Getting her ready for the season...

[Clydedog]

.....I have a 1977 Phantom, powered by a 460 Ford. The motors got a lot of the usual river runner goodies, upswept bassetts, polished high rise, dual Holleys and a Mallory dual point. Even though the motor looks fairly mean, it's got low compression and a mild cam in her. It's more of a poser motor than a racer. She runs on regular gas and is pretty decent on fuel useage. It's a family ski boat that just happens to turn a lot of heads. It was bought off E-bay last spring for around $3,500.00.....
.....We took her out a dozen times or so last year with out any real maintenance, just fill her up with gas and check the oil level. For the most part, she was a flashy, reliable ride. We did have some mechanical problems at the end of the season last year, stalling, not running as strong as I felt she could and had a hard time starting. The old Phantom is in need of a good tune up. I'm planning on a fresh battery, new plugs and points. My major problem is points. It's got a Mallory Dual Point and I'm clueless on setting the point gap, dwell setting and timing. I've done tuneups on a Mustang I had back in the day, with a single point distibutor, but that was way, way long ago. I took a look through the web, looking for info on this subject, all with out luck. Are there any old schooler's out here that can hook me up with info? Advice, tutoring or some good links would really come in handy. Thanks, in advance....

[sstjet]

Get yourself an electronic ignition and save yourself a ton of headaches. Petronix has a retrofit kit for you distibutor and we used it on a jetboat we used to have and it made the boat start better and run better and no maintenance. It is also vey affordable, I believe under $200.

[HammerDown]

..... My major problem is points. It's got a Mallory Dual Point and I'm clueless on setting the point gap, dwell setting and timing. I've done tuneups on a Mustang I had back in the day, with a single point distibutor, but that was way, way long ago. I took a look through the web, looking for info on this subject, all with out luck. Are there any old schooler's out here that can hook me up with info? Advice, tutoring or some good links would really come in handy. Thanks, in advance....
I've been running the same dual point for years and years...NEVER let me down and works GREAT!
But yes there are a few simple specific steps to properly set them up...and you'll need a dwell meter.
*First off...you let me know if you're going to use the distributor, and I'll spend the time typing out the info.

[HammerDown]

Get yourself an electronic ignition and save yourself a ton of headaches. Petronix has a retrofit kit for you distibutor and we used it on a jetboat we used to have and it made the boat start better and run better and no maintenance. It is also vey affordable, I believe under $200.
Actually I don't think Pertronix has a kit for a Mallory YL dual point. That is (if) he has a YL Marine distributor.

[bp]

I've been running the same dual point for years and years...NEVER let me down and works GREAT!
But yes there are a few simple specific steps to properly set them up...and you'll need a dwell meter.
*First off...you let me know if you're going to use the distributor, and I'll spend the time typing out the info.
my cruiser has a mallory dual point - bought new cap/condenser/points for it last fall, but it's still running fine so haven't changed anything yet. if you have insights to properly set them, i'd be interested in hearing it.
just taking the cap off and looking at things last fall, it seems as though it is set up so that one contact opens at a different point than the other contact - interesting...

[HammerDown]

The "dual point" makes for a longer-hotter spark. Some thought it fired the plug twice, not so.
First you need to know how much advance is in the distributor. Remove the dual point plate to access the advance locking arms and springs. If you don't have the Mallory key/tool to set the advance stop arms no problem as you can use a caliper or make a shim.
18 degrees =0.410
20 degrees =0.425
22 degrees =0.444
24 degrees =0.464
26 degrees =0.480
28 degrees =0.502
I put 24 degrees in with 12 initial gives me 36 total degrees all in & 3000 RPM with the advance springs I picked.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f327/Hamerdown/Scan10010.jpg
Once the desired advance is put into the distributor dig out your old Dwell meter for the 70's next to the Chubby Checker 45's :D ...and follow the below instructions.:)
Note...looking down at the distributor notice the stud where the condenser hook up is. If at 6:00 the "secondary" points are to the left and the "primary" points are to the right.
ALSO...make sure the two wires from the points don't make contact to the mounting plate as it will ground out. When cranking engine to set dwell...ground coil wire to engine and to ease engine spin I pull the spark plugs.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f327/Hamerdown/MallorySetUp.jpg
Once set lube the point cam w/silicone/dielectric grease...my dwell hasen't moved in years!
A tip...a high dwell reading means a narrow point gap...a low dwell reading means a wide point gap. I'll set my dwell a degree or two on the low side to allow for the point friction arm to take a set.
Also dwell ONLY changes when point gap changes, not when you rotate the distributor...that only changes timing.
seriously...my distributor when dial in stays set for years...just remember to put a dab of silicone grease on the point cam once and a while.

[Clydedog]

[QUOTE=*First off...you let me know if you're going to use the distributor, and I'll spend the time typing out the info.[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the info, so far. Yes, I do plan on using the dual point. It looks brand new and I have a feeling the guy who put it in the motor just threw it in there with out optimizing the set up. With this distributor any and all assistance is really appreciated. If I ask a bunch of questions, please be patient, my points/dwell/timing light experiance is in the far distant past....

[bp]

thanks a bunch mike. these instructions are great, looks nice and simple, if i can find my old dwell meter:D i have no intention of replacing this distributor, as it's just a lake deal and it works.
kind of a threadjack, but that's ok. for the poster, if it were me, i'd go completely through both those holleys, as it's more likely a carburator issue than something amiss with this distributor.

[Clydedog]

BP....I'm not so worried about a thread jacking. The carbs on the boat are Holley 600's with vacuum secondary's. They, the distributor and all the other externals on this motor were added brand new when the motor was rebuilt two years ago. The boat was stored indoors since that time, so their condition is brand new. Once I've got the points set, the timing right and a decent amount of advance in the distributor, I'll be looking at the carbs, making sure the jetting, float levels and accellerator pump springs and such are dialed. Like I said earlier, it seems all these new parts were bolted to the motor right out of the box and never fine tuned. Once the ignition/timing issues are straight, I'll be looking at the carbs......

[HammerDown]

Thanks for the info, so far. Yes, I do plan on using the dual point. It looks brand new and I have a feeling the guy who put it in the motor just threw it in there with out optimizing the set up. With this distributor any and all assistance is really appreciated. If I ask a bunch of questions, please be patient, my points/dwell/timing light experiance is in the far distant past....
Looks new...run it!
Questions...ask away.
The only thing I would do is take the point plate out and check how much advance is in the unit and also make sure the advance weights are moving freely and the advance springs are attached.
The point plate will come out via two small screws...the points stay attached to the plate. Under the point plate you'll see the cam hold down bolt...kinda looks like the lock nut and Y bracket for the distributor...DON'T undo the lock nut as it's timed to the plate...we don't want it to turn!

[Clydedog]

....Gotta 'nuther question or two. Once I get the points in, gapped and the dwell set, what would you recommend for timimg at idle? I've heard that on a typical jet boat the total ignition advance, around 30 degrees, all in at around 3,000-3,500 RPM works well. Does this sound about right for my set up as described in the intial post?.....
....One of the earlier replies recommended I just go with a Petronix Electronic Ignition conversion for the Mallory distributor. I'm wondering if that might be a good way to go. The kits run under a hundred bucks. I currently don't own a dwell meter or know anyone who does. By the time I buy a dwell meter (even an el cheapo Harbor Freight one), pick up a quality set of replacement points, I figure I'm most of the way toward affording the conversion. I figure I could always keep the old points in a couple layers of zip lock bags on the boat as a back up (not that electronic ignitions have are known to fail very often) and slap them back in in an emergency. What do you think?....

[HammerDown]

....Gotta 'nuther question or two. Once I get the points in, gapped and the dwell set, what would you recommend for timimg at idle? I've heard that on a typical jet boat the total ignition advance, around 30 degrees, all in at around 3,000-3,500 RPM works well. Does this sound about right for my set up as described in the intial post?.....
....One of the earlier replies recommended I just go with a Petronix Electronic Ignition conversion for the Mallory distributor. I'm wondering if that might be a good way to go. The kits run under a hundred bucks. I currently don't own a dwell meter or know anyone who does. By the time I buy a dwell meter (even an el cheapo Harbor Freight one), pick up a quality set of replacement points, I figure I'm most of the way toward affording the conversion. I figure I could always keep the old points in a couple layers of zip lock bags on the boat as a back up (not that electronic ignitions have are known to fail very often) and slap them back in in an emergency. What do you think?....
Pertronix didn't offer a conversion for (my) Mallory YL Dual point. But even if they did I would buy and carry a spare module. Electronic ignitions can fail and in a marine environment take more abuse then in a car running down the road at a lazy 1800/2400 rpm.
Almost any NA BBC will take 35 degrees total easy but I'm not to hip on where BBF's like to be...better ask a Ford guy for that one.
*In 8-9 years I've never had a problem with my dual point and the engine starts/runs like a raped ape...but I carry a spare set with me just in case.
I carry a spare everything :D

[bp]

BP....I'm not so worried about a thread jacking. The carbs on the boat are Holley 600's with vacuum secondary's. They, the distributor and all the other externals on this motor were added brand new when the motor was rebuilt two years ago. The boat was stored indoors since that time, so their condition is brand new. Once I've got the points set, the timing right and a decent amount of advance in the distributor, I'll be looking at the carbs, making sure the jetting, float levels and accellerator pump springs and such are dialed. Like I said earlier, it seems all these new parts were bolted to the motor right out of the box and never fine tuned. Once the ignition/timing issues are straight, I'll be looking at the carbs......
clyde, my boat is stored in doors at all times, unless it's going/coming or at a track. i go through them -at least- once a year, and sometimes twice, because if i don't, i know they won't perform as well as i need them to, and i am very dependent on them to work perfectly every time. the worst my carbs ever performed were when they were new, and it took over a year to straighten them out. it's only 2cents worth, but all i'm suggesting is that you check them out.

[Hallett19]

Get yourself an electronic ignition and save yourself a ton of headaches. Petronix has a retrofit kit for you distibutor and we used it on a jetboat we used to have and it made the boat start better and run better and no maintenance. It is also vey affordable, I believe under $200.
Better yet, while you are at it, just put in an MSD distributor. Its better to put all new parts on these things. I did the petronix retrofit and started having problems shortly after. Parts go bad, new parts are your friend :)