted berkeley pumps with stainless b impellers. our boats run about the same. it came down to whoever cut the best light won the round. he told me that he was going to have an inducer installed and " i`ll beat your ass outta the hole". he did and it did`nt happen. i laugh and he cusses. he also lost 3 mph on top end. this was running on the same clock. when he pulls the pump again there will be an inducer for sale. probably cheap.
i've run ME for 7 years - what is your boat number and where do you run?
i've had the cavitation reducer in my pump for 10 years, and wouldn't run without it. i've run 107-109 with it, but as you can most likely guess, i don't set the boat up to run as fast as possible; at the last two races, trap speed was 99-100; - only as quick as necessary to run 0s. at the first race this year, i ran 5.15 to the 1/8 with a very conservative setup. and, i do have a n2 system, but haven't used it since november and don't plan on using it at all this year.
I am getting the pump blueprinted soon. So I was going to run a B but wanted to see what kid of input everyone had.
I am curious about the inducer to?
I was going to put one on, but if there is no real reason to, I wont spend the money
Thanks guys .
i've explained this before in here, but have a little time, so will try a shorter version.
when an engine is flatfooted off idle, from a dead stop, a significant amount of flow through the pump begins. without the boat being up to speed, restoration of the water to the suction piece is solely based on atmospheric pressure. during those first 2-3 seconds, suction pressure at eye of the vanes on the suction side of the impeller becomes very low, to some negative pressure value (how low the pressure goes is affected by a couple of variables - how much hp is being applied? what is the condition of the pump? what nozzle insert is installed? how heavy is the boat weight/drag effect on acceleration - a heavier boat won't achieve the same speed as a lighter boat; speed increases intake loading velocity, counteracting the low pressure).
pressure at the eye of the impeller can become so low that liquid changes to vapor, causing some degree of cavitation, which negatively affects thrust.
a "cavitation reducer" is a small, mini impeller that is mounted on the shaft, on the suction side of the impeller. the purpose is to increase pressure at the eye of the impeller, to prevent pressure from dropping so low that a change in phase can occur, thus preventing cavitation - consequently it's named cavitation reducer.
a cavitation reducer -might- help you, but then again it might not add what you could be looking for. mine was installed when i had a little over 400hp, and i could tell the difference in acceleration right away. in a heavier layup, with a good tight pump, it can be very helpful in preventing cavitation at the hit. but it's not a cure-all, and needs to be evaluated thoroughly with the rest of the hardware. i've seen guys change impellers, make 1 or 2 laps at the most, jerk it out saying they didn't gain anything. i've seen guys do the same thing with a cavitation reducer. 1 or 2 laps is not sufficient time to gather enough data to make an informed decision, one way or the other. i've seen enough to know they do what they're intended to do, and recently we installed one in my 23' hallett jet along with some other things..

[RICHARD TILL]

bp, i`ve been running the modified eliminator class in the st. louis and sometimes kenducky d.b.a.. the boat number is 496. heres a long way to go but a picture of the boat can be seen by going to sldba.org click schedule, star cards, 2007 season photos, sldba budweiser drag boat nationals. i`m on the first page. picture numbers 845-28a and 29a. last year for example i ran 1/8-5.341, finish e.t.was 9.993, mph is usually around 97-101 m.p.h. i do`nt gain but 3-4 m.p.h. from 1/2 track on. if a flatbottom or an outboard is beside or near me at half track, i`m usually beat or hopefully the other boat breaks out. 9.70 is the quickest my boat has ever ran. i started with a 7 degree wedge in it and i dropped it down to a 5 degree to stay in the 10 sec. bracket. the boat runs right on the numbers except when the temperature is in the middle to upper 90`s. i`ll be running at poplar bluff, mo. this weekend. the weather is supposed to be in the mid 70`s and it might break out just a wee bit at that temperature. i may have to back the timming down about 2 degrees.

[bp]

richard, you must know my friend greg carr. have you taken the opportunity to whip him yet?:) out the back door, i've run low 10.0's in bakersfield in 60 degree weather, at firebird in crap water when it's high 90's, in dexter oregon in the 70's, and in marble falls in august. i never change anything on the engine, except sometimes bleeds if the air get's ridiculous. it's all setup, and a LOT of laps over the years to know what effect changes have on et. perhaps you'll come to mf or the world finals?
texas tunnels are little bitty things that are so light, you can practically pick them up with one hand (a little facetious, but not too far from reality). a person may or may not see or feel improvement with a cav reducer in a boat that light.
the daytona being discussed is most likely a 550-650 bare hull lake layup, as most of them were. compound that with the fact that, compared to other hull designs, daytona's are the most difficult in getting them to launch as well as others. for example, power and weight being equal, a gullwing will leave the daytona. cs19's daytona is the best leaving daytona i've ever seen, but the amount of time and work he's put into that thing to get it to launch is staggering, and not what joe average boater will go through. so, from that perspective, i'd say that yes, a cav reducer would help this particular boat.
light layup race hulls allow you to et with less power than a heavier boat. but... wind and chop are not friendly to lightweight hulls. wind and chop is my friend, and i have no qualms running in anything. if i gotta drive 1500 miles to race, i'll be prepared...:devil:

[stoker2001]

richard, you must know my friend greg carr. have you taken the opportunity to whip him yet?:) out the back door, i've run low 10.0's in bakersfield in 60 degree weather, at firebird in crap water when it's high 90's, in dexter oregon in the 70's, and in marble falls in august. i never change anything on the engine, except sometimes bleeds if the air get's ridiculous. it's all setup, and a LOT of laps over the years to know what effect changes have on et. perhaps you'll come to mf or the world finals?
texas tunnels are little bitty things that are so light, you can practically pick them up with one hand (a little facetious, but not too far from reality). a person may or may not see or feel improvement with a cav reducer in a boat that light.
the daytona being discussed is most likely a 550-650 bare hull lake layup, as most of them were. compound that with the fact that, compared to other hull designs, daytona's are the most difficult in getting them to launch as well as others. for example, power and weight being equal, a gullwing will leave the daytona. cs19's daytona is the best leaving daytona i've ever seen, but the amount of time and work he's put into that thing to get it to launch is staggering, and not what joe average boater will go through. so, from that perspective, i'd say that yes, a cav reducer would help this particular boat.
light layup race hulls allow you to et with less power than a heavier boat. but... wind and chop are not friendly to lightweight hulls. wind and chop is my friend, and i have no qualms running in anything. if i gotta drive 1500 miles to race, i'll be prepared...:devil:
Ya well,redemption time in about eight days.......:o

[bp]

Ya well,redemption time in about eight days.......:o
HA! redemption for what? i'm thinkin it's just the start of some serious payback. i think all you proppers should spend some more quality time together discussing how you'll be seeing each other in the final... no need to concern yourself with this old guy/jetboat... :devil:

[stoker2001]

HA! redemption for what? i'm thinkin it's just the start of some serious payback. i think all you proppers should spend some more quality time together discussing how you'll be seeing each other in the final... no need to concern yourself with this old guy/jetboat... :devil:
Vdrive proppers and whacker proppers are worlds apart....LOL
cant remember the last time that ole tank got around you:confused:
Still couldnt believe he could only muster a 10.09 on that last final:sleeping:
Just got done installing my driveshaft,not sure if i trust it
will bring the backup just in case
RB hit a buck five yesterday:devil:

[Sleeper CP]

Looking for a little help on picking out a impeller.
I have a 19ft Eliminator Daytona
454 approx 12 to 1
(2) 750 holleys
5400 rpm currently at around 76mph or so
Do you know more about the engine than the pump. What does it have for a cam and where ( at what rpm) does it make power ?
Once you find that out, have your pump guy set it up so that the engine pulls to about 250 rpms under your peak HP rpm. That is a good baseline if you are looking for top speed.
A 12:1 454 with two 750's pulling only 5400 something doesn't sound correct :idea: Find out what's in that engine first.
This might help..... but then again maybe not:
http://www.***boat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=156154
In any case good luck.
BTW: Do what ever BP say's ..... he knows his stuff.
Sleeper CP
Big Inch Ford Lover :D

[bp]

Vdrive proppers and whacker proppers are worlds apart....LOL: hey, you'all got props, so it's all the same to me :D
cant remember the last time that ole tank got around you:confused:: i know whent it was, and can remember it quite clearly.
Still couldnt believe he could only muster a 10.09 on that last final:sleeping: : i can believe it, and i could tell ya my theory as to why, but then i'd have to kill ya, and since we're buds, i can't do that, so you'll just hafta figure it out on yer own:D
Just got done installing my driveshaft,not sure if i trust it
will bring the backup just in case
RB hit a buck five yesterday:devil:
i'm hopin for a bucktwenty, would work just fine for meeeee:devil: but i think it's gonna cool a little bit.