Overhaul kit

[AZLAW]

Thinking about ordering the master overhaul kit from Cp performance. I have a berkley JG is this something I can do myself, do I have to pull my motor or can I work on the pump from the stern? Any help would be great!

[VAMI]

Slide the pump out the back,leave the engine alone.

[Jordy]

Actually, how you rebuild the pump depends on several different variables... First off, if you're just looking at taking care of the wear ring and impeller and stuff inside the pump, then you should be able to pull off the transom adapter and get to the bolts that hold the bowl to the suction piece. If that's the case, you wouldn't have to worry about the engine side of it.
If you're going to get really carried away and pull the pump out, whether or not you're going to have to pull the engine kind of depends on what kind of mounting system you have. If you've got a 4 point mount, that is, the engine is bolted to the stringers front and rear, then you can pull the pump out with no worries. Depending on how it was installed, it might be a bit of a battle getting all the bolts out of the suction piece and intake and then getting those apart.
If you've got a 3 point mount, where it mounts to the stringers on the front of the engine, and then clamps around the suction piece of the jet in the rear, you're going to have to pull the engine if you want to get the pump all the way out.

[bp]

if you have a 3 point mount, you don't have to pull the engine. you only have to remove the bellhousing clamp, and lift the engine an inch or so and the pump will slide out - place a block under the bellhousing if you want to lower the engine back down while the pump is worked. pulling the engine can give you easier access, but it's not absolutely necessary and some extra work.
with a 3 point mount, the driveshaft will remain attached to the engine. if you're removing the impeller, you'll need that front yoke to hold to remove the impeller nut. with a 4 point, you can remove the driveshaft so you'll have something to hold the shaft still while you remove the impeller nut. don't try holding the splined end of the shaft with any tool, just the yoke, otherwise you'll screw the splines up and have to replace the shaft.
either way, if you're intent on doing this yourself, i'd remove the bowl and impeller nut before ever disconnecting and removing the suction housing. and the suction housing must be removed if you want to replace the thrust bearing or shaft packing. having the engine connected gives you -something- to hold the shaft still so you can get the impeller nut off. on the other hand, a pro shop would have all the tools and rigging necessary to completely disassemble the pump once it's out of the boat.

[AZLAW]

Thanks for all the help. I have a bad rattle/clunking noise right under the nipple for the grease gun. Is that the thrust bearing? I would like to do everything that I can without removing the whole pump from the boat! Thanks
R.I.P. Officer Hite TPD End of Watch 06-02-08

[Pops@Aggressor]

Thanks for all the help. I have a bad rattle/clunking noise right under the nipple for the grease gun. Is that the thrust bearing? I would like to do everything that I can without removing the whole pump from the boat! Thanks
R.I.P. Officer Hite TPD End of Watch 06-02-08Never Re-Build without re-placing the Thrust Bearing I have heard way to much cussing from guy's who did not. The noise can be Thrust Bearing or Caps on you universal Drive Line unit. if Drive Shaft you can rebuild by getting a Kit from a Dana Spicer Drive Line Store.

[bp]

Thanks for all the help. I have a bad rattle/clunking noise right under the nipple for the grease gun. Is that the thrust bearing? I would like to do everything that I can without removing the whole pump from the boat! Thanks
R.I.P. Officer Hite TPD End of Watch 06-02-08
that is where the thrust bearing is located. could be a bad thrust bearing, which is not unusual, or could be a noise initiated from something else, such as one of the drive shaft couplers, or something internal to the pump. btw, hope you're not hearing this noise while running the engine on the trailer with no load??? if so, the noise is most likely eminating from something else. you really shouldn't run the engine on the trailer connected to a dry pump...
removing the pump is really no big deal, and doesn't take very long. you cannot remove the shaft, replace the bearing or repack the pump without removing the pump.

[AZLAW]

I misunderstood, to replace everything do I have to remove the whole unit from the boat? I.E. remove the loader, grate and separate it from the hull of the boat. or does everything slide out of the rear after removing the bowl and stuff.

[bp]

first, get yourself a seloc jet drive repair manual..
http://www.rexmar.com/page390.html
next, if you get the kit from cp, get the jet drive tools you'll need - the impeller nut is 1 13/16, and the impeller puller they have works very well. there are other drifts they have in their tool kit that may come in handy.
on a jg, the intake is poxyputtied to the keel. the intake has a flange about 1 1/2" above the floor, with 14 bolts holding the pump suction piece. all you really need to do to remove the pump is disconnect all your steering and shifting cables, remove the transom adapter (the box like piece that's screwed to the transom, that surrounds the bowl), then remove the 14 bolts and pull it out. the thing is a little heavy, so if you remove the nozzle housing from the bowl before removing the pump, it's a little easier to handle.
if the pump hasn't been apart for a long time, the impeller nut -could- be very difficult to remove. which is why you need to have the driveshaft yoke available so you have something to hold on to while trying to loosen the nut. again, don't screw up the splines on the end of the shaft.

[AZLAW]

That is more clear, thanks for all the help. I found a down loadable how-to-do video on rebuilding the pump. Thanks for all the help bp.

[bp]

the video is good, but you also need to know what all the tolerances/clearances are. it's vital to have all the clearances within spec. to get the pump operating efficiently, and don't trust that "new" parts are within spec; mic everything before and after installation.
one final thing - if you do remove the shaft, once the bearing has been removed have the shaft eccentricity checked - make sure it is straight. if it's not straight, all those close tolerances you'll try to have can be eliminated very quickly. good luck with it...